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  1. #1

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    Hi folks,

    Sorry if this has already been covered before, but I thought that I would share my concerns/questions all in one post:

    We're working through building one of these Raptor 30 V2 kits, and it's been a lot of fun, but there has been a lot of confusion and frustration as well. Without Michael's great advice at http://www.raptortechnique.com , we would have destroyed parts and made serious mistakes already.

    OK! (Deep breath....) Here we go:

    1. The entire engine assembly was already completed by the factory in my kit. Engine mount, fan, clutch shoes were all assembled at the factory. All that we had to do was install the carburetor. We didn't loosen anything or add Blue Loctite. The engine fit quite well right into the fuselage/clutch bell, and my eyes detect no wobble or shimmy when I rotate the starter shaft or main drive gear. Should I leave it as is, or loosen the bolts and Loctite everything?

    2. Do the plastic tail rotor blades require balancing?

    3. I didn't bother epoxying the Tail Support Rod Ends (Step 14, part 19) into the Tail Support Rods. We just used the self-tapping screws and attached everything. Do you forsee a problem with this?

    4. How tight should the linkages be (aileron control arms, elevator control arm links, collective pitch controls, flybar control arms, flybar control rods, tail rotor pitch arm, etc)? They seem stiff, but move smoothly. Also, how does one go about making sure that the ball/link junction is smooth and loose? How about for things like the elevator control arm links? They really aren't links like you find on a rod. They're thicker, and therefore not able to be "squeezed with pliers to make them looser on the ball".

    5. How critical is it that the parts on the flybar are in alignment? We did a pretty good job eyeballing everything, and they all seem in alignment (paddles and control arms). What things should I look for to diagnose an out-of-alignment flybar assembly?

    6. When I pulled the thrust bearings (step 11, part 11) out of the shrink wrap, at first it was panic because I thought that the bearings were destroyed. We quickly figured out that they are each in three parts. As far as I could tell, the two outer halves of the bearing are identical. Both are bearing races, with one side smooth. The smooth sides obviously face outwards. The inner bearing ring was asymmetrical. I have them as follows: the side with just the top of the bearings showing go towards the blades, and the other half that shows the entire bearing is pointed towards the hub. In other words, are the bearing races direction-sensitive?

    7. I plan on adjusting the linkages once the servos are installed. By this, I mean making sure everything moves smoothly and easily. Is this adviseable? This is really a part 2 to question 4.

    8. Should I go out and buy a blade balancer, or is this something I can make at home?

    9. Can I paint the main rotor blades instead of shrink-wrapping them?

    10. I had a part discrepancy in step 13. There are two set screws (part 5, HME-3-18B). These are supposed to go into the Tail Rotor Hub (part 18). The set screws in my kit were of slightly different length. One seemed to be "correct", in that there was the slightest amount protruding once we attached the nyloc nut (part 6). The other one was about 2 millimeters shorter, which means that the nyloc nut didn't quite fully grab the set screw. There is still good contact, but not as good as the "proper" set screw. Is this a problem? Should I replace the "incorrect" shorter set screw with one of proper length, or should I not worry for now?

    11. A note: we had trouble fitting the Tail Pitch Control Slide Bushing (step 13, part 22) into the bearings. The threads would fit, but then the rest would not. We ended up having to chuck the part in a drill and very carefully, with very fine sandpaper, sand the shaft down until it fit perfectly into the bearings. Maybe we were being too careful, but I wouldn't want to damage the bearings in this sensitive part.

    12. In your experience, what should I watch for when I pre/post-flight the bird? What parts tend to work themselves loose most easily?

    Sorry for the long post; we made a lot of progress this weekend, and given the poor quality of the manual, I have a lot of questions. The manual is good for an exploded parts diagram, and that's about it.

