Another Hots!
10-07-2006, 01:04 PM
#27
RE: Another Hots!
When I completed my Hots, I remember balancing it slightly nose-heavy with 2 ounces of lead in the cowling and a Higley Heavy-hub[:'(]. I'd like to think I know better now not to use that kind of rotating mass on the end of the poor engine! The airplane had a tendency to "hunt in pitch" or porpoise at high speed that I thought was caused by the short tail moment. Much later, after I modified the engine installation and added a new cowling, I removed all the nose weight and ended up with the C.G. at 1/8-1/4" behind the spar. This is where the airplane really grooved! I think the pitch hunting problem was due to sloppy elevator linkage issues. Here are pictures of my Hots and a couple others before I learned how to carve and shape balsa and design graphics. [img][/img]
10-07-2006, 03:06 PM
#29
RE: Another Hots!
Dave,
Thanks and it's nice to get confirmation on my memory about the C.G.
I tried to find the formers for the cowl that I salvaged from the wreckage of my Hots and was thinking about scanning them in to post but I'd have to dig too hard... Don't know if that would work anyway.
How I constructed my Hots cowling: Remove the engine and mount and trace a "footprint" of the front end -- i.e. firewall and perimeter sheeting onto a sheet of paper. Do the same with the spinner backplate and also mark the center. The firewall area tracing should look like the profile of a house with the apex lopped off. To allow for sheeting thickness, redraw the front end "footprint" inside the first by 3/32" -- this is the firewall-end former pattern. Make the same, proportionately smaller drawing inside the spinner backplate circle with the corners clearing by 3/32" -- this is the spinner-end former pattern. Adhere the templates to 1/16" ply and cut out using favorite tool(s). Cut a round or square hole to clear the engine mount in the firewall-end former. Enlarge the hole in the spinner former so that it just presses on the drive washer of the engine. Now, tack glue the firewall former to the firewall, install engine and mount, and press the spinner-end former on the drive washer. Hack out a 1/32~1/16" thick piece of something with a 1/4" hole to use as a spacer between the spinner backplate and spinner-end former. Now, just sheet the bottom and sides with 3/32" balsa sheeting. At this point, the incomplete cowling can be pulled off the airplane to complete the sheeting process. Lastly, cut and fit cowl to clear engine. Finished using epoxy finishing resin then sanded and painted with Formula-U. On the first cowling I made I tried to disguise the squareness with those cheesy-looking cheeks. Later, I leaned my engine installation over 45 degrees, built a new cowl and added balsa to all sides and sanded/shaped to fair in nicely with the spinner backplate. Never got pictures of it.
Another Dave
Thanks and it's nice to get confirmation on my memory about the C.G.
I tried to find the formers for the cowl that I salvaged from the wreckage of my Hots and was thinking about scanning them in to post but I'd have to dig too hard... Don't know if that would work anyway.
How I constructed my Hots cowling: Remove the engine and mount and trace a "footprint" of the front end -- i.e. firewall and perimeter sheeting onto a sheet of paper. Do the same with the spinner backplate and also mark the center. The firewall area tracing should look like the profile of a house with the apex lopped off. To allow for sheeting thickness, redraw the front end "footprint" inside the first by 3/32" -- this is the firewall-end former pattern. Make the same, proportionately smaller drawing inside the spinner backplate circle with the corners clearing by 3/32" -- this is the spinner-end former pattern. Adhere the templates to 1/16" ply and cut out using favorite tool(s). Cut a round or square hole to clear the engine mount in the firewall-end former. Enlarge the hole in the spinner former so that it just presses on the drive washer of the engine. Now, tack glue the firewall former to the firewall, install engine and mount, and press the spinner-end former on the drive washer. Hack out a 1/32~1/16" thick piece of something with a 1/4" hole to use as a spacer between the spinner backplate and spinner-end former. Now, just sheet the bottom and sides with 3/32" balsa sheeting. At this point, the incomplete cowling can be pulled off the airplane to complete the sheeting process. Lastly, cut and fit cowl to clear engine. Finished using epoxy finishing resin then sanded and painted with Formula-U. On the first cowling I made I tried to disguise the squareness with those cheesy-looking cheeks. Later, I leaned my engine installation over 45 degrees, built a new cowl and added balsa to all sides and sanded/shaped to fair in nicely with the spinner backplate. Never got pictures of it.
Another Dave
10-07-2006, 10:53 PM
#32
Senior Member
RE: Another Hots!
