BryFlyGuy67

Hey there, everyone. I am assembling a TREX V2 with the help of one of our forum members and I thought that I would start a new PhotoBucket album to chronicle my progress, ask questions and invite comments.

When finished, this is what I will have:

TREX SE V2 (wood blades) kit
Spektrum DX7 TX
Spektrum AR6100 Rx
JR DS285 servos for CCPM
Futaba GY410 HH Gyro
Futaba S9650 Tail servo

Here is my [link=http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc81/BryFlyGuy67/TREX%20SE%20V2%20Build%20Log/]TREX SE V2 Build Log[/link] on PhotoBucket. All comments are welcome! [8D]

BryFlyGuy67

Here is the album in slide show format for those of you who just want a quick look.

[link=http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc81/BryFlyGuy67/?action=view&current=51cd64d1.pbw]BryFlyGuy67 TREX V2 Build Slideshow[/link]

BryFlyGuy67

Well, the head is assembled and the frame has been test fitted. It is ready for loc-tite tomorrow! This thing is starting to look like a Heli!

Photo album has been updated with more good pix of the build process. I'm really glad that I have some help doing this. I definitely would have had a rougher time of it without some guidance.

As before, any and all comments welcome.

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

I like that 16oz hammer on your work bench.

heliaction

LOL i was going to mention that also along with the "vise grips". Good luck with the build you are going to love that machine, I cant get enough of mine.

BryFlyGuy67

Yes, the hammer is there to remind me to always take it slow and to take a break if I get frustrated! Honestly, the hammer and vice grips are thee for other projects. Lord, I HOPE that it never comes to that on my TREX! [sm=eek.gif]

I got the head and frame asssembled so far. I still need to go back and thread-lock all of the screws that hold the frame halves together. The frame assembly was more difficult than I thought. Getting those first couple of screws and sleeves - including the motor mount - started took me a while to figure out. [&:] But I got it done and done right, I think.

My [link=http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc81/BryFlyGuy67/TREX%20SE%20V2%20Build%20Log/]Build Log on PhotoBucket[/link] has been updated with new pix. Let me know if you guys see anything wrong when you view them.

Also, when you are looking at the pix in the PhotoBucket viewer, there is a button at the top-left that will make the pic larger so it's easier to see.

BryFlyGuy67

I am now a proud member of my local RC club, the [link=http://www.wolverineskyhawks.com/skyhawks/]Wolverine Skyhawks![/link]! I am headed out to fly at the field next Monday! I won't be flying the TREX yet, but I do have a Typhoon 2 that I have been itching to fly! [8D]

BryFlyGuy67

One of the guys on Helifreak just posted and said that he thought that the flybar control arms were reversed. Do any of you see that?

heliaction

yes they are definitely reversed. In the manual they are called flybar control arm p/n hh4014. They need to be turned the otherway

BryFlyGuy67

From the manual and comparing it to the pix I took (Heli is at home <sigh> ) it looks like the Flybar Control ARM is correct on my bird.

But what about the Flybar Control ROD (see pic attached)?

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

Hard to see in the picture, but there are two different dimensions from the ball to the outer edge of the flybar control. I trust they are correct for its hard to see. Edited---> The last pic you added clearly shows you are doing good work.

BryFlyGuy67

Thanks! I can't tak all the credit. RussWisc has been a BIG TIME help on this build. He's helping me along via PM as I go through the build. It is VERY NICE to have someone help you when you do this for the first time. The nice part is that since I built it from a kit, I will have a lot more confidence in repairing it when the inevitable crash happens.

I am going to check the orientation of the flybar control rod when I get home to make sure that the short side is aligned with the ball link it attached to below. I do not know for sure that this is correct.

heliaction

Its not right...... If you look at the diagram you will see 2 dimensions on the flybar control arm, 1 is 18.25 and the other 20.75. Note that the pic shows the short side is leading while the long is trailing. What it appears in the fist pic (when you first asked this) and the last pic from you last post is you have one installed the wrong way round. One is correct while the other appear not to be.

I hope you understand what im trying to say.

