goodinmw

Laying light (3/4 oz) fiberglass on a model to start the fiberglassing processes can be troublesome- gettig it wrinkle free before you start applying resin is critcal.
Smoothing it out with just about anything (especially hands) usually ends up with nasty snags...
I used to use a dry, very fine, high grade paint brush, but even that had some problems.
Something stumbled across recently and worked beautifully- was compressed air in the form of "dust-off", a product readily available from most computer suppliers and I think even Costco.
A light touch on the trigger and a smooth controllable stream of air almost effortlessly pushes the waves out of the fiberlass, and no snags!
Mark

grimmy55

Why not try what I do ,,I tack down the fibreglass with CA then its held in place before I put the resin onto it ,works atreat

grimmy55

also after you,ve done with the fibreglassing pat it dry with a dry piece of paper towel to get rid of surpus resin it,ll,cure up quicker and give you an overall better job

Goran619

My Feedback: (2)

I mix up enough resin with a couple drops of denatured alcohol mix it up in a plastic cup and then apply it with an epoxy brush. I lightly apply it over the fiberglass and will smooth out most of the bubbles as I go. I brush in all directions to stretch it across my work surface.
Jordan

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I aply the resin to the area first and then lay the cloth.  I use a foam brush to smooth the cloth.  I even use my fingertips.  It works better with smaller pieces.

Avaiojet

I've never had an issue with cloth not sticking.

I always put one light reduced coat of resin on the model first. Let dry. then I place my cloth, apply my resin with a soft 1" artists brush. Again, I control the thickness of the resin.

I blot this second coat with toilet paper. The paper picks up access.

I use only polyester resin.

Been doing it this way for a long long time. I will continue to do it this way.

LesUyeda

If you spray the surface with a LIGHT coat of 3M 77, first; then when you apply the cloth, and resin, the cloth will not move around on you,.

Les

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

Actually, any brand of spray contac adhesive will work. Really works well for holding the cloth before adding the resin. I just sorta fog on a light coat and let it settle on the surface.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I've done the spray adhesive too. It works good on compound surfaces. Just be careful laying the cloth. I've also done it without the adhesive. I only use one coat of reson and spread with a credit card. Then a roll of TP to soak up any excess and another quick pass with the credit card again to knock off any grainy surface. After cured, then I rub in a mix of water and light weight spackling mixed about a litte thicker than milk, rubbed in with my fingers to fill the weave. Sand it off and primer. This is only on sheeted surfaces. I dont glass for strength, just to get a good paint surface.
Edwin

LesUyeda

"Actually, any brand of spray contac adhesive will work. "

Signs of the times: In "my day", the only thing available was 3M 77:-)))))))))))))

Les

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

I just put a normal coat of resin down, un-thinned. by thinning the resin, your just weakening the resin unless the manufacturer specifically approves of a method to thin the resin.

Then i juts put some 100% pure polyester "dress liner" fabric over the part with the fiberglass cloth already on and wet out while the fiberglass cloth is STILL wet.. yes, the resin is not cured at this point. Put the polyester cloth down, smooth it out. then leave to cure over-night. Once its cured, peel the dress liner polyester cloth off. you are left with a surface that is ready to paint. No sanding necessary, just use a quality high-build primer.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

Lemme see if Iam reading this right.
You put down the fiberglass cloth and resin. Then you cover the cloth with this dress liner fabric? No sanding required? Why wouldnt the dress liner adhere to the glass resin? This could be a huge breakthru for those of us who hate to sand.

bunsen

One easy way to get the lightweight fiberglass cloth to smooth out , before applying the resin, is to use an old fashioned drafting brush.  It creats enough static electricity so that the 3/4 oz. cloth lays down nicely.  Dave Platt describes it in one of his DVD's as I recall.

If there are wrinkles just "brush" them out.  Works for me.

Ray

LesUyeda

"You put down the fiberglass cloth and resin. Then you cover the cloth with this dress liner fabric? No sanding required? Why wouldnt the dress liner adhere to the glass resin? This could be a huge breakthru for those of us who hate to sand. "

Did my son's full size Long EZ in this fashion. As I recall the "dress liner" was called "peel ply", that did exactly what you describe. I don't remember all the details, but seems like "sticktion" depends on the type of fabric, and the type of resin. Epoxy sticks to everything, polyester does not.

Les

jaka

Hi!'
No good ! Dried Ca glue makes small hard dimples!
It's soo easy! Just use a thin yellow spreader from SIG...or your hands! No problem!!

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

I 3rd or 4th this suggestion.

Avaiojet

Contact adheasive under the cloth.

Why "contaminate" the surface with a chemical, totally unrelated to the resin? Explain that.

Gotta be the absolute most preposterous thing I've ever heard, and I've been applying resin and cloth to balsa wood for almost 30 years. It's not needed.

You put the resin on the and the resin holds the cloth. If it gives you trouble, but a frickin pin in!

When we silked we had pins everywhere. I've never needed a pin for glass cloth.

Hey! Use Orange Juice! But you must use only the artifical one.

I always drop this photo in because it's the only model I have a good photo of. Still looks brand new today.

Scrarch built in the 80's, glass and resin, automotive paint products, brushing enamels, gold leaf, finished in automotive clear.

No 3M #77. A shocker.

Charles

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

It doesnt contaminate. To each his own.
Edwin

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

Keeps technique of contaminating epoxy 50/50 with thinner and brushing it on like paint to himself.

Avaiojet

With all due respect.

It does contaminate because it's not resin.

Epoxy! I don't use it.

Only as a glue. I use 5 min. and 45 min.

I only use polyester resin which I sometimes thin with acetone. Depends how I'm using it.

I make nothing up and I'm no hack. The "Avenger" is proof of the pudding. Actually a WRAM Show award winning model.

HEY! That was the 80's! I've improved in the quality of my building since then. I still use all the same products!

TomCrump

I was in paint manufacturing for over 30 years. We regularly "contaminated" epoxy with thinners.

AmishWarlord

My Feedback: (5)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uOoFbz3eLQ

skip ahead 3 mins to get to the cloth.

Avaiojet

Tom,

With all due respect, your misuse of the word ""contaminated" could be misleading to those trying to learn something.

Charles

LesUyeda

"Why "contaminate" the surface with a chemical, totally unrelated to the resin? Explain that. "

Read, digest, and understand the whole thread. not just the excerpts that you don't agree with.:-(((((((((((((((((((((((

Les

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I dont understand. Are you trying to tell us what we've been doing all these years doesnt work? How can you say that?
Edwin