SHRIKE CLUB # 1
#676
Junior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston Salem,
NC
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
ok. but do i need to be carefull when i drill it? isnt there like a cone, or a baffle or something on the inside? i just dont want to skrew up my pipe. (i got a screaming deal on it! - $10)
#678
Junior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston Salem,
NC
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
ok yall. so now i have another question for the tuned pipe guys.
the way that i have my firewall drilled means that the eingine is sitting on a 45 degree bank. right now, (looking at it from the front) the engine head is angled to the left of the fuse, and the exhaust is going under the wing. in order to get the pipe on top of the plane, i will have to rotate the eingine a full 90 degrees so that the engine head is to the right of the fuse. but this means that the pipe will have to sit centered on top of the fuse. ive seen several guys on here set their pipes up like that. i bet it would help with lateral balance anyhow. but im worried about how i am going to fasten the pipe to the plane. i want to secure the pipe in a manner that will still allow me to remove the canopy.
so....any suggestions from you guys who have the pipe centered on top of the fuse?
thanks again yall!
Helifryer
the way that i have my firewall drilled means that the eingine is sitting on a 45 degree bank. right now, (looking at it from the front) the engine head is angled to the left of the fuse, and the exhaust is going under the wing. in order to get the pipe on top of the plane, i will have to rotate the eingine a full 90 degrees so that the engine head is to the right of the fuse. but this means that the pipe will have to sit centered on top of the fuse. ive seen several guys on here set their pipes up like that. i bet it would help with lateral balance anyhow. but im worried about how i am going to fasten the pipe to the plane. i want to secure the pipe in a manner that will still allow me to remove the canopy.
so....any suggestions from you guys who have the pipe centered on top of the fuse?
thanks again yall!
Helifryer
#679
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesapeake,
VA
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I just did that exact thing to my shrike last night..just drill a hole in the center of the hatch where you want the mount to go. Both of my shrikes are the same way and work great..
you just have to take the pipe off before you can take the hatch off..no biggie.
here's the mount that I use, but there are others that work well too.
http://www.dbproducts.com/store/hclp.htm
Kevin
you just have to take the pipe off before you can take the hatch off..no biggie.
here's the mount that I use, but there are others that work well too.
http://www.dbproducts.com/store/hclp.htm
Kevin
#681
Junior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston Salem,
NC
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
idk man.. everytime you repove the pipe, then you have to re-tune it right? i dont want that hassle...ill rig something up...lol
im a little worried about how the pipe is gonna affect the CG... but my guess is that if anything, it will make me tail heavy, which is no problem considering the fact that i have 2.5 oz of lead in the tail to make it balance. lol
im going out of town for a week this sunday, so ill hopefully get some nice weather and free time when i get back. then i can actually begin messing with all this pipe nonsense...lol
Helifryer
im a little worried about how the pipe is gonna affect the CG... but my guess is that if anything, it will make me tail heavy, which is no problem considering the fact that i have 2.5 oz of lead in the tail to make it balance. lol
im going out of town for a week this sunday, so ill hopefully get some nice weather and free time when i get back. then i can actually begin messing with all this pipe nonsense...lol
Helifryer
#682
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesapeake,
VA
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
No, you don't have to retune it every time that you remove the hatch. Once you find the proper header length for max rpm, back the pipe off a little so that the header and pipe don't touch....same thing when you take the pipe off to open the hatch..just back the pipe off of the header a bit...1/4 inch or so, so that it does not touch when you re-install it...no bigie.
My shrike 10 with a cox/rjl conquest .15 rear exhaust pic is on page 22 post #539
Kevin
My shrike 10 with a cox/rjl conquest .15 rear exhaust pic is on page 22 post #539
Kevin
#683
Senior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Tecumseh,
MI
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Hey Guys, I'm starting to build a 40 size for e-power. Thanks to Mustang for the rib templates. I'm thinking about a retractable nose wheel only just to save a few props. With a little practice I should be able to come in roll out on the nose and then just stop, sounds good in theory anyway LOL. Don't want to add the extra weight for mains, might not even have a steering servo just hold it straight. Whats everybody think of that Idea? I don't have a digital camera anymore (the ex got it) can't post pics at this time, not much to post yet anyway. skyflyer
#684
Junior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Loxahatchee,
FL
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
new to the shrike . I Just aquired one from a guy at work and it is in pretty good shape except it is missing one aileron
and was wondwering if any one has the plans for it
It has a 35" wing and an older OS 15 I believe it is a Lanier Shrike 10. any help would be appreciated because it
looks like a fun little delta
and was wondwering if any one has the plans for it
It has a 35" wing and an older OS 15 I believe it is a Lanier Shrike 10. any help would be appreciated because it
looks like a fun little delta
#689
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesapeake,
VA
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I have 2 sets of plans and both have some water damage from being in the garage a few years, but I cut away the damaged edges from both and cut them in half to make one good one...kinda. You can have them if you want them..just pm me your address and I can send them out this week..
Kevin
Kevin
#692
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: , SC
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I still have to catch my breath! That's quite a combo. I have a Rossi 45 and would not dare put it on my little Shrike. Can't wait to see yours though!
#693
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Encinitas,
CA
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I have a Picco 60 in a shrike 10 now. I have a pic of it in my photos. It's starting to seem slow so I think the thinner wing and a 90 will get me going a little faster. I think I'll be done with it in about another week. I'll post some pics when its done.
#694
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesapeake,
VA
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I have a 40 shrike with a .45 df turning a 8.75x8.5 @ 20,400 ..I wouldn't even begin to know what a .90 would need...
The wing loading and landing speed on a 10 size shrike would be enormous.
Kevin
The wing loading and landing speed on a 10 size shrike would be enormous.
Kevin
#696
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Encinitas,
CA
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
its turning a apc 9x10 at 22,100 loaded. Yes very high wing loading. Just with the 60 it lands around 50mph. launching is not a problem though.
#697
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesapeake,
VA
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
ok...i was gonna say..the first 2 shrike 10's that i had, had a .32sx on them and the wing loading was high in my opinion and the launches were effortless and the landings were shall we say... (different)...
you may want to put some ceramic tiles on the leading edge to keep it cool during re-entry...or at least wait til it stops glowing orange before you touch it..
Kevin
you may want to put some ceramic tiles on the leading edge to keep it cool during re-entry...or at least wait til it stops glowing orange before you touch it..
Kevin
#698
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Encinitas,
CA
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
LOL! Yeah, I think its going to be fun if I can keep my eyes on it. So what do you think for a prop? Maybe a 9x12 or 9x13. I think I have to custom order them from APC so I wanted to get that rolling. Thanks for your help
#699
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chesapeake,
VA
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
I would try to keep that eng in the rpm range it would normally be running in an df jet setup..whatever that is. It will take some experimenting for sure...I was thinkin in the 10x13 or 11x13 range if they even make that..I'm gonna go check the apc website. I could be way off though
Kevin
Kevin
#700
My Feedback: (9)
RE: SHRIKE CLUB # 1
Almost done with my electric shrike 10 construction.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9487616/tm.htm
After reading the big glow engines everyone here is placing into their small shrike 10 platforms I´m filling relax of my final wheight.
cheers,
Juan
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9487616/tm.htm
After reading the big glow engines everyone here is placing into their small shrike 10 platforms I´m filling relax of my final wheight.
cheers,
Juan