Li'l Rascal building
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Li'l Rascal building
Yes I know it is an out dated kit, but I picked it up about 6 years ago and never got around to it until now. I have an O.S. Max CZ-M 0.15 cid motor for it and it is all coming together really well. I know the motor is bigger than called for, but the dimensions are pretty much identical to that of the OS Max 0.10 marine engine.
I was looking at the rutter though and was wondering how the flat blade (actual rutter) gets secured to the control shaft. Both pieces are brass and I am not sure if epoxy will hold them together. I was thinking of soldering it, but my soldering pencil is going to have some trouble heating up the areas enough to get a good bond so I would have to break our a little micro torch. My last thought is a little overkill and drastic, and that is to break out my stich welder and actually weld it. The directions really do not go into any detail on this part of the assembly so help would be appreciated?
Also I know these boats are designed for right hand turns and really don't turn left very well at any kind of speed. I was wondering if I have clearance with the prop and shifted the rutter more to the center of the boat can I make more friendly for unidirectional steering?
For an older kit I have really found this model fun to build. I hope more wooden model kits are made in the future to expand the available options. Right now the only company making wooden kit in any significant number seems to be Dumas and even at that it looks like they are departing from it.
Thanks in advance.
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
check zippkits.
there will be a new rigger kit coming out (not on their site yet) called the JAE .12 rigger, and I believe it will be priced around $39 bucks.
fast little bugger, did I say they are fast?
Dan.
there will be a new rigger kit coming out (not on their site yet) called the JAE .12 rigger, and I believe it will be priced around $39 bucks.
fast little bugger, did I say they are fast?
Dan.
#3
RE: Li'l Rascal building
try Roger Newton if you like to scratch build ,http://www.newtonmarine.com/
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
Thanks! Looks like they have some interesting ideas for models, but it doesn't give any info on the engine size and the like. I think I need a little more experience in the building of wooden RC boats before tackling one of those.
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
to answer your unidirectional question the answer is no, just set it up to turn right, they never turn well to the left due to the torque from the prop, my flat bottom has an outboard and a center skeg so all the turning hardware is centered and it still doesn't turn left well, if they are fast enough turning right is plenty of fun...especially with a small hydro like that, it will be handful in choppy water
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
I had one years ago with a OS.cv .12 , That lil thing was a blast. The boat was set up a little different it had carbon tubes instead of the alum. the hardware was huey I think. The rudder was flat brass about 1"wide with slotted 3/16ths brass tubing slodered to it, very basic but a blast to have. I wish I never gave it away.
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
ORIGINAL: Vertical3-D
to answer your unidirectional question the answer is no, just set it up to turn right, they never turn well to the left due to the torque from the prop, my flat bottom has an outboard and a center skeg so all the turning hardware is centered and it still doesn't turn left well, if they are fast enough turning right is plenty of fun...especially with a small hydro like that, it will be handful in choppy water
to answer your unidirectional question the answer is no, just set it up to turn right, they never turn well to the left due to the torque from the prop, my flat bottom has an outboard and a center skeg so all the turning hardware is centered and it still doesn't turn left well, if they are fast enough turning right is plenty of fun...especially with a small hydro like that, it will be handful in choppy water
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
ORIGINAL: KNahinu
The boat was set up a little different it had carbon tubes instead of the alum. the hardware was huey I think. The rudder was flat brass about 1"wide with slotted 3/16ths brass tubing soldered to it, very basic but a blast to have.
The boat was set up a little different it had carbon tubes instead of the alum. the hardware was huey I think. The rudder was flat brass about 1"wide with slotted 3/16ths brass tubing soldered to it, very basic but a blast to have.
What do you mean Carbon tubes instead of aluminum? I have some water tubes that are brass and some brass for fuel tank connections. The only thing Aluminum are the pieces that go from the front outriggers to the main body. I could see how swapping those out may save a little weight, but looking at some of the videos of people running these boats with 0.10 to 0.12 size engines I think I will have a beast on my hand that may welcome a little extra weight with a 0.15 engine!
#9
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
Here's the thread that he is typing about: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9026180/tm.htm .
