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HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

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Old 09-22-2012, 01:20 AM
  #376  
ahamay
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: ingleburn


ORIGINAL: ahamay


ORIGINAL: ingleburn
@ Jonesy. Interested in how your heli flew with the raised limits. Maybe Rotorboy is onto something.
ok, so Isetup the new 450 with as much cyclic pitch as I could which turned out to be around 11.5 degrees before it was binding so I backed it off to 10 degrees. No problems with the way it handled, in fact Iwould say overall it was smoother. Itried...with my limited skill level...to bog the motor with as much collective and cyclic as Icould but it was fine. I'm still running the old firmware on the zyx v1 not that Ithink this will solve the 3.5 bug and Ithink Iread Simon had already maxed out his cyclic and it made no difference.

As Isee no adverse effects of this I'll set my other 450 up the same. It's interseting that the Blade 450x has a max of 6 deg of cyclic pitch default as per the manual. I know it's not the same bird, but this does have a beastx and fbl principles still apply.

I"m really happy with the extra headspeed running the 13t pinion and flat 100%, so I'll put a 13t on my other 450 as well.

I'm also very happy so far with the tgy-306g servo on the tail as it's super fast and is holding the tail really well.

Jonesy

Thanks for the info Jonesy, good to hear.
As for the Beastx something that you may not know.
The hobbymate I have which is a clone and setup the same way makes you set up for 6 deg of cyclic and the next step is to set up max pitch till just before it binds.
So Im taking it as the 6 deg is a reference for stick movement and the max pitch is what the gyro can use to correct when its in the air.
If you want to fly it harder you then can then adjust the control behaviour is the setup which I take will give you more pitch via the sticks.Its similar to adjusting agility in the ZYX.

Just replaced the main shaft in the pro and will set cyclic to 10 deg as well and see how it goes.
BTW my DS415M's that were slop free 7 flights ago now have slop.Maybe that was the cause of the oscillations.

Just had a read of the beastx manual and Iagree as per above. What I think has been noted as cylic pitch with the zyx is the total cyclic pitch is just the amount available for the gyro to correct, not the amount that your going to be using via the sticks which as you said appears to be the agility setting and not so much the total pitch range but the speed at which it deflects.





Old 09-22-2012, 10:55 PM
  #377  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

Hey guys -

Still alive; been doin' hard time in Babylon, workin' muh tuchus off trying to catch up on some bills.

Been practicin' my butt off with the 4ch V911 and 9958s; I know they're not really CP, but they at least it's unteaching me all the bad habits learned by flying coaxials. Actually managed 3 packs this afternoon without any crashes. I did have a minor difference of opinion with the kite-eating-tree in the neighbor's yard which was easily resolved by rocking the blades until it came loose; I even managed to fly it down instead of just letting it flop!

I've been working on my HK450GT too; got the head & tail rebuilt, still trying to get it all square again. I'm beginning to think maybe my seesaw is bent. If it gives me too much more hassle I'll just put a whole new head on it from one of the Aeolian kits I have in "The Big Box O' Fun".

My Genius CP has earned a stay of execution; some investigation into a crooked FBL Gyro/RX plate yielded a possible culprit. Parts are on the way, hopefully with a cure. If it works as others have sworn it can work, I may be jump-starting my EXI 450Pro build with one of those HobbyMate FBL/DFC combos.

*Looks again*Hey, they're on fleaBay now too. Kewlies! US Warehouse! Ugghh! $10 Shipping! But... US Warehouse!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Seller-Ho...510#vi-content

Have you guys seen this?

http://www.oomodel.com/devil-450-alz...a-p-63941.html

I realize it's just a skin job on a 450Pro clone, but it does have the SDC/DFC FBL Head and the Align-style swash with perpendicular balls for the uplinks.

http://www.oomodel.com/alzrc-devil-4...k-p-63549.html

Guh-niffty! I bet even my tired old eyes could see that thing in the air!

mnem
*ker-plunk... ZZZzzzZZZzzz*
Old 09-23-2012, 07:21 AM
  #378  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

Hey guy's here is a couple of vdeos of yesterdays flying
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oi8KTIbWU78[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcSraxQN7AM[/youtube]
Old 09-23-2012, 07:41 AM
  #379  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

@ Mnem - Cool finds! Kind of a shame I'ma workin' my way out of 450 stuff!

