Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
05-20-2008, 03:02 AM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
More BS to skip over
.Your buddy is funny.You guys should go play in the express way.
.Your buddy is funny.You guys should go play in the express way.
ORIGINAL: flyachopper1
To start, I apologize to any members that might be upset about what follows, but I feel that the time has come for this to be said.
No I'm not going to go shoot of to someone else. No need to. You are the only one stirring up trouble here and I'm not afraid to get in your face about it.You have been a trash mouth from the day you showed up here. You are an insulting little person and I'm going to give you back just what you dish out.
Yes you are right. You are a noob. One with way too much self adoration. You can't even organize your lines of bull. You claim to have years of experience and on the same page tell someone your are new. I'm betting you have stupid you haven't even used yet. You pop in here with little or no knowledge and give ridiculous advice and bad answers that will damage someones equipment and get people hurt.Then, when you're confronted by someone that is more informed your over inflated little ego gets hurt. You snap off like a spoiled little brat that thinks everyone else has the right to your opinion. WRONG! You seem to think that we should just drop everything and do what you want. WRONG! You claim that we purposely skip over questions. Ever stop to think we take time to find an informed answer before posting one. I don't think so evidenced by some of your responses to questions. Your lack of knowledge and compassion is blatantly obvious and most see right through you. Besides, I've gone back quite a ways in the thread and can't seem to find where someone has been skipped over. Sure, there are some places where an answer wasn't on the very next post, but so what. You think we just sit around waiting to hear from you? WRONG AGAIN LITTLE MAN.The others have tried to be diplomatic with you to no avail. I'm not going to. Who are you to get in here and tell us what this thread is about. The mouth running started with you. You keep saying "we" in your rants.You are the only one that has complained. Where do you get the idea that you speak for anyone else. If a new thread needs to be started go do it yourself and any that don't like it here can follow you to your boring little narrow minded world. This thread has been through the technical stuff and has evolved into a community. If you weren't so lazy you would go back and read it from the start. Put a little effort into learning like we did and quit expecting us to carry you. Everyone is welcomed here the same way and respected for their efforts to learn.You have made no effort to learn.You seem to think we owe you something for nothing.You just showed up and expected everyone to line up and do what you want. You, you, you. How very shallow. Apparently you have been lazy for a long time. You didn't even put in the effort in school to learn how to spell. You talk about what this thread isn't for. Well, it isn't for dirty mouthed, uninformed little ego maniacs like you. Don't like it hereGO AWAY.
That's it. I won't spend any more time on you. You can, and probably will, respond with a useless diatribe that will have no use but to try and keep the hot air in your ego. I don't care from here on. I'm confident in the friendships I've made here and could care less what you think about anything.
To start, I apologize to any members that might be upset about what follows, but I feel that the time has come for this to be said.
No I'm not going to go shoot of to someone else. No need to. You are the only one stirring up trouble here and I'm not afraid to get in your face about it.You have been a trash mouth from the day you showed up here. You are an insulting little person and I'm going to give you back just what you dish out.
Yes you are right. You are a noob. One with way too much self adoration. You can't even organize your lines of bull. You claim to have years of experience and on the same page tell someone your are new. I'm betting you have stupid you haven't even used yet. You pop in here with little or no knowledge and give ridiculous advice and bad answers that will damage someones equipment and get people hurt.Then, when you're confronted by someone that is more informed your over inflated little ego gets hurt. You snap off like a spoiled little brat that thinks everyone else has the right to your opinion. WRONG! You seem to think that we should just drop everything and do what you want. WRONG! You claim that we purposely skip over questions. Ever stop to think we take time to find an informed answer before posting one. I don't think so evidenced by some of your responses to questions. Your lack of knowledge and compassion is blatantly obvious and most see right through you. Besides, I've gone back quite a ways in the thread and can't seem to find where someone has been skipped over. Sure, there are some places where an answer wasn't on the very next post, but so what. You think we just sit around waiting to hear from you? WRONG AGAIN LITTLE MAN.The others have tried to be diplomatic with you to no avail. I'm not going to. Who are you to get in here and tell us what this thread is about. The mouth running started with you. You keep saying "we" in your rants.You are the only one that has complained. Where do you get the idea that you speak for anyone else. If a new thread needs to be started go do it yourself and any that don't like it here can follow you to your boring little narrow minded world. This thread has been through the technical stuff and has evolved into a community. If you weren't so lazy you would go back and read it from the start. Put a little effort into learning like we did and quit expecting us to carry you. Everyone is welcomed here the same way and respected for their efforts to learn.You have made no effort to learn.You seem to think we owe you something for nothing.You just showed up and expected everyone to line up and do what you want. You, you, you. How very shallow. Apparently you have been lazy for a long time. You didn't even put in the effort in school to learn how to spell. You talk about what this thread isn't for. Well, it isn't for dirty mouthed, uninformed little ego maniacs like you. Don't like it hereGO AWAY.
