After Run Oil
#51
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RE: After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: Hydro Junkie
It's your health, not mine. As far as I'm concerned, that's what GoJo, Lava and other pumice hand cleaners are for
It's your health, not mine. As far as I'm concerned, that's what GoJo, Lava and other pumice hand cleaners are for
#52
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RE: After Run Oil
LOL,, working on cars most my life and in a body shop half my life the little bit of anything I would get from some ATF on my hands would be minor compared to the toxic crap floating around some of the Old Body Shops I've worked in,, You know Worrying about What Can Kill You all the time Can Kill You To,, Stress Kills,,
#53
RE: After Run Oil
That's really funny JW, that you can tell me what chemicals I use in MY JOB even though you probably have never worked in MY JOB. When I worked for Sears, I worked both laundry and lawn and garden. I never used any chemicals working on laundry equipment. The closest to a chemical I encountered was laundry soap and/or fabric softener the customer's used. In fact, I didn't even carry chemicals except those I was supposed to sell to the customers. When working lawn and garden, the only chemicals I used were motor oil and DW-40, neither of which ever got on my hands as I'm that good. Three things my vans never moved without were a jug of hand cleaner, at least one roll of paper towels and an overstuffed first aid kit. BTW, where would you use brake cleaner on a garden tractor? They don't have servicable brakes as the braking mechanism is inside the belt driven transaxle. If there was an internal problem, the transaxle was replaced and the defective unit was sent back to the factory.
Amax, that's why I don't worry about it. I just don't put myself into a position where I have to worry about it. Just like swimming after a boat, if you don't do it you won't have to worry about the chance of drowning
Amax, that's why I don't worry about it. I just don't put myself into a position where I have to worry about it. Just like swimming after a boat, if you don't do it you won't have to worry about the chance of drowning
#55
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RE: After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: Hydro Junkie
That's really funny JW, that you can tell me what chemicals I use in MY JOB even though you probably have never worked in MY JOB. When I worked for Sears, I worked both laundry and lawn and garden. I never used any chemicals working on laundry equipment. The closest to a chemical I encountered was laundry soap and/or fabric softener the customer's used. In fact, I didn't even carry chemicals except those I was supposed to sell to the customers. When working lawn and garden, the only chemicals I used were motor oil and DW-40, neither of which ever got on my hands as I'm that good. Three things my vans never moved without were a jug of hand cleaner, at least one roll of paper towels and an overstuffed first aid kit. BTW, where would you use brake cleaner on a garden tractor? They don't have servicable brakes as the braking mechanism is inside the belt driven transaxle. If there was an internal problem, the transaxle was replaced and the defective unit was sent back to the factory.
Amax, that's why I don't worry about it. I just don't put myself into a position where I have to worry about it. Just like swimming after a boat, if you don't do it you won't have to worry about the chance of drowning
That's really funny JW, that you can tell me what chemicals I use in MY JOB even though you probably have never worked in MY JOB. When I worked for Sears, I worked both laundry and lawn and garden. I never used any chemicals working on laundry equipment. The closest to a chemical I encountered was laundry soap and/or fabric softener the customer's used. In fact, I didn't even carry chemicals except those I was supposed to sell to the customers. When working lawn and garden, the only chemicals I used were motor oil and DW-40, neither of which ever got on my hands as I'm that good. Three things my vans never moved without were a jug of hand cleaner, at least one roll of paper towels and an overstuffed first aid kit. BTW, where would you use brake cleaner on a garden tractor? They don't have servicable brakes as the braking mechanism is inside the belt driven transaxle. If there was an internal problem, the transaxle was replaced and the defective unit was sent back to the factory.