    Thunder Tiger would do well to search the Internet and grab the best "homebrew" instructions and include it in their next edition :-)
    Raptor 30 V2 - TT .39
    Futaba 6XHPS
    Cyclic, Throttle and Main Pitch - Futaba S-148
    Tail Rotor Pitch - Futaba GY401/9253

  2. #2

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    1. The entire engine assembly was already completed by the factory in my kit. Engine mount, fan, clutch shoes were all assembled at the factory. All that we had to do was install the carburetor. We didn't loosen anything or add Blue Loctite. The engine fit quite well right into the fuselage/clutch bell, and my eyes detect no wobble or shimmy when I rotate the starter shaft or main drive gear. Should I leave it as is, or loosen the bolts and Loctite everything?

    It’s always good to loctite the engine crankshaft nut as it has been known to work it’s way loose in flight. Also locktite the clutch mounting bolts and the engine mounting bolts. Also replace the muffler mounting bolts with ones that are slightly longer to enable a nylon nut to be fitted.

    2. Do the plastic tail rotor blades require balancing?

    Not really that important.


    3. I didn't bother epoxying the Tail Support Rod Ends (Step 14, part 19) into the Tail Support Rods. We just used the self-tapping screws and attached everything. Do you forsee a problem with this?

    Not really as you have the self tapping screws screwed into the plastic.

    4. How tight should the linkages be (aileron control arms, elevator control arm links, collective pitch controls, flybar control arms, flybar control rods, tail rotor pitch arm, etc)? They seem stiff, but move smoothly. Also, how does one go about making sure that the ball/link junction is smooth and loose? How about for things like the elevator control arm links? They really aren't links like you find on a rod. They're thicker, and therefore not able to be "squeezed with pliers to make them looser on the ball".

    The links are slightly tight initially and will loosen within a few flights. However having said that, just make sure you don’t bind the servos. Best to make sure you have at least a 1100mAH battery on-board.

    5. How critical is it that the parts on the flybar are in alignment? We did a pretty good job eyeballing everything, and they all seem in alignment (paddles and control arms). What things should I look for to diagnose an out-of-alignment flybar assembly?

    It is critical to ensure it is precise alignment. A simple trick is to use two pitch gauges and line them up. Also do this when you have the receiver turned on to let the servos keep the swash plate level. Another note is to also ensure that the flybar are of equal length. Use a ruler or tape rule to measure both sides. Or else the rotor head will be un balanced and will cause vibrations.

    6. When I pulled the thrust bearings (step 11, part 11) out of the shrink wrap, at first it was panic because I thought that the bearings were destroyed. We quickly figured out that they are each in three parts. As far as I could tell, the two outer halves of the bearing are identical. Both are bearing races, with one side smooth. The smooth sides obviously face outwards. The inner bearing ring was asymmetrical. I have them as follows: the side with just the top of the bearings showing go towards the blades, and the other half that shows the entire bearing is pointed towards the hub. In other words, are the bearing races direction-sensitive?

    No.

    7. I plan on adjusting the linkages once the servos are installed. By this, I mean making sure everything moves smoothly and easily. Is this adviseable? This is really a part 2 to question 4.

    No. Do your mechanical adjustments first. Then fix your servos. Or else you will not be able to tell if the linkage is sticky. Besides you need to also check for maximum travel so not to bind your servos.

    8. Should I go out and buy a blade balancer, or is this something I can make at home?

    Best to buy a blade balancer that also capable of balancing your entire rotor head. This is more critical. A cheap method for just balancing your blades is to get a long stud, a couple of washers and nuts and then bolt your blades together and then balance it on two wine glasses.

    9. Can I paint the main rotor blades instead of shrink-wrapping them?

    I suppose you can do that to wooden blades but you need to make sure that the paint is evenly distributed or else it will affect the blade balance.


