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SHRIKE CLUB # 1

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Old 11-20-2005, 12:52 PM
  #26  
piper_chuck
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

ORIGINAL: RC-FIEND
Chuck the weight with the MAG .28 on the nose will be 1 lb 19oz's. This engine was pulling my modeltech extra 300 almost vertical so I hope I can handle the speed. Oh yea flying the shrike made it seem like my chipmunk was barely moving [] but I guess that is what speed planes do , make other planes appear to be much slower.
Ummm, 1 lb 19oz? Youz guyz in Joisey use a different measurement system than the rest of us?

All this talk about Shrikes gave me the urge to take mine to the field yesterday. Conditions were perfect, nice sunny sky and no wind. The speed was great. The person with the reputation for having some of the fastest prop planes in the club estimated that my Shrike was faster than his Patriot. He and I did some informal formation/pylon flying before I took the Shrike up.
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Old 11-20-2005, 02:22 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

Well I took mine up today with the MAG.28 on the nose and was afraid to go past half throttle . But due to a very smooth then ruff landing, at the same time, along with oil soaked balsa, the nose came apart and I have to rebuild. I will use CA glue to coat the entire engine compartment making it stronger and oil and fuel resistant. I almost got the flight on video but for some strange reason the battery died when I reached the field.

PS I can convert the weight to Kilo grams for you .
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Old 11-20-2005, 02:27 PM
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

Glad to hear it flew, bummer on the rebuild. I use Balsarite to seal engine compartments, and before I cover a plane. It does a good job of preventing fuel soaked wood, and also helps keep the covering edges from coming up.

I guess you missed my point on the measurements. How many ounces in a pound?
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Old 11-20-2005, 03:04 PM
  #29  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

I'll join the club. I picked up a second hand plane and just identified it as a Shrike 10. I found some info on it at the Lanier site, so all I need to do now is repair some hangar rash, (re)install radio and servos and clean up the OS .25 that is on it (hasn't been run in awhile).
Welcome aboard . Your shrike is the first one I have seen that has a nose shaped like my did. Also the way the fuel hoses come from the top like that looks familiar.

Good luck with the overhaul.

PS your cat looks funny [sm=lol.gif]
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Old 11-20-2005, 03:12 PM
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

How many ounces in a pound?
[sm=lol.gif] my fault , 16 ounces in a pound but I had to add the weight of the engine to the weight of the rest of the plane plus subtract 2 ounces for fuel in bottle, so 2 pounds 3 ounces total .......lol, and that is with 2 c size batteries in the tail to balance it out .
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Old 11-20-2005, 04:20 PM
  #31  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

Here is a picture of the Shrike I built for a buddy in Cairo, Egypt. It is still flying there. Has an OS 15CV on it. Started with a 15 LA, but Al is a speed freak. Still waiting for my stuff to get here from Egypt, have a 1/2a ready to fly in a box, plus a 15 size kit that I want to build with a 25 on it. The first picture was the first build, then we discovered how weak the spar was. The second is a vast improvement in wing strength

John
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Old 11-20-2005, 05:06 PM
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1


ORIGINAL: piper_chuck

Glad to hear it flew, bummer on the rebuild. I use Balsarite to seal engine compartments, and before I cover a plane. It does a good job of preventing fuel soaked wood, and also helps keep the covering edges from coming up.

I guess you missed my point on the measurements. How many ounces in a pound?

Good advice on the Balsarite, Chuck. I would not use CA for the purpose as Nitromethane is a solvent for CA.

jess
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Old 11-20-2005, 05:41 PM
  #33  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

I always use slow curing epoxy in the engine and fuel tank compartments. Never had had a problem with oil soaking.

John
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Old 11-20-2005, 05:54 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

Good advice on the Balsarite, Chuck. I would not use CA for the purpose as Nitromethane is a solvent for CA.
I keep getting CA glue mixed up with EPOXY . Balsarite is water proof but I am not sure if it is fuel proof.
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Old 11-20-2005, 06:09 PM
  #35  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

ORIGINAL: RC-FIEND

Good advice on the Balsarite, Chuck. I would not use CA for the purpose as Nitromethane is a solvent for CA.
I keep getting CA glue mixed up with EPOXY . Balsarite is water proof but I am not sure if it is fuel proof.
I have used Balsarite in the engine area on EVERY kit I have ever built. I also use it in the engine area for ARFs. Never a problem with fuel soaking. It's light, dries fast, and is fuel proof.
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Old 11-24-2005, 10:15 AM
  #36  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

I have the Shrike .40 Mine had a Tower Hobbies .46. It flew well. Unlimited vertical, very fast. It wasn't at all like I expected. I thought it would be really squerlly and all over the sky. It in fact was not. Really stable. Fast roll rate, tame in pitch. Kinda Jet like really. I crashed it pretty good on landing and broke one wing off. Then I rebuilt it and used duct tape for covering! It flew just as well as before, but eventually I got bored with it and its now retired. Flights were like, lets go fast from the left.......Ok, now we'll go fast from the right...... Without rudder, etc. there is only so many things you can do with one of these. However, I only built it to test my flying skills. I think some time flying a Shrike will make every RC'er a better pilot. Here is a picture of it when it still looked good.
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Old 11-24-2005, 10:18 AM
  #37  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

I made one modification to it when I built it that I would highly recommend. Make the bottom of the fuselage a access hatch under the fuel tank. Small airframes with a fuel leak are a bugger to fix when you can't get in there!
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Old 11-24-2005, 02:51 PM
  #38  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

