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Central NEW YORK boaters

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Old 03-08-2012, 10:01 AM
  #1476
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I have a Golden Rod in my Browning safe. It is a small heater that is always on. The inside temperature of the safe is always warmer than the outside, so the moisture is pushed out. Seems to work good if you have an electrical outlet in your safe.

Thanks for the gas info guys!

I hear you on the ethanol. Prop Circles gave me a list a while back. I think he got it off of a website.

So what octane do you guys run? And what oil and percentage?

BTW, I'll be running some of John Otto's 50% Technology Fuel this year in the nitro boats. I didn't make it to Dan's early enough to have them order a case of Grimracer 50%.
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:15 AM
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I love it when you gun guys talk dirty!! Craig, I typically use 87 octane and 8oz/gal synthetic oil in my Zens...Whatver 'premium', 93+ octane, I can find and 10oz/gal synthetic oil in my OD's. I bought a gallon of Morgan's 'Blue' synthetic karting oil from American Power Sports when they had it on sale for $26. Oil is a real preference thing. Some guys swear by Honda HP2 (like $10 a pint)...I think Bill likes Maxima. I've also used AmsOil which seemed to burn pretty clean. Roger
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: engineman351

I love it when you gun guys talk dirty!! Craig, I typically use 87 octane and 8oz/gal synthetic oil in my Zens...Whatver 'premium', 93+ octane, I can find and 10oz/gal synthetic oil in my OD's. I bought a gallon of Morgan's 'Blue' synthetic karting oil from American Power Sports when they had it on sale for $26. Oil is a real preference thing. Some guys swear by Honda HP2 (like $10 a pint)...I think Bill likes Maxima. I've also used AmsOil which seemed to burn pretty clean. Roger
Yes I use Maxima K2 @ 8oz per gallon. One pint makes two gallons. I also use Marine Stabil to help prevent deterioration of fuel quality. HP2 and Klotz are good but IMO build up too much carbon. The K2 burns very clean. Carbon can cause detonation. Plugs (CMR7H only) are set at .025. Keep asking questions as it can save you a lot of grief later on. One of the most common failures on these engines are pump diaphragms so keep a small supply. Another tip: if you dunked an engine always change the plug. Gizmo was selling plugs at $2.85. I think NAPA is another good source.
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Old 03-08-2012, 01:47 PM
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Roger
No PM on here or email
Some one's computer isnt working properly
Had that happen before
Try email at tdriver1@rochester.rr.com .

Thanks Tom
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:29 PM
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If I was to use a 16 oz Sullivan tank, would the included brass tubing be the correct diameter for the fuel lines? I do know that I will need to buy a gas stopper kit.

Thanks.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:21 PM
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Craig, I've used the standard tube supplied with the tanks (1/8th I think) as well as up one size to 5/32nds...didn't make any difference on my stuff. I think it is more important to get tygon fuel line that fits the tubing snugly. RC
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:48 AM
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ORIGINAL: engineman351

Craig, I've used the standard tube supplied with the tanks (1/8th I think) as well as up one size to 5/32nds...didn't make any difference on my stuff. I think it is more important to get tygon fuel line that fits the tubing snugly. RC
I'm going to Dan's today. What size Tygon fuel line should I ask for? Thanks.

Getting warm next week guys....
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:05 AM
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Craig, I would get what is labeled 'standard' or 'medium'. The 'large' size is too loose on the brass tube. Roger
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:09 AM
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Folks,
I haven't posted this yet. Pete received approval from the Elmira folks that our start time will be moved to 9:30 instead of 10:00. This will allow us to run at least 3 more heats. We have to do what we have to do to satisfy noise curfews.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:15 AM
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ORIGINAL: Billk44

Folks,
I haven't posted this yet. Pete received approval from the Elmira folks that our start time will be moved to 9:30 instead of 10:00. This will allow us to run at least 3 more heats. We have to do what we have to do to satisfy noise curfews.
That's good news for sure! Every little bit helps.

Roger, thanks for the info. I'll pick up some medium Tygon fuel line.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:27 AM
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Craig I got a holiday deal ,I have plenty of fuel line,so don't buy.
Also we got a insurance form from the IMPBA so we are on the books.. Stony Pond RC boating club is looking for members. We will be looking for dues. As Craig has put alot of his own money into the stand ,buoys, excavator and so on.
PS The one's that have contributed already will NOT be asked to pay this year.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:23 AM
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ORIGINAL: advanced builder

Craig I got a holiday deal ,I have plenty of fuel line,so don't buy.
Also we got a insurance form from the IMPBA so we are on the books.. Stony Pond RC boating club is looking for members. We will be looking for dues. As Craig has put alot of his own money into the stand ,buoys, excavator and so on.
PS The one's that have contributed already will NOT be asked to pay this year.
Hey Guys,
I'm interested in joining.
Tom
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: advanced builder

Craig I got a holiday deal ,I have plenty of fuel line,so don't buy.
Also we got a insurance form from the IMPBA so we are on the books.. Stony Pond RC boating club is looking for members. We will be looking for dues. As Craig has put alot of his own money into the stand ,buoys, excavator and so on.
PS The one's that have contributed already will NOT be asked to pay this year.
Yes, membership dues will be $35 per year and $10 per year for any family members. There are a couple people that have already donated and they will be exempt for this year. Also, you will need to be an IMPBA member.


