Big Stick 40 Flaps
02-16-2008, 07:04 PM
#2
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RE: Big Stick 40 Flaps
Thoughts?? [
]
Why? [:'(]
A Stick is by design a simple plane, it has survived some 40 years virtually unchanged because of it's simplicity.
Flaps are used to shorten a take off or landing by changing the air flow around a wing on a heavy AC or for a short runway - the lift generated by a Stick design is such that a if you have a properly sized engine for your model the take off and landing space required is minimal.
IF you are just having a good time experimenting with a new idea... OK that is what a Stick is for.
BUT - YOU DO NOT NEED FLAPS ON A STICK!! [:@]
]Why? [:'(]
A Stick is by design a simple plane, it has survived some 40 years virtually unchanged because of it's simplicity.
Flaps are used to shorten a take off or landing by changing the air flow around a wing on a heavy AC or for a short runway - the lift generated by a Stick design is such that a if you have a properly sized engine for your model the take off and landing space required is minimal.
IF you are just having a good time experimenting with a new idea... OK that is what a Stick is for.
BUT - YOU DO NOT NEED FLAPS ON A STICK!! [:@]
02-16-2008, 08:22 PM
#3
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RE: Big Stick 40 Flaps
I would say only do flaps if you want more out of your plane. They are not needed for good flight. If you do do flaps, i recommend that you use a computer radio to program crow and other mixes just like the US 40.
Farr301
Farr301
02-17-2008, 12:42 PM
#4
RE: Big Stick 40 Flaps
there is a club member at my field who has a giant stick with flaps, he never uses them, he says they're not necessary. but this is modeling, recreating a smaller version of a real thing. big planes use flaps, why not put them on for the heck of it. i love seeing a well done warbird coming in for a landing with full flaps dropped. looks like the real thing. our planes don't need strobe/landing lights but they get put on anyway. same as the Stuka dive bomber at our field with a dive siren. doesn't need it to fly or dive it's just there because the real one has it. i say go for it.
david
david
02-21-2008, 07:06 PM
#5
RE: Big Stick 40 Flaps
A couple of things hud-n-otoo, split flaps are the wing is split with the flap being on the bottom and the top of the wing unchanged.
As has been mentioned, a Stick doesn't really need flaps, but they can be fun to play with. You can do them 2 ways. First is to just set a Flaperon wing type and use the whole aileron as a flap. Works fine. The second way is the cut off 6 inches of the inner part of the aileron and power it as a separate flap.
Our models have a fairly light wing loading so flaps on take off can be exciting if you aren't expecting it. If you put down 45 degrees of flaps and hit full power, the plane will lift off with very little ground roll, especially if you have a good .46 or larger in your Stick. The plane will keep on pitching up until you hold in some down elevator or raise the flaps. On a plane with a lot of power, you can STOL or nearly vertical take off. The prop blast hits the flaps and the front of the plane just lifts off.
On a light plane, flaps for landing don't really do much except make you float further. It really takes 60 degrees of down flap, preferrably more, to add enough drag to overcome the extra lift.
Some people set up crow, which is flaps down and ailerons up for a high drag condition. I have done this on 2 planes, but find I tire of it quickly. If you are interested in this, the programming is found in the Ultra Stick manual which you can download from the Horizon web site.
Flaperons are fairly popular. You can dial them down like flaps or have them work opposite to the elevator for tight maneuvers. I use flaperons on all my Sticks. For windy days and spot landings, I prefer spoilers. I mix throttle-master and flaps-slave. I set a switch to arm them, then program the flaps (both ailerons) to move upwards about 3/4"-1". They start coming up at half throttle and are fully deployed at idle. This gives you a steeper descent which you can control with power for a nice spot landing. Adding power also lowers the spoilers a little so you cut your descent two ways. It also works well in the wind to keep your plane from floating. On a touch and go, as soon as you add power, the spoilers drop back down into the normal aileron position. Of course you still have roll control with the spoilers up.
I am attaching photos of several of my Sticks. The only one I still don't have is the Big Stick, which I gave away as it was getting old. I had used it to test 15 different engines. Yes, they all have anhedral. This stops them from rolling in knife edge.
As has been mentioned, a Stick doesn't really need flaps, but they can be fun to play with. You can do them 2 ways. First is to just set a Flaperon wing type and use the whole aileron as a flap. Works fine. The second way is the cut off 6 inches of the inner part of the aileron and power it as a separate flap.
Our models have a fairly light wing loading so flaps on take off can be exciting if you aren't expecting it. If you put down 45 degrees of flaps and hit full power, the plane will lift off with very little ground roll, especially if you have a good .46 or larger in your Stick. The plane will keep on pitching up until you hold in some down elevator or raise the flaps. On a plane with a lot of power, you can STOL or nearly vertical take off. The prop blast hits the flaps and the front of the plane just lifts off.
On a light plane, flaps for landing don't really do much except make you float further. It really takes 60 degrees of down flap, preferrably more, to add enough drag to overcome the extra lift.
Some people set up crow, which is flaps down and ailerons up for a high drag condition. I have done this on 2 planes, but find I tire of it quickly. If you are interested in this, the programming is found in the Ultra Stick manual which you can download from the Horizon web site.