@ Bryan - Great flyin'. How do you keep sight of that thing???

@ Hugh - I swear TJ's tail fin was going to wobble into the tail blades at ANY moment! Good lookin' bird!

At home with the "Lurgy" ATM!

b
Old 09-23-2012, 09:24 AM
  #380  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

Brian,

There are times I can't see it that well.  I guess that being used to flying the planks, I tend to use the whole field.  Maybe, one day, I will put my big girl panties on and fly it closer.

TJ has blade balance issues that we discussed with him yesterday.  I think he will have it sorted today, we will see this afternoon.
B
Old 09-23-2012, 11:32 AM
  #381  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

Hey guy's sorrry about the videos i guess the upload to youtube had problems. I will give it another shot tonight.
Hugh
Old 09-23-2012, 02:56 PM
  #382  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: pushinoldrc

Brian,

There are times I can't see it that well. I guess that being used to flying the planks, I tend to use the whole field. Maybe, one day, I will put my big girl panties on and fly it closer.

TJ has blade balance issues that we discussed with him yesterday. I think he will have it sorted today, we will see this afternoon.
B

Yah, all you folk who have flown planks previously are at a distinct advantage!

I started with heli's and, in effect, really don't have a successful plank flight to date!

Yah, keep your big girl panties on and keep flyin' a distance!

All the best!

b
Old 09-24-2012, 03:48 AM
  #383  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

Phoenix has another update and has added the Eflite MQX Quad.........dont get too excited...they are boring as bat*****....not for me.

Jonesy


Old 09-24-2012, 10:56 AM
  #384  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

Good afternoon kidz!

Went out flyin' this AM and filmed same but the "file format is not supported"! Grrrrr!

In short, I took the MQX out to illustrate to Jonesy that, for the most part, he is right. The 1st 100 flights were fun but now, not so much!

I then took the HK450GT T/T "Terror Pigeon for a ride in a measure to test why is the dang thing "ballooning"!

I preflighted it and all good! Flew it in the front yard and after about 45 sec I felt, again a "loss of lift"???!!?? ***. I didn't hear any degradation of speed??

The prior three flights ended with me "setting down" and then the craft slowing tipping over and the blades spooling down biting the grass! Grrrrrr. I got a ding on my tube to show for the last prior to this!

So's I said to myself, "self" ***??? Is my ESC dying??

So's I spooled it up on the ground, wide open, and then waited!

I attempted to lift up and found that the left aileron NOT functioning. B@STARD!

Now I need to do some self aggrandizing!

If it were not for my MAD skillz, I would have crashed that dang thing many times previously!

NO left aileron in the middle of my last four flights!

I'm an awesome pilot, like wayyyy better than Simon OR Bryan!!

Anyhoooooooooo, decision point. I'm fresh out of 922's but happen to have a full set of 410's.

These little heli's are SUCH a PIA to work on though, I bet it will take me HOURS to replace them cyclics! Grrrrrrr!

What to do? What to do??

Anyhooo,

I hope all is well in YOUR worlds!

b
Old 09-24-2012, 04:14 PM
  #385  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

You are definitely a better pilot than me to be able to fly 4 FLIGHTS with no left aileron!  The last time I tried that cost me a very nice biplank just after take-off.
Glad you had fun, and I really hate that you will have to re-rig and setup the heli again.
B
Old 09-24-2012, 04:46 PM
  #386  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: pushinoldrc

You are definitely a better pilot than me to be able to fly 4 FLIGHTS with no left aileron! The last time I tried that cost me a very nice biplank just after take-off.
Glad you had fun, and I really hate that you will have to re-rig and setup the heli again.
B

In all fairness it would fail in mid air and I was able to bring it down each time. Truth is, I was too stooooopid to do what I did this morning and check for an intermittent servo failure! I'm kind of the "anti-Simon" when it comes to scientific method![:@]

Yah the re-riging sux! It's a morning job to replace and re tune the new cyclics. On the 500, it's less than an hour job! Grrrrrrr![:'(]

If only I had the hands of a small [link=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_monkey]Capuchin Monkey[/link] or better yet, Simon! You know, very tiny little Thai Ladyboy size hands that could refirb my tiny little 450!