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Old 03-09-2012, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: tomstoys2


Quote:
ORIGINAL: advanced builder

Craig I got a holiday deal ,I have plenty of fuel line,so don't buy.
Also we got a insurance form from the IMPBA so we are on the books.. Stony Pond RC boating club is looking for members. We will be looking for dues. As Craig has put alot of his own money into the stand ,buoys, excavator and so on.
PS The one's that have contributed already will NOT be asked to pay this year.
Hey Guys,
I'm interested in joining.
Tom
Neil is the Secretary/Treasurer, so he will accept money. Thanks.

I'd like for us to vote on what we can use the money for this spring. Something that we can add to the site to make it better. Two ideas I have so far is a culvert pipe over the stream so that we can get our cars closer to the pond. Another option would be to start working on a permanent shelter next to the driver's stand. Any other ideas?



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Old 03-09-2012, 11:12 AM
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Yes we need a air-condition club house ,Heated too tomstoys2 you are welcome to join, glad to have you
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:51 AM
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Yes we need a air-condition club house ,Heated too tomstoys2 you are welcome to join, glad to have you
Yes, the shelter would proabably be built with walls, so that we have some place to go that is truly out of the weather, including wind. We would have to think about the design a little.

I have mostly ruled out a permanent top on the driver's stand. I would be worried about the high winds. There would be some large forces at the ground with the top being 18 feet in the air. As some of you know, the winds can get crazy.

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Old 03-09-2012, 03:01 PM
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Neil
PM me your address and I will mail you a check forthe dues.

Thanks Tom & Cindy
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:47 AM
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PM sent Tom & Cindy ,How's that .12 rigger coming along ? What did you decide on a engine ?
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:44 PM
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Neil
I bought a package deal on I/W(5port N/R with header, collet & Glen Quarles pipe).
Still working on radio box. Battery problem fixed thanks to Roger.

Tom
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:05 PM
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Them little engines sure are fun to run. It was hard getting her started that first few times. But broke in fast. Looks like a fun summer ahead. 4oz of fun. The .21 rigger is serious fun. the .45 rigger we'll see this Spring. [>:][>:]
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Old 03-12-2012, 05:40 AM
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Hey guys, I ran into an issue with my motor mount on the Dragonfly. The mount is one single plate that the motor sits in. The old motor had a carb up high so it didn't hit this. The new motor is a K&B w/ a barrel carb that sticks way out the front. I was going to cut the section of the mount out to allow the carb to fit however my motor mount would be two separate pieces. Can I mount a .45 with a two piece motor mount or should I look at milling it instead of just removing all the material that is in the way to retain rigidity? 

The mount mounts into the boat by four 1/4"-20 bolts that are preexisting. It drops down over them and I'll just tighten them down with lock nuts. 

Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:06 AM
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ORIGINAL: HeliDrop

Hey guys, I ran into an issue with my motor mount on the Dragonfly. The mount is one single plate that the motor sits in. The old motor had a carb up high so it didn't hit this. The new motor is a K&B w/ a barrel carb that sticks way out the front. I was going to cut the section of the mount out to allow the carb to fit however my motor mount would be two separate pieces. Can I mount a .45 with a two piece motor mount or should I look at milling it instead of just removing all the material that is in the way to retain rigidity?

The mount mounts into the boat by four 1/4''-20 bolts that are preexisting. It drops down over them and I'll just tighten them down with lock nuts.

Thanks!
Two piece mounts are common now, but not sure if the K&B case would handle the extra stresses. Hopefully one of the old timers will chime in.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:13 AM
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A few gas questions.

Do I lube the o-rings that go in the water cooled header flange? If yes, with what?

When tightening the flex shaft collet bolt do I need to tighten real hard? Is there ever problems with the collet loosening?

The header flange does not match the exhaust port on the K30S. Should I bevel the header so that it better matches the engine exhaust outlet?

Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: Blackout

A few gas questions.

Do I lube the o-rings that go in the water cooled header flange? If yes, with what?

When tightening the flex shaft collet bolt do I need to tighten real hard? Is there ever problems with the collet loosening?

The header flange does not match the exhaust port on the K30S. Should I bevel the header so that it better matches the engine exhaust outlet?

Thanks.
I just use a light oil or grease so the header can move in the o-rings.

Tighten the collet reasonable tight. They do loosen due to vibration and check it before every heat. It is recommended you use a shaft saver in the event the collet loosen. Saves you from loosing $100+ items to the the lake gods.

Port matching always helps but it is not necessary. No more than 1/2" of header should protrude into the pipe for best performance.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:18 AM
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Amen on the shaft saver!! Even a Du-Bro 1/4 collar with a set screw is better than nada. I usually just spray the o-rings with WD-40 before I slide the pipe over the header. Roger
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