    10. I had a part discrepancy in step 13. There are two set screws (part 5, HME-3-18B). These are supposed to go into the Tail Rotor Hub (part 18). The set screws in my kit were of slightly different length. One seemed to be "correct", in that there was the slightest amount protruding once we attached the nyloc nut (part 6). The other one was about 2 millimeters shorter, which means that the nyloc nut didn't quite fully grab the set screw. There is still good contact, but not as good as the "proper" set screw. Is this a problem? Should I replace the "incorrect" shorter set screw with one of proper length, or should I not worry for now?

    This is strange. Hey should be of the same length. Just check if both grub screws sits in the dimples of the tailrotor shaft. I suspect one is seating in the dimple while the other is not. So that is why one appears longer than the other. If this is not the case best to replace the studs of equal length or else you will induce vibrations in the tail.


    11. A note: we had trouble fitting the Tail Pitch Control Slide Bushing (step 13, part 22) into the bearings. The threads would fit, but then the rest would not. We ended up having to chuck the part in a drill and very carefully, with very fine sandpaper, sand the shaft down until it fit perfectly into the bearings. Maybe we were being too careful, but I wouldn't want to damage the bearings in this sensitive part.

    Yup this part is a bit crappy. I had the same problem. Better to get a metal upgrade for this part.

    12. In your experience, what should I watch for when I pre/post-flight the bird? What parts tend to work themselves loose most easily?

    Muffler bolts. Engine mount bolts, feathering shaft bolts, crankshaft nut, clutch bolts. Elevator A-Arm pins.
    RAPPY PAPPY

    Blood pressure is inversely proportional to the rotor head speed!

  3. #3

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    In reference to step 7. That led me to some head scratching. Now I'm assembling the 50. But on the 50 the two outer parts are NOT identical. But the difference is so slight that it's almost impossible to see. I brought the offending parts to the LHS. The owener used a micrometer (I think that's what it's called) to measure them. THey are positivly different. If I line them up one on top of the other I CAN'T see the differece. But side by side on a flat surface with good light I think I can see the difference.

    Mitch
    mumοΏ½bleοΏ½ty-peg

  4. #4

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    Do you mean Step 6 (Thrust Bearings)?

    -Paul
    Raptor 30 V2 - TT .39
    Futaba 6XHPS
    Cyclic, Throttle and Main Pitch - Futaba S-148
    Tail Rotor Pitch - Futaba GY401/9253

  5. #5

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    Yes, step 6. Sorry
    mumοΏ½bleοΏ½ty-peg

  6. #6

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    That's the word I just got via email. If you put both bearing races on the feathering shaft, you'll be able to rock one of them from side to side more than the other. The one that rocks less goes toward the blade, and the one that rocks more goes toward the rotor hub.

    -Paul
    Raptor 30 V2 - TT .39
    Futaba 6XHPS
    Cyclic, Throttle and Main Pitch - Futaba S-148
    Tail Rotor Pitch - Futaba GY401/9253

  7. #7

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    Also, referring to my original question 10:

    No, I looked at the two set screws right out of the bag. They are of different length, but by less than two millimeters. I think TT made a mistake when packing the bag.

    Both screws are firmly into the indentations on the tail rotor shaft.
    Raptor 30 V2 - TT .39
    Futaba 6XHPS
    Cyclic, Throttle and Main Pitch - Futaba S-148
    Tail Rotor Pitch - Futaba GY401/9253

  8. #8

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    Good tip on the bearings. Thye made a mistake on mine also. The alleged socket screws for the tail unit assembly. (hse2-10b)
    Unless the manual is wrong and they are not supposed to be socket screws. M2 socket screws are kind of rare I thought.
    mumοΏ½bleοΏ½ty-peg

  9. #9

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    Raptor 30 V2 kit questions

    Interesting that the tail rotor grip feathering shaft are not of the same lenght. I would think that a 2mm difference should not make a whole lot difference.

    Just spool the heli up and see if there are any visible vertical vibrations on the tail.
    RAPPY PAPPY

    Blood pressure is inversely proportional to the rotor head speed!


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