R.J. West

Hi thanks for the info!

I've ordered from xenalook couple times before and I've been very happy with the prices and speedy delivery, great source of parts!
I plan on placing another order soon....Its good to see production continue on these great little engines...
Thanks..Ron

Air Mover

Yes I'm happy to see they will actually be making Tee Dee's again..whew. Word is they want to bring back the 020 as well due to the micro rx and servos on the market these days; that size motor will get more use in performance driven applications rather then the old putt putt days of yor..

I plan to convert this rigger I ran sat with the cox 020 rc is one of my winter projects.  And I want to do a scale hydro look with some walnut sheeting I have with the TD 051. And I would like to do a all out speed rigger on the Tee Dee 09. Back in the day I ran the 051 , 049, and 074 in my rigger and in my  Dumas mono speeds over 20mph but not in the 30's. Weight is a factor with the Dumas hydro's but with the lite rc gear we have on hand now I would imagine you will see 20 to 30mph.

R.J. West

Just out of curiousity, I'm going to look around and see how much my little Atlas van lines weighs. I did make some lightening holes in most of the frames and bulkheads and I'm sure I lost an ounce or so of weight...Overall the build is going well, no hiccups except I'm trying to decide what to do with a rudder....I have the "Rivers" rudder which doesnt feel like it weighs much, and its a nice little peice however I'm concerned about drag after looking at it for awhile....Its a wedge design, and I think we really should use a thin blade rudder..
So I have a choice, either I can file down the rivers rudder flat, or build a small dumas style rudder similar to the short stuff design and hang it off the right side transom..

Air Mover

The lightening holes help more so as that's one less thing to add the painting process to which even adds more weight. The rudder is over kill for a cox motor to drag around. Bare in mind thereed valve049 enginesonly have a small window of operation from satisfactoryto mild performance with the needle settings and the fusswill have you up grading to a Tee Dee 051 fast; if the boat is draggy n heavy. So less hanging massunder the hull the better. When the back is down it has to overcome all that hardware drag before the prop has a chance of getting up on the hub. So all that metal is another battle for the engine to overcome. I make all my rudders for this very reason when it comes to the micro size boats. I imagine you want a scale lookanyways, It would be a shame to cut down that rudder as its suited well for 09 to 18 engines.

R.J. West

I may use the "Rivers" strut and rudder for my Short Stuff, which I have a Medallion .09 for it....

Thats why I went for the .015 brass sheet to cut my turn fin from and most likely cut a rudder from that same sheet as well....Probably make a dumas style rudder....Similar to the one that came with their hardware kit only mine would be alittle bit longer....
I was thinking about using a small basswood block on the transom, with a brass tube glued in it as a bushing, and soldering a 1/8 shaft onto the rudder and a tiller arm up on top to keep it together....Instead of wood block I could use a small aluminum U shape bracket cut from stock as a rudder mount.....Just as an idea.

Air Mover

Well the wood block idea wont show off the shinny metal hardware look as good as going with a metal U bracket made out of your metal sheet stock. The idea is to have a tube slit and drilled to allow the rudder to kick back if you hit something save your transom/hardware trick.The other upside is you can use the polishing wheel on all your metal parts and shine them up like glass for more of a scale look. You can solder control arm on but you can also as a choiceepoxy in a cut off threaded bolt in the tube and nut down a control arm the up side is you can now adjust the arm to suit trim needs without messing with the servo arm side to maintain even throw left or right.

R.J. West

Thanks for the info I really appreciate it.
Your drawing ofthe rudder was pretty much what I had in my head....I dont have any machine tools, all I have is a dremel and a razor saw, and plenty of patience and band-aids...

I do have some spare solid 1/8 brass tubes with a slot already cut into it for the rudder, I just need to cut a rudder and make the mount, I agree on using a metal mount....It wouldnt take much to create one from small stock....Johnny's true value down here in Harlingen is pretty well stocked store, I'l check tomorrow....
My only problem is I dont have the capability to drill a small hole in the rudders shaft to allow it to kick back....I may have to use nylon screws to mount the bracket to the transom if thats the case. I used nylon screws before, they should break off in case of striking something, before ripping out the transom.
Heres a pic of what I have so far, the brass with the tube is what I have cut from .015 sheet, the rudder on theright is from the short stuff kit and on theleft is the original rudder for the Atlas

Hydro Junkie

Here's a nice litle mill for you. I have one and it works great if you don't overload it http://sherline.com/5000pg.htm
Need a lathe? Here's one of those as well http://sherline.com/4000pg.htm

R.J. West

Hey Thanks Hydro junkie!

