bigairlife

Ya. We need a vid from one of u guys!

ThermalRD

Well i gotta tell ya.... Soo far im anything but impressed. The linkage is a pretty shabby setup for this rotary carb. If i make it thru break-in, i'll post a full review on it. Currently im on tank two, and lost front wheel drive. Just not impressed soo far. Im gonna tear apart this front end, and see what happened. Hard to imagine anything breaking while doing 8's in my yard, for break-in.

scottywilkes

did u do a full check over before u ran it? All RTRs u should basically rip apart out of the box as the little dudes in the workshops dont always do things properly. If the MMGT runs the same kinda setup with its bigger brother with the input diff cup screws, then they have a habbit of loosening and falling out, u will need to heatshrink over the screw, they will never some out, im yet to have 1 fall out on the MGT after 12gallons

NitroBurn1

I always go over all the screws, and use blue threadlocker on the ones that need it.

ThermalRD

Nope, this truck is way different than its big brother. Im very familiar with the MGT issues, and drive train coming apart. Been there, done that. I just took apart the front diff, and dont see anything wrong. Ughh... That points towards the tranny... Not good. And yes, i went over this truck, and made my own little changes, and checks before running it.

NitroBurn1

Im not sure because I have not had my transmission apart, but I don't think the rear wheels would work either if it was broke.

bigairlife

Yup. Thats really weird tho

ThermalRD

Ok, i believe i found the problem. When i put it all back together, i noticed the issue was there, but not consistantly. Found one of the drive cup set screws at the diff, had backed out some. Im trying again with blue loctite, but it may require red. Most my trucks get red in those areas. I did notice some things i like, and dislike about this truck while taking it apart. Right now my biggest issue is this linkage. Its not smooth, and almost never returns back to idle properly. I can see im gonna end up with a TRS actually on the arm of the rotary carb. I also noticed alot of the servo action smoothed out, once i removed that forward/reverse servo. I have it locked in forward with a TRS right now. Was a perfect fit. The other thing i dont care for, is how hard it is to work on. You fellas will learn that once you need to get into the diffs. Theres waaaay too much involved in removing a diff on this truck. Other than that, there are some things i like. I like the truck has caster clips. I like the truck has a sway bar mount already. Future hop up i guess. I also like that the plastic all feels VERY strong. We'll see how it shapes up. Still not in love with it yet. Gotta upload some pics now.

ThermalRD

Here is a direct copy n' paste, of some info i posted on LSTforums.com.

Ok, went out for tank two today and lost FWD. Brought it in, and found some things i like, and dont like about it. Thinking it was the diff, i went right in. The diff was fine. Ended up finding the drive cups at the diffs, are not the traditional diff setup. Most diffs have a drive cup and shaft, that goes into the diff, has a pin, then a bevel gear on it. Not this one. This has a shaft sticking out of the diff, with a drive cup that sits on it, with a set screw to hold it in place. Found one of those had backed out.... Atleast nothing is broke, i dont think. I did find that i hate working on this thing. Well, not that i hate it, just that it requires ALOT of work to get to a diff. It wont be fun to work on at the track. I'll give you a few reasons why.

Number one. At this point, there are braces, and hinge pin holders that need to be removed first. Approx. 4 screws there. You'll also be removing some e clips from thoe pins.


Number two. The hidden screws. Yup, there are screws you cant access without removing the suspension arms. So pull the pins out, and slide em down to gain access here. 2 upper, and 2 lower.


Number three. You cant pull that bulkhead down and out, until that shock tower is off. 4 screws, with locknuts recessed in it. See how the tower, and bulkhead key together.






Number four... Even after all that, you cant drop the bulkhead out, until you disconnect the steering rack. The drive shaft cup hits it. 2 screws.


Number five... Top all that fun stuff off by having to remove that skid you see in this pic. 7 screws to remove the front half of the skid, required to access the diff.


Other than that, here are some things i noticed, and some things i liked.

Heres a pic of the diff gears inside. Small, but should hold up. The revo diff gears are small, and they do fine. Lets hope these hold up as well. The flywheel collett is in the pic for size reference.


And this pic has been posted, but notice the groove. I believe thats there for a future sway bar kit. Which would explain the holes on the upper arm as well. I also like that the caster can be changed on this truck, at the upper arms.

Bria1

Wow, that looks worse to get at the diffs than the TNX. Nice review of the procedure. It looks like it is set up so a 2nd steering servo can be added if you wanted to. Are you gonna have it ready to race for Sunday?

