AQUACRAFT'S NEW MISS VEGAS U-18 "The Deuce" Thread
#326
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Parma, MI
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1) When you say you're trying to start the engine with a drill, is this using a starter assembly on the opposite end from the flywheel or are you trying to use a belt around the flywheel?
I'm using a drill with a bit directly into the ball cup(I have the clutch set low in case something binds), where you would use the rotostart or whatever its called if I had one.
2) What throttle settings have you tried? Getting air is not normally an issue, getting the proper amount of fuel is.
having the carb opening be almost closed to about 1/4 way open
3) Have you had anyone with boating experience try and help you out?
I have not got any help from anyone other than trying to find info on the web and calling customer support(the tech support guy was trying to help me by reading form the manual, when I told him I had the manual he said he could'nt help and I needed to email someone for help which I have yet to do.)
Thanks for any help
I'm using a drill with a bit directly into the ball cup(I have the clutch set low in case something binds), where you would use the rotostart or whatever its called if I had one.
2) What throttle settings have you tried? Getting air is not normally an issue, getting the proper amount of fuel is.
having the carb opening be almost closed to about 1/4 way open
3) Have you had anyone with boating experience try and help you out?
I have not got any help from anyone other than trying to find info on the web and calling customer support(the tech support guy was trying to help me by reading form the manual, when I told him I had the manual he said he could'nt help and I needed to email someone for help which I have yet to do.)
Thanks for any help
#327
I'd open the throttle all the way and try again. With a new engine, it's going to need to be very rich to start with and that will require a lot of air. One other thing you could do is see if Ron Olson could either meet up with you or refer you to some one in your area. He is an experienced boater, a member here in the forums and lives in Kalamazoo so he's not that far away from you. You can send him a private message through the forum if that would work for you
#328
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Crawfordville,
FL
Posts: 934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It Sounds like you're To Rich if your getting a lot of excess fuel in the block and exhaust.
1: Slightly Loosen the GLow Plug (wrap a paper towel around the base of the glow plug to prevent Spry Back) when starting to prevent Hydro Lock and to Drop Compression to ease the strain on the Rotostart assembly, They WILL Strip Gears Easily.
2: Try Leaning the HSN about 1\4 turn and Try it again, Repeat as Necessary until it Starts then Richen it Back Up until it starts running Rough.
3: DON't USE The Throttle Trim to Hold Throttle above 1\8 Open Have Somebody Hold The Remote and Use the Trigger to Open Carb so it doesn't go straight to Full Throttle when it starts.
4: Make SURE When you Push the Throttle Trigger Forward it Completely Closes the Carb, this is how you Shut it Off in an Emergency!!!!
4: What heat rang / Brand plug are you using? You WILL Want Extras when you figure out the proper heat rang needed for the fuel your running.
1: Slightly Loosen the GLow Plug (wrap a paper towel around the base of the glow plug to prevent Spry Back) when starting to prevent Hydro Lock and to Drop Compression to ease the strain on the Rotostart assembly, They WILL Strip Gears Easily.
2: Try Leaning the HSN about 1\4 turn and Try it again, Repeat as Necessary until it Starts then Richen it Back Up until it starts running Rough.
3: DON't USE The Throttle Trim to Hold Throttle above 1\8 Open Have Somebody Hold The Remote and Use the Trigger to Open Carb so it doesn't go straight to Full Throttle when it starts.
4: Make SURE When you Push the Throttle Trigger Forward it Completely Closes the Carb, this is how you Shut it Off in an Emergency!!!!
4: What heat rang / Brand plug are you using? You WILL Want Extras when you figure out the proper heat rang needed for the fuel your running.
#329
Hi all,
First post, so let me introduce myself. I am Dennis, age of 28 and I live in the central of The Netherlands, Europe.
Three years ago I bought the second gen Miss Vegas. After dailed in properly I had a lot of fun with this hydro. Friends were impressed about the performance of the stock MV.
Then it happend....
At a birthdayparty of a good friend of mine people were curious how my MV preformed. I just came back from a local pond so I still had the boat in the back of my car. I picked the boat and dropped it in the 10meter wide canal in the backjard of my friends house. The MV was running well but after 60 meters, at top speed and in almost straight line, I hit a buildingfence hanging half in the canal. From my perspection I would passed the fence but badly my MV didnt...
Result...my MV was a total loss..The front of the hull was completely wrecked. Afterwards its a pitty that I didnt made any pictures of the damage.
After a year in the attick a good friend and I decided to restore the badly damaged Vegas.