Oh well, prolly Friday morning I will do the surgery!

All the best!

b
Old 09-24-2012, 04:49 PM
  #387  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

Mmmmhmmm.... Bob... perhaps now would be a good time to reiterate the importance of doing a complete pre-flight EVERYTIME?

Cuz if even an experienced pilot like youzz can have a gremlin that escapes 4 times... the rest of us mere mortals don't stand a chance. And when you spray him with RAID, make sure you kill 'im DEAD. I don't want the lil' bastahd to decide itz time to move WEST across the Gulf.

[EDIT]Seriously though... that's why I was all bent out of shape that I couldn't find those mounting plates for my 450GT; they turn replacing those servos into a 15 min job.

mnem
Don't need those skeevy FLgremlins coming over here and breeding with muh pedigreed TXAngus gremlins... totally spoil the taste of the meat.
Old 09-24-2012, 05:00 PM
  #388  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: mnemennth

Mmmmhmmm.... Bob... perhaps now would be a good time to reiterate the importance of doing a complete pre-flight EVERY TIME?

Cuz if even an experienced pilot like youzz can have a gremlin that escapes 4 times... the rest of us mere mortals don't stand a chance. [img][/img] And when you spray him with RAID, make sure you kill 'im DEAD. I don't want the lil' bastahd to decide itz time to move WEST across the Gulf. [img][/img]

[EDIT]Seriously though... that's why I was all bent out of shape that I couldn't find those mounting plates for my 450GT; they turn replacing those servos into a 15 min job.

mnem
Don't need those skeevy FL gremlins coming over here and breeding with muh pedigreed TX Angus gremlins... totally spoil the taste of the meat. [img][/img]
I actually would have never found the problem until I ran the thing on the ground for over a minute!

Funny how lovely intermittent problems are!

I should have ran it after the 2nd time but frankly I'm too goofy!

A careful pre-lfight would have never caught it! I simply should have "dry run" the bird earlier!

This is precisely why I have no overtures toward actually being a real pilot.

In short order I would fall out of the sky like a bag of wet mice!

b
Old 09-24-2012, 06:11 PM
  #389  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

I have not done very well with the pre-flight thingy either.  It seems I find my problems at 75ft AGL. 
Had a wonderful time yesterday with the boyz, and actually took everything home in the same number of pieces that I started with. Sorry, no video.
TJ's 600 flew great until about 1/2 of the second tank.  I think the battery lead to the receiver came loose, and it piro'ed real hard into the ground from about 6 ft.
600mm blades in multiple pieces, blown front umbrella gear (drive), and maybe a bent main shaft. 
He was heart broken, but I was very happy that I wasn't at the sticks.
He should be ready to go again after he saves up for more $80 blades.
B
Old 09-24-2012, 07:44 PM
  #390  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

Oh, no Bob... I wasn't suggesting that you HADN'T done a thorough pre-flight; I was using your case as an example of WHYthey're so important. Even WITH pre-flights every time, this intermittent fault escaped repeatedly. Now imagine how much longer or how much more dangerous the situation could have been if you hadn't been doing them religiously.

Hey... I've crashed & rebuilt my HK450 a few *coughBAZILLIONcough* times; and I've come up with a few tricks for keeping things tidy yet still easy to tear down & put back together.

Here's a quick overview; maybe some others here can benefit.

http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/...view=slideshow


mnem
No, I won't duct tape your hamster into it. Not just yet...

