DashRiprock

well i finally got the new fuel and new driveline in last week. but while i was trying to get the motor shaft properly aligned with the stuffing tube i snapped one of the bolts that holds the motor mount in place. the ones that have the rubber vibration isolators. so i finally found them at Granger and have some ordered. it shouldn't take long to get them in and they were cheap. only $7 for 4 i figured id better stock up the way my luck has been lately. hopefully i can get this thing running and in the water soon. cross your fingers!

mister twister

My Feedback: (1)

Good luck with that. I am going to bring mine camping with me this weekend and run it for the first time this year. I ran it for a few minutes on the stand with my test jug of water but have not got it out yet this year. I added a new drive shaft from Toyota Truckin a Collet type coupler and trim tabs with the water pickup in them from Kintec Racing. We will see how it all works.... I have an open quart container of 50% Grim Racer Fuel to use then I am going to run 30% I have two quarts of that. I tried the 50% didn't see much difference so I went back to 30% it runs good on it.

mister twister

My Feedback: (1)

The SV27 ran great..... The only problem I had was that the set screw in the drive dog fell out. Some how it wedged on the shaft and I didn't even know it until I did my post run check. I loctited the screw and every thing. Good thing I had an old Kyosho hardware kit from a old stadium truck I used to run in my gear and it had set screws that size in it. that kit has helped out a lot throughout the years.

I found out that it is a bad thing to plug my glow plug starter into the wrong banana plugs on my flight box!!! Blows the glo plugs instantly........ Fried two plugs before I realized I was plugged into the wrong side. I guess you have to live and learn.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Hooked it into the 12-volt plugs didn't you! Yup, done it and was wondering why I was frying plugs like crazy.

mister twister

My Feedback: (1)

Yes that is what I did. Then I tried a second one then the light turned on. You big dummy your in the wrong connectors!!!!They fry instantly don't they? Hopefully I never do that again......

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, the plugs aren't cheap and when you fry a couple in a row you think that first that you got a bad batch of plugs before slapping yourself in the head! [:@]

mister twister

My Feedback: (1)

Now I need to order a couple the next time I get supplies......

Tummi

Uff, I just finished reading 60 pages of this thread

First, let me contribute a little sth for european SV27 users - you'll need 6, 7, 10, 12mm wrenches and also adjustable small wrench for some non-metric screws (not many of them, but still).

Shipping SV27 nitro from TH to most european countries is 61$. I found out it's cheaper to send boat in 1 package and spare parts in another one (TH's combined shipping pricing policy). It gets even cheaper if your country doesn't put VAT on packages worth less than 100$ (Poland applies ). If you need coupon for international orders - PM/e-mail me

Now for the fun part - I'm breaking my SV, so far so good, broke 2 propellers in 2 days (leaves and sticks in the water). Awaiting GrimRacer's metal props to arrive. I have to admit that R/C boats are more fun that I imagined

Now few questions

1. That coupler thingie - why the standard plastic one is so bad and which one should I order?

2. What do you guys use to secure the inside of the boat? I've read about some kind of 30-minute epoxy, but localy I only have epoxy glue in a solid state, not as a liquid. Will a transparent spray paint be enough or nitro will 'eat' it?
3. How solid should be the water output from the boat? I don't have a solid 1 stream, it's clearly mixed with air - is that normal? Shall I drill bigger hole in water pickup?
4. It looks like the tube where flex cable enters from inside the boat is misalligned (to right edge). Shall I try to straighten it (I'm afraid about structure of the bottom of the boat, or move the engine a little bit (not sure if rubber absorbers will allow it)?
5. Did anyone actualy install autobailer on his SV27? I'm thinking about it, but making a hole in my new boat is a big mental challenge

Today I received plastic props from TH - broken due to poor packaging :/ I'm still grounded and was hoping to hit a lake on the weekend

T.

x33racer

Purchased a SV-27 nitro little over a year ago and basically went through 2 engines and have wore the thing out.
Was looking to get another to replace it, but tower doesn't seem to carry them anymore. []
Just wondering if they were being discontinued? Or is something else coming to replace it?

Thanks

Tummi

x33racer, it's disco

TH Scratch & Dent:

Available to Club Members Only:
AquaCraft SuperVee 27 Nitro RTR Orange 74 Channel 74 (New / No Damage)
discontinued item sm

252$-60$ with a coupon - bargain! I'd buy it if shipping to Europe and VAT didn't add over 50% to the price :/

T.

bryston

My Feedback: (2)

Why on earth they discontinue such a good product, i was looking to buy a second one. its one of those product that has a lot of fans, lots of spare parts, good engine choice, works great out of the box, good price, but a lot of people in the water, multiple color choices, easy to set up, fits in your car, flip it as much as you want in the water and still runs..............

mister twister

My Feedback: (1)

Is it Tower Hobbies discontinuing it or is it Aquacraft? I still see it on aquacrafts website.

baja pete

I dont see the -$60 coupon, can you direct me to it or send me the code?