Those are probably something I should have purchased yrs ago. I've been doing things the old fashioned way for yrs....

Hydro Junkie

I'll be the first to admit the mini stuff is limited on size and ability. For up to scale size boats, they can handle most of what you would need to make of you have the tooling to work with. A word of caution, tooling adds up in cost very quickly[X(]

robot797

i have a cox boat....

pictures soon.

need help selecting radio system.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Congrats, Robot you found one [8D]

Can't wait to see the pics!

Lots of radios out there to choose from. Definetly get a wheel type controller.

RJ good info on decking, thanks! I been finding veneers on ebay that I like. Sapele wood is my choice so far. Besides the 1/42" plain veneers, I found some that is close to .100" thick which would be nice for exposed bulkheads.

robot797

here are pictures and 2 problems

problems(who can help me)




pictures

R.J. West

Hi Robot, nice boat!
Looks like a Dumas "Short stuff"....and it appears to have a Cox "Medallion" engine with a throttle ring...The long tube is if you wish to presurize the fuel tank and to the best of my knowledge it is sealed off at the factory. Iknow alot of guys insist to get presure from the crankcase off the rear backplate....If it was me, I would just leave it alone, because if you use backpresure the engine may be a bit more tempermental....However engine performance may increase slightly...I'm still learning myself...
The small nipple is for fuel intake and if the fuel line does not want to stay on, I would first replace the fuel line with a new one....and I'm not sure what the other guys use to prevent the line from popping off, I would use a mini zip tie, if they make them that small....Or maybe a small sandwich bag tie...

Air Mover

Its a spring post and over time people started drilling through for what they thought was a way to produce pressure for there tanks. Your lucky to find a Dumas boat with all the gear in it, these daysits rare. You should have no problem making this run again providing you refurbish with patients and care. With todays modern light weight gear and some fuel it shouldzipalong well. You can nip off the old fuel line tubing back a bit to have a fresh connection to the carb. Strip the wire off a bread bag tie if the plastic tube isnt holding.

R.J. West

I always wondered why the presure nipple was so long, now I know why.....

robot797

lets say there isnt an original fuel line.

and i am missing 1 lint that lets the water out.

there are no oil traces in the boat (never been runned??)

i only can buy fuel lines that have thich walls 2 a 3mm

and the original was verry thin 1 mm rubber wall. (found a peace in the tank all broken and rotten)

Air Mover

Yes you really need 1/2A line so go to eBay for one spot to look they sell it there.  Scroll back in the blog for a nice link to tons of 1/2A products. If it was me I would carefully take the gear out polish the hardware up and clean the motor with a light oil soaking polish up the aluminum parts even the glow plug. Once you have put some pride in her you will marvel over and yearn for a good run at the local watering hole.

robot797

welll my parrents dont let me accep post anymore from foring country's (i am from holand)

and now i cant order a adapter glow plug.

i am realy pissed about that

another question
can i link a acoms hyabusha recever to a spectrum transmitter?
(bouth are 2.4 ghz 10ma)

but when i find it in holland i will post a picture

R.J. West

I found out that #000 steel wool is a great way to polish out the aluminum in my Cox engines and any other metal parts in my boats, I then wash them with soap & water, dry them out well and then lightly oil up with either WD-40 or light machine oil, whichever is closest to my hand at that time....

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Robot you have a very good start on boating with that boat. It looks well built, and well thought out and it's complete for the most part.

It is good to hear it is in such great shape. I can tell by the dirt around the motor though it has been run because when you run these motors it is almost impossible to get all the oil traces off of it and that is the brown furry tarnish on most of it.

You will need a few small items to help with your motor such as a pair of Cox engine wrenches. You need two wrenches to take the glow head off because sometimes the cylinder loosens with the glowhead, and you do not want to hold it with pliers and make marks. Cox used to sell starting kits for their motors that contained a pint of fuel, wrenches, battery and glow clip. Pretty much all you need to start and run one of these.