Old 09-24-2012, 07:54 PM
  #391  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

ORIGINAL: mnemennth
Oh, no Bob... I wasn't suggesting that you HADN'T done a thorough pre-flight; I was using your case as an example of WHYthey're so important. Even WITH pre-flights every time, this intermittent fault escaped repeatedly. Now imagine how much longer or how much more dangerous the situation could have been if you hadn't been doing them religiously.
Hey... I've crashed & rebuilt my HK450 a few *coughBAZILLIONcough* times; and I've come up with a few tricks for keeping things tidy yet still easy to tear down & put back together.
Here's a quick overview; maybe some others here can benefit.
http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/...view=slideshow
mnem
No, I won't duct tape your hamster into it. Not just yet...
Best way to replace those front servos in a SE, v2 etc is to split your servo. Take the case off and feed one half in and then put the case on and the screws back in. Otherwise you have to do surgery on the frame to get them out. That way they are installed from the inside so the arms are straight.

Jonesy

Old 09-24-2012, 08:23 PM
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: ahamay

ORIGINAL: mnemennth
Oh, no Bob... I wasn't suggesting that you HADN'T done a thorough pre-flight; I was using your case as an example of WHYthey're so important. Even WITH pre-flights every time, this intermittent fault escaped repeatedly. Now imagine how much longer or how much more dangerous the situation could have been if you hadn't been doing them religiously.
Hey... I've crashed & rebuilt my HK450 a few *coughBAZILLIONcough* times; and I've come up with a few tricks for keeping things tidy yet still easy to tear down & put back together.
Here's a quick overview; maybe some others here can benefit.
http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/...view=slideshow
mnem
No, I won't duct tape your hamster into it. Not just yet...
Best way to replace those front servos in a SE, v2 etc is to split your servo. Take the case off and feed one half in and then put the case on and the screws back in. Otherwise you have to do surgery on the frame to get them out. That way they are installed from the inside so the arms are straight.

Jonesy

Aww, come on Jonesy - they ain't THATbad. I just take out the little crossbar over top of the servos & the two top/front bearing block screws. you only need like 1mm to get them in there whole, and even CF will flex that much.

The PITA part is those tiny nuts; the HK450 is a pretty faithful clone, so it doesn't have the blind nuts in the frame. I almost soldered a loop of wire between 'em to make a easy handle this go-round, but I already had my head out to rebuild so I sucked it up & used the needle-nosed pliers.

I've done it both ways; like I sed; I'm not worried about it until I start doing real flying. Besides, I think the CF arms will be a good workaround. Even when you put the HXT900s in from the inside, they're STILL about a mm out of plumb; with the CF/spacer route, I can get it perfect. If I care. Which will depend entirely on how much "special time" I've had with the other machines in my life...

mnem
*Also slightly out of plumb*

Old 09-25-2012, 03:43 AM
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: mnemennth

Oh, no Bob... I wasn't suggesting that you HADN'T done a thorough pre-flight; I was using your case as an example of WHYthey're so important. Even WITH pre-flights every time, this intermittent fault escaped repeatedly. Now imagine how much longer or how much more dangerous the situation could have been if you hadn't been doing them religiously.

Hey... I've crashed & rebuilt my HK450 a few *coughBAZILLIONcough* times; and I've come up with a few tricks for keeping things tidy yet still easy to tear down & put back together.

Here's a quick overview; maybe some others here can benefit.

http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/...view=slideshow


mnem
No, I won't duct tape your hamster into it. Not just yet...

Very nice slide show! You have a lot of good ideas packed in there too. I use the Turnigy MG90S servos on my v2, and they must be mounted from the inside as the geometry is way out. (I think it has a taller gear section).
I am really beginning to think that the geometry of the control rods to the swash isn't so critical as long as the angles are similar. My HDX places the servos in a triangle around the mast, and there is no way I can get them perfect, but it flys well with no adverse cross controls.
Ihave it set up with the Align 3G system, and it is a joy to fly.
Iwill get some pics later this evening of it so ya'll can see the neat way it is set up.
B

Old 09-25-2012, 03:45 AM
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: mnemennth


Aww, come on Jonesy - they ain't THATbad. I just take out the little crossbar over top of the servos & the two top/front bearing block screws. you only need like 1mm to get them in there whole, and even CF will flex that much.