Pete

Tummi

Sure Pete, please check PM

T.

Fuelburn

Just wonder if anybody could tell me how they installed the 3 piece collet from Kintec? I see some here have recommended it, but when I put it on it doesn't tuck under the flywheel like the stock coupler did. It catches about three or four threads and jams against the edge of it. Just wondered if this was normal? Fits nice wo the flywheel but I assume that's a bad idea. Looks like the stuffing tube will have to be cut down as well due to the length of the collet? Just wanna make sure I am on the right track here bf I start cutting things. Like most on here slowly replacing the junk stock parts with the good stuff. Got my hughey cable all ready to go as well.....can't wait! Had the boat for 3 mo now love it when I can get it going.....which is a rare occasion! Thanks for your help love the posts here.

Fuelburn

Just wonder if anybody could tell me how they installed the 3 piece collet from Kintec? I see some here have recommended it, but when I put it on it doesn't tuck under the flywheel like the stock coupler did. It catches about three or four threads and jams against the edge of it. Just wondered if this was normal? Fits nice wo the flywheel but I assume that's a bad idea. Looks like the stuffing tube will have to be cut down as well due to the length of the collet? Just wanna make sure I am on the right track here bf I start cutting things. Like most on here slowly replacing the junk stock parts with the good stuff. Got my hughey cable all ready to go as well.....can't wait! Had the boat for 3 mo now love it when I can get it going.....which is a rare occasion! Thanks for your help love the posts here.

mister twister

My Feedback: (1)

I took mine into work and had the guys in the machine shop turn it down in the lathe so it would fit inside the flywheel like the stock coupler. I also had to shorten the brass stuffing tube it was longer than the stock coupler also. The good news is it was worth it. The drive shaft is real easy to remove now. The coupler releases from the shaft great and grips tight without having to really tighten it down hard. Hope this helps probably not what you wanted to hear good luck with your mod.

Starrett_Eye

I modded my flywheels on a lathe, but If you don't have access to one you could possibly grind the kintec coupler so it will fit inside the flywheel where the stock one does, or you could grind (or file) the lip off the flywheel where the stock coupler goes inside, get a 3/16 bolt and nut, bolt to flywheel, leave a little sticking out so you can chuck that little bit of bolt in a drill, spin it and remove the metal however u can, It helps having a lathe in the garage, but sometimes you have to make do with what you got, good luck, I'd like to know how it turns out

Fuelburn

Excellent thanks for the quick response and input. I'm gone for a couple wks so gives me something to think about. Yeah the coupler seems really nice. Even finger tight you can't pull it out. I would lean towards shaving down the nut but wonder if more bad things might happen if it's not balanced. Maybe it will fit on my balancer we'll see. I'll see if I can find somebody with a lathe. I think I have a family member w one. A twelve pack may be in his future!

Tummi

Guys, any hints why would 2 driveshafts snap 1 by 1? The second one didn't even touch the water - broken on shore

Do you have any home methods to fix them?

T.

toyotatruckin

either not enough gap between the drive-dog and strut (I suggest 3/16 gap) possible engine or stuffing tube misalignment or like mine was loose and flopping right from the box, if its the solder joint thats coming undone on the cheaply made stock shafts. One more possible Issue on the SV is they come with a really long stub on the cable, if its rubbing inside the stuffing tube that could also be the problem..

Tummi

Thanks toyotatruckin. I covered all the basics, it looks like I was overtightening the prop nut and the weakest point (solder) gave up. I'll have to be more carefull from now on.

I soldered the shafts, will test them on water this week (if weather allows ).  

Did someone successfuly use any glue to fix the shafts?

T.

toyotatruckin

Use solder, glue/locktite etc is a poor way to make a shaft. dry time and alignment are a couple issues with locktite, once its set your not going to be able to do any adjustment, solder you can adjust all you want with a little heat

Tummi

Gotta brag - I just bought 2nd SV27 nitro from TH... for 120$ Scratch&dent section Acc. to the descr. it only has damaged propeller Got another green one, was seconds late for white one

Shipping to europe is 61$

Hint: there's one more, "slightly used, no damage" for 166$ (without coupon 196$)

toyotatruckin, should I be worried about alignment? It looks like my shaft hardly goes into the metal tubing, no place for misalignment (?) I have no experience with boats, honest question

T.

toyotatruckin

The alignment I am referring to is the flexshaft to stubshaft joint (where it solders together) to check if you have it straight you can roll the shaft across a flat table or piece of glass, it should roll fairly true, you will know when rolling it if its out of alignment. even a shaft soldered crooked (miss aligned) will go into a boat with no problem, the issue is a crooked shaft will vibrate bad resulting in less performance and prematurely worn parts (especially the bushing) etc. hope I explained that ok, just got up and still not 100% awake lol