Nice SHRIKE, The .40 isn't much bigger than the .10. And you hit the nail on the head as far as every one should fly one because it really takes concentration and a steady hand to control the SHRIKE. My first flight I was all over the place for the first 20 seconds of flight then I calmed down , my leg stopped shaking and I was shipping it around like it was on rails.
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Old 12-08-2005, 05:20 PM
  #39  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

I suppose I need to join as well as I am about 1/3 done with mine. It is a .10 size with an O.S. .15fp for power. I will post pictures later when I finish. I really enjoyed reading the build threads as the manual & plans where the worst I have ever built from. [:-]
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Old 12-08-2005, 06:58 PM
  #40  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

Welcome and I am glad the thread could be of help. I wrecked my Shrike do to poor elevator surface . You can take this as a warning or ignore it , but if you ignore it fly very high. As I was banking low I hit a tree limb because it would not pull out of the bank. I had the MAG .28 on the nose at this time. GL keep us posted.
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:01 PM
  #41  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

Hi guys im new to the site i just finish building my Shrike all i have left to do is cover it im also concearn i want to do something diffrent has anyone put a duct-fan or re-modle the canopy or anything diffrent than the regular shrike? thank you and any ideas will be welcome

thank you

Fermin
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Old 12-27-2005, 03:45 PM
  #42  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

ORIGINAL: Medevack1

Hi guys im new to the site i just finish building my Shrike all i have left to do is cover it im also concearn i want to do something diffrent has anyone put a duct-fan or re-modle the canopy or anything diffrent than the regular shrike? thank you and any ideas will be welcome
Yours is all built and all that's left is covering? You've finished the easy part, enjoy the covering! I didn't use the canopy. Look at the pic I put in post #13, and the reason will be obvious.
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:07 PM
  #43  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

I am about to start a 10 size shrike. I found an OS 28F on eBay that I bought to put on it. Anyone ever try one of these engines before. I know some have used OS32s on Shrikes, but I think that may be a bit much for the middle size plane.

John
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:17 PM
  #44  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

I used a OS 20 on my Shrikes and they were rockets!!! I can't imagine that anything bigger is going to add anything to the plane besides extra weight.

Ken
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Old 12-27-2005, 05:42 PM
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

cool im is it hard to cover? how should i start? and any ideas on cooling vents? pics pics pics[sm=bananahead.gif]
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Old 12-27-2005, 08:40 PM
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

cool I'm is it hard to cover? how should i start? and any ideas on cooling vents? pics pics pics
Welcome to the club guys .

Covering was quite easy and I stink at covering. I posted picks of my covering job little by little in my other thread for my SHRIKE build. The one problem I had was covering the wing because of the shape of it and trying to use one piece to cover the entire top then the bottom. My technique needs a little bit of improvement.

As far the engine is concerned I put a MAG .28 on the nose after trying the AP .15 and learned the hard way the elevator didn't have enough surface. Some may argue it does but IMO it needs to be a little bit wider.

GL, once you fly this thing all of your other planes will seem very easy to handle, at least thats what I noticed.
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Old 12-27-2005, 09:09 PM
  #47  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

ORIGINAL: Medevack1

cool im is it hard to cover? how should i start? and any ideas on cooling vents? pics pics pics[sm=bananahead.gif]
I've covered lots of planes and while the Shrike is small, I found it to be a pain in the butt compared to other planes. The part I found to be particularly troublesome was the wing to fuselage joint. The rest was a piece of cake. I covered the fuse first, going from the bottom upward, and back to front so the overlaps were always facing down or back. I used 2 pieces for each side of the wing, covering the bottom first and then the top.
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Old 12-27-2005, 09:23 PM
  #48  
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

ORIGINAL: RC-FIEND
As far the engine is concerned I put a MAG .28 on the nose after trying the AP .15 and learned the hard way the elevator didn't have enough surface. Some may argue it does but IMO it needs to be a little bit wider.
I haven't noticed any lack of elevator response. In fact, I've got the rates set pretty low, and it's still got plenty of elevator. When one more than doubles the weight of the engine that a plane is designed for, other changes may need to be made. When I built mine I compensated for the extra engine weight by moving the firewall back about a half inch. Seems to have worked great, it balanced right on without having to add lead.
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Old 12-27-2005, 10:32 PM
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well guys i just finish covering the Shrike and you are right Piper Chuck is a pain in the butt... i used my home iron...[:'(] but it came out looking pretty decent i will post pics soon i still have yet to learn how to post pics in here, also one of you guys told me to cover it in a color that it would be noticeble well i didnt have many colors so i did it in bright orange and navy blue... the bottom wing i distinguished it by putting navy blue and white stripes on one wing looks good tho for being my first Kit and covering job. in reference to engines i have a brushless 400 motor...i was told thats enough motor for it. i would love to go gas but i dont have the $ you know....anyway thanks again guys if anyone has pictures of other Shrikes i like to see thenm.

Fermin
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Old 12-27-2005, 10:45 PM
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Default RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

When one more than doubles the weight of the engine that a plane is designed for, other changes may need to be made.
Thats is the point I attempted to make. With the .15 it was fine , slow for my liking but it flew. With the .28 the elevator response was lost . Turns became wider and landings harder. I didn't do any rates although with bigger control surfaces it would almost be a must.
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