The PITA part is those tiny nuts; the HK450 is a pretty faithful clone, so it doesn't have the blind nuts in the frame. I almost soldered a loop of wire between 'em to make a easy handle this go-round, but I already had my head out to rebuild so I sucked it up & used the needle-nosed pliers.

I've done it both ways; like I sed; I'm not worried about it until I start doing real flying. Besides, I think the CF arms will be a good workaround. Even when you put the HXT900s in from the inside, they're STILL about a mm out of plumb; with the CF/spacer route, I can get it perfect. If I care. Which will depend entirely on how much "special time" I've had with the other machines in my life...

mnem
*Also slightly out of plumb*

Ifound that if you use servo arm ends as plastic nuts, they are much easier to get into place than metal nuts.

Old 09-25-2012, 04:05 AM
  #395  
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: rikybob

Good afternoon kidz!

Went out flyin' this AM and filmed same but the "file format is not supported"! Grrrrr!

In short, I took the MQX out to illustrate to Jonesy that, for the most part, he is right. The 1st 100 flights were fun but now, not so much!

I then took the HK450GT T/T "Terror Pigeon for a ride in a measure to test why is the dang thing "ballooning"!

I preflighted it and all good! Flew it in the front yard and after about 45 sec I felt, again a "loss of lift"???!!?? ***. I didn't hear any degradation of speed??

The prior three flights ended with me "setting down" and then the craft slowing tipping over and the blades spooling down biting the grass! Grrrrrr. I got a ding on my tube to show for the last prior to this!

So's I said to myself, "self" ***??? Is my ESC dying??

So's I spooled it up on the ground, wide open, and then waited!

I attempted to lift up and found that the left aileron NOT functioning. B@STARD!

Now I need to do some self aggrandizing!

If it were not for my MAD skillz, I would have crashed that dang thing many times previously!

NO left aileron in the middle of my last four flights!

I'm an awesome pilot, like wayyyy better than Simon OR Bryan!!

Anyhoooooooooo, decision point. I'm fresh out of 922's but happen to have a full set of 410's.

These little heli's are SUCH a PIA to work on though, I bet it will take me HOURS to replace them cyclics! Grrrrrrr!

What to do? What to do??

Anyhooo,

I hope all is well in YOUR worlds!

b
All I can say is lucky you got rid of the flybar or else your heli would have been toast a few flights ago.
Crazy how the ZYX will try and keep it flying.
As for servos, I have a set of Simon servos which apparently fit on the ouside of the frame so when mine next takes a tumble those will be going straight in.

Got the Hobbymate gyro installed and hoping to test it out in the next couple of days.

Old 09-25-2012, 04:20 AM
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

You know B... that is a damn good idea. I've used rod ends as thumbscrews to hold panels in place; dunno why it never occurred to me to use 'em for servos. Guess I just got all tied up in being p!ssed off that I couldn't find my mounting plates. Thanks for the compliments on the slideshow; the HK is my oldest PITA... err, heli... I've got it worked out mechanically pretty well. On the MG90s, you put the ball ends on the inside between the arm and the chassis plate like this pic, with one of these washers upside-down as a spacer. Gets the geometry almost perfect. The plastic arms will handle the torque of 1 of those used as a spacer; I need more than that which is why I want the stiffness of the CF servo arms.

On the HDX I've got half-built (Actually, I started with a bare STK SuperFrame) I used them as spacers to get my HTX900 servos centered properly; I think I've read somewhere that it is designed for Align 410MG servos, and if you use them they form a "perfect circle" cyclic geometry which is as close to absolutely symmetrical as you can get. I've noticed that the Goblin uses similar geometry in their head, so I think HDX got something right. I dunno why everybody dumped them for the Align 450Pro; speaking as an engineer, the 450Pro's design is utter crap in comparison. With either a TT upgrade kit or direct belt drive on the tail, I believe the HDX is superior in nearly every aspect, ESPECIALLY chassis rigidity. Personally, I think the 450Pro's redesign was to set a new standard that wasn't easily compatible with the popular clone servos & motors; it certainly did NOT make it any easier to build or service. And don't even get me STARTED on that POSplastic front bulkhead...

mnem
Dee-Dee-Dee!


