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  1. #576
    Mustang Fever's Avatar
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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Chief:

    I think I'll try and move to Anchorage. Much better flying weather than Michigan.

    When you mount your engine, you might want to do the rear mount needle valve like I did, so that you can get the engine right up against the mount. Also, you might consider putting your aileron servo by itself in that set of rails in back, and making another set of rails for your elevator and throttle servos against the rearmost bulkhead. These two things will get most of the weight aft so that you won't need any lead to balance her. (The upside down servo in the pic is my nosewheel steering, which you won't have.) Also, the stabilizer can easily be constructed of sheet instead of sticks like on the plans, which makes it much easier to cover and also gets a touch of weight aft where it's needed.
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    Bob Hunt

    \"Progress is marked by great smoking holes in the ground.\"
    -Gen. Chuck Yeager

  2. #577

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Thanks for all of the tips! I'm definitely going to build a solid tail section now. Thanks for the tip! I have been pretty busy with work the past couple of days, but I finally had a chance to work on my shrike tonight. I concentrated on the engine area and am pretty satisfied with how it turned out. It's a REAL tight fit and tricky to get the engine in and out, but it should look good when I'm done. I'm going to go with a yellow and black scheme. I also finished the hatch and am pretty pleased with how it turned out. I'm going to start on the wings tomorrow. Anyways, I have a couple of questions. Do you guys round off the corners on the entire fuselage? I think it would look better like that. Also, I would like to use dual aileron servos. Has anybody done that to theirs? If so, how did you mount them? Here's some pictures of my progress. You'll notice that I had to extend the nose 1/4" in order to get the F-1 plate close enough to my nose cone.



    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115

  3. #578

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    WOW CHIEF! looks good so far!

    heres what advice i have to offer based on my experiences with foamies and what little experience i have with this plane:

    -if ur gonna have landing gear, then its fine and dandy to go ahead and use dual aileron servos. just make a spot to put one under each wing.
    BUT:
    -if u have no landing gear, then i would not use dual servos! everytime you land you run the risk of hanging up on one of the servos/horns which can do big time damage to your plane, and stripp or rip out your servos. its not worth it. (plus, it looks much better with just the one servo hidden in the fuse, and no control rods/horns showing - much less draggy - sleek lookin )

    but thats just my two cents.
    Heli

  4. #579
    Mustang Fever's Avatar
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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Nice job, Chief

    I agree with Heli on the ailerons. The torque rod setup with a single servo is much cleaner and you don't have the damage risks, plus, 2 ounces is 2 ounces. (Std. servo weight) Finally, the designated servo tray near the main wing spar puts the servo about 2" further to the rear than those twin aileron servos. Balance. I know I'm getting repetitive on this, but it's really critical with this model. Here's a couple more shots of my servo installation. All I did to get the rear tray was cut a few square holes in the sides and put some basswood sticks in there, behind the trailing edge piece and ahead of the aft bulkhead.

    I lightly rounded the corners on my fuse in the areas where there's no triangle stock. (It's 3/32 top and bottom, so not much rounding is possible there anyway.) The only place I really shaped it was at the nose, where the triangle is thick and it has to blend with the spinner.
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    Bob Hunt

    \"Progress is marked by great smoking holes in the ground.\"
    -Gen. Chuck Yeager

  5. #580
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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    As a previous RC Combat pilot, I got used to putting two HS-81MG servos in the wings.
    Those combat planes have no landing gear, so I opted to putting the servo control arms on top.
    Maybe not so nice, but I can hit the spoilers if I'm coming in too fast and the servos never break due to belly landings.
    Of course the compromise is the slick look.
    Then of course there's a little bit more weight up front as the location of the servos is a bit forward.

    Ooops! Now I checked my model and looks like I put the servo controls on the bottom. Had several landings and haven't had a problem yet. But notice the general location of the servos is a bit forward....

    Maybe I should take my own advice???

    Pete
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  6. #581

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    I also use dual aileron servos (hs 81mg ) and I have had no problems with them hitting the ground, but maybe the skid plate on the bottom gives me a little extra clearance, but I'm not sure. My first two shrikes had the aileron servo inside and was a cleaner setup, but it was a pain to do. I just glued in a couple of hardwood rails between the ribs and that seems to be good enough to hold the servo in place.

    Kevin

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    Miss Vegas w/.18TZ , JAE 12 w/.18TZ
    Shrike 10 w/Cox/RJL .15 Conquest, Shrike 40 w/7.5Df, Shrike 10 w/RB .12 serpent.

