ArcticCatRider

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Hey guys!

I managed to acquire a new old stock Dumas Deep Vee .60 kit!! The thing has to be at least 20 years old or better.

I've got a brand new Picco .65 sitting on the shelf that's going to go into this boat.

Anybody on here built one of these guys? Any advice?? Also...any suggestions on a running hardware kit??

Any help is appreciated!

-Dan

crispyspa

No idea on what you need, but, Congratulations on the find. Snap a few pictures would ya'

FlogginHarvey

HEY! Cool boat! Is it the 55" or the 40"??? I have a 55" (38KV) that I converted to gas it was an old mess and not in the best of shape when I bought it and JUST found a NIB 55" 38KV that my wife wanteed me to make her a Gas boat...will be starting that boat later in the year for the wifey...

Most of the gas guys are now going with the surface drive and rudder standoff...hop into the Gas Boats Forum section and search for dumas Scarab 38KV and a couple builds with pix and vid will pop up...might not be exact but may give some ideas to get started.

The old dumas running gear is a little dated and not the best in quality now originally a subsurface with a high lift hull design. I am not a great Nitro source but the guys running them with gas use 1/4" flex and a few different brands of hardware. My personal favorite is SpeedMaster hardware and you can go the strut route or a Gas Stinger and tabs.

If it is the 38KV, send me a note, I have PDF copies of the old, original build plans and I will be happy to shoot them over. PS, I have a pair of Nitro tabs and a full Nitro Engine Mount that is sitting in a box.

I also have a speedMaster Strut NIP (1/4" flex might be too big???), SpeedMaster 200SPD Trim Tabs NIP...you will need a Rudder, and turn fin(s) as well I am sure you know.

CMDi was a HUGE help for me on an old Prather Commander with a Rossi 90 my dad and i started WAY back in the 80's...all it needs now is paint! I am NO good at paint! LOL

Pop me a line. tprice AT villagemarina DOT com

joe2011

i had one a long time ago . i had a 60 it moved out that in it . had octra models hard wear on it . take your time with it dumas wood is poor and will split easy i have many dumas boats

unclecrash

I have a deep v 60 with an ops .67 in it. I just changed it over to surface drive. It made a huge difference in handling. Also set the motor as low as I possibly could. I made it so the pipe is hidden under the back hatch. By using 2 radio boxes on each side. I will see if I can get some pics of it for you. The engine I just put in is a dual plug fully modded. Im curios to see how it will do. It was screaming with the old ops.67 and was blowing over until I went surface drive and added a pair of trim tabs.

advanced builder

Hello Dan ,
A easy build, Use a good grade of 1/4" air craftply or birch ply on the transom .Dump the old school hardwood motor mounts.Speedmaster offers a low mount for DeepVs. Areomarine has a great auto bailer Keep center of gravity low. I epoxy blocks of Styrofoam & sand to fit (UP IN BOW) BEFORE epoxying down the bottom of the hull, helps to hold down outer skin during gluing. Some old school builders still like to use SIG resin to build as to 30 min epoxy,no nitro stain & seepage out the bottom of the hull.

ArcticCatRider

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks everyone for the input...

How does a surface drive work?? I've only had experience with a flex drive, and a strut...pretty regular set up.

Is there somewhere I can look at a surface drive, and does the construction of the boat need to be changed up??

Thanks again guys...I do appreciate it.

unclecrash

A surface drive runs right out the transom of the boat. Use a flex shaft and the brass tubes like a subsurface and a strut or stinger . Yes you need to change it up. It wasnt hard to do. I just dremeled out a trough down the wide laminations of wood and bent the brass a bit to line up with the motor and exit hole I drilled out the transom and cut up abunch of glass and mix with epoxy and pack it in around the stuffing tube. At ther rear I just filled the area with silicone. The hole in the transom I elongated it so I can move it a bit up in down in the silicone for adjustment.

ArcticCatRider

My Feedback: (6)

Interesting...I can do this fairly easily I'm guessing since I have yet to build the boat.

So is the shaft going to come out basically at the lowest point on the transom? At the bottom of the vee?

I'm picturing the prop would be just below the surface....this is correct? Does it have a tendency to cavitate??

Thanks for the explanations..

advanced builder

ArcticCatRider,Hope you have a truck to carry that boat around Short & sweet , back seat of a car

FlogginHarvey

A surface drive is used to refer WHERE the prop shaft is in relation to the keel. A trut and a stinger drive are diffreent types of surface drive hardware. The hole for the the shaft is usually around 3/8" to 1/2" above the keel on the center line of the transom fotr boats using a 1/4" flex shaft setup (big notros and gas motors).

Here is a picture of a SpeedMaster Stinger (1/4" flex shaft) on my Rico. I believe they make different sizes for shaft applications. The shaft s i use on this are either Aeromarine or Hughey shafts with the stub shaft welded on to the flex. They are different than the strut shaft setup where you need to use a stub shaft, ferrule up in front of the strut, and then the flex shaft...BUT PLEASE use a shaft saver up by the motor if you chose to use the stinger style drive. If the collett loosens up it will keep your shaft/prop from sliding out and sinking do the bottom of Davie Jones' Locker...

ArcticCatRider

My Feedback: (6)

FlogginHarvey I appreciate the input.

