WacoNut

Hi Guys,
I have always hated putting the L/E sheeting on the wings, some planes are worse than others. On my recent build of a 1/4 Fokker DRI I tried something new(to me anyways). I lightly wetted the outside of the sheeting with Windex and let it set for a few minutes then I attached the sheeting along the top spar with Med CA. I let this fully dry then lifted the sheeting and applied Med CA along the top of the ribs and the L/E. I then used a heavy walled 1-1/2" metal pipe(longer then the panel)and gently but firmly rolled the L/E sheeting down from the spar to the L/E. Once the sheeting was down on the L/E I shot accelerator along the joint at the L/E.
This resulted in a pefrectly smooth sheeting that was well bonded to all the ribs and the L/E. If your wing does not have spar webs in place at this point you can always go back and wick thin CA along the joints.
Later!!
Anthony

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I do just the opposite. I glue the sheeting to the LE and let it cure, then I add medium CA to the ribs and spar and I have a 3ft aluminum level which I use to hold the sheeting down to the spar.

kenh3497

Well.... I think you should glue the middle down first and work to the leading and trailing edge

I've noticed some are making a cradle/crutch for the wing to lay in. The sheeting and the wing structure are laid in the crutch and polyurethane glue is used to bond it together. I think I saw this in the pattern section of RCU????

Ken

WacoNut

The 3 ft level work fine for little planes but when you start getting into 1/4 scale and up you need a bigger level
The metal pipe rolls gently over the wood without leaving any dents or scratches. I was just lucky enough to have a piece laying around.
Anthony

LesUyeda

The 3 ft level work fine for little planes but when you start getting into 1/4 scale and up you need a bigger level

A 6' level, like the one I have in my shed:-))))))))))))))))))))))))) Or 1/4" thick aluminum angle.

Les

JMZ

My Feedback: (2)

I use a 4 foot "Easy Touch" sanding bar (Tower Hobbies) on planes of roughly 8 ft span or less. The sandpaper keeps the bar from sliding without marring the wood, and also allows some pressure to be applied in the direction that you are rolling the sheeting, thus insuring good adhesion to the ribs. Get the outside of the sheeting good and wet and wait a bit until it almost lays on the ribs by itself. I also work it down towards the ribs a few times while it's soaking to help shape the wood. (Personally, I start at the leading edge and roll toward the spar, but either way works.) In some cases, I have actually done this without gluing to the ribs initially too, which also works well. The wet sheeting shrinks a bit as it dries, so the sheeting lays down nicely on the ribs, requiring only thin CA to bond it permanently. Sheet and cap strip the entire top side of the wing to obtain a fairly stiff structure before removing from the building board, and then glue the sheeting to the ribs with thin CA after removing the wing from the board. This method takes a little of the stress of having to work too quickly out of the process. Of course, depending on the wing design, spar webbing may preclude this method, but it does work well where applicable.

BTW...Hey there Minn, ol' neighbor! See ya at the TCRC auction Saturday!

cutaway

I'm liking the pipe idea....a length of 1" or 1 1/4" EMT conduit would probably be about right, and EMT has a nice smooth exterior.