Flaperons are fairly popular. You can dial them down like flaps or have them work opposite to the elevator for tight maneuvers. I use flaperons on all my Sticks. For windy days and spot landings, I prefer spoilers. I mix throttle-master and flaps-slave. I set a switch to arm them, then program the flaps (both ailerons) to move upwards about 3/4"-1". They start coming up at half throttle and are fully deployed at idle. This gives you a steeper descent which you can control with power for a nice spot landing. Adding power also lowers the spoilers a little so you cut your descent two ways. It also works well in the wind to keep your plane from floating. On a touch and go, as soon as you add power, the spoilers drop back down into the normal aileron position. Of course you still have roll control with the spoilers up.
I am attaching photos of several of my Sticks. The only one I still don't have is the Big Stick, which I gave away as it was getting old. I had used it to test 15 different engines. Yes, they all have anhedral. This stops them from rolling in knife edge.
02-21-2008, 07:19 PM
#6
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RE: Big Stick 40 Flaps
I setup flaperons on my Midwest Stick.. I don't use em much but it'll slow down to a crawl when I do.
When I land with them the rollout is about 15 feet.
When I land with them the rollout is about 15 feet.
07-23-2008, 06:11 PM
#7
RE: Big Stick 40 Flaps
ORIGINAL: Ed_Moorman
A couple of things hud-n-otoo, split flaps are the wing is split with the flap being on the bottom and the top of the wing unchanged.
As has been mentioned, a Stick doesn't really need flaps, but they can be fun to play with. You can do them 2 ways. First is to just set a Flaperon wing type and use the whole aileron as a flap. Works fine. The second way is the cut off 6 inches of the inner part of the aileron and power it as a separate flap.
Our models have a fairly light wing loading so flaps on take off can be exciting if you aren't expecting it. If you put down 45 degrees of flaps and hit full power, the plane will lift off with very little ground roll, especially if you have a good .46 or larger in your Stick. The plane will keep on pitching up until you hold in some down elevator or raise the flaps. On a plane with a lot of power, you can STOL or nearly vertical take off. The prop blast hits the flaps and the front of the plane just lifts off.
On a light plane, flaps for landing don't really do much except make you float further. It really takes 60 degrees of down flap, preferrably more, to add enough drag to overcome the extra lift.
Some people set up crow, which is flaps down and ailerons up for a high drag condition. I have done this on 2 planes, but find I tire of it quickly. If you are interested in this, the programming is found in the Ultra Stick manual which you can download from the Horizon web site.
Flaperons are fairly popular. You can dial them down like flaps or have them work opposite to the elevator for tight maneuvers. I use flaperons on all my Sticks. For windy days and spot landings, I prefer spoilers. I mix throttle-master and flaps-slave. I set a switch to arm them, then program the flaps (both ailerons) to move upwards about 3/4"-1". They start coming up at half throttle and are fully deployed at idle. This gives you a steeper descent which you can control with power for a nice spot landing. Adding power also lowers the spoilers a little so you cut your descent two ways. It also works well in the wind to keep your plane from floating. On a touch and go, as soon as you add power, the spoilers drop back down into the normal aileron position. Of course you still have roll control with the spoilers up.
I am attaching photos of several of my Sticks. The only one I still don't have is the Big Stick, which I gave away as it was getting old. I had used it to test 15 different engines. Yes, they all have anhedral. This stops them from rolling in knife edge.
A couple of things hud-n-otoo, split flaps are the wing is split with the flap being on the bottom and the top of the wing unchanged.
As has been mentioned, a Stick doesn't really need flaps, but they can be fun to play with. You can do them 2 ways. First is to just set a Flaperon wing type and use the whole aileron as a flap. Works fine. The second way is the cut off 6 inches of the inner part of the aileron and power it as a separate flap.
Our models have a fairly light wing loading so flaps on take off can be exciting if you aren't expecting it. If you put down 45 degrees of flaps and hit full power, the plane will lift off with very little ground roll, especially if you have a good .46 or larger in your Stick. The plane will keep on pitching up until you hold in some down elevator or raise the flaps. On a plane with a lot of power, you can STOL or nearly vertical take off. The prop blast hits the flaps and the front of the plane just lifts off.
On a light plane, flaps for landing don't really do much except make you float further. It really takes 60 degrees of down flap, preferrably more, to add enough drag to overcome the extra lift.
Some people set up crow, which is flaps down and ailerons up for a high drag condition. I have done this on 2 planes, but find I tire of it quickly. If you are interested in this, the programming is found in the Ultra Stick manual which you can download from the Horizon web site.
Flaperons are fairly popular. You can dial them down like flaps or have them work opposite to the elevator for tight maneuvers. I use flaperons on all my Sticks. For windy days and spot landings, I prefer spoilers. I mix throttle-master and flaps-slave. I set a switch to arm them, then program the flaps (both ailerons) to move upwards about 3/4"-1". They start coming up at half throttle and are fully deployed at idle. This gives you a steeper descent which you can control with power for a nice spot landing. Adding power also lowers the spoilers a little so you cut your descent two ways. It also works well in the wind to keep your plane from floating. On a touch and go, as soon as you add power, the spoilers drop back down into the normal aileron position. Of course you still have roll control with the spoilers up.
I am attaching photos of several of my Sticks. The only one I still don't have is the Big Stick, which I gave away as it was getting old. I had used it to test 15 different engines. Yes, they all have anhedral. This stops them from rolling in knife edge.