This boat I have is not the 55"or the 40"....it is a 38." The hull is all wood.

I'm not sure whether or not I should do a surface drive, or if I should build it to spec. I also need to source trim tabs, a rudder and some kind of a strut....

Should I set this boat up with the rudder centered or set it up as a left turn only?

advanced builder

Do you plan on racing competition or just hang out with a fast boat . I like the ability to turn left. What I like about wood is you can cover up a hole with a wood dowel sand down & repaint. How far along are you ? Here I added stryo then 1/32 ply. epoxy all in, flotation

FlogginHarvey

Good morning!

Oops, my bad...flog me now I should stick to the gas forum I saw Dumas Scarab and got pumped up. I would think the 3/16 drive setup would be the way to go on that baby but who knows. Speedmaster got there start in Nitro stuff WAY back and they still make the smaller-sized parts (Stingers, Tabs, Etc)... Where we use two 1 1/2" tabs per side on the biggers tuff could you not just use a single tabe per side on the smaller boats?

http://www.rossisales.com/

http://www.cmdracing.com/updated/main.htm

post some pix of the build to show your progress...I will stop chiming in from the peanut gallery

miniature_business

I've got an OS 46 MAX in a Deep Vee 40 and I am very impressed. I got it up to 45mph at 3/4 throttle.... Then it bit it... But yeah Picco 65 should do just fine. I'm running a submerged flex shaft and it can be a bit unpredictable on dead flat water. I have found you really gotta find your perfect water to get her really dialed in.

advanced builder

Love them trim tabs FlogginHarvey, are they Speedmaster? My old wood hull is 12-15 years old. I just got rid of that old hardwood motor mount ,Speedmaster is top shelf.

miniature_business

Has any body ever made a canopy for the engine bay for any of the deep vee series boats?

ArcticCatRider

My Feedback: (6)

Advanced Builder,

I have not begun yet. I am finishing up an airplane first...I hope to get into this one by the beginning of next month. Just trying to get some ideas...
I still have to buy hardware for it, and an engine mount.


Miniature Business, I am still debating whether or not to use submerged flex shaft or a surface drive....when you say "bit it" ..did you flip it, or throw a rod??!

unclecrash

[quote]ORIGINAL: miniature_business

Has any body ever made a canopy for the engine bay for any of the deep vee series boats?
[/quote

Never thought about putting a canopy on mine but I did put th pipe under the back deck and used zeuss fasteners to hold it down. here is a couple pics of the boat with the old setup and engine.

unclecrash

From the reading Ive done on this boat it had a tendecy of flipping at high speeds. The tabs and surface drive seem to help. Will do more tunning soon. I need to get a stinger or a longer strut on it.Along with a longer standoff on the rudder. The engine I just put in it is a lot faster than the red head. I will post a few pics of the changes later. The engine is suposed to be a full modded engine and Im having trouble keeping the carb on this one also . So I built and tapped a couple brackets to help keep it in place.

unclecrash

Here is a couple pics with the dual plug engine and surface drive. I also lowered the rudder a bit. The boat likes to lay way up on the side in a hard turn and coming off a wave it would spin out or lose grip of the rudder. This helped along with a turn fin I placed on the right side. It still lays way over on the side but isnt loosing grip of the water. Like I said i am still working on getting it dialed in. If I was to build it again I would leave out the large engine mount blocks put in a couple of rails and probably leave the rear deck off and cut most of the former out where the exhaust passes through. If you go subsurface you will need a 12in long drill bit to drill for the stuffing tube. Where the surface drive you can either leave out a couple laminations or do as I did and hog it out with a dremel. Which I think left a bit of meat on the bottom for strength.

timjz

My Feedback: (1)

Here's my fiberglass Dumas DV-40 that I built about 15 years ago, still have it & will never get rid of it. I bought it directly from Dumas as it was already discontinued then! I still have the receipt for the boat, paid $80 for the boat & $3 to ship! Those were the days.

It has a K&B 3.5 outboard that always runs good & tops out at 26 mph on GPS, so it doesn't get to wild. Perfect boat to learn on.

advanced builder

There is Dumas glass hull on e-bay . I thing it was a 40

rcdude-K

I have a NIB skarab 38 kv ( 55 inch). I bought it back in the late 80's. Never got around to building it. These days I keep toying with the idea of building it with a ressurected weedeater but I don't know if it will be worth it for the low relative speed it will achieve. Whats gonna be the average cost of all the other running gear. I am thinking of surface drive as if funds ever come available to upgrade the motor, at least the better hardware will be there. Any advice from the experienced builder's out there.

FlogginHarvey

Sorry, been a while since I plunked around on the Nitro side...Yes, they are the Speedmaster Billet Tabs they offer on teh Gas side of things. I still have the Octura (I think) .67 Nitro mount and octura trim tabs that were in the Scarab above when I picked it up. If you pay shipping I will send it to you no charge...they re just sitting in a box taking up space. Shoot me a PM or e-mailis even better.

I am fairly certian that SpeedMaster offers a Stinger just like the 1/4" one on the gas Rico (all white boat above) in 3/16" size for Nitor and electric. Rossi Sales is a great company and their stuff has been around forever with updates of course. Call them and you will get a bit quicker response. Good stuff.