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  1. #201
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Yes,, it does need sealing to make it last and keep the fiberglass from absorbing fuel.
    Top Speed Hobbies llc. Gotta Need For Speed..
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  2. #202

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18


    ORIGINAL: amax

    Yes,, it does need sealing to make it last and keep the fiberglass from absorbing fuel.
    WHat do I use? Like the bondo resin thats available in auto stores? WHat about bracing? Ive seen some people brace the inside at a few points on the older MV. Anything else? 50% fuel, grim racer prop and steering rudder, and thats pretty much it right?

  3. #203

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Here are some more ideas to make you MV hull run properly and last longer: Seal the inside of the hull and cowl styrofoam with West System Epoxy if you can get it at a marine store. Wrap the exhaust header with 1/8" tubing or buy the SV27 piece from Tower to cool it. Make sure the lower bolt in the rudder bracket is nylon or brass so it will shear if you hit something. Make sure the stuffing tube is aligned with the engine coupling. Replace the Aqua Craft Engine Cable Coupler with a Dumas coupler. Make sure the drive dog set screw is tight against the milled spot on the drive shaft and has about 3/16" clearance with the back of the strut bearing for drive shaft "windup". Grease the shaft well. Set the prop centerline 3/4" below the bottom if you're using the Grim or Dumas Y535 prop. Epoxy a 1/8" plywood piece on the bottom of your radio box to keep it from cracking. Put two bolts that protrude about 3/16" from each side of the radio box so that you can secure the top with rubber bands rather than the little screws that eventually strip or break off the tabs. Make sure that your throttle goes to full open and full closed. Put a fuel filter in the fuel line.

  4. #204

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18


    ORIGINAL: beaverboy

    Here are some more ideas to make you MV hull run properly and last longer: Seal the inside of the hull and cowl styrofoam with West System Epoxy if you can get it at a marine store. Wrap the exhaust header with 1/8'' tubing or buy the SV27 piece from Tower to cool it. Make sure the lower bolt in the rudder bracket is nylon or brass so it will shear if you hit something. Make sure the stuffing tube is aligned with the engine coupling. Replace the Aqua Craft Engine Cable Coupler with a Dumas coupler. Make sure the drive dog set screw is tight against the milled spot on the drive shaft and has about 3/16'' clearance with the back of the strut bearing for drive shaft ''windup''. Grease the shaft well. Set the prop centerline 3/4'' below the bottom if you're using the Grim or Dumas Y535 prop. Epoxy a 1/8'' plywood piece on the bottom of your radio box to keep it from cracking. Put two bolts that protrude about 3/16'' from each side of the radio box so that you can secure the top with rubber bands rather than the little screws that eventually strip or break off the tabs. Make sure that your throttle goes to full open and full closed. Put a fuel filter in the fuel line.
    That should be an Octura Flex Hex Coupler and Octura Y535.

    JD

  5. #205

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Great info guys.....does TOwer Hobbies carry the Octura Flex coupler and Y535 prop? ANybody know one single place I can get all the replacement parts I need?

  6. #206
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Stock Replacement parts you can get from Tower the easiest but Upgrades like Prop, Coupler, Flex Shaft, Exhaust, Engine You will have to Surf for and pick the site's your most comfortable with.
    I have the coupler and Prop S&B if your interested I also have the M435\3 which works real well with the stock set up to.
    Top Speed Hobbies llc. Gotta Need For Speed..
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  7. #207

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Amax is good to deal with no worries there!
    http://www.youtube.com/user/toyotatruckin
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  8. #208

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18


    ORIGINAL: amax

    Stock Replacement parts you can get from Tower the easiest but Upgrades like Prop, Coupler, Flex Shaft, Exhaust, Engine You will have to Surf for and pick the site's your most comfortable with.
    I have the coupler and Prop S&B if your interested I also have the M435\3 which works real well with the stock set up to.
    I doubt I'll upgrade the engine since alot of people think its a good performance fit for the boat(unless Im wrong there)but the prop,steering,rudder,shaft, whatever etc, I sure will do. WOuld like to get the maximum potential out of the boat. ANd when I say that, Im not talking top speed necessarily since this is just a weekend bashing boat(no place in my area to try racing), but handling and durability as well.
    In other words, it doesnt have to be the fastest, butI want it well balanced if you catch my meaning.