I would spend some time with looking at how things go together with the boat and what is possible to remove, and try your hand at cleaning and rebuilding it into your own.

Being in Holland and not being able to accept outside post is going to be hard, but if you are careful about taking it apart and asking questions if you're not clear on how, keep asking questions. You have to be careful not to break anything or such where getting a replacement part sent might be a problem. Keep us posted as to what your up to with it!

This last week I got my $10 plus shipping used product motor the kind with the plastic backplate. You will get a kick out of how this guy described the engine and the picture it had. The descripton said "This is a vintage Cox .049 model airplane engine. It contains the Cox easy start spring system, prop and tank. The motor has been lubricated, has good compression and is ready to start." Oiled alright! About a quart of fuel through it never wiped down and I am positive the last landing was a hard one. The needle valve was bent over like a rusty nail. Almost couldn't unscrew it very well. The spring starter was bent in such a way it would not release from the prop which was cut and shaped by what looks like a pocket knife down to about 4".

I soaked the parts in lamp oil overnight and gave them a scrub with an old toothbrush and some Simple Green. I found that is a pretty friendly way of cleaning off all the old castor oil and most of it stays with the lamp oil that I pour back into a small jar.

I just finished cleaning the reed and thought I would post how I go about it.

I used "Mother's Billet Polish" this time but you can use just about any metal polish out there that is a cream.

Put a small amount on some typing paper and smear a patch of it where there is nothing standing anymore it is all in the paper.

Working in circles on the clean part of the paper, swirl into the edge of the polish patch and back out to where its clean again. Just a small amount which is picked up by your finger is enough to do it, and sometimes thats too much.

Takes a little practice and can be frustrating to learn until you can do it smooth, and be careful not to snag it and crease it. Just do light circles with the reed under your fingertip, and if you get the pressure and amount of polish right, it rides along with your finger and shines up good.

This one was stained past cleaning. It is just discoloration into the copper, but it is definetly smooth and clean.

Clean everything up and put the same side out as you found it, good as new. Check to see if it is not caught by the clip with a toothpick or such. It should be free to float around behind the clip.

By the way, I am almost certain this dirt bomb only had one flight on it. After cleaning it and looking at the piston it only had been fired once, and not for long.

I like the backplate engines because of the external tank feature and they are light! Still hoping to fall across a Killer Bee plastic backplate with the larger intake.

Next is backing out the crankshaft and warming up the cylinder case and unscrew the head and cylinder to get the piston clear to clean.

Stainless steel wire brushes do a good job on aluminum also. A bit quicker and not as complete as steel wool but does an okay job at taking out stains. I think I will just wire brush this one and put it back together. There have been others I've done a complete polish and restoration to like my twin-needle Space Hopper.

Air Mover

 I use a wheel grinder buffer machine with a rouge stick for aluminum and brass. Soft wire brush works wonders to clean out old glow plug fins. I always shine everything I can on boats to help ward off water damage and oxidation.  Jepack your space hopper loooooks sexxy woot.

robot797

i have some experience with a cox sure start. (i made a hovercraft with that)

i have a cox wrench (ordered the engine and the wrench at the time i still may order in other country's

well i will try to clean it.

and thank you for all the help

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Robot about your radio question, did you try and ask at the radio forum? I am not familiar with the newer gig radios myself but Im sure someone might know your brand question.

You might even try a search once you are there using keywords. Someone might have already started a topic that would help.

Early on in the thread I posted a picture of a fiberglass cowl for the Atlas Van Lines hydro but never saved the seller on ebay who offers them. They popped up again and now I know "vfoam" is the seller.

I am not 100% sure without writing him about them, but he's offering others that are similar, such as a fiberglass cowling for the small Miss Thriftway.

R.J. West

Hey Jetpack,
I had a similar incident with a Golden Bee that I recently picked up where the picture looked real clean & good, and described as being in excelant condition and turns over, however when I got it, it was sized up and had what looked like someone tried to turn it over with a pair of pliers.....So I broke the engine down, and bought a rebuild kit for the rear housing and a new crankshaft & engine block...The cool thing is that the seller agreed to reimburse half of what Ipaid for after I complained a bit. So I took the 23 bux and used that to pay for the NIB Dumas Ace Sloop sail boat I just won....Had the same boat as a kid and it was a fun free sailer....