  7. #582

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Well, hopefully my hobby shop has some of those torque rods! If they do, I'll just do that. If not, I'll have to figure something else out. It takes forever for ordered parts to get up here to Alaska and I'm too impatient to wait for two weeks!
    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115

  8. #583

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    If my memory serves me correctly, I made my own out of 440 rod and a plastic shim cut to the proper length and I just made 90 degree bends in the rods..it worked perfectly, but it took some time and it was a learning process...obviously I learned that the dual ailerons were easier for me..lol.

    Kevin
    Miss Vegas w/.18TZ , JAE 12 w/.18TZ
    Shrike 10 w/Cox/RJL .15 Conquest, Shrike 40 w/7.5Df, Shrike 10 w/RB .12 serpent.

  9. #584

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    So, I have the right wing done and am about halfway done with the left. I discovered that the R5 ribs are 1/4" too short in front of the hard wood spar. They're different than the plans too. If I don't add some wood in there, then I'd have to bend the leading edge around to make it touch. Whatever. It was probably overlooked by Lanier. I've noticed a few other flaws in the directions as far as measurements and things like that. Nothing that can't be worked around. Also, I am going to go ahead and use dual aileron servos. The plans show both. Single or Dual aileron servos. The R1 and R2 ribs have the cutouts for the rails. I installed a servo in one and due to where the servo is in the wing and how low the fuselage hangs, there's no way it will hang up on landing unless you're landing in some really rough and uneven surfaces. I don't see it being a problem.
    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115

  10. #585
    Mustang Fever's Avatar
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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    I had the same encounter with R5. I bent the LEs a bit, as it was the same on both sides. The airplane doesn't seem to care.

    They build fast, don't they? I did some of my parts cutting one day in February, but most of the building was done on and off during October and November and it was done before Thanksgiving. Once everything was framed up, it went really quickly.
    Bob Hunt

    \"Progress is marked by great smoking holes in the ground.\"
    -Gen. Chuck Yeager

  11. #586

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Yep. I was wondering if anybody had noticed that about R5. No big deal. I shored it up on the front end and then just applied the LE sheeting. Piece of cake. I just filled the gap with a bunch of sawdust and hit it with some CA. Looks great! Hopefully, I'll be done with this thing by the weekend. It does build pretty quick. The directions are pretty easy to follow too even though there's no pictures. There are a few discrepancies, like the measurements on stuff, but it's pretty obvious when you come across it.
    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115

  12. #587

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Wow! This thing sure goes together quickly! Other than the problem with the R5 ribs, it was a fun build! I'm all done with the build for the most part. I still need to do a final sanding. I also made my rear stab solid like Mustang Fever suggested. Instead of sanding the sides of the stab down ten degrees as suggested in the instructions, I think I'll drop by my local hobby shop on my way home from work tomorrow and pick up a piece of aileron stock. I'll trim that down to size and glue it to the side of the stab. They're about 10 degrees or so. Also, I want to add some winglets to my wing tips, so I need to pick up a couple pieces of wood for that. I can't wait to get this thing in the air!



    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115

  13. #588
    Mustang Fever's Avatar
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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Allright, Chief

    The Shrike is definitely more fun than the time the hogs ate my baby brother.
    Bob Hunt

    \"Progress is marked by great smoking holes in the ground.\"
    -Gen. Chuck Yeager

  14. #589

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1


    ORIGINAL: Mustang Fever

    Allright, Chief

    The Shrike is definitely more fun than the time the hogs ate my baby brother.
    HA HA! Sounds like a good time.

    Anyways, I'm pretty much done with the building. I still need to give it a final sanding. I went ahead and glued the fins on even though it said I should wait until after covering. I think I can make it look nicer if it's fully built. I also added some winglets. To make the angles, I used a piece of aileron stock. I used it on both the stabs and the winglets. It's about 10 degrees and is a lot easier than all of the sanding and trying to get the right angle. I'll probably work on getting the radio gear installed next time I get a chance.



    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115

  15. #590

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    batman !
    ProBro #2077
    http://image2-0.rcuniverse.com/e1/forum/upfiles/57402/Nl29490.jpg

  16. #591

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Looks awsome man...keep us updated with pics..
    I'm almost finished with mine too, but it's just a standard looking build for now. I might post a pic or two if I come up with a good color scheme.

    Kevin
    Miss Vegas w/.18TZ , JAE 12 w/.18TZ
    Shrike 10 w/Cox/RJL .15 Conquest, Shrike 40 w/7.5Df, Shrike 10 w/RB .12 serpent.