Amax, that's why I don't worry about it. I just don't put myself into a position where I have to worry about it. Just like swimming after a boat, if you don't do it you won't have to worry about the chance of drowning
#56
RE: After Run Oil
JW, calling me a pansy, or variations there of, isn't winning your case. It's a know fact that petroleum distilates are absorbed through the skin and are not filtered out, unlike alcohol. Since you think it's safe to wash with ATF, be my guest. After working on jetliners and having to breath jet fuel(benzene) fumes working in fuel tanks and dealing with the resulting mutiday headaches as well as getting second degree burns from Skydrol(a flame resistant aircraft hydraulc fluid that the manufacturer claims will not hurt you), I can't see the reason to take a chance with ATF, gas or any other specialty fluid when there are appropriate products that do the job better and safer.
#57
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RE: After Run Oil
HJ you blow to many things out in proportion, But you do that all the time as is. I said if your in a jam /pinch and you don't have GoJo or Lava. Use ATF to get the heavy grease off then use bar soap to wash off your hands. Us body guys work with more cemicials then you ever dreamed of. We got a more harzardious job then you do. So quit being such a pansy boy as aways and get back to the subject about after run oils! ATF is a great after run oil.. I know a racer that used ATF in his CMB .67 for 8 years before he had to do builds on his engines. Thats tells you somthing.
#59
RE: After Run Oil
Most of the guys in our boat club use WD-40 to flush out water if the motor was submerged and ATF for after run.
Not just a few drops though most guys will connect a bottle to the carb and completely flood it while turning over the motor.
I've been using Corrosion X for after run the last couple years and it seems to work pretty well also.
Not just a few drops though most guys will connect a bottle to the carb and completely flood it while turning over the motor.
I've been using Corrosion X for after run the last couple years and it seems to work pretty well also.
#60
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RE: After Run Oil
I am back for those that remember me....HJ??? The wife had to go and get pregnant twice and gave me two boys.[sm=thumbup.gif] Been busy with no time for my models over the past five years. But now it's time to bust them out & show my boys what dad used to do going back 25 years.
Now to the topic......I have used MMO forever, and knowing that I was going to be storing
my engines for some time I prepped them this way.........Filled them up with MMO, blocked the carb intakes up with a little cotton, then sprayed the outsides down with Boesheild T9 and wrapped them with breathable material bags to keep dust and junk off.
Now for those that use Corrion X, T9 is similiar but dries to a non-tacky coat preventing sticky junk. I use this stuff on my fishing reels, and my outboards on my fishing boats. It was designed by Boeing for aircraft & is the bomb!
I would not use WD-40 for storing! If I had living here in Florida with the heat & high humidity my engines would most likely be a mess, or toast today five years later. But hence I pulled them out of the attic and the engines look like the day I packed them up & are not siezed or junked up.
I will tear them down somewhat anyway and clean them up before starting them again. But I have no worries in the world that they will not start and run like the they did before storing. My .02
BTW> What color is ATF? What color is MMO? Makes you wonder!
Now to the topic......I have used MMO forever, and knowing that I was going to be storing
my engines for some time I prepped them this way.........Filled them up with MMO, blocked the carb intakes up with a little cotton, then sprayed the outsides down with Boesheild T9 and wrapped them with breathable material bags to keep dust and junk off.
Now for those that use Corrion X, T9 is similiar but dries to a non-tacky coat preventing sticky junk. I use this stuff on my fishing reels, and my outboards on my fishing boats. It was designed by Boeing for aircraft & is the bomb!
I would not use WD-40 for storing! If I had living here in Florida with the heat & high humidity my engines would most likely be a mess, or toast today five years later. But hence I pulled them out of the attic and the engines look like the day I packed them up & are not siezed or junked up.
I will tear them down somewhat anyway and clean them up before starting them again. But I have no worries in the world that they will not start and run like the they did before storing. My .02
BTW> What color is ATF? What color is MMO? Makes you wonder!