Several hours of epoxy and polyester went by. Next step was applying several layers of sprayfiller and grinding between each layer. Meanwhile I ordered new hardware at Tower to tune my Vegas. After applying the basecoat we sprayed the hull and canopy in Fluorescent Orange and Metallic Blue. We finished the paintjob with 2k Clearcoat.
Meanwhile the ordered tuning hardware, including OS 18TZ-TX, arrived from Tower so we start to build in the New tuninghardware. I also bought a new transmitter/reciever because the stock transmitter and reciever were probably high tech in the Stone Age but nowadays we live in 2014 so an upgrade of the Tx-rx was welcome. I made the choice for a Carson Ultimate Touch 2,4 ghz system with Telemetry included. Now I am capable of checking engine temperature and reciever voltage while race the boat. I found it could be very usefull with a brand new high performance engine. I already had killswitch hardware in the recieverbox and with the new transmitter/reciever I also have an extra software killswitch. Couldnt be safe enough...At this moment I am breaking in the engine and I will keep you updated when we make progress of other adjustments to improve the preformance.
First post, so let me introduce myself. I am Dennis, age of 28 and I live in the central of The Netherlands, Europe.
Three years ago I bought the second gen Miss Vegas. After dailed in properly I had a lot of fun with this hydro. Friends were impressed about the performance of the stock MV.
Then it happend....
At a birthdayparty of a good friend of mine people were curious how my MV preformed. I just came back from a local pond so I still had the boat in the back of my car. I picked the boat and dropped it in the 10meter wide canal in the backjard of my friends house. The MV was running well but after 60 meters, at top speed and in almost straight line, I hit a buildingfence hanging half in the canal. From my perspection I would passed the fence but badly my MV didnt...
Result...my MV was a total loss..The front of the hull was completely wrecked. Afterwards its a pitty that I didnt made any pictures of the damage.
After a year in the attick a good friend and I decided to restore the badly damaged Vegas.
Several hours of epoxy and polyester went by. Next step was applying several layers of sprayfiller and grinding between each layer. Meanwhile I ordered new hardware at Tower to tune my Vegas. After applying the basecoat we sprayed the hull and canopy in Fluorescent Orange and Metallic Blue. We finished the paintjob with 2k Clearcoat.
Meanwhile the ordered tuning hardware, including OS 18TZ-TX, arrived from Tower so we start to build in the New tuninghardware. I also bought a new transmitter/reciever because the stock transmitter and reciever were probably high tech in the Stone Age but nowadays we live in 2014 so an upgrade of the Tx-rx was welcome. I made the choice for a Carson Ultimate Touch 2,4 ghz system with Telemetry included. Now I am capable of checking engine temperature and reciever voltage while race the boat. I found it could be very usefull with a brand new high performance engine. I already had killswitch hardware in the recieverbox and with the new transmitter/reciever I also have an extra software killswitch. Couldnt be safe enough...At this moment I am breaking in the engine and I will keep you updated when we make progress of other adjustments to improve the preformance.
Last edited by DennisS85; 05-26-2014 at 02:34 AM.
#330
Last weekend we moved the Radiobox 1cm to the rear comparing the stock location of the Radiobox. I noticed a big difference in preformance because the boat will get very very easy in plane now. We decided to move the radiobox because during repairing the hull we reinforced the front nose with epoxy. The CG did change caused by extra weight of the epoxy so we restored the center gravity by moving the radiobox.
I also changed the standard flex cable by a new flexcable with. 187 stub so I am capable of running a larger variety of props. Currently I am sharpen, balancing and pollishing a 3-blade prop of ABC. Prop size 38mm, pitch ratio 1,8. total pitch 68,58mm. Bore 0.187.
I am wondering how the engine will preform with this prop. I am curious if the engine will reach his top RPM and will not be overloaded. Off course we keep an eye at engine temperature. I will get back when we got the first results later this week.
I also changed the standard flex cable by a new flexcable with. 187 stub so I am capable of running a larger variety of props. Currently I am sharpen, balancing and pollishing a 3-blade prop of ABC. Prop size 38mm, pitch ratio 1,8. total pitch 68,58mm. Bore 0.187.
I am wondering how the engine will preform with this prop. I am curious if the engine will reach his top RPM and will not be overloaded. Off course we keep an eye at engine temperature. I will get back when we got the first results later this week.
Last edited by DennisS85; 05-27-2014 at 07:10 AM.
#332
Thank you for your advice! Could you please explain me what will be to much about that ABC 1518? Will it be diameter, the 1,8 pitch or the gross weight of the prop? And if I resize the same prop to 36mm and make it thinner? Would that make any sence?