BryFlyGuy67

Yes, I believe that I do. However, since I am new to this, I am working with the terminology from the manual. My read is that the Flybar ARM is installed correct, whereas the ROD is backwards on one side.

I think that we're talking about the same thing.

heliaction

Sorry my mistake.... it is the control "rod" we are talking about. Oppps

BryFlyGuy67

Good. I will fix that when I get home.

Ah, one question. Those screws are thread-locked bith the Blue stuff. How hard is it to get screws out that have been thread-locked?

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

You don't use much and watch how tight you make them or they will strip. If you have not been to, by all means check out the build videos by Bob Finliss on heli---freak
http://www.heli---freak.com/ (remove hyphans). Great videos os a TRex 450 setup and there is also a video on using lock tight. It appears the sight is down right now too.

BryFlyGuy67

Yeah, I have all of Finless' videos and I did go through the one on thread-locking. I tried to do it exacly like he did.

Should I think about heating it before trying to remove? This isn't RED thread-lock, but it IS thread-lock.

P47 Jug - Al

My Feedback: (1)

I have not had to heat most. Make sure your hex wrench fits the screw head snugly. Pitch screws that round internally and grind down the hex wrench if it starts to round. You might buy a high quality 1.5mm wrench as well. That's the one you will use most often.

BryFlyGuy67

Going to get a high-quality set from LHS this weekend! I notice that there are holes cut in my aluminum case to hold them, too. Hmm.... must be a hint.

heliaction

I cant express myself how strongly i agree with P47 Jug - Al, good quality tools will be like "Brufen 600" to a mild headache. You have spent good money on your heli, please spend good money on a few simple tools. The small screwdriver and small allen key are the most used. I got myself a set of align tools including ball link pliers, which are a must.
Not sure what holes you have in your case but please inform?.
The blue locktite supplied with the kit is good, im not sure what Finless uses but i have red "221 LOCTITE" which is low strength and vibration proof. It appears to be similar to the provided blue align stuff. Basically you want only a little hold, too much hold will cause more damage than good. I truly believe as a commercial heli pilot and FAA licenced engineer the "221 loctite" is equivalent to the supplied T43, however use the recpective locktight as decribed in the manual.....ie use T43 or equivelent in it resective place and use the R48 where the manual state it's use.

BryFlyGuy67

You guys (and my recent experiences) have convinced me: Friday morning I am headed to LHS to get a good set of tools. Before I started on this part of the kit, I did not realize how much the TREX uses hex screws. I have a great set of phillips and flat-head drivers. The little allen that came with the kit is just not cutting it and the set of metric allen wrenches I have seems to be too loose/soft of a fit.

No worries! I got everything apart no problem. Only one rod was backwards. I fixed it easily. I got the frame halves thread locked (I don't have the bottle in front of me, but it's the blue commercial brand) and got the skids attached. I think that I'm ready for the next step, which according to the manual is assembling the tail section.

Here is a link to a slideshow with three new pix:

http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/c...t=1b05009f.pbw

clutchbob

I'm not sure how the JR DS285 servos compare to the HS 65s I used, but I installed my servos with the mounting tabs inside the frame. This allowed a perfectly perpendicular link from all three servos to the swash. I think the suggestion to do this comes from "Finless". You have to install these with the upper frame halves apart and you have to grind down the stem of the ball link attached to the rearmost servo arm (easy to do- just stick a toothpick through the ball and file or grind the stem). This will make the length of the servo links different than what's given in the manual.
You may not want to do this if you've already put the top and bottom frames together and it's not critical, just a suggestion.
Whether you mount them inside or outside, don't forget to set your lowest servo arm on the correct side to prevent "hooking" the main gear. If your throws are set correctly, it won't be an issue, but as a precaution...

heliaction

Clutchbob. Finless Bob described the grinding process for the hs 55/56 servo. The hs65's do not require this, not sure if you can tell in the pic but mine is fine and i haven't ground anything off that ball

HarleyDave

BryFlyGuy67, I just purchased a Trex a little while ago, but have finally found the time to start getting things in order, so your build info here along with others is going to be a great help....Thanks to all of ya... -- Harley