    Amex, do you have a link to your website? Maybe someone can just take out all the guesswork for me and just list me the parts, #'s and cost and a place or places to grab em to make this a painfree process for me.

    I have already decided to dump the stock radio and reciever(Ill keep servos if they do the job well)for the Spektrum DX3R and marine reciever.

    Also, I see some people bracing the inside of the MVD, what kind of braces are being used, where do i get em? Or are they just long wood dowels glued in?

    Appreciate the help.

  9. #209
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Do you mean This Brace in front of the fuel tank mount??




    I'm working on getting my website up, for now most my sales are word of mouth. But this is my YouTube Channel so you can see what your boat COULD Run like (with one of My engines in it).
    Top Speed Hobbies llc. Gotta Need For Speed..
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  10. #210

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18


    ORIGINAL: amax

    Do you mean This Brace in front of the fuel tank mount??




    I'm working on getting my website up, for now most my sales are word of mouth. But this is my YouTube Channel so you can see what your boat COULD Run like (with one of My engines in it).
    Yeah, Ive seen some people bracing the front and rear even. Wasnt sure the need though on the MVD since I guess they upgraded the hull a bit from the original?

    As for speed, see I dont mind faster. But if the higher speed means the boat becomes hard to drive/steer with potential for wiping out, then Id rather not. Reading the article from RC universe, they recommend 50% fuel with a new steering fin(or something, im still learning the parts names)and grimracer prop to get it up to snuff in the 40 plus mph range. I have no problems going faster than that, but its gotta be easy to drive for me and my boy still. Ive seen some vids of tunnel hulls(TS3 etc) getting up to speed where they easily launch airborn and flip. Not sure if thats an issue with the MVD, but dont want to deal with that on a regular basis. Just good no hassle fun on the water.

  11. #211
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    I haven't messed with the MVD just the vegas, but the MVD will have a lot of the same issues.
    The brace I did because the center section Sagged real bad and set the sponson angel way off and drew them together. I thoroughly sanded all the areas to be epoxied, then cleaned and epoxied the inner braces on either side of the engine well and the floor of the boat first, then epoxy in a syringe squirted along the Back Side of the inner brace to lock them in place completely. Then Spread the sponsons Apart As far as I could without ripping the boat apart, Then measured the distance between the braces and the inside edge of the sponsons, and cut 1"x1\4" wood strips and the fiberglass rod, I cut them longer than the measurement just under the amount I could spread the sponsons. Then Spread the sponsons Apart and put the wood strips in place to hold everything Spread Out, I put a couple between the sponsons and a couple inside behind the area I was installing the brace. Then I Squirted some epoxy with the syringe up in the front seam area where brace was going and installed the brace and applied a little more epoxy on top of it. Let the epoxy Dry COMPLETLY for at least 24hr then remove the braces. The sponsons will be further apart to give a wider Foot Print which is More Stable, and they will sit flatter which is good for More Speed. The center section sits higher and makes the cowl fit Much Better, it gives more clearance over the waves in the center so it Hops less in ruff water, and Scoops more air under the boat to help Lift it and the transom to Full Plane. It also stops the boat from Twisting when bouncing over waves at high speeds which Makes It more stable.

    The faster you make ANY Boat run the greater the chance of a Blow Over and the more work that needs to be done Tweaking and Tuning the set up to counter it. By the time the Stock engine Feels Slow you will have More Knowledge to Push it to the Next Level. There's a lot of Good Info in this forum and a few others and Lots of good people that will help you out.
    Part of the Thrill of running a 3 point Hydro(which is what you have) is Riding that Fine Line between Screaming and Blowing Over, Which is where the boat Rides the best. But SOMTIMES You Will Cross that Line.
    Top Speed Hobbies llc. Gotta Need For Speed..
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  12. #212