ThermalRD

Ya Brian, its a royal PITA to access diffs. I can take it Sunday, and play around. However i really dislike the linkage. Basically it doesnt always return to idle. Hangs up quite often just before it gets back to idle. Not much thought went into that setup at all. Also, the wheels im using need some different washers. I glued up some holeshots to some HPI wheels, and they have a ton of slop on this truck. Theres already a washer to be used with the stock setup, but i need a different washer for the HPI wheels.

scottywilkes

dang thats a complicated setup, but it does look strong. I wish they followed with how they did the MGT diffs, as its take the skid off, 4 bolts up top and the lower arm hingepins and its out, takes me all of 5 minutes.

Also that drivecup setup i dont like 1 bit, looks weak

ericem

If you were finding your diff cup set screw kept loosening up you were probably not hitting the flat spot on the shaft. Anyway definitely does look solid.

ThermalRD

Well, today its shaping up to be a nicer truck. I finally just ditched the stock throttle servo. It simply was too much for it. Tightening down the TRS and collar only made it worse. So i threw in an 8800T from my LST thats currently in hibernation. Break-in went great today, and its ready for the track tomorrow.



These are the washers i used, to get these wheels to work. Its a perfect fit! And i mean perfect. Snug on the axle, and tucks into the recess area of the wheel like it was meant for it.


For/Rev servo removed.






Right now its shaping up for me. I hope this truck works out. I'd love to race it indoors. The motor fires right up, and runs incredibly well. No issues during break-in. We'll see how it goes tomorrow!

NitroBurn1

All I did to fix the throttle problem was change the spring. I took a spring from a click pen, and it works good.

hajile1997

Could you post a pic of the spring replacement you did? I have yet to run mine and I want to do this to avoid any issues.... Would replacing it with a Traxxas 2018 servo be good? I have one of those and a high torque Traxxas 2055 servo sitting in my box unused.....

Also would a piece of fuel tubing work also?

ThermalRD

The fuel tubing definitely would NOT work. The spring needs to be there to return that carb back to its idle position, but also have enough room to give, when the brakes are applied. I'll try to find the specs on the stock throttle servo on this, and see how it compares to the TRX servos you mentioned.

ThermalRD

Here are the specs on the stock throttle servo.
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXFVD2&P=V]AE servo specs[/link]

And the specs on the TRX 2055 servo.
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXXF84&P=ML]TRX 2055 specs[/link]

So ya, that servo would be a decent upgrade.

duckedup

Nice review so far Thermal, looking forward to reading what ya' think after race day

Ryno88

hey guys, i just picked up my mini mgt today but my dad wont let me have it until christmas. ughh. he let me take it outta the box tho and look it over. it seems to be a very nice mt. i didnt see a problem with it, but i havent gotten to drive it yet so i dont know if i will dislike it then or not. i hope i like it considering im spending all my money that i have right now and a lot of money to come on this.

Snaut Rocket

Hey thermal how is the foward reverse mechanism.
Does it free wheel like the mgt did before the FOC.
And Does it have 14mm axles.

ThermalRD

Thanks duckedup, i'll have some more info tomorrow. We'll see what breaks first. Hopefully nothing breaks. Congrats on the new truck Ryno.

Snaut, it does have 14mm hubs. The axle itself is 6mm. So the Proline 23mm conversion for the maxx, and revo should work. As well as the 17mm hubs from ofna, made for the Revo. I own both, so i'll test fit them on this truck sometime during the week. As for the reverse, i have it locked into forward right now. The drive train feels nice though. Even with all the actual reverse internals still installed in the tranny. Im hoping they come out with an FOC, so i can gut the tranny properly. Hoping things go well with this truck.

Snaut Rocket

I would appreciate it, if you would try the 17 mm since i have those for my mgt.

ericem

I believe he is talking about this spring. When you move it by hand see if its very difficult. Also try with your controller to see if the servo struggles moving for braking and throttle. Maybe some had a defective spring that was to stiff. If it does seem to stiff just replace it with a less stiff one like as suggest, a pen spring. Doesn't really need a hole heck of alot of pressure to push to idle.



To bad AE didn't just make it a slide carb instead.... I guess that can be replaced later anyways...

NitroBurn1

Yes, thats the spring I changed. I used a spring from a Bic velocity gel pen, and now there is no more flex on the throttle arm.