RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Yes I make upgrade replacements for the vegas, sv27, motley crew and just about anything else you need, they come 100% drop in ready with nothing else to buy, I even pre-grease them.
http://www.aircapitolhobbies.com/Mis...flexshaft.html

Just to let it be known my computer motherboard on my main computer is fried, and my phone 7855058405 is attached to it, you can still call and leave a message and Ill get back to you on my other line as my messages all go through my email account or email me at [email protected] and I can get all that on the wifes computer ( which is slow and wont support everything I do lol) im still easy to get a hold of but wanted to let you guys know if its a slow response time my yahoo is also not running till i come up with a new system..

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

I don't understand where the bearing/bushing is supposed to be. My stub slides directly into the stuffing tube, which slidesinto the hole in the strut.  There is not that much play in the stuffing tube where i could be missing a bearing, unless it's a very small bearing.  As far as i know, the only bearings on this craft are in the engine, right?

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Its the stock plastic prop.  I have a grim prop, the one recommended in the manual on the way that should be here today.  I have the Top flight balancer pictured here...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XHY61&P=ML

but i was unable to get the stock plastic prop to balance on it because it was so light, the magnets attraction to the balance rod stoped it from spinning before the prop would really have any effect on it.  That rod is at least 2-3 times as heavy as the plastic prop.  Now i have not lapped the faces of the magnets yet, so maybe that will help.
Yeah, i figured that was the best way to do it.  And i agree, a tight fit is better than a loose one.

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Here is the video on you tube. You can watch it up to 1080p resolution, though it may take some time to buffer. I was unable to edit the video from work once i loaded it to youtube. Therefor, skip to 1:45 and watch from there, that's where i actually toss the boat into to the water.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpAVsiKFPNg</p>


The boat starts to get slower the longer it's on the water. I'm not sure if it's the cause or not, but i left the drain plug loose from draining the water previously. At any rate, it stalled on the water and my 3 year old and my 2 year old walked around the pond with me where the wind had blown it to shore. I was hitting a lot of pine straw, which was hanging on the rudder and and turn fin.

Like i've said before, the boat is bone stock, i haven't sharpened or sanded anything. I'd really like to get some kind of speedometer/gps before i start making changes, because i'd really like to know how each modification to the model affects speed.

Will any of the radio's with telemetry provide speed data for a boat? My inclination is to say no, since they do speed calculations based on engine RPM, which can not be directly correlated to speed, necessarily, in a boat.
</p>

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

This is a bushing (bearing)
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...P1030329-1.jpg

it slides into the end of the stuffing tube, the collar stops it from going to far into the tube, if you look at the end of your strut the brass part you see in the end of it is the collar of the bushing, IF you didnt have a bushing in the strut you would know it as there would be a lot of play. Hope that helps a little

Might add, the collar of the bushing is approximately the same size as the stuffing tube itself.

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

I guess i need to take a lot closer look at the strut/stuffing tube when i get back home.  I have never seen that part on my boat, at all.  Does that collar go part of the way into the stuffing tube at the strut, or is the full amount of that collar, look sto be 3-5mm, stick out the back of the strut/stuffing tube?

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

approx 3/16 collar and on the vegas If memory serves me right the entire collar is in the strut, as in it sets flush to the strut

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

ok, i'll check it when i get home.  I jsut assumed that the small amount of brass colored tubing i could see on the back side fo the strut was the end of the stuffing tube.  But what you're saying is that the part i can see is actually the bushing? If that's the case i'm pretty sure i've managed to wear it down.  I think i get about 0.5-1mm of play from side to side, measure at the center of the rear of the prop thread on the stub.  I always greased the drive assembly after every 2-4 runs with some purple drive cable grease the seller threw into the box when i got in from the RCU marketplace.  I think i've put a little over a gallon of fuel through it.  That doesn't seem like enough time to wear that bushing down, but you guys would know better.....?

