spitfire66

Hello,

I am looking to see what you all use for a fuel proof clear coat. I used a mettalic paint that I need to seal and my krylon clear is anything but fuel proof. Thanks for the help.

Shannon

Square Nozzle

My Feedback: (1)

I use automotive paint. For clear I have been using Transtar Kwik Gloss #7844. It's a two part paint that wet sands out well with 1200 and 3000 and buffs to a nice mirror shine.

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

I use Varathane Diamond Floor Finish water based Poly-U. Satin or Gloss depending on what I am clear coating.

Dan

3dd

My Feedback: (6)

if i am doing a gasser i use menwax polycrylic,i wont yellow and is gas proof and water base

Rick W

My Feedback: (20)

Sorry Spitfire66 and to the rest who were offended. I was out of line on my response.

Rick

91zulu

My Feedback: (2)

Rick did you have to response the way you did. If you are tired of common questions all you have to do is BY PASS THEM instead of being an *****. There are thousands of pages of very common topics like the question asked. There are some of us that don`t mind answering them 10 , 20 or even a hundred times. Not because you know it all means everyone should. How about you go to the threads with the rest of the pros and you all play with each other. Darn you numb nuts make me sick. People come on here for HELP and if you don`t want to help keep your fingers off the key board and stick it some where else.

Now Shannon, sorry about this hard on, but I found out that water base poly works good for gas but for glo fuel, direct spillage may soften it and turn it gooie. Now if you are fuel proofing the engine area the best bet is epoxy thinned a bit with alcohol, resin , auto clear or at times I have used can spray clear.
If you can give us some more info as to where you would like to fuel proof. If it is the entire plane or just the engine area.

spitfire66

Hey rick I did some searching and didn't find what I was looking for. I am not the typical rcu user that just pops out a question without looking first. Quit being rude and get over yourself. I don't have all the time you do to search the whole entire rcu over and over for hours. I have a job.

A6TEXAN

DICK, I MEAN RICK
FIND A NEW HOBBY.

Crash-RCU

Oil base poly is glo fuel proof but it yellows but it doesn't really show except on white with is real bad and light pastels like robin egg blue ect. Yellows, reds, and darker colors work very well with oil base polyurethane. The oil base poly does have a slight oder but is no where near as bad as solvent paints

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

spitfire66 ,
Be sure to test the clear coat on a test panel of the metalic silver before you apply it to your plane ....
Some if not most metalic silver paints tend to go gray as soon as the clear is applied .... even after the silver has cured out for several weeks.

spitfire66

I will be sure to test both of them. I have a spare airplane that's perfect for experimenting on. I sure hope it does't fade or go to grey as it looks great with no clear coat. I'll check them both out.

carrellh

Spray can Lusterkote http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCZW5&P=7 seems to be pretty fuel proof. Some people have bad experience with the way it sprays. Be sure the nozzle is completely clean, and shake the can a lot, and it works better.

kenh3497

i used the two part house brand urethane from the local auto parts store. it's an "auto value" store. seems to work as good as the name brand stuff. I would advise thinning te automotive stuff a bit more than usual as in my opinion it lays down a bit better without as as much build, or thickness.

ken

speedracerntrixie

My Feedback: (29)

I have strted using this and am very happy. It's fuel proof, buletproof and no cleanup.


http://www.66autocolor.com/Spray_Max...pm-3680061.htm

spitfire66

Wow that Spray Max stuff looks neat! The aerosol can is a neat design that I've never seen before. You say that you have used it and it is Gasoline proof? You mentioned fuel and I want to be sure it wasn't nitro you were referring. When I went to the 3 major autopart stores the guys there thought I was crazy and never heard of any 2 part system in an aerosol can. I may have to buy it just to show them!

carrellh

The Spray Max clear should be just about 'everything proof' since it is a catalyzed paint.

Places like these, in your general area, may have products like Spray Max
http://www.blueridgepaint.com
http://www.truecolorco.com
http://auto-color.com
http://www.olatheautopaint.com
Some of the sites are almost identical so they may be franchises of a distributor.

Red Raider

My Feedback: (86)

Been doing this a long time but always learn something new. Thanks for the advice on the spray max. It may just solve one of my latest issues.

twn

Two years ago I started using Lordco's Omni-AU. It is a two part automotive paint. Colors cover VERY well with thin coats. Metalic colors need two or more to cover and look very nice sprayed over a silver or white. Omni-au is their one step application, PPG is their basecoat clear coat. I have tested the paint, once cured and it is absolutely fuel proof, not resistant but proof. hot 30% did nothing to affect it. But it has to cure. I found 5 days in a warm environment worked. Lordco can paint match to any covering color with their scanner. I usually iron down the covering to a thick white cardboard and hand it to them for matching.

I'm curently putting panel lines on my monokote covered p47 with markers. I cant use the ppg clear as it instanly makes the ink lines run. so I have to find a clear coat solution for this that will be nitro proof. Canada's new laws dont allow lustrekote and MANY other hobby related products to be shipped into our country. The p-47 is covered in flat (matt) olive drab. I might have to use a clear covering scuffed up to look like matt covering, cut into narrow strips and laid over the panel lines to protect from the nitro. I don't know what else to use. If I use minwax polyuerathane and it wrinkles say in the razorback area, I'll never be able iron it back down and a heat gun will make the covering pull away due to the convexed sheeting... stumped here...

btw, I tested the minwax polyuerathane spray stuff and its nitro fuel resistance is rather weak. I painted a test peice, with marker lines and let the minwax cure and I was able to wipe through the cured minwax with a 15% cold nitro soaked rag within 5 rubs. I'm not sold that the minwax is nitro proof or even resitant.

Any one know of any clear coats available in canada with a satin or flat finish that is nitro proof? Something that won eat marker lines (permanent ink pens...)

TomCrump

Did you use the Minwax polyurethane, or their Polycryllic ?

I'm on my 2nd season with a glow model clear coated in Minwx polyurethane. The finish displays no signs of degradation. I used the stuff from quart cans, though, not the spray bomb.

kenh3497

How about a very light application of the min-wax over the lines with an airbrush to seal them. After that cures, then spray the automotive paint????? I'm pretty sure there are "flateners" available for the automotive paints...... don't quote me though

Ken

LesUyeda

"I'm pretty sure there are "flateners" available for the automotive paints"

Yes there are. I still have the left over quart that I had to buy, to get a tiny bit.

Les

twn

minwax then ppg is a good idea! I hadn't thought of that. I will have to see if they are compatible. The ppg/omni-au & reducer is QUITE volitile, it actually bites into the covering...

I'm sure Lordco has a flattner addative. But the last time I checked the clear coat (which IS ppg) is only sold by the gallon and is about $150 or at least was when I checked 2 years ago... yep ouch for one plane!

I just had them match up the olive drab monokote with omni-au in a half pint, should be about $10. For the canopy... (I converted the plane to a razorback and need to paint the canopy)