That's it. I won't spend any more time on you. You can, and probably will, respond with a useless diatribe that will have no use but to try and keep the hot air in your ego. I don't care from here on. I'm confident in the friendships I've made here and could care less what you think about anything.
05-20-2008, 07:09 AM
#4277
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
<waiting.....> Okay, it looks like everyone's had a chance to vent now. Let's get back to discussing TREX helis, shall we? 
05-20-2008, 08:33 AM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
ORIGINAL: sheerider1026
hey guys, how good is the gy401?? i just bought one with the 9650 servo.. i have been flying an esky hbk2 with the esky hh gyro.. was wondering how much better the combo is that i just bought for my rex.. is it about the best?? i have a dx6i, when setting it all up, where do i need to be on the gyro adjustments(on the gyro itself) and the adjustments in the tx?? thanx,gary
hey guys, how good is the gy401?? i just bought one with the 9650 servo.. i have been flying an esky hbk2 with the esky hh gyro.. was wondering how much better the combo is that i just bought for my rex.. is it about the best?? i have a dx6i, when setting it all up, where do i need to be on the gyro adjustments(on the gyro itself) and the adjustments in the tx?? thanx,gary
The 401 is light years beyond the E-Sky gyro and if setup right will rarely blow out on you. It is not the best because it has an erratic piro rate in one direction. What it does is, I believe, if you are flying left to right and you do a right rudder piro it will do half the piro fast and half slow around and around half fast half slow. Not a big deal I do my piro flips in the other direction anyway. I do fly the 401 as well as tons and tons of people who are very happy with it.
You set you gyro with the DX6i in the gyro menu. This is gyro sense so you will start out at 72% which is default and is equivalent to 50% gain. If it wags fast go down on the number if it wags slow go up. The nice thing about the DX6i is it already has the gyro switch assigned so if you flip it you are in rate mode. It is default 0 gain for rate mode this is for setting your tail pitch in the middle at center stick. Don't try to fly in rate mode this is a monster to setup as you need revo mixing. Just make sure that switch is up when you plug in and when you fly. If it is down by accident when you plug in then unplug, reset the switch and plug your heli in again.
Hope that helps,
Mike
05-20-2008, 08:36 AM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
ORIGINAL: manumenzella04
Hi
Thanks HeliSmith for your quick answer. I have just tried the new curves, and the motor seems to be running a little less hot, but not too much. I am getting the thermometer tommorrow and will post the results.
Another thing: is it safe to run the motor at 90% or even 100% with no pitch on the blades?
I am using the PRO wood blades and 12t pinion (I also have a pair of radix, but I am saving them I case I crash soon
Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel
Hi
Thanks HeliSmith for your quick answer. I have just tried the new curves, and the motor seems to be running a little less hot, but not too much. I am getting the thermometer tommorrow and will post the results.
Another thing: is it safe to run the motor at 90% or even 100% with no pitch on the blades?
I am using the PRO wood blades and 12t pinion (I also have a pair of radix, but I am saving them I case I crash soon
Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel
Yes please post your temps I am super curious. The 430XL does run warm how are you batteries?
05-20-2008, 08:42 AM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
ORIGINAL: flyachopper1
Apparently he did mean the whole heli. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.
What's a 'barring'?
Apparently he did mean the whole heli
. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.What's a 'barring'?
Nice I need a vice with soft jaws, a heat gun and a mallet. I am soaking your knowledge up.
