scratchpc7

Finally got it finished. It is a Don Muddiman Flying Machine that I purchased in January, 1991. I was out of the hobby for nine of those years though. I got it finished up this past winter and got to do the maiden flight on Saturday.

Engine is an old Royal .40 spinning a 10/5 prop. I has plenty of power and speed with this setup, and I have a pipe and header for it if I so desire. I have a Hitec 85MG for the aileron servo. I was not sure if this would be enough, but there were no problems and I had plenty of roll rate.

Got three flights out of it. It took a bit of left trim, and about 2 clicks of down. The biggest problem is that it would not snap or spin at all. I have the CG set as per the plans. Can anyone that has had one of these give me an idea of how far back I can set the CG. I will start moving it back some and see if I can get it better.

Here are the pics.

Doug

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

That's a great looking plane. Sounds like you're going to have a blast with it.

Pilot Chad

My Feedback: (4)

Thats an AWSOME looking plane. I want one :-)

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

Finally !!! Someone that builds slower than me.

britbrat

Re snapping & spinning --- can you increase your elevator & rudder throw? A C-of-G shift aft will help the spins, but may not help the snaps. Plenty of elevator & rudder throw will help both.

scratchpc7

Update:

I increased my rudder throw a bit and added 1 oz. of lead to the tail. The snaps were much better, and the spins were better but not great. I am going add the tuned pipe, and at the direction of one of my fellow club members, I am going to set the CG to 35%. Hopefully I will get better with that.

Doug

Muddiman

Hi Doug,
This is Don Muddiman the designer of the Flying Machine. Below is the optimal setting for the Flying Machine. No CG change or weight should ever be needed if the aircraft is built straight and per the step-by-step instructions. The rudder is the key to making the aircraft snap, excessive elevator will only cause the aircraft to snap out at low speeds. Read the instructions carefully and setup the aircraft as I state and you will be amazed at the flight performance.
Enjoy,

Don [8D]


Maximum Flight Control Performance.

Setting up the elevator throws:

Prior to flight make sure the rudder is trimmed at center. During flight trim the aircraft for level flight at wide open throttle into the wind. Pull full up elevator and watch the aircraft carefully, it should track true through a complete loop. If the aircraft starts to waiver or snaps in the loop, you have too much up elevator deflection. Decrease the up elevator throw slightly and repeat the above steps until the aircraft can complete this successfully. Apply the reverse of this procedure if during the first test loop the aircraft completes it. You want to maximize the elevator throw for the aircraft. Use the same procedure for setting up the down elevator throw.
Using this procedure for setting the elevator provides for a wide speed envelope allowing you to apply full elevator in a tight situation (If you know what I mean!) knowing the aircraft will not snap. I have seen many aircraft crash because of not properly setting up the elevator throws.

Set the ailerons surface movements to suit your individual preference. Start out with “soft” controls and then increase the throw until you can't stand it. I never use maximum aileron control, You just can't keep up with the rolls.

The rudder, well all I can say is hang on and be careful on takeoff !!. I set the FLYING MACHINE to MAX rudder. A setting of 45 to 50 degree deflection is required to provide those "ohho" and "ahhs".
Knife edge maneuvers require a small amount of rudder throw.

You will find the FLYING MACHINE to be one of the most positive, responsive and fun aircraft you have ever flown. The only limits with the FLYING MACHINE are the pilots flying ability.


My Setup/Equipment
The Flying Machine I perform with has the following equipment:
O.S. MAX 40 S.F. ABC engine, turning a Master Airscrew 9x6 prop.
(The engine RPMS are approximately 17,000 static.)
Mac 7.5 unmuffled tuned pipe and header.
Tru-Turn Spinner 2 1/4"
The fuel is 5% Byron Originals Preminum Sport Synthetic
Kraft 8 oz. fuel tank
Rossi #6 glow plug.
J.R. 347 radio using 4031 servos and a 500 ma. battery pack.
The aircraft weighs approximately 4lbs. 4 oz.

Muddiman

Oh one more thing, That's a nice looking Flying Machine!

Later,
DOn

scratchpc7

Don,
thanks for the reply. I put the header and pipe on it and installed a 9/6 prop. Took it out to the field yesterday to try it out now. When I tached it, I was getting about 15,500 RPM. This is probably not too bad for a tired Royal 40 that I had used in my B-class pylon racing days. Took off and trimmed it out with the new weight and whoa. This is the first time that I ever had the CG that far aft on any aircraft. Took the 1 oz of lead off of the tail and tried again. CG still too far aft. Even though it was a little sensitive, I was able to get it on the ground. Decided to quit while I was ahead, take it home, and move the battery pack to get the CG back to where it needs to be. I will have to try it again another day.

Oh well, had my Ultra Sport 40 and Vectorflight Extra 66 to fly so all was well.


Doug

East RC

whats the status on your flying machine?

scratchpc7

Not too much at the moment. After putting the pipe on it and flying, the CG was way too far aft. Took it home and rebalanced it and tried again. This time the CG was ok, but it looks like the lateral balance is way off. It would not track straight in loops but would roll out to the right, the side that the pipe is on. So now I need to go and rebalance it laterally. Plus I am not too happy with the pipe. I may just go back to the normal muffler and rebalance it there.

I have not had much time lately to do anything with it. Most of my flying has been with my Vectorflight Extra 66". I will get back to it and get if flying again. I want to have all of the aerobatic fun with it that I can stand.

Doug