Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
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Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
I've read in various posts that clear acrylic, polyurethane and lacquer are fuel-proof or not fuel-proof. However, everyone seems to agree that Lustrekote is fuel-proof.
Does anyone know for sure if Lustrekote is a clear acrylic or lacquer or polyurethane or some other stuff.
Cheers!!
Does anyone know for sure if Lustrekote is a clear acrylic or lacquer or polyurethane or some other stuff.
Cheers!!
#3
RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
By the smell i think it is some modified butrate dope stuff. Dope is similar to laquer but not the same. Test if you are going to mix different products or you risk putting on something that may strip your other paint off instead of protecting it.
Tom
Tom
#8
RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
I do not think that Lusterkote is either acrylic, lacquer or polyurethane. It is my belief that it is CRAP! Just my opinion....but I have found it to be the most unpredicatable and unforgiving spray paint that I have ever used, and I have used plenty. I realize that opinions on LK's quality is not what the original poster was asking, but hey, it is a 4 year old thread so I figure it is fair game.
Mike
Mike
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RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
All I know is if I spray any of that stuff in a small room with no windows open, I get really high.[sm=bananahead.gif]
Luftwaffe Oberst
Radio Aero Modelers Club
AMA District II
Pulaski, NY
Luftwaffe Oberst
Radio Aero Modelers Club
AMA District II
Pulaski, NY
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RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
I used it to paint over Monokote, per Top Flite's instructions, on a P-39 Airacobra I built. Then I applied panel lines, custom decals, and top-coated it with flat clear LusterCrap, err.. Lusterkote. It looked great. After a few months, one or the other began to turn black, like mildew or mold was forming under the surface. I tried everything to restore the colors and remove the black funk, but nothing worked. I finally re-painted using Rust-oleum paints, and top-coated it again with Minwax satin polyurethane. No more problems.
I've used polyurethane to finish field boxes that had no other stain or paint on them, just clear polyurethane. It is absolutely unaffected by the fuel, even around the area where my fuel jug rests, which stays damp with spilled fuel. Nothing short of acetone will affect it.
I'll not use Lusterkote again on anything. Other brands of paint are better and cheaper. Only advantage is the color-matching ability to Monkote, but you can get other paints custom mixed to match.
I've used polyurethane to finish field boxes that had no other stain or paint on them, just clear polyurethane. It is absolutely unaffected by the fuel, even around the area where my fuel jug rests, which stays damp with spilled fuel. Nothing short of acetone will affect it.
I'll not use Lusterkote again on anything. Other brands of paint are better and cheaper. Only advantage is the color-matching ability to Monkote, but you can get other paints custom mixed to match.
#12
RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
ORIGINAL: dmccormick001
Only advantage is the color-matching ability to Monkote, but you can get other paints custom mixed to match.
Only advantage is the color-matching ability to Monkote, but you can get other paints custom mixed to match.
Problem is they've discontinued many if the colors in the LustreKote line. I can't find any Metallic Red, for example.
#13
RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
I think they may have switched as I thought it was a polyurethane, then found it was acrylic lacquer. Acrylic lacquer is fuel proof, other lacquers are not. Acrylic enamel is not fuel proof, some other enamels may be. Epoxy and Polyurethane are fuel proof. Apparently some fish oil based enamels (Rusoleum) are fuel proof IF and only if you let them cure long enough.
I think Lustercote has a cheap thinner which has little or no plasticizer, which means it will easily crack, especially if too hot when drying. You can find a better acrylic lacquer at yuor auto parts store. Costs less too. Name is Plasticote Truck and Van, some other Plasticote brands may be acrylic lacquer, but some are enamals, read the back of the can to be sure.
I think Lustercote has a cheap thinner which has little or no plasticizer, which means it will easily crack, especially if too hot when drying. You can find a better acrylic lacquer at yuor auto parts store. Costs less too. Name is Plasticote Truck and Van, some other Plasticote brands may be acrylic lacquer, but some are enamals, read the back of the can to be sure.
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RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
Hi Krazyflyer
Have you tried Polyurethane clear yet I use it on my planes it works very well you have to lay it on in thin coats about 4 coats will do it and it comes in hi gloss or satin finish and the finish is very nice. it's very smooth and a good fuel proof finish also a little cheaper than the LustreKote and you can usually fine it at you local hardware store.
