iflircaircraft

OK, I was doing my "go over everything before my maiden" check. I'm pulling my ailerons, elevators and rudder...all good. checking all my set screws, landing gear bolts etc etc. Just when I'm finishing I over-tightened the SHCS on the axle and it broke off flush with the collar.
How do I get the headless screw from the axle?

Tom

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

If you did not grind a flat spot on the axle for the set-screw to screw into just grab it with a pair of pliers and twist & pull it off . They don't hold real good on hardened axles. If that don't work get a Dremel & cut away. Good luck , Max H.

aymodeler

My Feedback: (3)

Bummer! I would probably play it safe and drill out the screw. You'll trash the collar but that is no big expense.

iflircaircraft

I always file a flat spot on the strut. I never had a wheel come off but did have one turn 90 degrees and act like a brake and tear up a wing. Thanks for the advice but what I did worked just the same. I used a narrow cut off wheel on my dremel and slotted the axle and screw head and with a bit of swearing and force the screw finally came out. Thankfully I had a spare axle lying around.

Tom

TotalWreck

All I need is just a bit tighter, little more about their, Bam...You inanimate object, why would you do me like that? Insert various swear words. Glad you got it.

Ed Smith

You have experienced the "advantages" of cheap asian junk.

In future use only socket fasteners manufactured by "Allen" or "Holo-krome" available from REPUTABLE Industrial suppliers.

Ed s

jaka

Hi!
...Or fasten you wheel with two soldered on, thin spacers instead! Much more reliableĀ“!

mustangman177

I too am a believer in this method. Of course, this means you probably have permanently attached the wheel to the axle.

hemiflyer1

My Feedback: (2)

I like to put a 3/16"piece of fuel tubing on the axle after the wheel collar, as a little cheap insurance that the wheel will stay put.

Clean

Toss your internal set screws and replace them with proper bolts.  You can tighten them till the collar splits, and it will, and not strip the head out. 

I use the solder and washers, actually I drill and punch tin stock not washers, on my CL planes.  It is lighter and won't come off during flight.  Reheat the solder and it comes off.  Fly a decent pattern in CL and have a wheel come off on landing and you've lost your flight.

You 'CAN' file a flat spot where the wheel collar locks down.  Probably doesn't hurt anything as most of us never change the size of wheels on your airplane and many will wear out wire gear before they wear out an airplane.  I've not really seen that be necessary. The  only time I've been bit by wheel collars is when I've relied on that terrible little set screw that uses a cheap tool of not precise size to fasten the screw with.  You never know if you get the screw tight or did the wrench slip or did you loosen the screw when you had to wrench the wrench free.

Replace the set screws and you will be happy.  I've used Dubro or Midwest or anything I had lying around.  If it was from a Chinese kit and I had a fitting swap I've used that too.