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"Glazing Putty" for balsa?

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"Glazing Putty" for balsa?

Old 12-20-2017, 01:20 PM
  #26  
Pylonracr
 
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I do not!
Old 12-20-2017, 01:48 PM
  #27  
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Hi!
I think I both filled any dings prior to glassing and after and have allways used brown coloured microballons and 24-30 hour epoxy,never wood filler.
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Old 12-20-2017, 02:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jaka
Hi!
I think I both filled any dings prior to glassing and after and have allways used brown coloured microballons and 24-30 hour epoxy,never wood filler.
If you are not concerned about weight that works fine. Epoxy is much too heavy to use as a filler. Lightweight filler under the glass is considerably lighter with no strength penalty.
Old 12-20-2017, 04:32 PM
  #29  
speedracerntrixie
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That is a really nice Curare! Either method will give good looking results but I tend to go with the lightest available. And I am a bit lazy, the light weight filler sands much easier the the epoxy and micro balloon paste.
Old 12-21-2017, 06:14 AM
  #30  
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Hi!
And to be honest... I tend to stay away from using microballons/epoxy at all prior to covering, I sand! But Brown microballons is not heavier than light weight spackle and if you use the right sanding cloth available (with is Hiolit 80 by Mirka and then use the best sanding paper on the market which is "Rhynodry plus" Red Line from Indasa (Portugise company) sanding is just a joy.
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Old 12-21-2017, 06:45 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by jaka
Hi!
I think I both filled any dings prior to glassing and after and have allways used brown coloured microballons and 24-30 hour epoxy,never wood filler.

Ahhh man seeing your pattern ship makes me want to get a glo bird again. Haven't flown glo in about 8 years.
Old 01-06-2018, 03:25 PM
  #32  
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I use glazing putty from auto parts store. Perfect feathering for me though it's only used on small indentations, etc.
Will try the elmers putty mentioned
Old 01-06-2018, 11:36 PM
  #33  
RDJeff
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I use the lightweight spackle, the Elmer's wood filler, micro balloons, whatever seems best for the situation. I think I'll pick up a tub of the Rock Hard filler to try out.

Now, if you want good sanding results, try the 3M Sandblaster Pro. This stuff is amazing! It's very flexible silicone instead of paper, and is available in sheets or rolls. Printed right on it is the claim that it lasts 10 times longer, and it must be true. Put it on a pad, or wrap it around a dowel, or "shoe shine" it. It's available in 100, 200, and 320 grit for any situation.
Old 01-07-2018, 07:02 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 91zulu
Ahhh man seeing your pattern ship makes me want to get a glo bird again. Haven't flown glo in about 8 years.
It is very well done.
Old 01-07-2018, 09:45 PM
  #35  
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I bought a big can of the Rock Hard filler, and mixed up a small batch, and really like it so far. Sanding it later will be the real test, but I think it's going to be a go-to product for me!
Old 01-08-2018, 05:49 AM
  #36  
scale only 4 me
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Yeah,, I've used that stuff in my carpentry jobs over the years,, it's not easy to sand IMO,, they don't call it "Rock" hard for nothing,,
Old 01-08-2018, 10:29 AM
  #37  
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Yes, it is pretty hard stuff, harder than the Elmer's filler. Sanding technique will have to be modified.
Old 01-09-2018, 01:26 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by RDJeff
Yes, it is pretty hard stuff, harder than the Elmer's filler. Sanding technique will have to be modified.
If that is true, what is the advantage of using this product ?
Old 01-10-2018, 08:30 AM
  #39  
RDJeff
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I'm thinking it will have more of a structural quality to it. We'll see.
Old 01-10-2018, 08:41 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by RDJeff
I'm thinking it will have more of a structural quality to it. We'll see.
I don't understand how putty can be structural. Can you explain ?

I'm not trying to be combative, but your answers don't make sense, to me.
Old 01-10-2018, 04:53 PM
  #41  
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My thinking is leaning more to using it for fillets, where I think its strength and rigidity will make it quite useful, plus its cheaper and easier to use than epoxy and microballons. As a regular filler, I'm not sure it'll have any advantage since its harder to sand than say the Elmer's product.
Old 01-11-2018, 02:45 AM
  #42  
scale only 4 me
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I did use it for a wing fillet on a Mig 3 warbird racer I scratch built some 25 years ago,, it was easy to mold and form for that purpose,, and it has a decent pot life time to work it
Old 01-11-2018, 04:46 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by scale only 4 me
I did use it for a wing fillet on a Mig 3 warbird racer I scratch built some 25 years ago,, it was easy to mold and form for that purpose,, and it has a decent pot life time to work it
I can see where it may have some use in that application.

Did you experience issues with it flaking, or coming off in chunks ?
Old 01-11-2018, 09:33 AM
  #44  
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Yes,, right where it got paper thin, but that was easy to repair and flair back in with light weight spackle

The biggest issue with that stuff was for the life of me I couldn't get the monokote to stick to it, the inside curves which are always tough were impossible, II had to cut it back and paint the fillets..

I'm sure it would be fine for a glass/paint process
Old 01-11-2018, 10:10 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by scale only 4 me
Yes,, right where it got paper thin, but that was easy to repair and flair back in with light weight spackle

The biggest issue with that stuff was for the life of me I couldn't get the monokote to stick to it, the inside curves which are always tough were impossible, II had to cut it back and paint the fillets..

I'm sure it would be fine for a glass/paint process
Thanks. The thin edges are easy enough to deal with.
Old 01-13-2018, 09:22 AM
  #46  
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"The Builder" on RCG builds DLG gliders. He makes his own molds and mixes epoxy with the rockhard putty for his molds. I did a mold for a duck call reed holder for a friend of mine using the epoxy/putty mix. It is very stable and very hard/tough. Sanding will be accomplished using power tools for anything meaningful.

I don't know if this info would be of use to anybody but thought I'd throw it out there.

Ken
Old 01-22-2018, 03:37 PM
  #47  
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Last summer I bought some Red Devil "One Time" light weight spackling to fill some holes and rough spots in the walls of our clubhouse before repainting. I applied it to some very shallow gouges in the drywall and after two and a half days the spackling still wasn't dry! I had to use a heat gun to dry it enough to sand it down.
I have read that some light weight spacklings do not dry as well as they used to. This was Red Devil brand so I'm not sure about the other brands.

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