As I am working on so many helis lately especially badly crashed ones I will need to start collecting the right tools to get the job done quicker.On a Trex 600e recently the main shaft was bent so bad I had to split the frames, remove the bearing block, main shaft and main gear all in one section. Then dremel the main shaft in three pieces from the middle to save the bearing blocks. That was the worst bent main shaft I have ever seen I couldn't get the swash up or the main gear off even out of the frame!
Mike
Edit: P.S. That one way is still fused to the main shaft so I never saved the lower gear. Damaged it trying to remove it was a shame but I threw in the towel. Saved most of the parts though.
05-20-2008, 09:46 AM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
so you are saying always fly in hh mode and never in rate mode?? and what switch are you talking about leaving flipped up??the gyro switch on the tx?? i am still a little confused.. and please explain the revo mixing a little bit,, is that where you can program the tail pitch to change when you give sudden throttle inputs??
05-20-2008, 11:59 AM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
Yes always in HH mode.
Yes the gyro switch should be down make sure you have a solid red light. (Please check the light I haven't used DX6i except for customer)
Yes revo mixing mixes a certain amount of tail pitch in with the speed of the motor.
Edited:
Yes the gyro switch should be down make sure you have a solid red light. (Please check the light I haven't used DX6i except for customer)
Yes revo mixing mixes a certain amount of tail pitch in with the speed of the motor.
Edited:
05-20-2008, 04:31 PM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
ORIGINAL: flyachopper1
Apparently he did mean the whole heli. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.
What's a 'barring'?
ORIGINAL: HeliSmith
Just read it wrong I guess. I thought you were saying to take the whole heli to the sink and run hot water over the bearings! lol My bad.
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.What's a 'barring'?
05-20-2008, 04:43 PM
#4284
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
Hi Helismith,
These are the temperatures of the motor, lipo, and esc:
Time Lipo ESC Motor
0' 83 83 84
2' 97 120 138
4' 103 130 148
6' 115 133 148
These measurements are for a 6 minutes hovering, with really short stops every two minutes to make the measurements.
The throttle curve for this is 0 - 45 - 90 - 90 - 90, but I also tried 0 - 40 - 70 - 85 - 100 but with only a few more degrees measured.
What I forgot to mention in the other posts is that my red bullet connector (esc - motor) for some reason is very hard to remove. Once when building, to unplug the motor, I pulled from the wires (stupid on my part), and the red wire going to the motor got cut just where they go into the connector. I stripped only 3 more millieters from it and soledered again. Do you think this might be causing the increased temperature? (I unplugged the bullet connectors right after flighing to check if the males were hot but they were only a bit above ambient temperature)
The battery used is being charged right now, and i will edit this post with how many mah were put back into it.
Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel
These are the temperatures of the motor, lipo, and esc:
Time Lipo ESC Motor
0' 83 83 84
2' 97 120 138
4' 103 130 148
6' 115 133 148
These measurements are for a 6 minutes hovering, with really short stops every two minutes to make the measurements.
The throttle curve for this is 0 - 45 - 90 - 90 - 90, but I also tried 0 - 40 - 70 - 85 - 100 but with only a few more degrees measured.
What I forgot to mention in the other posts is that my red bullet connector (esc - motor) for some reason is very hard to remove. Once when building, to unplug the motor, I pulled from the wires (stupid on my part), and the red wire going to the motor got cut just where they go into the connector. I stripped only 3 more millieters from it and soledered again. Do you think this might be causing the increased temperature? (I unplugged the bullet connectors right after flighing to check if the males were hot but they were only a bit above ambient temperature)
The battery used is being charged right now, and i will edit this post with how many mah were put back into it.
Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel
05-20-2008, 05:04 PM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all
.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
ORIGINAL: flyachopper1
Apparently he did mean the whole heli. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.
What's a 'barring'?
ORIGINAL: HeliSmith
Just read it wrong I guess. I thought you were saying to take the whole heli to the sink and run hot water over the bearings! lol My bad.
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.What's a 'barring'?
Jim
05-20-2008, 05:05 PM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all
.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
ORIGINAL: flyachopper1
Apparently he did mean the whole heli. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.
What's a 'barring'?
ORIGINAL: HeliSmith
Just read it wrong I guess. I thought you were saying to take the whole heli to the sink and run hot water over the bearings! lol My bad.
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.What's a 'barring'?
Jim
05-20-2008, 05:12 PM
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
Maby if people stayed on topic things like this wont happen.
