RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

When you guys use rattle can paint on a hard surface do you sand the color coat tosmooth the usual "orange peel" surface and then clear coat? Or do you shoot the clear, then sand and buff????

James c harrell

My Feedback: (18)

What kind of paint are you using?

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

Rustoleum Engine Enamel...

James c harrell

My Feedback: (18)

Just painting my first wing with Rustoleum too. I have tried both and have had better results if I wet sand the base coat with some 1000 just enough to dull the gloss and take the top off the orange peel. I have been told this will help the clear stick as well. I was doing the clear to seal the stickers and trim in and keep them from peeling up. Have had pros and cons suggested on doing that as well. My problem with the Rustoleum is whether the clear is fuel proof. From the tests I have done it isn't but cure time may affect that. Time will tell. Are you using Rustoleum clear as well?

Rodney

There should not be any orange peel to have to sand off. You are doing something wrong if you are getting orange peel.

mscic-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

Orange peel is usually caused by not enough paint being applied.

jester_s1

When painting anything, it's always better to fix things early rather than late. Starting with the surface itself, get it as flat as possible before adding filler, then get the filler as flat as possible before adding primer. Don't depend on the next step to fix problems with the previous one. So here, you'd definitely want to sand the orange peel flat before adding the clear coat, because there's no way you'll put a thick enough coat of clear on there to fill it in.

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

James Yes I will be using Rustoleum Enamel Clear over the color coat to keep things consistant.

I'm going to shoot a stab in the next week or so, depending upon the weather, and see how things go. Based upon testing I have already done I need to let the color coats cure for a week before clear coating or the clear will make the sharp edges of the color run slightly.

James c harrell

My Feedback: (18)

PM me and let me know how it goes. I have to wait for my sticker man to finish up a few things and I will be doing my clear as well. I haven't decided what clear to go with but have been told that Rustoleum is definately not fuelproof. I have a piece that I sprayed for a test drying now and will try it out in a week or so.

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

Since I am worried about kerosene proof I think the Rustoleum I'm using won't be a problem. If I was using an alcohol/nitro fuel I would use Lustercoat clear over the Rustoleum, after the color had cured forthree tofour weeks, based upon what I have read in my searches on fuel resistance. The enamel takes much longer to cure for overcoating than does the lacquer.

James c harrell

My Feedback: (18)

I looked at the lustercoat and if it will go over enamel I would use it but my LHS couldn't tell me whether it would or not. Just said to test it. Have you ever used it on top of Rustoleum? I didn't use engine enamel just the regular gloss enamel.

LesUyeda

"Orange peel is usually caused by not enough paint being applied."

The only time I have had that problem was when I tried to apply the second coat, before the first coat has set up sufficiently. The new droplets of atomized paint formed impressions in the first coat.

Les

jester_s1

I did a test panel a while back with Rustoleum blue with Lustercote. The enamel had cured for a week and the Lustercote bubbled up pretty badly on top of it. I didn't bother with trying to apply it super light because I wanted to see if there would be a reaction between the solvent in the lacquer and the enamel paint. More curing time may have made a difference, and I'm sure spraying it very lightly and letting it flash off quickly would have helped. But I saw that it is at least possible for the Lustercote clear to attack the enamel, which was enough for me not to want to use it.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

If you are going to use a rattle can buy one of those handles with a trigger that goes over the top of the spary can button.
Makes it so much nicer to use them rather then always useing your one finger to press the can button down.

Roby

Whenever I use a rattle can to spray anything. I always put it into a bucket of very hot water for 10 minutes
prior to spraying. It seems to make the paint flow better.


Regards,
Roby

halfmoa

That's a really, really good idea!

Ralph White

Believe me. The rustoleum clear, both satin and gloss, are not fuel proof. The fuel will soften the clear and it turns to a dirty look. I was using only 5% nitro fuel.

The Aeromaster below is all rustoleum spray can. I used the regular rustoleum. The colors I used are fuel proof. I sprayed the fin with rustoleum gloss clear to protect the decals. The leading edge of the fin looks like I never clean it because of the dirty look the clear gets. Luckly I did not clear coat the entire Aeromaster.

Ralph White

James c harrell

My Feedback: (18)

Ralph, you said the regular red rustoleum IS fuel-proof? Maybe I should leave the clear off of mine. I am using all Red on mine.

prgonzalez

Yes, good idea. However, it is a risk to increase the internal pressure in the container without knowing how much pressure the container withstands.

Remember, SAFETY FIRST.

Pedro

Ralph White

Yes James,

The red, blue and white colors I used were all regular rustoleum spray cans. I think the cans are all white, nothing fancy looking. I can't remember what the numbers on the colors are but I posted them on another thread on this same subject. I don't have the time at this moment but I will look the numbers up later and post them here if I find them.

The colors I used are fuel proof to the fuel I use which is Powermaster 5% nitro, 22% oil. I believe they would also be fuel proof to higher nitro fuels but have not used above 10% nitro fuel.

Ralph

RAMFlyer

My Feedback: (65)

Any more advice as to when to sand if I develop orange peel? Just to get this thread back on topic, I am using engine enamel and will be burning kerosene so I know in my case it will be "fuel proof!" That was never the original question...

jester_s1

Ah, removing orange peel. After the paint is well cured, lightly wet sand it with 400 grit and then 800 grit. Use a flexible sanding block like a sponge so that you're making it flat instead of digging in, and use a light touch. It's going to be a tedious process but the orange peel can be removed. Once you're done, clean and clean again before spraying the either a second coat that hopefully won't orange peel or a clear coat.

LesUyeda

"It's going to be a tedious process but the orange peel can be removed."

After wet sanding, dry the surface, and look for any "shiny" spots. These are depressions in the paint that have NOT been sanded out.

Les

jester_s1

Thanks for pointing that out. That's the tedious part, because the difference between doing a good job and cutting through to the primer is only a few good swipes with the paper.

LesUyeda

"Thanks for pointing that out. That's the tedious part, because the difference between doing a good job and cutting through to the primer is only a few good swipes with the paper. "

Don't feel too bad. I botched the paint job on my wife's Pinto, and had to do the whole car.

Les