ORIGINAL: pushinoldrc


ORIGINAL: mnemennth


Aww, come on Jonesy - they ain't THATbad. I just take out the little crossbar over top of the servos & the two top/front bearing block screws. you only need like 1mm to get them in there whole, and even CF will flex that much.

The PITA part is those tiny nuts; the HK450 is a pretty faithful clone, so it doesn't have the blind nuts in the frame. I almost soldered a loop of wire between 'em to make a easy handle this go-round, but I already had my head out to rebuild so I sucked it up & used the needle-nosed pliers.

I've done it both ways; like I sed; I'm not worried about it until I start doing real flying. Besides, I think the CF arms will be a good workaround. Even when you put the HXT900s in from the inside, they're STILL about a mm out of plumb; with the CF/spacer route, I can get it perfect. If I care. Which will depend entirely on how much "special time" I've had with the other machines in my life...

mnem
*Also slightly out of plumb*

Ifound that if you use servo arm ends as plastic nuts, they are much easier to get into place than metal nuts.

Very nice slide show! You have a lot of good ideas packed in there too. I use the Turnigy MG90S servos on my v2, and they must be mounted from the inside as the geometry is way out. (I think it has a taller gear section).
I am really beginning to think that the geometry of the control rods to the swash isn't so critical as long as the angles are similar. My HDX places the servos in a triangle around the mast, and there is no way I can get them perfect, but it flys well with no adverse cross controls.
Ihave it set up with the Align 3G system, and it is a joy to fly.
Iwill get some pics later this evening of it so ya'll can see the neat way it is set up.
B


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Old 09-25-2012, 10:21 AM
  #397  
rikybob
 
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

@ Bryan - Sorry to hear of TJ's tragedy!!! Glad it was no too bad in the pocket!

@ Menm - I got your drift re: pre flight but the fact does remain, and you were right, we (except Simon) should re affirm the need!!!

Re: your slide show. PURE GENIUS!!! Half of my trepidation is my insatiable need to zip tie all my lines in. I do so with forceps and the concentration of a neurosurgeon!! I am emotionally exhausted after that affair each time! Me being the most proper way of doing it with your measure being the most efficient vs. Rob who actually uses "spooge" to adhere his lines to the heli (ok, in all fairness, he uses hot glue, but it literally looks like "bull spooge" all over his heli"!

@ Jonesy - I only once used the HXT servos and having to dismantle my heli completely drove me NUTZ! I never used them again. I only use servos that slide into place once you remove the sticker!!

@ Ingleburn - Yah, who knows what would have happened if I was back int he FBL dayz?? Prolly drilled it directly into the ground. In this instance it just "ballooned" three times as if I had waaaay too much head speed and then the last it mimicked a loss of power/lift!

All the best!

b
Old 09-25-2012, 01:56 PM
  #398  
mnemennth
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III

[quote]ORIGINAL: rikybob
ORIGINAL: ahamay
Best way to replace those front servos in a SE, v2 etc is to split your servo. Take the case off and feed one half in and then put the case on and the screws back in. Otherwise you have to do surgery on the frame to get them out. That way they are installed from the inside so the arms are straight.

