Strykaas

Found it : http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_17...e%2Cops/tm.htm

Enjoy !

And do a search beore posting next time, you !

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the pic Strykaas. Would anyone have the measurement for the firewall, height and width for the Shrike 40. I would assume the kit and ARF are the same. Also the distance from the firewall to the front of the engine bay. Trying to figure if the OS 61 will fit. Thanks for any help...

RC-Captain

yea , be careful, don't over do it on the .10 air frame. Go to a .40 .


CAP

RU4JESUS2 FALCONGTS

GLAD to see shrikes we have 7 at the club what a site to see 4 at once ,waiting for a midair[X(] and if that was not enough excitement one guy had a dive went into
the corn was going so fast came back out of the corn and kept flying whats the odds of that,!!! then he says ,lets try that again [X(] tossle time [X(] this time clips the top of
the corn A little louder ,and the thing is still flying does a couple of more circuts ,I don't think its flying right?[] better land to see whats wrong . DUH!!!

he striped one servo and had corn stock on the motor other than that the plane in perfect .
was the arf version

I have not built a plane or covered a plane or have time
the arf to ele how hard would that be??
any ideas
thanks all FALCON

i have striker f27c and H9 f22 100 mph

crashinator

Im confused, I'm building a Shrike 10 this winter and would like to use an O.S. .25. Towers site and Laniers site differ on engine size, since I have easy access to .15's and .25's I would like to go with the .25. Is the wing loading too much with a .25 to be flown less than WOT?
I plan on making provisions for a heavier motor aka, moving bulkhead back a bit, ect.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I had a 15 in mine at first. I moved firewall back ~ 1.1" and installed a 25. With the 15, the balance was behind the recommended staring point and it flew slightly nose heavy.
The 25 balances on the starting point and it flies nose heavy.

You can fly at less than WOT with the 25. Mine lands a bit hotter.

weight with 15- 33oz
weight with 25- 38oz

Have fun, MikeB

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

Crashinator, If you really want to have some fun, install a 32. A 25 would be the minimum I would install...

DiggyDiggs

Hey folks... I am in the process of building a shrike .10. The build is coming along, but I think I want to go electric with it. I am not having much luck searching this thread for info on it. Don't normally follow RCU that much, but this is the place if you want shrike info. Can someone link me to some posts in this thread where electric conversion has been discussed, or maybe its in another thread. Have seen mention of some speed 400 motors, but that leaves a pretty big gap I was thinking about the ARC-28-47-2 from http://www.lightflightrc.com/. Any input on that?

Thanks
Diggs

RC-Captain

You should try the electric forums to see what you come up with as far as motor specifications on a SHRIKE. My first guess would be, electric pound for pound, would be much more heavier than glow. I could be wrong I am not an electric buff.




CAP

iflyg450

Gear question for a shrike 10. I plan on using an MDS .18 a castle creation mirco stamp 4L Rx


??What servos do you recomend??

RC-Captain

I would use servos that are equal to standard servos. The weight of the shrike .10 isn't so heavy that you would need to use ball bearing or digital servos.


CAP

europatc74

My Feedback: (6)

I use Futaba 3004 servos. Any standard servo will do........

iflyg450

Shirke 10 Wing Question:

I was wondering has anyone bulit the wings in 2 pieces then permently joined them to the fuelage? Make each panel at a time with the spar's cut in the middle buid them on a board , then slide the wing halves into the fuelage then stiffen up the joint. I say this because right know I am working on my wing and building with fueslage hanging off the edge of the table sucks! If I build another I think thats what I'll be doing. Any thoghts on this????

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I cut a piece of shelving material in half. Built the wing halves on the shelving and let the fuselage hang between the shelving halves. Hope that made sense.

iflyg450

I like that idea will try that tonight when I start on the left wing. Also I left the trailing edge material as one piece as I don't have the aileron torque rods yet. I wasn't to sure what they were talking about in the direction when they said to notch it? I am sure I can do that latter. I like the plane so far but the direction and the lack of pictures is a bit of a pain in the a$#.

RC-Captain

The notch is to help the torgue rod move up and down. As far as the wing halfs, it probably will be to much work for me but if anyone attempts this please start a thread showing your work.

CAP

s_moorman

Hey guys, I've got a highly modified shrike .40 that I built from a kit. I increased the wingspan to 53.5", installed mechanical retracts that are completely hidden, moved the aileron servos inside the wings, and added functional rudders. I sheeted the bottom wings and bottom fuselage with 3/32 ply and the top with 1/16 ply to help handle the wing loading and in the event of a gear up landing, the underside of the plane. Its powered with a super tigre .45 with an Hitec HS-81 on the throttle, JR DS537's on the ailerons, JR 537 on the elevator and Hitec retract servo. Sorry I don't remember the number right off hand. Like most shrikes, its prone to snap roll when it stalls and on my first flight attept it snapped on takeoff and I broke a few fins on the top of the engine. Other than that, it has been flown with no mishaps a total of two times. I've only flown it with a 10x7 prop and myself and everyone at the club agree its running approximately around 105. I have a 10x9 and a 10x10 prop that I have not tried yet because this is really more plane than I can handle. For starters, the plane is a real handful to land as its approximately 7.5# weight makes for a hot approach and when flying it eats up a lot of sky in a hurry. I'm considering selling it and was wondering if anyone would be interested in buying and what it might be worth to someone. Serious offers only please. I live in Tallahassee, FL and routinely travel from here to Wrightsville in middle Georgia. I would be happy to deliver within 50 miles of those towns or the route in between. OUtside of that, shipping would probably be around 60 bucks on Greyhound.

IF anyone is interested or wants more pics, please send me an email at [email protected]

RC-Captain

Sell it on RCU or Ebay ,it will be gone in one week tops. At 7.4 lbs , I believe most would agree it needs a bigger engine. My Rossi .60 might just do the trick.


CAP

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Neat thread on the Shrike. Fun airplane to fly that's for sure. Here's a few pics of my .10 sized shrike with a .15 on it and tuned pipe. ran the pipe under the plane and moved the canopy forward to give it more of a 'Jet' look.

Strykaas

It's an old one . Did it fly or what ??

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

Flown it a lot! Still going strong now. Maiden flight was July 6, 2006.

Strykaas

Nice ! I seem to recall you had removed that belly cowling...

s_moorman

I listed the shrike shown in post #342 above if anyone is interested. I will be glad to send extra pics via email, just contact me at [email protected]

smchale

My Feedback: (67)

That's right, i did. hated to do it but it improved performance dramatically. We have a very nice grass field and i've never had a problem landing this plane on it's belly with the pipe underneath. fun plane to fly in all weather conditions too.

Forced_Induction

I have a question for you guys with shrikes powered by electrics. anyone have any problems with breaking props on landing? also what motors are being used? i am building a shrike 10 right now.