If you notice especially if you're a NASCAR fan, Martin Truex Jr. is one of the people involved in the R&D of that kit.
I've got 2 reserved for when they get them ready to ship. The kits come with fiberglass booms but I'll probably swap them out for carbon fiber rods instead.
If you look at the thread, I put a link in there that has a nice rudder from Joe Solinger that might be what you need for your Rascal.
If you notice especially if you're a NASCAR fan, Martin Truex Jr. is one of the people involved in the R&D of that kit.
I've got 2 reserved for when they get them ready to ship. The kits come with fiberglass booms but I'll probably swap them out for carbon fiber rods instead.
If you look at the thread, I put a link in there that has a nice rudder from Joe Solinger that might be what you need for your Rascal.
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
ORIGINAL: Gloryhound
What do you mean Carbon tubes instead of aluminum? I have some water tubes that are brass and some brass for fuel tank connections. The only thing Aluminum are the pieces that go from the front outriggers to the main body. I could see how swapping those out may save a little weight, but looking at some of the videos of people running these boats with 0.10 to 0.12 size engines I think I will have a beast on my hand that may welcome a little extra weight with a 0.15 engine!
What do you mean Carbon tubes instead of aluminum? I have some water tubes that are brass and some brass for fuel tank connections. The only thing Aluminum are the pieces that go from the front outriggers to the main body. I could see how swapping those out may save a little weight, but looking at some of the videos of people running these boats with 0.10 to 0.12 size engines I think I will have a beast on my hand that may welcome a little extra weight with a 0.15 engine!
I would not mount the stuffing tube the way it is in the instructions. It is set up to be hard mounted in a wooden enclosure. I would set it up like modern boats with an adjustable strut on the back of the boat. If you are looking for a cheap one, you might be able to pick up the strut made for the Miss Vegas at a decent price.
The carbon tubes he was talking about are for the front sponsons. They would go through the hull, and run from the left to the right sponson. The kit used to come with two aluminum L-brackets to bolt the sponsons to the tub, I take it this has not changed.
If you go with an air cooled engine, you don't need the brass cooling tube that runs along the top edge of the radio box. Of course I guess it would be better to intall it during the build, and not use it, than to not install it and decide you need it later on.
I put a .12 CVR buggy engine in mine...it does pretty good. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bftsi4EQFdA The Nova Rossi guy (Glenn Quarles) has some new timed .12 marine engine, bet one of those would really make the boat fly. If you use the .15 engine in it, and ever decided to race, you would have to run with the .21 boats (b-hydro). Not that A-hydro is a popular class anyhow...but if it is in your area, then if you stick with a .12 you can run with the smaller boats in that class.
The kit is VERY old though...and I don't think dumas has ever upgraded it. The wood that comes with it is also not the best quality (at least mine wasnt...again, not sure if they changed anything over the last 25 years). Point being, if you are using the wood in the kit, make sure you seal it well.
The turn fin that used to come with the kit was a short straight piece of metal. If you try to make more than a minor left adjustment, the boat will try to flip on you if you use this turn fin. Again, the part from the Miss Vegas might be a place to start, and you might be able to pick one up for free, since a lot of folks with the MV buy an after market (Grim Fin) to use in its place.
Sean
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RE: Li'l Rascal building
One of the guys in our club races a lil Tascal w/a .12 motor in our A hydro class. The boat isnt the fastest in our club but almost always finishes (often when most of the others dont) so he does well in points.
One comment though.... at full speed it rocks/bounces from the left sponson to the right over and over and is pretty unstable. I'm guessing that is why is one of the reasons why one of the guys above replaced the aluminum that mounts that sponson to the tub with carbon fiber tube - so he could make the spacing between the tub and sponsons wider to give it a more stable stance. Widening the lil Rascal's stance would be a good improvement from what I've seen.
One comment though.... at full speed it rocks/bounces from the left sponson to the right over and over and is pretty unstable. I'm guessing that is why is one of the reasons why one of the guys above replaced the aluminum that mounts that sponson to the tub with carbon fiber tube - so he could make the spacing between the tub and sponsons wider to give it a more stable stance. Widening the lil Rascal's stance would be a good improvement from what I've seen.