TomMoorehouse

Told ya i'd try anything once....

I put a lot of different ideas I wanted to try in to this design. It is completely different that anything i've done before! I've been working hard.... maybe, just maybe I will get it done this year? Still have a lot to do!

I think I should have made the tub just a little wider.... oh well too late now!

What ya think Rod?

Thanks for the inspiration!
Tom

TCHedOff

Wow! Someone has been BUSY!

However the rear end isnt what Rod would suggest....

TomMoorehouse

what did I miss? did he want the stuffing tube covered?

geraghty

Tom,
I just saw this post.....Do this to the boat I see in the photos........Print this out and use it like a check list.......

1.Get those rears off the boat and burn em'.....You have to cover up that stuffing tube to free up the boat.........

2.Make a 3/4" wide ski that starts under the motor,covering the stuffing tube, and extends out the rear of the boat under the strut.
Set the strut right on top of the ski bottom sheeting.Overhang the bottom sheeting of the rear ski 1/16" on either side.

3.Set the depth of the ski and sponsons so the tub bottom is parallel to the table.

4.Set the AOA of the front sponsons at 4 to 5 degrees.......the AOA of the rear ski is what it is.Set the front sponson width at least 13" for a .12 boat, and 15" for a .21 boat .....This is important.
You will need no other adjustments built into the boat........

5.Overhang the sheeting of the front sponson bottoms the same 1/16" on either side of the sponson.

6.For a .12 boat install a Miss Vegas turn fin at the rear of the sponson,put on a 1440 and go run a boat that will do nothing stupid and will be pushing the hell out of 60MPH with a .12......I see the boat in the photos is a .21 but all of the above applies except for the prop and turnfin.......Put on a H-7 and you will probably be all over 70+


In the future the bottom of your tub should look just like the bottoms of your sponsons.......flat surfaces with overhanging joints.......
You do not want,or need angled outside chines on the front sponsons if you follow the instructions I have given you.........The front sponsons you have in your photos will work great set at 4 degrees......

"OVERHANG DOES NOT MAKE A BOAT TRIP OR ROLL OVER".......If your boat rolls over in a corner something else is wrong........

Any questions ......call me........I am tired of typing...........enjoy

TCHedOff

UH YEAH - WAHT HE SAID !!

I'm glad Rod chimed in - I feel foolish putting this all out there 'cause I'm no one - but I trust Rod's experience and have been busy assembling a .12 rigger to his specs and am looking forward to this summer!!! The Twin Cities has a .12 class with 6-8 guys running and none of them come on RCU - so they are none the wiser.

TCHedOff

UH YEAH - WHAT HE SAID !!

I'm glad Rod chimed in - I feel foolish putting this all out there 'cause I'm no one - but I trust Rod's experience and have been busy assembling a .12 rigger to his specs and am looking forward to this summer!!! The Twin Cities has a .12 class with 6-8 guys running and none of them come on RCU - so they are none the wiser. [>:]

TomMoorehouse

ok, ill change the rears (make a center sponson) this weekend...

TomMoorehouse

I'm trying to figure out the rear sponson.... should it cover the strut? should it stop right at the strut? and I assume it must be flat angles with a break like the fronts?.... I might have to redo the stuffing is my concern as it is already glued in. oh yea... and would you recommend 1/32 or 1/16 ply for the rear sponson bottom sheeting?

So i'm tryng to draw this out cause when I just wing it I usually messup. If it has the tub bottom parallel to the table top..... this is a huge question I should just call ya.... I need to get your phone number....

TCHedOff

Tom: Yes the "ski" should enclose the strut too - according to Rod, it stays in a fixed position and is epoxied to the inside bottom surface of the "ski". Use 1/16 ply for the "ski". I'm not sure what you mean by "flat angles w/a break like the fronts"?? - but yes the ski is s'posed to be one long flat surface from where the stiffing tube exits the boat to the end of the strut.

When the assembled boat is placed on a flat table (w/o turnfin in the way), the bottom of the sponsons and the bottom of the ski should such that the tub sits level and parallel to the table - anotherwords the bottom of the sponsons and bottom of the ski should be the same depth.

Here is a build thread of one of these going together. A ways down you'll find the "ski" being built... http://www.geocities.jp/hirashow10076/framepage3.html.

Hope this helps

todd

TomMoorehouse

bad link for the build thread.... can ya fix it? id like to see it!

thanks
tom

TCHedOff

Tom - send me your email - I'll send email you the page - and also send you a page that has a boat plan drawn up (in mm).

