Kalock

Forget what we might know as its still the little stupid things that get us Plus I am still a newb (Two months) even though I have picked up some good habits along the way. As far as my tail strike, the servo never hit the floor. The ears just snapped off from the vibration of the hit. I am thinking I may have just had a weak case. Also to note though. At the time I had a carbon boom on with the aluminum servo mounts so there was NO dampening for the servo. I have since moved back to the aluminum/plastic as it generates less static. Sometimes the hair on my arms would stand up when I got near the heli from the static build up of the T/R belt through CF, thank god for PCM receivers.

As for getting rid of the 240 for a 401. I am more inclined to get a 601 0r 611 for the raptor and move the 401 to the T-Rex. I am just not at the point where I think it needs it yet. The 240 should have the same holding power of the 401 just no digital servos and no remote tail hold setting.

Kalock

One more note. I did the CF frame upgrade from the standard XL to the eCCPM version. With that one you can build the frame first if you'd like. The servos are very simple to install when the frame is built. Plus I like the black CF versus the silver for the SE, just personal preference

leejax02

My Feedback: (1)

I like my S75 in my XL and it does it's job very well. I also built the carbons and personally liked installing the servos first...a personal preference in the T-rex. I had both gyros in seperate T-rex's and they workes similiarly, but remote HH enable/disable is more than worth the few extra bucks.

bsreinstra

I did the "tail strike on the carpet trick" last week also, and also am a newb. I am running a cc35 / hs50 / gy401 / and my gain is set at 80%.

I mounted the heli to the lazy susan from our dining room table (wife is gonna kick my $%&&) and fired it up.
I seem to be getting a bit of wag (about 2 inches each way) on the tail. I am wondering is this normal or can I do better?

Do you need to mess with the delay with an hs-50, or leave it at 0 like it was when it came out of the box? Also, when I increase the gain it doesn't seem to have any real effect, should I go for 90%

Any help will be appreciated.

Tom_J

Official SE owners I'm looking for a SE head button.....

bemyself

Hi all,
Sorry to bump into this thread but I'd just bought a Trex 450XL HDE and is in the process of building it. I'd heard lots of comments encouraging would be owners of Trex to use Hitec 56 servos. Is the hitec 56 a digital servos? And why people are always stressing that the servo for the tail (control by the gyro) needs to be digital? Is the tail servo important in maintaing the tail movement? Do you think it's advisable for me to go Hitec 56 on the tail while the rest of the controls will be Hitec 55 (already have Hitec 55 in my stock).
Please let me know what you guys think as i'm very new to Heli.
Regards,
Bemyself

leejax02

My Feedback: (1)

Tom J, I see you are in Fl. and check www.gravesrc.com which is Graves rc in Orlando. They stock most parts and if ordered by 2pm will go out the same day. Seeing your in Florida, it will go out FedEx Ground which is Next Day in the same state.

Bemyself, the Hs-56 is not digital, but is has better gears(Karbonite actually) that ride on a bearing (top only)which gives it more precise centering,movement,holding power and durability. It is probably the best servo for the cyclic positions right now. A digital servo like the Futaba 9650, when used with a gyro with digital mode, operates at a higher precision and keeps the tail steady which SHOULD eliminate tail wag, drifting and should keep the tail more stable in 3-d manuevers.
If you have the hs-55's then use them until you feel you need better and have the money. if you use a 56 on the tail, then hopefully you have a great gyro like the GY240 or the Gy401(which has the digital mode for future use with a digital servo when you get one).

Does anyone have any pics they can post with the canopy on or off, just to show components and set-ups? Of course the bling shots are always great to see too.

ckoelliker

My Feedback: (3)

