Boombadan

Hi everyone, I recently purchased this RC boat last week and it came in the mail yesturday. When I got it, it stunk like cigarettes so I left it outside overnight and cleaned it up(there was lots of dust). I was told the name of this boat is a NitroPantherV-Hull RC Boat. The motor on it looks pretty vintage. When I bought it he told me all I needed to buy was a radio and gas to run it, but my local hobby shop looked it over and I'm looking at another $200 deep into this hobby before the fun starts. The boat itself cost me $172 so I guess thats not too bad, if it came like he said only needing a new radio. Anyways, he told me the boat will do about 30mph and my hobby shop told me around 50, either way I'm stoked! I need to get 33% nitro gas to run it(he said it would cost me $40-50), and for the radio my hobby shop said the cheapest one he has is $80 but I think thier are cheaper ones online right(maybe someone can find me one)? Everything shown in the pictures is what he shipped me. There was a rudder on the propellor shaft but that was either broke in shipping or he just threw it in the box, my LHS told me not to worry about it though. The stand shown in the picture is one I just made for the boat. It's waiting on another fitting that I need to get to finish it though. I would like to make a better radio box, as the tubaware doesn't lookappealing to me. Should I even bother to make a new box though? Any input is appreciated, I am totally new to this hobby! Thanks

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Lotza luck, you're gonna need it!
The skeg is broken off from the lower unit so it isn't going to turn very well. The 16 oz. tank is really big as it only really needs about half of that but I'm thinking that you might need to fill it anyway to help keep the bow down.
Shop for fuel elsewhere as that's a lot of money for 33% that isn't made for boats. I suspect that he's trying to unload some Traxxas fuel on you which even they don't recommend for boats.
In all honesty, the builder did a half-assed job of putting it together.

Blackout

Having no skeg on the motor is going to be a problem. You may have fuel draw issues with the tank low in the hull. It is best to have the carb at the same level as the tank or the tank just below the carb. I would build a wood radio box and move it farther foward. Then mount the tank closer to the engine and as high as possible. 8 ounces would be plenty, that is a .21 k&b (3.5), correct? Take a look at the linkage setups used on outboard tunnel hulls.

You may want to make sure the engine runs before spending any more money. Airplane fuel is better than car fuel for boats. You want atleast 17% oil. 25% nitro is fine. I use Omega airplane fuel in my boats.

Outboard deep-vees are generally not great performers. An inboard deep-vee will carve coners with greater speeds.

I would contact the seller and insist some money back for the broken skegg. Assuming it was not from shipping...

Boombadan

I contacted him, he said it was broken in shipping and it was shipped UPS. Who should I contact about that then? When the boat was checked out he said the motor looked in running condition but yes it looks like he did a cheap job building it, aswell as leaving it on a shelf for god knows how long. You'd think he'd clean it up for me before he sent it too? Oh well

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

That means that the skeg is in the box then right? Contact UPS but have fun there. I learned that if you're home when you have a purchase where the box is damaged or you just want to check it first, let the delivery person wait while you open it. They may not like it but too bad for them. The boat was improperly boxed up as the engine should have been removed and wrapped. I do that with any boat that I've sold. With inboards I'll remove the strut and rudder.

amax

If he didn't purchase the Insurance from UPS your Outa Luck there, and if he did UPS will claim it was packeged wrong. If you paid with paypal and he won't give a refund,, file a dispute through paypal.

joseywales

To me you kind of gotten takend on that deal. I don't know why some guys put outboards on V's, rigger's and hydro's for? Outboards belong on tunnel hulls hydro's. Like Ron said 33% is traxxas racing fuel's. Hobbshops charges 30.00 for agallon of it. We used to run it. Was buying it by the quarts. Had to add 2oz of castor oil to compercate for low oil content.

Boombadan

I claimed for my full $100 back through UPS. The boat came to me intact in one peice, the motor was not removed. I found the skegg at the bottom of the box. He could have just broke itand threw it in the box though, then got insurance tocover the issue if I said anything.The gas tank is not even anchored down in the boat, so I doubt the previous owner ever even ran it. If I can't get the claim through UPS I'm going to issue for a return or refund.

Blackout

Years ago, many manufactures marketed their deep-vees for use with a outboard or inboard. Prather was one of them. This is why you see old deep-vees with outboards.

advanced builder

I though that was a Prather hull. too Craig good all-around hull ,in her day 70dies style
Hay you have the red carb,a good one for the K&B

Blackout

Yup, the Prather deep-vees are nice looking boats. They actually look like a real boat. The hulls should be light as they are laid up with no gel coat. But, you have to worry about pin-holes when painting.

This boat has potential if the engine runs and the skeg can be fixed. It won't be real fast, but will surely do 30 mph or more.

kgibson4

My Feedback: (4)

If you do end up having to keep this boat, there are options for dealing with the broken skeg. Replacing the lower unit is one, but I think parts are hard to find and expensive. Here's another, that the outboard hydro guys used do as a modification:

Boombadan

I'll look into that modification, I don't think I'll be returning this boat to the seller because he doesn't accept returns. Hopefully UPS will reemburst me some money anyhow though. I broke the gas tank that came with the boat trying to figure out which hose was which but I'll just pick up another one at the LHS, everyone said this one was too big anyhow. I was told there was fuel proof paint on the boat too.

