Shockwaver

What do you guys think about running the driveshaft in the stuffing tube without the teflon liner? Thanks in advance for your info - Case in point miss vegas gen 2 boat had .150 shaft with the liner removed the 3/16 shaft .187 fits. Will this last?

nothinbetr2do

i think your flex drive will mess up the inside of the stuffing tube. but i'm on my first boat, so i'm not to sure

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

Very few of my boats have teflon lined stuffing tubes. Works fine. About the only downside is that you need to grease the shaft more often. Since I do this at the end of the day anyway, it's no big deal.

Edit: I don't know if a 3/16" shaft would fit into the tube of the gen 2 vegas or not. Haven't tried.

Sean Bowf

Neither of my riggers had a liner...and I know of folks that pull the liners out of their MVs. As to whether the 3/16ths will work or not...I have no idea.

Sean

TheRealDeal

I'm thinking she might be a little loose,but some guys like it that way,

On a serious note though,if it is to loose,you can cut the stuffing box off where it exits the hull
and solder in the next smaller size with out haveing to glass in a new tube





Joe

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Problem #2, there is no flex cable collets (OK, one but it's junk) that will go from a 5mm threaded shaft to a 3/16" cable.

Shockwaver

Ron - Which collet are you refering to? Piper - the 3/16 shaft .187 fits perfect in the 2nd Gen. Vegas with the teflon tube removed - I just wasn't sure about running without it, will definately run plenty of grease, Working on making collet - Does Octura make one?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Octura doesn't make one for the 5mm to .187" cable.
The one that I didn't name is the one made for the Mean Machine 18 from Aeromarine. It uses 2 grub screws to hold the cable in place.

piper_chuck

My Feedback: (12)

Out of curiosity, what engine do you plan to run? There is such a thing as going with too large a shaft. The Octura collets with 5mm threads are for shaft sizes .098, .130, and .150.

Shockwaver

Ron and Piper Thank you for your replies Ron I was looking at that collet I get most of my stuff from aeromarine, and know what you mean, I would hate to file a flat spot on a crankshaft to keep the collet from spining. - Piper I running the stock OS Aqua 18 right now but I was planing on getting either the OS CVR 18 which is still 5mm so i can run rtr class, but also want to upgrade to a 21 probably cmb which i know is a different thread size but at least i know aeromarine carries that one also running the 3/16 shaft sure makes it easier to play with different props. Thanks again guys, learned alot from you along the way. Noel

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

It threads onto the crank but the weak spot is the 2 grubs screws as they could tear up a cable in no time.

Sean Bowf

My personal opinion is that the 150 cable that comes with the MV gen2 boat is fine for the CVRM. It is what I ran most of last season, and have yet to break a cable.

As to running the 150 in the stock stuffing tube with no liner, I know someone that is doing it, and don't know of any negatives about it...but have not personally tried it to know.

Sean

beaverboy

I'm running the stock Mean Machine collet on an OS 18CVR-M connected to a Prather 3/16" flex shaft running in a 1/4" OD brass stuffing tube with no problem so far in my MM hull. I check the tightness of the allen screws on the collet when I grease the flex shaft after each days running.

I converted my MV v1 to a .150 Aqua flex shaft running in a brass tube. I usually run the Aqua .18 with a 2.5 tuned pipe but have also run the OS 18CVR-M in that boat with zero drive line problems.

Shockwaver

Sean - When you run a bigger prop do you still use the .150 drive dog and use brass tubing to shim the props? - Chris- Thanks for info - about running the cvrm engine, I ended up with a mac 3.5 pipe #1120 which come to find out is really for aero, what do you guys think about running it, on the Os18 cvrm engine?, my plan was to put it on the 21 when I swap engines, I run 40% Do you think it will be ok? Noel

beaverboy

It is simple to make a brass tubing shim (or two in case you drop one). I have had problems with "stuck" stock Aqua drive dog set screws so I use an Octura drive dog. Not trying to answer for you, Sean. Throw in your 2 cents worth also if you wish.

My OS 18CVR-M has not responded very well to the MAC 3.5 pipe in my Mean Machine. However it seemed to like the MAC 2.5 pipe when I put it into my MV. I also run 40% and no head gasket. I'm not a tuned pipe expert so someone else will have to answer the aero vs marine issue.

Shockwaver

Chris - I know this question is off topic but i was wondering do you run 40% nitro in the stock aqua 18 engine with the head gasket removed? with it in place? or with extra head shim? I see the cvrm engine you run without - Also the octura drive dog on the .150 shaft, is it a .150 drive dog or an .187

beaverboy

I ran 15% for the first 6 tanks during break in of my MV. Then I used 30% for the next 4 tanks. By then the piston and cylinder liner were broken in - no sag during full throttle runs. I think my initial HSN setting was about 3 turns out in 55F weather. I then took out the head gasket and have run up to 65%, but prefer 40%. The CVR-M head gasket is still installed...or at least I presume there is one in it. Other folks on RCU have said that it is not a good idea to remove the CVR-M gasket.

I run a .125 bore Octura drive dog on the .125" prop shaft of the MV v2 shaft and a 3/16" bore Octura drive dog on my MM 3/16" shaft. File a flat spot on the prop shaft where the drive dog set screw touches the shaft to make sure it stays tight.

Sean Bowf

I have turned an M440 and an X637 with a TZ with a 150 cable. Not a lot of time on it, but I have yet to have a failure.

As for cables, etc. When I have run props with a 1/8th inch bore, I have used the stock Aquacraft 150 flex cable. I ran this with the stock engine, a CVRM, and a TZ. When I run a larger bore prop (3/16th), I run an octura 150 flex cable assembly I got from offshoreelectrics.com. It has a 3/16th stub and prop shaft. I get them for about $10 unassembled, and assemble them myself. I think they sell them assembled for $20. Steve has seemed pretty helpful to me in the past, so I would bet he would probably cut them to the length needed if you asked him.

I have tried the brass tubing shim in the past, but it always seemed to leave a little slop. This always left a little voice in the back of my head saying "are you sure it is still balanced?", and "is the leading edge of the hub causing unneeded drag?". It probably would have been fine...but I need to shut that little voice up...

I run %40 nitro fuel. CVRM has shims in, AQ engines have them removed.

Sean

Shockwaver

Sean Thank you for telling me about offshore electrics GREAT SITE!!!!!!!!!