ORIGINAL: dooleyje
I was just wondering why you have to be nasty in everyone of your post. Man you need to chill.
Jim
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all
.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
ORIGINAL: flyachopper1
Apparently he did mean the whole heli. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.
What's a 'barring'?
ORIGINAL: HeliSmith
Just read it wrong I guess. I thought you were saying to take the whole heli to the sink and run hot water over the bearings! lol My bad.
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.What's a 'barring'?
Jim
05-20-2008, 05:40 PM
#4288
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
Maby if people stayed on topic things like this wont happen.
Maby if people stayed on topic things like this wont happen.
ORIGINAL: dooleyje
I was just wondering why you have to be nasty in everyone of your post. Man you need to chill.
Jim
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
I soo happy that you can point all that out to me mr know it all
.You must have over looked the title of this thread where it says Trex XL/SE not lets talk about things that have nothing to do with the hobby or thread.If you want to talk about things that have nothing to do with this thread then START YOUR OWN.
ORIGINAL: flyachopper1
Apparently he did mean the whole heli. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.
What's a 'barring'?
ORIGINAL: HeliSmith
Just read it wrong I guess. I thought you were saying to take the whole heli to the sink and run hot water over the bearings! lol My bad.
ORIGINAL: FlyingHigh 400
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
Why are you telling me?Thats how ive been taking my barrings out for the past 13 years.Never had a problem.What,do you think the Aluminum will rust lol.As long as you dry the barrings and oil them,there as good as new and clean..
. Why else would he have said to cover or remove the electornics? Seems to me it's less work to take the bearing block out than to remove or cover the electronics. The hot water may work, but I use a heat gun. I have a small vise with soft jaws to hold the bearing block and I use a small piece of stainless tubing tapped with a small mallet to gently drive the bearings out. To reinstall bearings I heat the block again and tap the new ones in using a slightly larger diameter piece of stainless tubing. Been doing this for 14 YEARS and haven't ruined anything yet. I don't know about the plastic blocks. The only heli I have with plastic blocks is the Raptor G2 and I haven't had to change a bearing in it yet. I'll keep the hot water in mind for that as the heat gun is likely too hot for the plastic. Also, I don't know why anyone would worry about oiling a sealed bearing. If it is worn to the point that the seals allow oil to enter then the bearing is shot. Toss it.What's a 'barring'?
Jim
Jim
05-20-2008, 07:29 PM
#4289
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
Maby you guys should try reading the rules.Theres been a few times I posted needing help along with a few others and these guys act like they dont see the post but as soon as one of them post needing info or somthing there quick as hell to reply.Then to top it off you have to go through 2 pages of BS that has nothing to even do with RC to see if someone replyed.What makes you think I want to read through pages of BS to see if someone replyed?They live right by each other but they fill this thread with stuff they do everyday.How are they helping us by talking about things they do everyday?
Subject: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
[/quote]
Well I will have to say that none of the threads stay strictly on subject and if another story comes up it is just the fellow ship that this hobby is so known for. A lot of subjects can relate to a problem that a person has. When flying helis it does not matter the brand you have as they all are set up the same and fly the same. I am sure if you have a question or need help on a subject the folks here will help you as will I. PM me anytime. Enjoy the fellowship my friend a please be a little tolerant of others. Get to know your fellow heli folks and you will be surprised at what you can learn and the freinds you will gain for a life time.
Jim
[/quote]
Subject: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
[/quote]
Well I will have to say that none of the threads stay strictly on subject and if another story comes up it is just the fellow ship that this hobby is so known for. A lot of subjects can relate to a problem that a person has. When flying helis it does not matter the brand you have as they all are set up the same and fly the same. I am sure if you have a question or need help on a subject the folks here will help you as will I. PM me anytime. Enjoy the fellowship my friend a please be a little tolerant of others. Get to know your fellow heli folks and you will be surprised at what you can learn and the freinds you will gain for a life time.
Jim
[/quote]
05-20-2008, 07:48 PM
#4290
RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
original: FlyingHigh400
Maby you guys should try reading the rules.Theres been a few times I posted needing help along with a few others and these guys act like they dont see the post but as soon as one of them post needing info or somthing there quick as hell to reply.Then to top it off you have to go through 2 pages of BS that has nothing to even do with RC to see if someone replyed.What makes you think I want to read through pages of BS to see if someone replyed?They live right by each other but they fill this thread with stuff they do everyday.How are they helping us by talking about things they do everyday?