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18


    ORIGINAL: amax

    I haven't messed with the MVD just the vegas, but the MVD will have a lot of the same issues.
    The brace I did because the center section Sagged real bad and set the sponson angel way off and drew them together. I thoroughly sanded all the areas to be epoxied, then cleaned and epoxied the inner braces on either side of the engine well and the floor of the boat first, then epoxy in a syringe squirted along the Back Side of the inner brace to lock them in place completely. Then Spread the sponsons Apart As far as I could without ripping the boat apart, Then measured the distance between the braces and the inside edge of the sponsons, and cut 1"x1\4" wood strips and the fiberglass rod, I cut them longer than the measurement just under the amount I could spread the sponsons. Then Spread the sponsons Apart and put the wood strips in place to hold everything Spread Out, I put a couple between the sponsons and a couple inside behind the area I was installing the brace. Then I Squirted some epoxy with the syringe up in the front seam area where brace was going and installed the brace and applied a little more epoxy on top of it. Let the epoxy Dry COMPLETLY for at least 24hr then remove the braces. The sponsons will be further apart to give a wider Foot Print which is More Stable, and they will sit flatter which is good for More Speed. The center section sits higher and makes the cowl fit Much Better, it gives more clearance over the waves in the center so it Hops less in ruff water, and Scoops more air under the boat to help Lift it and the transom to Full Plane. It also stops the boat from Twisting when bouncing over waves at high speeds which Makes It more stable.

    The faster you make ANY Boat run the greater the chance of a Blow Over and the more work that needs to be done Tweaking and Tuning the set up to counter it. By the time the Stock engine Feels Slow you will have More Knowledge to Push it to the Next Level. There's a lot of Good Info in this forum and a few others and Lots of good people that will help you out.
    Part of the Thrill of running a 3 point Hydro(which is what you have) is Riding that Fine Line between Screaming and Blowing Over, Which is where the boat Rides the best. But SOMTIMES You Will Cross that Line.
    Amax, looking over the boat I dont see how to spread the sponsons, the hull looks like a single piece and then the top cowl. Regardless Im sure I can epoxy/resin in some braces at the 2 points shown. I know you guys mentioned some type of marine resin/epoxy, but is there any reason why I cant use a resin/hardener with some fiberglass matte from an auto store? If not can someone provide me a link with the recommended resin/hardener online so I can order it up?

    AMax: Also, shoot me a PM please with some contact info, would be glad to pick up parts from you.

    Also anybody have part #'s for these brass/plastic screws that are designed the sheer away saving the hull? Plus the part #'s of all the upgrades I can do? thanks guys!

    Oh anddothey make a bigger gas tank that will easily fit in the Deuce? The tank it comes with seems pretty small, would like to increase run time if possible.

    Last thing: DOes the boat need to be launched forward when putting it in the water or can you just lay the boat in? Seems like in all the videos people throw them forward.................

  13. #213

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    i would go with the nylon bolts, they're dirt cheap and you local hobby shop should carry all different sizes, bring your original with you to the LHS or drill it out a tlttle, and put in a slightly bigger one..

    as far as most nitro's, you have to launch them as they dont have a water pump for cooling, and no clutch...you want to get that boat moving asap, the longer it sits wlo water cooling the engine system, the more chances of a problem occuring...
    T-Rex 600N Hughes 500 TOW defender, 450SE Airwolf and 250 NYPD Hughes 500D
    TC31, TS2, TS3, SV27

