Magic VF3 building thread
 

I was considering a building thread on the Mike Hester design Magic, if there is interest. I like to take the building one step at a time, if that would be helpful to those considering building this kit.

Since I've been flying the Brio design for a while, now entering the 4th season, it seems that the time is right to move on to another design. I flew this Magic last fall, version VF3. I specifically observed the handling during knife edge loop and rolling loop maneuvers required in F09, as well as the snap to knife edge. This flew superior to all designs I've flown to date. The decision to go this route was an easy one.

Don

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Sounds awesome Don- bring it on.


I'll give you $100 for your Brio. Just let me know when to come over and pick it up.


Dave

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Thanks Dave here we go.

OK, well the first thing I did was glue the two fuselage pieces together and then added the four stringers. I used a small tool for sanding good 45 degree angles on the stringer pieces. Used the bulkheads and formers to position the stringers.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

I glued the three firewall pieces together. There is a plywood piece, a balsa piece in the back, with the ply circle in the middle. I drew a center line and the engine offset line, offset per the instructions. I put some weight on it to let it dry.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Then I put the doublers in. I put the wing and stab tube in to make sure they were aligned, but found I could get them better aligned by just putting the fuselage sides back-to-back and then carefully positioning them so they are aligned. A triangle helped get these within about a 64th of an inch accuracy. The laser cut pieces are very accurate and easy to work with. I lightly sanded the edges of the doublers to get them to fit between the stringers. Then I added some weight to let them dry. Note the straight edge use when gluing the fuselage sides together.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

For the rear doublers I used the stab center rib to position the second-to-last doubler in the right spot. Also note the difference in length at the front of the right and left side in the picture above. This provides the appropriate right thrust built in.

Tonight while waiting for the fuselage things to set I trimmed the vertical fin sheeting and sanded the surface with a sanding block. I glued the leading edge on to the fin. I took a triangle-size piece out of the leading edge which saved a few grams of weight. The LE does not go all the way to the base because that part will eventually get trimmed off. It extends upward to allow for the top plate, or to be trimmed off depending on the approach.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Fin tip fitted, and in place. I dremel'd out the inside of the forward stab tip, saved another gram. I did not glue to the rear part of the fin because that will be cut out for the rudder.

Stab sheeting edges sanded. Its nice to match them up to check and they are in fact perfectly sized and matched.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

This is great, Don . .

Following it with interest [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Jeff

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Stab Leading edges glued on. Masking tape holds it tight to the stab, per the instructions. A block with 80 grit works effectively to true up the LE, TE, tip and root area of the wing. It is very precisely cut and sheeted, and very light.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Sanded leading edges with 80 grit sandpaper and large sanding block. Balsa is light and it sands quickly. Per plans just sanded bevel but not the rounded LE.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

more pictures

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Now, mark the lines on the control surfaces to cut them out. Rudder is first. Notice I did not glue the rear of the top part of the rudder to the block which facilitates the easier cutting out. The rudder, fins, and wings stay in the chuck which really helps to use a band saw for a straight cut. Cleaned up with sanding block. Ailerons measured per plans. Note recessed section for 1/4 sheet Wing TE cut which strenthens the section where the aileron cutout corner starts.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

More pictures. Wing TE is 1/4 inch, Aileron LE is 3/8 inch, Fin TE shown previously is 1/4 inch, Rudder LE is 1/2 inch. Future national champion

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Glue in wing capping. I used finishing epoxy for the aileron LE since the instructions suggested not using wood glue due to fear of warping. One very small drop every half inch near the sheeting/foam interface and a few very small drops on the foam near the root, tip and wood aileron horn block to keep weight to a minimum. Wing TE is 1/4 inch light balsa, Aileron LE is 3/8 inch light balsa. The quality of balsa supplied with the kit is outstanding. Its very light and easy to work with. Draw lines, (2) cut the capping, (3) glue on capping and hold with tape. Eye ball down the TE to make sure there are no induced warping and that its perfectly straight. I found that eye-balling from the end can detect about 1/64 th or less deviation. Metal straight edge can only detect about 1/32 inch or even more (remember a straight edge may show 1/64 on each side of it which doubles the error, or at least the ability to detect error.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Don,
This thread is great. Are you planing to paint this model or monokote it?

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Will decide on finishing after its all framed up. Sanded wing TE, glued end capping 1/8 light balsa, and tack-glued on wing tip.

Talk to you Thursday.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Each of these posts represents between 15 minutes and an hour or so each evening. You see, if you build a little each evening, even if its just a few items, the plane will continue to make progress. If you are contemplating building this airplane kit, it is a very positive and rewarding experience. Tonight glued on stab tips and began sanding the wing tips.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Sanded Stab tips. This is easier done before cutting out the elevators.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Great thread Don..

I'm looking at this airplane myself..

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Rear fuselage former positioning. A small square keeps the fuselage sides perfectly aligned while the glue sets.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Here is a template for the firewall mount, drilled for an AR-80 mount. Print, cut out and position for proper mount position in terms of a YS 170 engine mounting.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Mount marking for hole drilling.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Lookin good Don!

One trick I use when glueing up the fuse is to put the wing tube through the holes and align it 90 degrees to the center line. The method you used works well too, whatever it takes to get the tube straight so you don't have to sand it and adjust it later. You may have to anyway, but that step usually minimizes it if there is any need for adjustment.

Interesting new bolt pattern on that mount. Looks like I need to make a new template ;)

-Mike

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

I glued in all the formers, up to the F2. No need for any kind of fuselage jig. The fomers are cut perfectly and the fuselage is perfectly straight due to the perfect laser cut formers and corresponding notches in the fuselage sides. I put a few pieces of masking tape to keep the fuselage from shifting and to align the laser cut notches cut in the center line of each former along the centerline I drew on the building board.

RE: Magic VF3 building thread
 

Glue in gear plate, F2, and then the balsa floors up front. Then bevel the front deck ply piece and position the firewall, check adn epoxy in place. With the bevels, the floor plate fit perfectly in place. There is just a but of down thrust, which is built in to the fuselage sides, and matched up perfectly.