Subject: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
Maby you guys should try reading the rules.Theres been a few times I posted needing help along with a few others and these guys act like they dont see the post but as soon as one of them post needing info or somthing there quick as hell to reply.Then to top it off you have to go through 2 pages of BS that has nothing to even do with RC to see if someone replyed.What makes you think I want to read through pages of BS to see if someone replyed?They live right by each other but they fill this thread with stuff they do everyday.How are they helping us by talking about things they do everyday?
Subject: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
I made an exception to this particular post because it really made me mad. Please get over yourself. I have to commend dooleyje for his very dimplomatic reply to your insults and junior high school tantrum. I am not so dimplomatic and expect this reply to be edited by the moderators but I felt this opinion I have is probably shared by many others when it concerns yourself. For myself I have put you on my ignore list and will not lose a moments sleep over it. Good luck to you on your future endeavors..............
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________
Of all the things I ever lost....................................... I miss my mind the most!
05-20-2008, 09:31 PM
#4291
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RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
ORIGINAL: manumenzella04
Hi Helismith,
These are the temperatures of the motor, lipo, and esc:
Time Lipo ESC Motor
0' 83 83 84
2' 97 120 138
4' 103 130 148
6' 115 133 148
These measurements are for a 6 minutes hovering, with really short stops every two minutes to make the measurements.
The throttle curve for this is 0 - 45 - 90 - 90 - 90, but I also tried 0 - 40 - 70 - 85 - 100 but with only a few more degrees measured.
What I forgot to mention in the other posts is that my red bullet connector (esc - motor) for some reason is very hard to remove. Once when building, to unplug the motor, I pulled from the wires (stupid on my part), and the red wire going to the motor got cut just where they go into the connector. I stripped only 3 more millieters from it and soledered again. Do you think this might be causing the increased temperature? (I unplugged the bullet connectors right after flighing to check if the males were hot but they were only a bit above ambient temperature)
The battery used is being charged right now, and i will edit this post with how many mah were put back into it.
Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel
Hi Helismith,
These are the temperatures of the motor, lipo, and esc:
Time Lipo ESC Motor
0' 83 83 84
2' 97 120 138
4' 103 130 148
6' 115 133 148
These measurements are for a 6 minutes hovering, with really short stops every two minutes to make the measurements.
The throttle curve for this is 0 - 45 - 90 - 90 - 90, but I also tried 0 - 40 - 70 - 85 - 100 but with only a few more degrees measured.
What I forgot to mention in the other posts is that my red bullet connector (esc - motor) for some reason is very hard to remove. Once when building, to unplug the motor, I pulled from the wires (stupid on my part), and the red wire going to the motor got cut just where they go into the connector. I stripped only 3 more millieters from it and soledered again. Do you think this might be causing the increased temperature? (I unplugged the bullet connectors right after flighing to check if the males were hot but they were only a bit above ambient temperature)
The battery used is being charged right now, and i will edit this post with how many mah were put back into it.
Thanks again for all your help,
Manuel
I don't know the exact temp the 430XL runs at but 148 seems a bit high. Anyone willing to temp probe their 430XL for Manuel? I am sure I will have one soon to build and I will do it. 130 for the ESC sounds ok and my batteries get to 110 - 115 too.
The motor wires are coated with an "enamel" that is not conductive just back from the tin coated end. If you cut your wires you may not have noticed that this enamel is there because it is absolutely clear you can't even see it but the wire will still make a OK connection from the ends.
One way to tell is you can't get a "shiney" tin coat on the end of the wire anymore. Did it have a nice silver shiney tin coat on the wire? If not...
The enamel can be sanded off or some say to use a torch to get it off but I think a torch degrades the copper wire breaking it down. So I suggest to just roll the wire between pinched sand paper.
05-20-2008, 10:35 PM
#4292
RE: Official T-rex 450 XL SE Thread
This thread has apparently outlived its useful purpose. In the past 60 to 70 posts, on one has actually been on topic and offered any useful information. At this point, it is time to shut it down.