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

they do wear a little over time and thats part of their job, if you dont have a bushing or something on the stub your strut or stuffing tube would be the parts wearing out which would be more costly and time consuming to fix
notice the strut on this boat has no bushing or stuffing tube in it, just bare aluminum
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_0682.jpg
same strut with a bearing and stuffing tube in it the brass bearing is hanging a little out of the strut in this picture
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/100_0805.jpg
I would get you some better pictures but cam program isnt on this computer yet :(

one thing to remember the fit and finish of stock RTR parts isnt always great and aftermarket to stock parts fit and finish isnt always a perfect match either, Not saying the RTRs are bad just the opposite, they are the perfect learning tool in RC as they make people learn how to fix problems and 90% of everyone tears them down and modifies the crap out of them which is a big step on the way to custom builds and higher end RC if one chooses to go that route. Just like now, you are learning your drive-line which carries over to ;)

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

I use the Pro Boat flywheel's I had laying around,
I had a few Pro Boats once apon a time:eek:
http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...7/IMG_0210.jpg

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

WOW YOU LOOKING TO GET RID FOR ANY OF THOSE

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Man i keep shucking blades on these plastic props.  Please tell me that the metal props, like the grim prop, don't shuck blades when they run over sticks and stuff???

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

i have never have had that happen with my metal prop but i have had it ding up and had to re S&B it

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

That's an old pic, and most of those were damaged when I got em, I still have Some parts and pieces.

The plastic props are J U N K [:'(] they will Sling Blades off without hitting Anything But Water and High Speed[X(] They are also Generally a lower pitch than the Metal Props, The blades Flex under a load and Loose Thrust, you never get one very sharp,, I can go on,, But I won't

The metal prop Will Break a blade off "IF" you hit something Hard at High RPM's but Generally they Curl an edge or something when you hit something BIG, if you keep it Sharp and Balanced it will perform and last 10X more than the plastic blades.

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Cool
I am going through the process of sharpening the 36x55 grim prop. Had i done a little more homework prior to ordering i would have seen that the Octura is the same prop at half the price. But oh well, i'm happy to have it now. I am having a little trouble balancing the prop reliably. I have sharpened and balanced it as good as my Top Flight balancer will allow in its current state. In a nutshell, i think the prop is balanced better than the balancing shaft and rubber grommets that hold the prop. I polished one magnet with 220, then 400, then 600 grit sandpaper. Then i tried to balance the shaft. It's pretty tough to do that though. Even with a polished magnet and oil on the magnet where the rod touches, it still has a tendency to "stick" a little bit instead of freely turning. I've marked the high side and tried using 600 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the low side, but i'm beginning to wonder if the shaft may be slightly bent. I dont think i have any glass around the house on which i can roll the shaft. As i say this i look at a picture of my wife from our wedding day that is on my desk, and VOILA, i can use picture frame glass to check and see how true the shaft is to straight.

I'll keep checking on the prop until i feel pretty confident that i have it balanced to a high degree of precision. But once it's balanced, i'm still not confident in the bushing in the strut. Is there anyway to buy a stock size of brass tubing that will fit in the stut and act as a bushing, or do i need to just plan on ordering one now along with a new drive shaft from Toyotatruckin'??? (toyota, even though you have a vested interest in the answer, i'd still appreciate your thoughts!)

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

if your getting a shaft from me it includes a bushing already

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Your email address above returns a permanent failure because the mail folder is full.

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Thanks for letting me know, Problem is fixed !

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Problem is fixed......Toyota will do you right!!!!!!!

RE: Miss Vegas Deuce Engine Starting and Running
 

Ok i ran the boat a few times yesterday.  I drilled a hole in the left side of the transom to help water drain while it runs.  That definitely helped keep water in the baot to a minimum.  However, the boat still gradually gets slower and slower each lap i make during the run.  I've installed rubber band over the gas tank cap to make sure that the pressure from the pipe is staying as dependable as possible in the tank.  The water in the hull is kept to a minimum.The boat doesn't stall in the water.  It just seems like the engine gradually looses power and will not rev, the more laps i do on a particular tank.  It always runs good the first 1-2 laps, though.  Could the engine be slowly overheating?  I don't have a temp gun, but if i touch the head of the engine right after i bring it in, i can't keep my fingers on the head more than about .5 seconds before it starts to burn.  I know some others said they could keep their hands on the head for 2-3 seconds.  I may go pick up a $20 temp gun from lowes and see what the head temp is running.  I'm right at 3 turns out on the needle.  Any ideas?