#61
RE: After Run Oil
Hey Dude, Welcome Back. I see you couldn't live without us
Been a while since I used MMO, but if I remember right, it's the same color as ATF, both are red. I know ATF has a red dye in it to make it identifiable from motor oil in case of leaks. Not sure why MMO is red, beyond just making it more visible
Been a while since I used MMO, but if I remember right, it's the same color as ATF, both are red. I know ATF has a red dye in it to make it identifiable from motor oil in case of leaks. Not sure why MMO is red, beyond just making it more visible
#62
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RE: After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: avenge
Whats the best after run oil ?? I get different mixtures from everyone, Which is the best ??[sm=72_72.gif]
Whats the best after run oil ?? I get different mixtures from everyone, Which is the best ??[sm=72_72.gif]
If you ask who's the best singer your gonna get a lot of different opinions, if you ask who makes the best car your gonna get a lot of different opinions.......If you get on the RC boat forums and ask whats the best after run oil your gonna get 3+ pages and counting of different opinions.
and possibly another cat fight....
My two cents are to read the instruction manual that came with your engine and follow the manufacturers advice pertaining to after run maintenance. My personal observation over the past 20 years was most guys were using marvel mystery oil or Trans fluid.
I would not advise using WD-40 on anything thats not already rusted or stuck......
#63
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RE: After Run Oil
personally, i know people that dont use any after run oil, however, i use trans fluid.
now theres several different types of trans fluid, and a bit of advice is to stay away from type "F"
type "F" refers to a special detergent that is added to the fluid, the detergents imo, are not nessicary for the motor.
however, sometimes with a gummy motor, you can remove the carb, glo plug, and backplate, and soak the motor in the type "F" tranns fluid, and itll clean it up pretty much on its own.
that being said, it seems like theres about thirty different types of the trans fluid, i just stay away from type "F" cause of the detergents, and mercron 5, because its smelly hhahaha.
now theres several different types of trans fluid, and a bit of advice is to stay away from type "F"
type "F" refers to a special detergent that is added to the fluid, the detergents imo, are not nessicary for the motor.
however, sometimes with a gummy motor, you can remove the carb, glo plug, and backplate, and soak the motor in the type "F" tranns fluid, and itll clean it up pretty much on its own.
that being said, it seems like theres about thirty different types of the trans fluid, i just stay away from type "F" cause of the detergents, and mercron 5, because its smelly hhahaha.
#66
RE: After Run Oil
Okay, time for ATF 101
The various types of Dextron(GM recommended) and Mercon(Ford recommended) are pretty much the same. As was already said, all of them have detergents in them. What most don't know is that BOTH Dextron and Mercon are formulated with anti-corrosion agents AND A SLIPPAGE ENHANCER. The slippage enhancer is used to make the clutch plates slip to a degree inside of all modern automatic transmissions to make them shift smoother. By allowing some slipping, the transmissions don't have a jerky feel when changing gears.
Now, lets talk about Type "F". This is a whole different fluid for a whole different kind of transmission. The clutch friction discs in some of the Ford transmissions up into the 1980s had a different friction material that made them slip badly when Dextron or Mercon was used. To prevent the clutch discs from slipping, Type "F" was formulated with a FRICTION ENHANCER, giving a slightly rougher/firmer shift than the Mercon/Dextron models. It still has the detergents, anti-corrosion additives and the red color, so many think there is no difference between the two types of fluid. To use the wrong type of fluid in a transmission can damage a Mercon/Dextron unit by making it grab faster and jaring the inside gears to death or make an "F" unit slip so badly it could become undrivable. Granted, these are worst case senario's, but it can happen if one doesn't pay attension. I'm sure most of you can figure out what COULD happen if an engine is stored with Type "F" fluid[X(]
The various types of Dextron(GM recommended) and Mercon(Ford recommended) are pretty much the same. As was already said, all of them have detergents in them. What most don't know is that BOTH Dextron and Mercon are formulated with anti-corrosion agents AND A SLIPPAGE ENHANCER. The slippage enhancer is used to make the clutch plates slip to a degree inside of all modern automatic transmissions to make them shift smoother. By allowing some slipping, the transmissions don't have a jerky feel when changing gears.