I just ordered the plans for the Hots. I've scratch built wings, stab ilizers and pieces like that but this will be my first 100% scratch built airplane. Is there anything about building thiks plane I should know before getting into it?
10-08-2006, 07:38 PM
#33
RE: Another Hots!
ChuckW,
If you're building for glow power, you may want to consider providing access to the fuel tank as matt13 did on his -- the design as intended provides no access in front of the spar. I found the 6 oz tank size was adequate for a K&B .40. I used a Sullivan RST-6. The stopper was at the very front of the tank and I cut a hole in the firewall just large enough to accommodate the stopper. Pay attention to tank center-line and carb inlet when mounting your engine (not an issue if you're going electric)
. I had no right thrust in mine. Choose light wood for the tail. Keep the pushrods straight, and hinge-lines tight.
There is lots of information throughout this thread. Check out the very helpful materials list by dbacque earlier in the thread if you need to buy wood.
dki
If you're building for glow power, you may want to consider providing access to the fuel tank as matt13 did on his -- the design as intended provides no access in front of the spar. I found the 6 oz tank size was adequate for a K&B .40. I used a Sullivan RST-6. The stopper was at the very front of the tank and I cut a hole in the firewall just large enough to accommodate the stopper. Pay attention to tank center-line and carb inlet when mounting your engine (not an issue if you're going electric)
. I had no right thrust in mine. Choose light wood for the tail. Keep the pushrods straight, and hinge-lines tight.There is lots of information throughout this thread. Check out the very helpful materials list by dbacque earlier in the thread if you need to buy wood.
dki
10-08-2006, 10:58 PM
#34
RE: Another Hots!
It's not easy, but if you use a flex tank you can get it out through the hatch. Barely. I always tie a strong piece of cord around the tank so I can pull it out and with the flex tank you can just barely get it out. Getting it back in is even tougher but it is possible. By the way, I'm doing this with an 8 oz. flex tank and I've pulled them many times. I also drill a large hole in the firewall. When construction is complete and the tank and fuel lines are in place, I fill the area with silicone to seal the oil out.
The materials list I made up was for comparision purposes only. It was done from memory and should be checked against the plans for exact requirements.
One hint for you. When you cut the upper fuselage sides, cut them a little oversize to start. When doing the aft upper fuse side, put it in place and sand to fit to the vertical former. Then mark where the top should be cut. Before you glue this piece in, glue in a small strip of 1/16" blasa inside the lower fuselage side, slightly overhanging the top. This will give you a ledge to help align the upper and lower side pieces.
Forward upper fuse sheeting should be done in a similar way. Cut slightly oversize and sand to fit. Once both sides are glued on, then sand the top edges down flush with the former and firewall.
Dave
The materials list I made up was for comparision purposes only. It was done from memory and should be checked against the plans for exact requirements.
One hint for you. When you cut the upper fuselage sides, cut them a little oversize to start. When doing the aft upper fuse side, put it in place and sand to fit to the vertical former. Then mark where the top should be cut. Before you glue this piece in, glue in a small strip of 1/16" blasa inside the lower fuselage side, slightly overhanging the top. This will give you a ledge to help align the upper and lower side pieces.
Forward upper fuse sheeting should be done in a similar way. Cut slightly oversize and sand to fit. Once both sides are glued on, then sand the top edges down flush with the former and firewall.
Dave
11-25-2006, 11:51 AM
#35
RE: Another Hots!
I just opened my Electric Hots kit and found no instruction manual. Can anyone help with this? I'll take an old used dogeared one or a copy even.
thanks
Brian
thanks
Brian
11-27-2006, 12:54 AM
#38
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RE: Another Hots!
hey guys building a new hot hots here and have a couple of questions is it possible to put a tail wheel on it and if so which one should i use and where in the heck can i find the right leading and trailing edges for it i looked at a couple of stores and cant find the right cut so any help would be great and i am trying to find the january 2002 article of rcm for the construction article does anyone have it photocopied or know where i can get it i am not a subscriber to rcm and cant afford it so any help would be greatly appreciated god bless and thanks
derrick brunson
[email protected]
derrick brunson
[email protected]
12-03-2006, 11:06 AM
#40
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RE: Another Hots!
I am planning to build a Hot Hots and intend to use a one eighth leading edge sanded (bevelled really ) to shape on top and bottom edges, and glue the sheeting over the leading edge. The sheeting is fitted slightly wide and sanded flush. Note the first layer of LE has to be reduced by the thickness of the sheeting while the sheeting has to be increased in width . After sheeting is sanded flush, another layer of eighth leading edge is glued on front and sanded to shape. A centre line drawn on the final LE helps shaping to be symmetrical. Stronger cheaper and easier this way -the sheeting to leading edge joint has much more glue area. You need to use a sandable glue though- (aliphatic glue or cyano or balsa cement.) or the glue will pull out when sanding.