  14. #214
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18


    ORIGINAL: ntrain42


    ORIGINAL: amax

    I haven't messed with the MVD just the vegas, but the MVD will have a lot of the same issues.
    The brace I did because the center section Sagged real bad and set the sponson angel way off and drew them together. I thoroughly sanded all the areas to be epoxied, then cleaned and epoxied the inner braces on either side of the engine well and the floor of the boat first, then epoxy in a syringe squirted along the Back Side of the inner brace to lock them in place completely. Then Spread the sponsons Apart As far as I could without ripping the boat apart, Then measured the distance between the braces and the inside edge of the sponsons, and cut 1''x1\4'' wood strips and the fiberglass rod, I cut them longer than the measurement just under the amount I could spread the sponsons. Then Spread the sponsons Apart and put the wood strips in place to hold everything Spread Out, I put a couple between the sponsons and a couple inside behind the area I was installing the brace. Then I Squirted some epoxy with the syringe up in the front seam area where brace was going and installed the brace and applied a little more epoxy on top of it. Let the epoxy Dry COMPLETLY for at least 24hr then remove the braces. The sponsons will be further apart to give a wider Foot Print which is More Stable, and they will sit flatter which is good for More Speed. The center section sits higher and makes the cowl fit Much Better, it gives more clearance over the waves in the center so it Hops less in ruff water, and Scoops more air under the boat to help Lift it and the transom to Full Plane. It also stops the boat from Twisting when bouncing over waves at high speeds which Makes It more stable.

    The faster you make ANY Boat run the greater the chance of a Blow Over and the more work that needs to be done Tweaking and Tuning the set up to counter it. By the time the Stock engine Feels Slow you will have More Knowledge to Push it to the Next Level. There's a lot of Good Info in this forum and a few others and Lots of good people that will help you out.
    Part of the Thrill of running a 3 point Hydro(which is what you have) is Riding that Fine Line between Screaming and Blowing Over, Which is where the boat Rides the best. But SOMTIMES You Will Cross that Line.
    Amax, looking over the boat I dont see how to spread the sponsons, the hull looks like a single piece and then the top cowl. Regardless Im sure I can epoxy/resin in some braces at the 2 points shown. I know you guys mentioned some type of marine resin/epoxy, but is there any reason why I cant use a resin/hardener with some fiberglass matte from an auto store? If not can someone provide me a link with the recommended resin/hardener online so I can order it up?

    Β* AMax: Also, shoot me a PM please with some contact info, would be glad to pick up parts from you.

    Β* Also anybody have part #'s for these brass/plastic screws that are designed the sheer away saving the hull? Plus the part #'s of all the upgrades I can do? thanks guys!

    Β* Oh andΒ*doΒ*they make a bigger gas tank that will easily fit in the Deuce? The tank it comes with seems pretty small, would like to increase run time if possible.

    Β* Last thing: DOes the boat need to be launched forward when putting it in the water or can you just lay the boat in? Seems like in all the videos people throw them forward.................

    I Didn't say it would be Easy,, Most people wait on it until there rebuilding after the boat is damaged or just Stressed from running\racing A Lot. Look at your boat from the Front, if the center section Sags or slops down to the center, it Could Use some Tweaking, If it's fairly straight across then your fine and can just epoxy the brace in to prevent twisting and make the boat last longer.

    What happens is due to the high production nature of this hull it is released from the mold before it is Fully Cured and set on a rack or shelf with nothing supporting the center section and it Sags.
    to Spread the sponsons Out you Have to Flex them Out and Wedge the Wood strips in to Hold it Out until the epoxy on the brace dries Completely.
    Like I said It's not a Quick Easy Mod\Repair and something Most don't worry about unless there Racing or Pushing for MAX Performance. The reason some wait until there doing other repairs is Spreading the sponsons Can Crack Seams if you go To Far or the hull is sagging Real Bad, and they will need to be repaired also. Most hobby shops carry a line of 2 part epoxy in 5, 10, 15, and 30 minute drying time, the slower drying epoxies generally dry Harder and More Rigid the Fast drying epoxy stays flexible, You want the Slow stuff.

    Yes you must Skip Toss the boats to launch them, the more aggressive the prop is the more it will need tossing to get up on plane. The octura Y535 prop is the easiest to launch and recover if you spin out on the pond.