Jonesy
ORIGINAL: rikybob


@ Jonesy - I only once used the HXT servos and having to dismantle my heli completely drove me NUTZ! I never used them again. I only use servos that slide into place once you remove the sticker!!
Ahhh... so THAT'S what Jonesy was talking about. But if you put them in through the inside of the frame the way they SHOULDbe, you never have to worry about it hanging up on the body of the servo. Only the gearhead passes through the chassis on the Aileron/Pitch servos; though the body of the Elevator servo DOESpass through the chassis. I still don't see what the issue is; I've done 'em both ways dozens of times and never had to fight the servos themselves, only the wires & those nuts on the inside. That's why I was all bent out of shape that I couldn't find my backing plates.
ORIGINAL: rikybob
@ Menm - I got your drift re: pre flight but the fact does remain, and you were right, we (except Simon) should re affirm the need!!!

Re: your slide show. PURE GENIUS!!! Half of my trepidation is my insatiable need to zip tie all my lines in. I do so with forceps and the concentration of a neurosurgeon!! I am emotionally exhausted after that affair each time! Me being the most proper way of doing it with your measure being the most efficient vs. Rob who actually uses "spooge" to adhere his lines to the heli (ok, in all fairness, he uses hot glue, but it literally looks like "bull spooge" all over his heli"!

All the best!

b
Bob -
Thanks for the compliment; I'm quite pleased with the results m'self. Easy ANDtidy is a hard combination to beat. I know (deep in my heart, I KNOW ) what you're talking about with the zip ties; and the worst part is, no matter how careful you are with those zip ties, sooner or later one of 'em is gonna cut or at least scuff the crap out of the servo wires & make 'em look crunky. The Velcro abuse eliminates THAT too. With my 450Pro build, I started using moulding tape (the really sticky black foam mounting tape they make to hold trim & moulding onto cars) cut into 3mm wide strips to hold down my wires instead of zip ties; the ones you see on my HK450GT are still there only because I've never had that 50A Red Brick ESC out of the heli since I first built it. The moulding tape will work around curves and bends if you keep it nice & narrow, and it completely disappears under the wire if you're careful laying it down.

As for the monkey jizz... yeah, I see a LOTof that holding other people's micro helis together. Not a big fan myself.

[EDIT] In case you're wondering, the antenna mount is made by heating a 1" wide strip of blister-pack plastic with a heatgun, then I wrapped it around the shaft of a screwdriver and pressed flat against the bench with the back of a knife to give it the correct shape. After that, a little trimming with the pruning scissors, and presto! One custom mount!


mnem
There is always time to do it right.

[EDIT] Sonuvacrap - I forgot to add the pic I was talking about. D'OH!
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Old 09-25-2012, 02:17 PM
  #399  
ahamay
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: mnemennth
With my 450Pro build, I started using moulding tape (the really sticky black foam mounting tape they make to hold trim & moulding onto cars) cut into 3mm wide strips to hold down my wires instead of zip ties; the ones you see on my HK450GT are still there only because I've never had that 50A Red Brick ESC out of the heli since I first built it. The moulding tape will work around curves and bends if you keep it nice & narrow, and it completely disappears under the wire if you're careful laying it down.
Ihave the two PRO's now both torque tube and Ican say they are an absolute delight to work on after the GT or SE V2 style frame. Ialso hate those little alloy washers that you put on all the screws. The moulding tape looks like it does a good job.

Old 09-25-2012, 02:41 PM
  #400  
rikybob
 
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Default RE: HK-450GT CCPM Alloy T-Rex compatible - Part III


ORIGINAL: ahamay


ORIGINAL: mnemennth
With my 450Pro build, I started using moulding tape (the really sticky black foam mounting tape they make to hold trim & moulding onto cars) cut into 3mm wide strips to hold down my wires instead of zip ties; the ones you see on my HK450GT are still there only because I've never had that 50A Red Brick ESC out of the heli since I first built it. The moulding tape will work around curves and bends if you keep it nice & narrow, and it completely disappears under the wire if you're careful laying it down.
I have the two PRO's now both torque tube and I can say they are an absolute delight to work on after the GT or SE V2 style frame. I also hate those little alloy washers that you put on all the screws. The moulding tape looks like it does a good job.

Now imagine a frame that is many, many times bigger. It's a forkin' delight!

(I gotta pry my freakin' wallet open and buy that 550 like my brother in GA. If only I had "Simon" money)

b


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