Hey I need a little help,

I have a T-Rex cde with a cc35, four e-flite s75s, and a hitec electron six receiver. I have been getting minor glitches, and feel like I have been going around in circles trying to fix the problem. First off, it only glitches while in flight. I have tried running up the motor on the ground to make it glitch, but I can't. I have flown it maybe fifteen to twenty times mostly hovering and keeping it close. It is not glitching terribly and so far I have been able to fly through them, but I don't want to take it to far out for fear of a crash. I started with the receiver on the back right side of the heli per the instructions. I have the esc on the back left side. I have ran the antenna around the right skid i.e. the blade cp. I then tried the antenna wrapped around the skid a few times and ran it to the horizontal stabilizer. This seemed to yield decent results but glitching still remained. I then tried putting the antenna through the small tube and ran the excess to the horizontal stabilizer. I continued to fly but the glitching remains. After seeking advice from a LHS I tried moving the receiver to the nose of the helicopter. I was told to keep as much room between the gyro, esc, and receiver as possible. I did this and wrapped the antenna a few times around the skid and ran it to the stabilizer as before. This actualy seemed to make the glitching worse. I probably got for or five in one flight. I then unwrapped the antenna and flew it with the antenna hanging near the nose of the helicopter. This yielded my only glitch free flight.
My question is where do I go from here. If it is really the antenna placement I don't know how to run it any better. I also have a Shadow-3 receiver that I bought thinking the helicopter was coming with out a receiver(e-bay). I have yet to put it in because I thought I could find and fix the problem. This is a DSL receiver and I don't know if people have had any success with them.

Any help would be appreciated.

M^ck^y

Please try flying at a different field...as far as you know, not too ridiculously neither , it might be something within proximity that's annoying the receiver

ckoelliker

My Feedback: (3)

It has been the same at my house and at the flying field. For the past two days I have been flying it with the antenna hanging straight down. These flights have been glitch free, but I have not been able to get the helicopter very far from myself flying in my front yard. If it is my antenna placement I am not sure what to do to fix it. I can't keep flying like this. I keep waiting for tiny army men to repell down my hanging antenna

boostcrzy

Tom J.....i can get you a button ASAP....i am in WPB also

Jack

t--bone

i got the mx400 just got it done and hoverd 4 tomes i did a fast spin and it seemed i had no controll and it went in a pine tree i think it is a glitch im scared 2 fly mine now

boostcrzy

should have got a T-REX!....lol....J/K!

what exactly happened when you stopped the Piro?(fast spin)

Peter G.

Hope you guy's can help me;

My son and I have been flying a TRex since Xmas, our first electric heli. On a new battery pack right off the charger it will fly with maybe a click or two of tail rotor trim. In about a minutes time the trim is TOTALLY out. I mean 40 clicks or more. Once set again it is fine for the rest of the flight, maybe a click or two. This happens with EVERY new change of the battery. Tried to center the servo over and over again. There is no binding what so ever and everything is free to move. The kit was a stock kit from align. The gyro is a Telebee.

I am thinking that it is either the gyro or esc. Purhaps on a fresh battery there is a bit of over charge present??????. Has anyone else had this happen?. Does anyone have any thoughts?. I have a couple JR 501 in other aircraft. I did not want to mess with their set ups but if the consensus is it is the gyro, I may have to swap them out to try. The problem is, if they work better my son will no doubt seize my gyro on me [:@].

Thanks Peter

leejax02

My Feedback: (1)

It sounds like the servo is binding/hitting the side of the slider when it is in flight. You way want to put the gyro in non-head hold and loosen up the tail mounts so that you can slide it forward or backwards. Try in 1/8-1/4" spaces in either direction to find where it holds descently with no rudder input. When you find it, then tighten it back down and put it back in HH mode and that should work.
if that is not it then tell some more about what it is doing. What tail servo do you have?

leejax02

My Feedback: (1)

t--bone, how long have you been flying helis? It sounds like there might have been operator error from your post. It probably isn't though, it could have been binding that kept it from centering back, bad servo,improper slider tolerances or improperly set gyro.

What gyro,tail servo do you have? Try taking the link out of the tail servo horn and see if it is smooth and EASY to move.
Try positioning slider in non head-hold mode to hold tail straight by adjusting linkage length. Then put back in HH mode and should be good.

A bit more detailed info would be great.

Peter G.

The sympyoms I described were on the non heading hold mode. Either way the servo creeps by leeps and bounds. The Trex was a factory kit. Telebee gyro and tower servo's. There is no binding in the servo linkage at all.......... none. That is not the problem. I remember in past years having a couple servo's that would not hold center and would creep to one side........ hmmm. I do not have a spare micro servo, I have a couple spare hitec HS81 I wonder would they be good enough to try and eliminate the problem. I f it is the servo then I can go ahead and order a HS50 or HS55.

As far as the problem goes, like the original post say's the center seems to change, so much so that I run out of trim and must use sub trim, this is after flying it in trim for the first minute. I do not have much in the line of electrics, that is why I thought it might be the initial charge of the battery.