    That fuel tank will give you more run time than you think especially with a stock engine, you don't want a lot more fuel in the bow of the boat because it will trow the balance off more and when it's full will make it very difficult to get On Plane. Setting up a 3 point hydro (what you have) is a balancing act to get the hull to ride properly at full plane were it's riding on just 3 points,, the back 1\4 of both sponsons and the prop,, and just as important How the boat will FLY when it leaves the water,, that's why it's called a Hydro-Plane.
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Amax, thanks for the answers, yeah I know not all of the hobby is easy, just want this one to be as painfree as possible since it is my first nitro boat. Since Im not going to be able to run the boat for another 2 weeks, thought Id do all the mods now and get it as durable and reliable as I can possibly make it. So yeah, Ill run down to the hobby store today and grab the 30 minute epoxy, my sponsons look pretty level to the center section in front, so I assume the brace will not be needed? Just a heavy coat of resin throught the tub? Or should I still put some hard braces in?

    OK so for parts:

    Prop: Y535 Octura
    Aquacraft speed grease
    Aquacraft waterproof ballons
    Grimracer hull drain plug(SO I can run one at each rear corner)
    Grimracer 15/18 turn fin OR?(THey also have a 2mm version slightly more expensive, which one to get?)
    Aquacraft radio box foam
    Grimracer precision prop balancer
    30 minute slow dry resin

    OK so what else am I missing here for upgradeparts? Hex coupler(what is that?) and flex shaft and exhaust? WHat does the upgraded flex shaft and coupler do?




  16. #216
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    If it's looking straight across the front then your doing good. If your modding and beefing it up epoxy the inside with a thin coat of epoxy make sure you get a good bead down the wood stringers front and back and the top edge(the fun part) Personally I would put the brace in the front it stiffens the whole boat up quiet a bit which will make it ride better and last longer.
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18


    ORIGINAL: amax

    If it's looking straight across the front then your doing good. If your modding and beefing it up epoxy the inside with a thin coat of epoxy make sure you get a good bead down the wood stringers front and back and the top edge(the fun part) Personally I would put the brace in the front it stiffens the whole boat up quiet a bit which will make it ride better and last longer.
    OK great. Also besides the parts you have is there one online store I can get all the rest of the parts? Having problems finding them.......also whats a hex coupler? WHere do I get an upgraded exhaust? Having problems finding all the parts...........

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Yes the brace across the front helps keep it a little stiffer and helps to prevent the front section from cracking out over time, here is my old vegas with the brace installed, side note- keep the added resin in the floor to a minimum just a nice thin seal coat.
    http://www.youtube.com/user/toyotatruckin
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  19. #219
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    The grimm stuff you can get from Tower Hobbies.com
    The exhaust there are a number of options but I Prefer MACS 1\2" dia, header and 3.5 High Nitro tuned Pipe,, But it Aint Quiet. I have the headers but not any pipes at this time.

    The Hex Coupler is the part that attaches the Flex\Drive Cable to the engine the Octura 5mm X .150 flex Hex is the upgrade for that.
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Toyotatruckin what pipe is that on you vegas?

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    mac's 2.5 pipe
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    as for epoxying the bottom like Toyotatruckin and Amax suggested, easiest way is to thin it out with some isopropyl alcohol before applying....i usually add 1 part alcohol to 2 parts epoxy..........the good thing with the alcohol thinning.....when the epoxy drys, the alcohol also evaporates leaving behind a nice thin coat of epoxy...easier than trying to coat it thin on it's own...its a little trick i learned many many moons ago coating the engine compartments of my nitro planes....great not just for strengthening the areas, but also as a fuel proof lining.
    T-Rex 600N Hughes 500 TOW defender, 450SE Airwolf and 250 NYPD Hughes 500D
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  23. #223
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Alcohol isn't a good idea. It does thin it but it also leaves the epoxy softer after curing and takes 40 forevers to dry, if you Must thin it use MEK or Acetone,, MEK is the best thing to use and what most epoxy manufacturers suggest.
    Set the hull out in the sun for an hour or so before applying epoxy, it will open the pour up on the fiberglass for better saturation and Heat thins the epoxy also so it will flow out to a nice slick finish,,and Dry Much Better.
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  24. #224
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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18



    [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oh67cQ7l-hg[/youtube]

    Rob Martinez
    D19

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    RE: AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18

    Can anybody provide links to shops that carry the parts I need? Having serious difficulties getting em all sourced. It would be appreciated............


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