  17. #592

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    So, I ran into a slight problem. I'm covering the plane at the moment and realized that I didn't put the fiberglass between the wing and fuselage as called for in the plans. I don't really see it as necessary. Did you guys all add this fiberglass tape to your planes? I have the bottom of the wing completely covered. If I really need to add it, I'd like to do it before I cover the top. I just don't see how it will add any additional strength.
    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115

  18. #593
    Mustang Fever's Avatar
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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Chief:

    I've never been able to get an answer to that question. IMHO it's a band aid that Lanier came up with to address structural failures on the inboard LE during very high G maneuvers. The inboard wing sheeting is only glued to a 3/32 rib that's right up against the fuse, so it's difficult to get a really strong joint in that area. That's also where the wing is thickest and generates the most lift during a 150mph pullout.

    When I did mine, I decided ahead of time to make that rib out of 3/16 balsa, so there would be more area to glue to. Between that and the CF spars I used, I didn't feel it necessary to do either the glass tape or the sheer web between R1/R2. After assembly, I saturated that whole LE area next to the fuse with thin CA, followed by medium CA, inside and out.

    With all the sheeting in place, it's impossible to get to the inside of that joint. If it was me, I think I'd bite the bullet and remove the covering, at least near the joint, and saturate that joint with thin and medium CA, or epoxy, which sands better. Depends on your flying style more than anything. Do you plan on vertical dives at full power followed by 90 degree pullouts 50 feet above the ground? If not, I doubt you'll ever have a problem in that area. I don't think Joe Beshar counted on guys being as extreme as they are with the Shrike when he designed it. It's described as a smooth flying fun airplane, but it's developed a following of guys who are actually proud when they manage to fold one up now and then pulling out of a dive.


    Bob Hunt

    \"Progress is marked by great smoking holes in the ground.\"
    -Gen. Chuck Yeager

  19. #594

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Thanks for the info! I already beefed up that area with lots of CA and epoxy. I think I'll just leave it. I plan to finish covering it tonight. I picked up a new 2.4G Futaba receiver today. What servos are you guys using? I have some 3003's and some S148's. Are they adequate for this plane with a .46FX on the nose? I might at least pick up a better servo for the elevator. I am using dual aileron servos.
    Matt F. AMA #631697
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  20. #595
    Mustang Fever's Avatar
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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    I'm using four Airtronics 94102 standard, non ball bearing ones that I think are at least 6 years old. They seem just fine. The S3003s have the identical specs.
    Bob Hunt

    \"Progress is marked by great smoking holes in the ground.\"
    -Gen. Chuck Yeager

  21. #596

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    I never had an issue with my 10 size shrikes, but then again I used some cf strips glued to the wing spars...I'm gonna try some 1/4 tri stock on my 40 size shrike along the bottom edge of the R1 rib to create a lip to glue the sheeting to just in case the cf on the spars is not enough..
    Miss Vegas w/.18TZ , JAE 12 w/.18TZ
    Shrike 10 w/Cox/RJL .15 Conquest, Shrike 40 w/7.5Df, Shrike 10 w/RB .12 serpent.

  22. #597

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    WOO HOO! I got the covering pretty much done. I need to touch up a couple of areas. It's kind of hard to tell in the photo, but there is some silver trim where the black meets yellow. I still need to install the radio stuff and the engine. I need to epoxy the engine compartment and install the canopy. I haven't quite figured out what I want to do with the canopy. I might dye it yellow or even red and then install a small pilot figure. By pilot figure, I mean something like a small Buzz Lightyear or something. Or, I might just paint it. How did you guys attach your canopies?
    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115

  23. #598

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    awsome!...looks great.
    For the canopy, I usually use formula 560 or zap a goo and it seems to hold well....just keep it under 200 and you'll be fine.
    Miss Vegas w/.18TZ , JAE 12 w/.18TZ
    Shrike 10 w/Cox/RJL .15 Conquest, Shrike 40 w/7.5Df, Shrike 10 w/RB .12 serpent.

  24. #599
    Mustang Fever's Avatar
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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    Bob Hunt

    \"Progress is marked by great smoking holes in the ground.\"
    -Gen. Chuck Yeager

  25. #600

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    RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1

    What kinds of control throws are you guys using on the .40 size Shrike? I must have missed them in the directions. I'm almost done. Got the engine installed tonight, and now I just have to finish up with the servos.
    Matt F. AMA #631697
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #115


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