Thanks Peter

edge_pilot

My Feedback: (73)

Just a few thoughts on glitching problems. We had small glitches a few times a flight until we twisted the battery and ESC wires. twisted wires create less "noise" that bothers the radio. once we twisted the heavy gauge wire all was good from then on. This is a NO cost fix or atleast try, it doesn't hurt even if it doesn't fix your problems.

Also a note on tail wag. We had this problem when we first assembled our first Trex. ALL of our problem was in the tail pushrod and that crappy tail slider setup. I worked and worked on both of them to get them super smooth and binding free. Now the tail is rock solid. We run the S-75 servo and the 240 gyro.

As far as the wooden blades I toally agree they should be ran. The fiber blades fly horrible and are hard on parts if you crash. As far as the carbon blades we have not used any yet do to the prices are as high as my Raptor 50 blades are. I have seen a serious 3D demo put on with a Trex and when I went to talk to the "kid" that was flying he was using wooden blades. Talk about our jaws hitting the ground.[X(] He swore by the woodies, they too said the carbon fiber blades were nice but too expensive.

We are still learning new things about the Trex just like everybody else, but I still beleave it is the best micro heli sold.

malswift

Looking at buying a T-Rex SE (first electric heli) but have a couple of questions:

1 - Is anyone selling it without the Align motor and ESC? I was looking at an AON V2815-3500 and a CC Phoenix 35 ESC instead. Anyone flying the AON? Should I just stick with the Align gear?

2 - Plan on a Futaba GY401 with 9650 servo for the tail.....what do you guys recommend for the other servos?

Thanks!

Ed

leejax02

My Feedback: (1)

I see your in Melbourne and good to have a fellow Floridian on the board. I just finished my first hover/trimming with my Se and it is a serious heli. I got mine from www.rchover.com for 419.99 without electronics. Most are offering them for 409.99 with blade balancers, whip antennaes and other perks. Check Helihobby and one called Modefo's. In Orlando, Graves Rc is starting to stock more parts and with Fed-Ex Ground, you order before 2PM and get it next day.
I have the CC35 esc and it is much better than my Align 35. Have the Gy401 and 9650(not in yet...waiting on servo brackets) and that is as good as it gets.I don't have the AON, but the Mega 16/15/3 is man enough for any fight. running my Align 420lf as I trim it out and then drop it in as i get it lovely.

boostcrzy

Hey Ed......i can hook you up with a SE without the Align motor/esc.....can get you the CC esc and do a combo for ya! I run the CC 35 with a Mega 16/15/3 on mine...really has some balls....
PM me for more.....

Jack

malswift

leejax02 / boostcrzy

Thanks for the info......I am getting closer to making a decision on what to purchase; still comparing $$$ on the web (that way I can tell the wife I couldn't pass on such good deals :

- TRex 450 SE, Hitec Electron 6, Hitec HS-56s (x3), Futaba GY401 w/9650, CC Phoenix 35 ESC, AON 2815-3500, TP Li-po 2100mah.

Is there anything else I may have left out? Connectors, pinions, etc??? Already have a charger (Triton).

leejax02: you mentioned having to wait for servo brackets for your 9650......I thought the SE includes the Align aluminum tail servo bracket?

Thanks again guys!

Ed

edge_pilot

My Feedback: (73)

Why does everyone dislike the Align 430 motor and the 35 amp Align speed control so much? Just curious because we have 2 setups like that and they are powerhouses. You can get a rediculous headspeed if you want to.

Also malswift you will need battery connectors. one for the battery and one for the wires on the speed control (one male one female). We go with something like Dean's Ultra connectors.

leejax02

My Feedback: (1)

They sell a specific servo bracket for the 9650 here:

http://www.rchover.com/inc/sdetail/23296 heard Modefo's has them cheaper...search for Modefo's.

I order alot of mechanics/parts from Jeremy as he is a pretty straight up guy. Electronics you will have to look around for best prices. don't recommend used for new pilots as it can cause more problems than savings. Also look into getting an external Bec (Medusa 2A 6 volt) will work great with the hs-56's,Futaba 9650. Also get a ferrite ring to help with any glitches...those rings are only a few bucks.

edge_pilot

My Feedback: (73)

What is this "ferrite ring"?????? I would be interested in them if I knew what they were or were to get it.