For those dont have a problem w/the links, the boat plan is:
http://homepage3.nifty.com/katariya/...subpage01.html

I to both from got there from this main page:
http://www.geocities.jp/hirashow10076/toppage1.html

todd hollander

carl cisneros

Todd;

i found the thread.

carl cisneros

great subject matter.

not i know what i want to build this winter.

a home for the new Valvola.

carl cisneros

Rod;

can you send me basic measurements for a 60 size one?

carl

RaceCraftRC

Quick ?, this would have to emply to scale hydros right!! angular sponsons not the soft rolling foil? what about the flex line ( proboat hydros have a clear unfilled line or visable space between the line and the boat) should this filled and used like a ski? Thanks , I think I have exposed to way to much info with this post, and am now more confused than ever!

TCHedOff

Yes Racecraft these ideas apply to hydros. I believe in the Miss Vegas thread there is a guy named "Guppy" who has a Miss Vegas with modded sponsons (flat - not curved surfaces) who is successfully running .21 engine (and he attached pics of the sponson bottoms). Do a search on "guppy". He was taught to do this by Jerry Dunlap, who is a longtime friend of Rod G. Rod said the reason the fiberglass boats have curves is mainly to be able to pull the boat hulls off the molds - so its more a mfring requirement rather than because it is the best design.

As for using a "ski" to enclose the stuffing tube on a hydro.... 1) yes the curves of the stuffing tube creates drag (Bernoulli) per Rod; 2) I havent tried enclosing a hydro one (tho I own a Miss Bud 1/12). 3) Rod & I focused on riggers - and he made it very clear the the bottommost part of the sponsons and the bottommost part of the ski should be on the same plane.... anotherwords if you set the assembled rigger on the table (w/o turn fin) the hull should sit parallel to the tabletop. 4) I dont know if #3 applies to hydros.... Remember, the rear center ski lifts the boat's rear hull out of the water, and I imagine it's going to push the nose down and change the overall ride of the boat and in your hydro this may not be for the better (might want to start submarining down into the water). So if you try it, make sure you do it in a way that can be changed back w/o a ski.

RaceCraftRC

I tryed the search but I takes atleast 135 pages to make a MV Fast !! LOL

carlnoki

just got the list together for the wood needed to make a 21 and a 60 rigger this winter.

power will be CMB 21 valvola and a MAC 67.

will be using a carbon pipe on the valvola.

I hope everyone had a great Christmas and will have an even better new year.

and if anyone wouldlike to come up to Woodbridge VA and run boats, please by all means come on up. got pleanty of room at the house.



carl cisneros

carlnoki

got the wood and foam cut out for the 21 sponsons and am just waiting for warmer weather so i can do some epoxying out in the garage.

carl

TCHedOff

Got off the phone w/Rod today. He's finally released plans for these Japanese style riggers and these have been tested quite a bit by Dave Hall, Ron Zaker Jr, and Martin Truex - so it is now a "proven" design. Best of all the plans are FREE!! (Cant count the number of request for free rigger plans!). I have yet to run mine (and up til now I was asked not to show any pics of my in-progress boat) but those who have done the testing have been able to achieve mid 60's runs consistently w/a mod .12 and mid 70's with a mod .18 in HEAT RACE TRIM!

Rod said he did this so there would be an affordable rigger that was reliable and performed well for all us boaters. Thanks ROD! Cost can be done for @300 and that is counting a new engine, all hardware etc. Mr Solinger has made engine mounts and strut & rudder (tho other stuff can be used - I've got Fullers fast electric strut for example); Mark Sholund has proven/tested props ready for sale and your good to go.

To obtain a set of the free plans email Rod for em at: [email protected].

Copy the plans to a CD and take 'em to Kinko's or equivalent and have them printed out at 1:1 scale on paper that is 24" by 36" (will cost @$4.50 per sheet - there are 3 sheets to printed - total cost under $15!! )

Here in the Twin Cities, the .12 rigger class is the biggest class in our club this year for racing... Some are totally self-designed, others have components of Rod's input; mine has ALL his input - hopefully, that will give me an edge!

Lasly, Rod mentioned that the older engines will require mods to achieve these speeds, but he promised that Glenn Quarles will have a new batch of Novarossi's coming straight from the factory with the necessary timing etc to run this fast w/o mods (THANKS GLENN!!!!!! )

The water up here is just starting to thaw - April 26th is our clubs 1st event - a speed run using radar. I expect to be there, and weather permitting, I'll let you know how I do (I'm just worried I wont be able to get the engine fully broken in before then - we often get a snow fall or two in April up here! [X(])

Cheers everyone (now go out an build a RIGGER!! and join the DARK SIDE young SkyWalker!!! )

todd hollander

TCHedOff

FREE RIGGER PLANS for .12 or .18 engines - see above! (I put this in so people who search in the future can find this!)

michaelbarnes

got the plans already and starting to build!

advanced builder

A great article, with my morning coffee

advanced builder

A FLEX HEX 5mm x 130 from the funboat people they call it short hex don't like the one set screw ideal seams alot of play on that 5mm

TCHedOff

Mine is set up for a .150 flex cable.

advanced builder

I got a real good look at that farwest site , nice rigger build, clean & informative for not being able to read what they say