Now, lets talk about Type "F". This is a whole different fluid for a whole different kind of transmission. The clutch friction discs in some of the Ford transmissions up into the 1980s had a different friction material that made them slip badly when Dextron or Mercon was used. To prevent the clutch discs from slipping, Type "F" was formulated with a FRICTION ENHANCER, giving a slightly rougher/firmer shift than the Mercon/Dextron models. It still has the detergents, anti-corrosion additives and the red color, so many think there is no difference between the two types of fluid. To use the wrong type of fluid in a transmission can damage a Mercon/Dextron unit by making it grab faster and jaring the inside gears to death or make an "F" unit slip so badly it could become undrivable. Granted, these are worst case senario's, but it can happen if one doesn't pay attension. I'm sure most of you can figure out what COULD happen if an engine is stored with Type "F" fluid[X(]
#67
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RE: After Run Oil
ORIGINAL: Hydro Junkie
Hey Dude, Welcome Back. I see you couldn't live without us
Been a while since I used MMO, but if I remember right, it's the same color as ATF, both are red. I know ATF has a red dye in it to make it identifiable from motor oil in case of leaks. Not sure why MMO is red, beyond just making it more visible
Hey Dude, Welcome Back. I see you couldn't live without us
Been a while since I used MMO, but if I remember right, it's the same color as ATF, both are red. I know ATF has a red dye in it to make it identifiable from motor oil in case of leaks. Not sure why MMO is red, beyond just making it more visible
BTW....I forgot where & when I was told so long ago that MMO was a form of ATF with some added properties. It smells like its got something petroluem based in there. Maybe that's why it burns out so quickly.
#68
RE: After Run Oil
Here's an excerpt from Marvel's own website:
Marvel Mystery Oil®, boasting an enviable reputation among vehicle owners world-wide, is truly a legend of its own. From an auspicious beginning, it is now recognized as a product that has stood the test of time and continues to provide unsurpassed performance and benefits in motors in the automotive, industrial and marine world.
Burt Pierce founded the Marvel Oil Company in 1923. His reputation for ingenuity preceded him as he was already well-known for inventing the Marvel Carburetor, standard equipment on 80% of all vehicles produced after World War I.
Vehicles of the post WWI era encountered carburetor problems, the most perplexing being clogged jets due to high lead content and other contaminants found in the gasoline of the time. The problem motivated Mr. Pierce to direct his creative ingenuity towards formulating a blend of chemicals and petroleum products to clean and maintain clogged jets. He was successful beyond his wildest expectations and the legend was born!
Marvel Mystery Oil®, boasting an enviable reputation among vehicle owners world-wide, is truly a legend of its own. From an auspicious beginning, it is now recognized as a product that has stood the test of time and continues to provide unsurpassed performance and benefits in motors in the automotive, industrial and marine world.
Burt Pierce founded the Marvel Oil Company in 1923. His reputation for ingenuity preceded him as he was already well-known for inventing the Marvel Carburetor, standard equipment on 80% of all vehicles produced after World War I.
Vehicles of the post WWI era encountered carburetor problems, the most perplexing being clogged jets due to high lead content and other contaminants found in the gasoline of the time. The problem motivated Mr. Pierce to direct his creative ingenuity towards formulating a blend of chemicals and petroleum products to clean and maintain clogged jets. He was successful beyond his wildest expectations and the legend was born!
#69
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RE: After Run Oil
Hey guys, this thread is a little old, but we just had an email discussion with our RC flying group I started at my workplace for info sharing. One guy seems to be very knowlegable and swears by Rislone as the best ARO. He made the comment about testing to see which AROs mix and which don't, as stated in one of the posts. He also said he cleans gummed-up engines with heated ATF in an old crockpot (outside), which he said works great. Personally, I do not like WD-40 and don't use it for anything because when it first came out, it seemed to be great, but I discovered places I un-stuck with WD-40 later became gummed up, with dust and other contaminates sticking to it, making the situation worse. Obviously, this is a controversial and never-ending discussion, but some great suggestions were shared. Now, I am even more confused, but although I inherited the MMO idea from my Dad and still use it, I am leaning now toward the ATF and/or gun oil and/or air tool oil idea, all of which make complete sense. Gun oil is thin and coats and protects my guns, so why not my engines as well? Thanks for the ideas!(?). Jim