There's 2 of them that I know of for sale on Facebook, both look like they've got low time on them. One guy in Florida wants to move up to a gas Cat.Duty, for the carb, try Tower Hobbies as they did carry a while ago.
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SuperTigre parts have been very scarce over the last several years. There was issues getting parts from the Chinese factory. There is supposed to be parts and engines being produced now or very soon so don't expect much from Hobbico/Tower right now until they get more stock in store. Your best bet on a carburetor for the old S-series engines is to search ebay or post about what you need in the Club Super Tigre thread in the glow engines forum.
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Originally Posted by 1qwksport2.5r
(Post 11902421)
supertigre parts have been very scarce over the last several years. There was issues getting parts from the chinese factory. There is supposed to be parts and engines being produced now or very soon so don't expect much from hobbico/tower right now until they get more stock in store. Your best bet on a carburetor for the old s-series engines is to search ebay or post about what you need in the club super tigre thread in the glow engines forum.
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Originally Posted by duty
(Post 11902549)
have you ever heard or tried the perry carbs ?
I will not own and run any of the Chinese SuperTigre engines - I only have interest in the Italian made engines and parts. If you have an Italian ST engine, the fitment of the Chinese parts is not always the same. Many parts will not interchange between Chinese made and Italian made engines of the same model. |
Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
(Post 11902704)
Never tried one, probably never will. The smallest debris particle fouls up the mixture. They are prone to o-ring shrinkage more than other carbs which makes them impossible to adjust properly when that happens. If one understands how to adjust a Perry carb properly and has a clean carb with good o-rings, they work very well based on what others have said about them. I much prefer the Italian ST 2-needle carbs - they work fantastically as long as you adjust them properly. They get setup slightly differently than other standard 2-needle carbs l.
I will not own and run any of the Chinese SuperTigre engines - I only have interest in the Italian made engines and parts. If you have an Italian ST engine, the fitment of the Chinese parts is not always the same. Many parts will not interchange between Chinese made and Italian made engines of the same model. |
I don't know what will fit your engine being I don't know the neck size and choke size of every carb out there... But I would suggest measuring the choke and neck size so you at least know what you're looking for. I don't understand, however, what the problem is with the Dynamite carburetor? My Mach and SH engines have superb Carburetors. (SH makes engines for Losi/Mach/Dynamite, XTM, LRP, etc..).
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The carb is really too small to get any real performance out of. First, the Dynamite .32 is considered only a Sport engine so it's going to have mild timing and the tiny carb. Without port-matching the header a mod like getting a bigger carb isn't going to help much as it's choking the engine there also.I spent a lot of time working on .12 powered boats and learned a lot with those. I ran into the issue where many of them were restricted with carb size as ROAR rules say that the carbs can have only a 5.5mm bore. A guy made up some Nova Rossi .21 carbs and turned them down so that they'd fit into my engines. With just a carb swap alone my little boat went from running wet to barely on the water and a good guesstimated 5 or more MPH gain.
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That makes sense. The choke size of my SH .28 monster truck engine is 9.1mm and makes gobs of power. Maybe sourcing a car carburetor will do the trick?
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson
(Post 11903281)
The carb is really too small to get any real performance out of. First, the Dynamite .32 is considered only a Sport engine so it's going to have mild timing and the tiny carb. Without port-matching the header a mod like getting a bigger carb isn't going to help much as it's choking the engine there also.I spent a lot of time working on .12 powered boats and learned a lot with those. I ran into the issue where many of them were restricted with carb size as ROAR rules say that the carbs can have only a 5.5mm bore. A guy made up some Nova Rossi .21 carbs and turned them down so that they'd fit into my engines. With just a carb swap alone my little boat went from running wet to barely on the water and a good guesstimated 5 or more MPH gain.
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
(Post 11903007)
I don't know what will fit your engine being I don't know the neck size and choke size of every carb out there... But I would suggest measuring the choke and neck size so you at least know what you're looking for. I don't understand, however, what the problem is with the Dynamite carburetor? My Mach and SH engines have superb Carburetors. (SH makes engines for Losi/Mach/Dynamite, XTM, LRP, etc..).
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Originally Posted by duty
(Post 11903340)
the carbs o.d. is .550
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
(Post 11903354)
You measured the O.D of the neck of the carb where it goes into the engine and not the top above the throttle valve, right?
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson
(Post 11903281)
The carb is really too small to get any real performance out of. First, the Dynamite .32 is considered only a Sport engine so it's going to have mild timing and the tiny carb. Without port-matching the header a mod like getting a bigger carb isn't going to help much as it's choking the engine there also.I spent a lot of time working on .12 powered boats and learned a lot with those. I ran into the issue where many of them were restricted with carb size as ROAR rules say that the carbs can have only a 5.5mm bore. A guy made up some Nova Rossi .21 carbs and turned them down so that they'd fit into my engines. With just a carb swap alone my little boat went from running wet to barely on the water and a good guesstimated 5 or more MPH gain.
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No, I can't get them anymore. The guy got out of RC and got himself an airplane.
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson
(Post 11907440)
No, I can't get them anymore. The guy got out of RC and got himself an airplane.
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For those of you looking for a bigger engine to drop into the boat, this one might be a low-cost option. The only info I have is what's on the site.https://mecoa.biz/shopdisplayproducts.asp?catalogid=425 A pull-start and side exhaust makes the conversion a lot easier.
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Originally Posted by ron olson
(Post 11918047)
for those of you looking for a bigger engine to drop into the boat, this one might be a low-cost option. The only info i have is what's on the site.https://mecoa.biz/shopdisplayproducts.asp?catalogid=425 a pull-start and side exhaust makes the conversion a lot easier.
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1 Attachment(s)
long live the thundercat someone said it couldn't be done I blew up my dynamite enginehttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2101875it now has a Zenoah first time out was a blast will take vids soon
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Originally Posted by digerman
(Post 12053041)
long live the thundercat someone said it couldn't be done I blew up my dynamite enginehttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2101875it now has a Zenoah first time out was a blast will take vids soon
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Things are about to get interesting.......
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Originally Posted by Ron Olson
(Post 12053134)
Things are about to get interesting.......
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It still needs a little work fine tuning and prop testing and mod the lid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKOnm7ZIYbQ |
Originally Posted by duty
(Post 12053199)
my man ron pots and pans :P
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:) I watched the video yesterday. There's a lot more left in that boat!
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2 Attachment(s)
Hi, just wanted to share my mod.
Its an permanently mounted glow starter in the boat, taking power from the RX battery. Used an XL4015 DC-DC Step Down to bring the RX battery down to 1.3v, and a switch to turn the glow starter on/off. On the battery I have two jst connection, on that powers the RX and the other one are Im going to have outside the waterproof box to charge the A123 receiver pack and to power the glow starter circuit. Please dont try and power this trough the RX itself. The negativ is grounded to the engine mount, and the positive is connected to the tip of the glow plug with an spade connector, the end that usually goes into the cable. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2118022 http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2118023 https://youtu.be/--lNo5t_bzU |
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