Thank you in advance!
Thank you in advance!
#334
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Frederick, CO
Posts: 5,973
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for your advice! Could you please explain me what will be to much about that ABC 1518? Will it be diameter, the 1,8 pitch or the gross weight of the prop? And if I resize the same prop to 36mm and make it thinner? Would that make any sence?
Thank you in advance!
Thank you in advance!
#335
Currently I use a 36/55 Grimracer prop equivalent of Octura y535. For your information...I use a quality grade 25% nitro. I will post a YouTube link when I finished break in...will probably be end of this week (depending on wheather conditions)
#336
Aaah, okay! Thx for your explaination! I already got the ABC 1518 prop at home and made it razorsharp. I also use clay to make all ears same size. Currently I am balancing it. I will give it a try when I finished break in. I also need to remove the .002 headshim. Both headshims are currently still in. I know there are Miss Vegas owners have good results on top speed with Octura 2137/3...And that's a 37mm 2,1 pitch prop so that is what confuses me. I still need to cut the 3.5 Macs pipe in length...
An other important issue is the availability of Octura in this area...Its hard to get here.
An other important issue is the availability of Octura in this area...Its hard to get here.
Last edited by DennisS85; 05-27-2014 at 10:01 AM.
#337
I've tried the 38mm ABC 3-blade prop with 1,8 pitch...And indeed, it wasn't a succes. The prop cavitates a lot dont get in plane. Ajustments in stut height or angle didnt make any difference.
Now I've tried an Tenshock 3-blade alu prop 38mm and 1,4 pitch. It runs great now at straights and while cornering! Check YouTube link for the results
Miss Vegas OS18-TZ: http://youtu.be/t1DOnVGVHFA
Now I've tried an Tenshock 3-blade alu prop 38mm and 1,4 pitch. It runs great now at straights and while cornering! Check YouTube link for the results
Miss Vegas OS18-TZ: http://youtu.be/t1DOnVGVHFA
#338
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Houma,
LA
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just got a miss vegas have not run it yet. What made you choose that engine and do you have any problem with it running hot? I watched the video That Thing Moves. Nice job.
#340
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Houma,
LA
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am new to boats. I ran my Miss Vegas about 8 times first completely stock and then with the grim racer brass prop. With the stock prop it would cavitate when I would turn at slower speed. I sharpened and balanced the brass prop also I lowered the prop from the bottom of the hall this helped some. Is this normal? Is the grim racer turning fin better than the stock one?
#341
My Feedback: (1)
The Grimracer prop comes straight out of the package pretty well balanced but could use some sharpening. A plastic prop will flex and in general is not recommended to run on any nitro boat.The hull will lean in the turns so if it is cavitating then raise the strut.The Grimracer turn fin is better than the stock one. It will help to keep the right sponson down in the turns. It's like trying to swim with your hands straight or cupped.
#343
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Houma,
LA
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Has anyone had any problems with the supper tiger 18 in the miss vegus? I have 2 of them one was running inconsistent. It will run great for a few laps then it will slow down. If I richen it up or lean it out it still does the same. I sent that one in to hobby services to see what they have to say. The other one ran great until today it started doing the same thing the other one was doing. I have run about two gallons of fuel through it. To me it seams like it is sucking air from somewhere. Has any one had this happen?
#344
It sounds like it could be the bearings. I had the same problem with a CMB 67 this past summer. At the last race of the year, one of the guys grabbed the flywheel and found that there was sideways play in the bearings and, as the engine warms up, it allows the engine to suck air through the bearings and leans the engine out until it starves for fuel.
#346
Not yet, will be doing so prior to the new racing season. I have a few more parts to order before I tear anything down. As far as your motors go, if you're seeing oil around the flywheel it's a pretty good bet that the bearings are shot
#347
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Houma,
LA
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I pulled the engine out when I put fuel down the carb it leaks out through the baring seal. The baring is the problem. I find it did not last very long. Hobby services says I may have ran it too lean and burnt the engine up. I have ran lots of nitro engines of all kinds I only had one engine that I screwed up it was a car engine, I ported it and it had so much power it broke the crank shaft. I could be wrong but I dont think I ran it too lean. The inside of this engine looks fine. no scoring no discoloration.
#348
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Houma,
LA
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I talked to someone at hobby services that races the miss vegas. He said that the fuel leaking out of the baring is not a big deal. He said that if you run the supper tiger 18 lean one time it will not run well after. He said he has burnt up many of them. He seamed to know a lot about this engine and boats.