Have you tried Polyurethane clear yet I use it on my planes it works very well you have to lay it on in thin coats about 4 coats will do it and it comes in hi gloss or satin finish and the finish is very nice. it's very smooth and a good fuel proof finish also a little cheaper than the LustreKote and you can usually fine it at you local hardware store.
#18
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RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
The main problem with oil based polyurethane,
(minwax brand) I have found is that it yellows in a very short amount of time. The yellowing is very noticable on lighter colors, white being the worst.
(minwax brand) I have found is that it yellows in a very short amount of time. The yellowing is very noticable on lighter colors, white being the worst.
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RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
I use the [Excel] brand and they say there is no yellowing and so far I have not had any problems using it. but it is made in Canada but here is a PH # they may ship to the US 1-800-361-0094 K-G Packaging inc. I bought mine at home hardware here in Canada .
#20
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RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
Oil base polyurethanes are fuel proof, however, they yellow in about 6 months. The yellowing is not too noticable on dark colors, but very noticable on light colors.
Water base polyurethane DOES NOT YELLOW, However, it is only fuel resistant.
The following caveats need to be followed with waterbase poly.
1. Let the poly dry for a minimum of 2 weeks before exposing to fuel/exhaust fumes.
2. Do not leat the residue remain on the finish over 4 hours - at ABOUT 4 hours the finish will begin to soften.
3. I have found that 2 or 3 thin coats (allowing 7 - 10 days between coats) is as good as fuel proof clear coat providing the caveats in #2 are followed.
Water base polyurethane DOES NOT YELLOW, However, it is only fuel resistant.
The following caveats need to be followed with waterbase poly.
1. Let the poly dry for a minimum of 2 weeks before exposing to fuel/exhaust fumes.
2. Do not leat the residue remain on the finish over 4 hours - at ABOUT 4 hours the finish will begin to soften.
3. I have found that 2 or 3 thin coats (allowing 7 - 10 days between coats) is as good as fuel proof clear coat providing the caveats in #2 are followed.
#21
RE: Lustrekote - is it acrylic or lacquer
Interesting comment here on Minwax Polyurethane. I'm presently finishing a planeusingRust-Oleum Painter's Touch. I tried applying Lusterkote Clear over the rust-oleum, but it crazed the finish in a matter of seconds. I'mtrying Klasskote Clear epoxy next. I'm going to have to test the Minwax Polyurethane for fuel proofing.
Jim
Jim
ORIGINAL: dmccormick001
I used it to paint over Monokote, per Top Flite's instructions, on a P-39 Airacobra I built. Then I applied panel lines, custom decals, and top-coated it with flat clear LusterCrap, err.. Lusterkote. It looked great. After a few months, one or the other began to turn black, like mildew or mold was forming under the surface. I tried everything to restore the colors and remove the black funk, but nothing worked. I finally re-painted using Rust-oleum paints, and top-coated it again with Minwax satin polyurethane. No more problems.
I've used polyurethane to finish field boxes that had no other stain or paint on them, just clear polyurethane. It is absolutely unaffected by the fuel, even around the area where my fuel jug rests, which stays damp with spilled fuel. Nothing short of acetone will affect it.
I'll not use Lusterkote again on anything. Other brands of paint are better and cheaper. Only advantage is the color-matching ability to Monkote, but you can get other paints custom mixed to match.
I used it to paint over Monokote, per Top Flite's instructions, on a P-39 Airacobra I built. Then I applied panel lines, custom decals, and top-coated it with flat clear LusterCrap, err.. Lusterkote. It looked great. After a few months, one or the other began to turn black, like mildew or mold was forming under the surface. I tried everything to restore the colors and remove the black funk, but nothing worked. I finally re-painted using Rust-oleum paints, and top-coated it again with Minwax satin polyurethane. No more problems.
I've used polyurethane to finish field boxes that had no other stain or paint on them, just clear polyurethane. It is absolutely unaffected by the fuel, even around the area where my fuel jug rests, which stays damp with spilled fuel. Nothing short of acetone will affect it.
I'll not use Lusterkote again on anything. Other brands of paint are better and cheaper. Only advantage is the color-matching ability to Monkote, but you can get other paints custom mixed to match.