JLBJR

 I'm also pretty new to this hobby myself, you learn as  you go.  Ask alot of ? about ur plans before you buy parts it may save  you some stress. sounds like you are going to have fun with your  project. I wish i would have found this forum  when i started on mine. The guys on the forum helped me get my boat going(thanks). As far as fuel proof paint i would keep the paint clean and waxed just in case.

joseywales

I would go with the lighter weight lower unit.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Joe, the lighter weight one shown in the shot above is made for K&B OB's with tuned pipes and you don't want to know what those go for nowadays! [X(]

Blackout

I'll throw another option out there. Instead of fixing the skeg, you could just add a steerable rudder on the right side as you would with a I/B deep-vee. You would make the O/B stationary and steer with the rudder.

Your turn fin is mounted incorrectly. It should be mounted so that the fin is 90 degrees to the bottom of the boat. This puts the fin in the water 90 degrees when the boat is banked in a right turn. When the boat is going straight, the fin is pretty much out of the water which reduces drag for faster staight away speeds.

Boombadan

Well I'm going to take a trip to the hobby store tomorrow. I'd really like to make a new radio box but it seems like a big process taking it apart, I'd like to do that over the winter. As for the rudder, I'm not quite understanding your post Blackout but I'm interested in it. As for finding the pvc T fittings to finish my stand, I haven't found time to make a trip to a store. Hopefully tomorrow I can purchase somemore parts to continue my project!

tnltyme

I think you have a great project.  If all you did is remove years of dust,  I would say that hull has very little,  if any,  time on the water.  Can't  say the same about the motor tho.  If I were you,  I would first turn the motor over by hand to see if you have good compression and if it feels smooth.  That is,   if you haven't already.  Even if it feels a little rough,  you can pull the plug and put some after run oil or fogging oil in the cylinder and carb..  Turn it over a few times and repeat until it starts to turn over smoothly.  The oil will lubricate the bearings and free them up from corrosion.  I had a 3.5 K&B that sat for 20 years that had rough bearings.  Used a little oil and they're smooth now.  Runs like a champ.  Bearings may fail eventually,  but I'll deal with it then.

If all is well,  then I would look into replacing the lower unit.  MECOA has a complete assembly with the new style screw in prop shaft for $70.  You'll get the everything you need.  Just bolt it to your motor.  You can just get the lower unit halves for $37 and propshaft assm'bly for $23.  My guess is where the flats on the lower unit and prop shaft assembly meet is completely spun out.  That was common on the earlier models.  One more reason to get the new style. 

The steering setup is fine.  You need to get rid of the fuel line that the throttle cable runs thru and buy the throttle pushrod tube.

B/4 I would start moving radio box around I would find where the balance point is after you get your new fuel tank.  Guys on this forum would have a better idea where that point should be.  I'm a tunnel guy.  Even tho the box looks a little cheesey,  as long as it keeps out water,  use it.  You can change it out later during the long cold winter.

As far as fuel,  all you need is 20% nitro with 18% oil.  Much cheaper and your boat will run just fine.

You can use your current servos with a new radio.  All you may need to do is change the plugins to adapt to a new receiver.  You can buy the plugins cheap.  You can buy radios w/o servos.  You can get a 2.4Ghz 2 channel Futaba transmitter/receiver for around $100.  You would have the capability of running 10 boats on that transmitter.  There are other 2.4s for cheaper too.  Get a glowplug ignitor,  starter, fuel and hit the water.  You'll accumulate odds and ends as you go.  But first get it on the water.  You can tweek it as you go and rework your setup during winter.  Fall is approaching,  get in on the lake and enjoy.  Have fun!!!!!!!!

Boombadan

Thanks a lot, I'll look into getting the new rudder if UPS sends me some cash

Boombadan

http://cgi.ebay.com/PRATHER-MOD-ENGI...item5186b9fe80

Does this kit look like it would save my engine?

rcguy1411

another option is have it welded back on at a local shop itis amasing what a case of beer will get you i have had this done before and has held up fine i dont like the radio box that you have as it will open the first time the boat flips if you are going to use tupawere use the lock and lock ones i have had this same boat back in the 80 s and it was a blast to run

Boombadan

Yeah I have a friend who welds that could probably do it, I didn't think it was big enough to weld

kgibson4

My Feedback: (4)

That kit does more than just replace the skeg. It has and exhaust throttle and a spray bar to eliminate the carburetor. I don't think that is a modification to be taken on by an inexperienced boater.

The skeg would likely work fine if it were sharpened. And you could save the exhaust throttle parts for when you feel you're ready to do some tricky hop-up mods.

That said, it seems like a lot of money to spend just to get a skeg. But that's the cheapskate in me.

Boombadan

Sounds good, I'll buy the kit. I will have the oldtimer at my LHS put on the modifications after the boat is running. Thanks so much for all the input guys, it really is appreciated!

- So far I've purchased that mod kit, new fuel lines(Old ones were shot, prob from the 70s). So around $223 spent on this so far, and I'm still looking at another $200 or so before I get to see her run!

I need:
-Radio
-Battery pack
-Glow plug starter
-Gas tank
-Aswell as some other parts that were shot, probably around $25 worth

Hopefully this thing turns out well and lasts a while!