The photo shows red first LE and blue sheeting while the last layer of LE applied after sanding sheeting back is shown yellow.[img][/image
To bevel the edges or shape the raw balsa before fixing to wing I often use a few small pieces of double sided tape to stick the balsa to the edge of a piece of MDF or melamine coated chipboard. Then I use a razor plane and a Permagrit sander to shape the balsa. Carefully rip/ peel the balsa off the tape and turn it around to shape the other edge.
Much the same with the trailing edge.
I also intend to use a ply doubler (one thirtysecond ) on the fuselage, from engine bulkhead to near the servo tray. Also to use a piano wire torsion bar type undercarriage which is a bit more springy than a dural one. This will mean replacing the ply u/c plate with a 3/4 x 1/2 beech u/c bearer and fixing small ply plates with slots to the fus sides for the u/c.
The photo shows red first LE and blue sheeting while the last layer of LE applied after sanding sheeting back is shown yellow.[img][/image
To bevel the edges or shape the raw balsa before fixing to wing I often use a few small pieces of double sided tape to stick the balsa to the edge of a piece of MDF or melamine coated chipboard. Then I use a razor plane and a Permagrit sander to shape the balsa. Carefully rip/ peel the balsa off the tape and turn it around to shape the other edge.
Much the same with the trailing edge.
I also intend to use a ply doubler (one thirtysecond ) on the fuselage, from engine bulkhead to near the servo tray. Also to use a piano wire torsion bar type undercarriage which is a bit more springy than a dural one. This will mean replacing the ply u/c plate with a 3/4 x 1/2 beech u/c bearer and fixing small ply plates with slots to the fus sides for the u/c.
02-20-2007, 03:38 AM
#42
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RE: Another Hots!
http://www.dansantichmodels.net/
check it out...
here are a few pics of my new Super Hots....old wing new fuse. It was previously .61 powered with a pipe..then I did an electric conversion on it with a 4120/16 - 13x10 prop - 77 amp esc - 5s3700mah lipo. The new one will be built specifically for e-power. I am using a 4130/16 - 17x10 prop - 77amp esc - 3700mah 6s. Should be finished in about a week
check it out...
here are a few pics of my new Super Hots....old wing new fuse. It was previously .61 powered with a pipe..then I did an electric conversion on it with a 4120/16 - 13x10 prop - 77 amp esc - 5s3700mah lipo. The new one will be built specifically for e-power. I am using a 4130/16 - 17x10 prop - 77amp esc - 3700mah 6s. Should be finished in about a week
05-16-2007, 11:44 PM
#44
Senior Member
RE: Another Hots!
I finally got to work on mine. It's almost done. Just need to work on the radio gear installation and cover it. As you can see, I modified the wing a little to use dual aileron servos. I know this plane doesn't need it and there is a small weight penalty. I wanted to make the fuse a little less crowded though by removing the aileron servo and linkage.
05-17-2007, 12:00 AM
#45
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RE: Another Hots!
Hi Guys,
Finally finished my Super Hots. Here are a few pics. You can see how I did the pull-pull rudder and dual elevator servo setup. I used independent aileron servos also and it has a gross amount of power. Definitely the best flying hots I have ever built.
Finally finished my Super Hots. Here are a few pics. You can see how I did the pull-pull rudder and dual elevator servo setup. I used independent aileron servos also and it has a gross amount of power. Definitely the best flying hots I have ever built.
06-18-2007, 06:06 PM
#47
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RE: Another Hots!
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06-27-2007, 02:34 PM
#49
RE: Another Hots!
ORIGINAL: glowplug50
Why are you guys making the wing tips so hard? Thet are supposed to be flat at the end. The last rib is the wing tip.
Why are you guys making the wing tips so hard? Thet are supposed to be flat at the end. The last rib is the wing tip.
06-27-2007, 02:51 PM
#50
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RE: Another Hots!
I guess so, I have never seen any of them with tapered tips. I built my first 60 size hots in the 80s, had the 40 size one also. Saw several versions of the Big hots and Giant Hots and even had a fun fly hots, all with flat tips.
Must have missed your version along the way.. Best flying sport plane ever
Must have missed your version along the way.. Best flying sport plane ever