Epoxy tip
04-06-2015, 02:34 AM
#27
Gee, if you guys only need that little epoxy, you're lucky. I routinely mix up a full small mixing cup. Then again, when I mix epoxy, I'm using it on several models at the same time so I rarely have anything left. Guess that's what I get for using West Systems, stuff's too expensive to waste but worth it
05-19-2015, 05:06 AM
#28
I use paper plates,,,have for years,,gives you lots of room to mix...dollar 50 for a dollar. when done just dispose or go to a different section of the plate to continue on {dollar store} 50 for a dollar
TAZZZZ
TAZZZZ
05-21-2015, 04:53 PM
#29
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Maybe I was extraordinarily lucky?
05-21-2015, 04:56 PM
#30
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For a nice slick (no sanding required) finish when you fiberglass a wing center section, just cover the freshly applied area with Saran Wrap (like use in the kitchen) and smooth it out with your fingers. You will get a perfectly flared edge and a finish as smooth as glass when you remove the Saran Wrap (of course leave in on for at least 6 or more hours to cure before removing). Be sure there are no ripples in the wrap as you smooth it out.
05-27-2015, 08:42 AM
#32
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I mix my epoxy on a 5 x 5 inch piece of sheet Teflon. When hardened, flex the Teflon and the cured epoxy comes off. I clean up any unmixed residue with acetone and repeat.
R.C.
R.C.
05-29-2015, 09:59 AM
#33
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05-29-2015, 04:54 PM
#34
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Tom, Thanks for the correction on the hardener. I went out on a limb and made that statement relying on memory...not a good idea with an "old" memory. I guess I should have researched what I thought I had read but i got lazy. So it's the hardener that determines the cure time. I'am going to play with that and try using 5 min hardener with 30 min resin and see what kind of cure time I get, just for fun! Thanks again for the correction.
05-29-2015, 05:26 PM
#36
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I don't know. Not doing it on an airplane, I'll just glue some scrap sticks together and see what I get. "Just for fun". You know, when I made that misstatement in post #31, part of why I didn't research first is that I couldn't remember where I had read about it.....well, DUH, it was post #19 in this very thread ! Talk about "can't remember s@#%".
Now where did I leave my AARP card again, I can't remember!
Now where did I leave my AARP card again, I can't remember!
Last edited by 52larry52; 05-29-2015 at 05:32 PM.
05-30-2015, 07:38 PM
#40
You guys got me laughing, because most of those thoughts apply to me. But, here's a tip I learned recently that I really like. To thin epoxy, heat with a heat gun the surface you're covering and it wont effect the epoxy like adding some thinner of some kind and it will spread as thin as you want.
06-26-2015, 03:03 PM
#43
I've ran across this post several times over the last few months... and no dis-respect to the original poster... I just find it very odd to use "paint swatches" for mixing... very strange. Of all the items that are readily available... why on earth a paint swatch... 
I'm all for a paper based throw away mixing board... like a paper plate is a great idea... I actually use a coated(glossy) card stock paper, cut to small size(4.25"x5.5"), as I'm in printing, and have ample supply of whatever paper/card-stock I need, cut to whatever size I want..... I guess a paint swatch is what the guy had available... hmm.. there's much better material to mix epoxy on though... He might as well use junk mail to mix on.. saves a trip to the paint department. Whatever works for ya though. Good luck with it.
I'm all for a paper based throw away mixing board... like a paper plate is a great idea... I actually use a coated(glossy) card stock paper, cut to small size(4.25"x5.5"), as I'm in printing, and have ample supply of whatever paper/card-stock I need, cut to whatever size I want..... I guess a paint swatch is what the guy had available... hmm.. there's much better material to mix epoxy on though... He might as well use junk mail to mix on.. saves a trip to the paint department. Whatever works for ya though. Good luck with it.
06-26-2015, 04:33 PM
#44
I like the polypropylene lids that you get with coffee cans or Pringles , cannednuts. When cured the epoxy usually just peels off. A plastic coated paper plate works great too.
Last edited by Tom Nied; 06-26-2015 at 04:34 PM. Reason: added content
06-26-2015, 09:06 PM
#45
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I've ran across this post several times over the last few months... and no dis-respect to the original poster... I just find it very odd to use "paint swatches" for mixing... very strange. Of all the items that are readily available... why on earth a paint swatch...
I'm all for a paper based throw away mixing board... like a paper plate is a great idea... I actually use a coated(glossy) card stock paper, cut to small size(4.25"x5.5"), as I'm in printing, and have ample supply of whatever paper/card-stock I need, cut to whatever size I want..... I guess a paint swatch is what the guy had available... hmm.. there's much better material to mix epoxy on though... He might as well use junk mail to mix on.. saves a trip to the paint department. Whatever works for ya though. Good luck with it.
I'm all for a paper based throw away mixing board... like a paper plate is a great idea... I actually use a coated(glossy) card stock paper, cut to small size(4.25"x5.5"), as I'm in printing, and have ample supply of whatever paper/card-stock I need, cut to whatever size I want..... I guess a paint swatch is what the guy had available... hmm.. there's much better material to mix epoxy on though... He might as well use junk mail to mix on.. saves a trip to the paint department. Whatever works for ya though. Good luck with it.
Paint swatche are nothing more the card stock. Ive mixed epoxy on everything from inside of match boxes to business cards. Swatches come in different sizes. My neighbor is a paint contractor he gave my a bunch of swatches all they were good for was mixing epoxy on and tossing them. When i ran out i got some when we painted the house.
06-30-2015, 06:24 PM
#46
Here's another one that's kind of like my post in #40. I recently had to laminate some thin ply to some pine to strengthen it across the grain. I was able to put the the wood pieces in a microwave for 20 seconds and it warmed it up nicely. Should have put a hot dog in there with it, and I could have had a snack as well. :-) But seriously, it did make the epoxy brush out very easily.
07-02-2015, 09:14 AM
#47
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Here's another one that's kind of like my post in #40. I recently had to laminate some thin ply to some pine to strengthen it across the grain. I was able to put the the wood pieces in a microwave for 20 seconds and it warmed it up nicely. Should have put a hot dog in there with it, and I could have had a snack as well. :-) But seriously, it did make the epoxy brush out very easily.
(Heat makes it thinner, so it flows more and
as it gets closer to the heat it gets thinner.)
So, putting epoxy on hot wood thus will give
great penetration and strengthen the wood
in addition to joining it.
Jenny
07-05-2015, 01:23 PM
#49
That heat process is actually the preferred way of thinning West Systems epoxies according to their website. I know many like to thin with Alcohol but, as someone already said, it can cause the epoxy to improperly cure.
07-05-2015, 01:54 PM
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I never use alcohol to thin epoxy. I use acetone
instead. It evaporates pretty quickly so the
epoxy thickens up and stays in place. I don't
know if any remains in the cured epoxy like
alcohol (which always contains water) to
weaken the epoxy. I only thin epoxy when
I am using it as a sealant, like inside the
fuel tank area or wing saddle.
I read that using vinegar to cleanup epoxy
will allow it to be absorbed through the skin.
Rubbing alcohol for cleanup supposedly
doesn't do this. Just to be on the safe side
I always use rubber gloves when I expect
the glue job to get messy.
I also always start the glue job by getting
ready for a spill, which is almost inevitable.
Have more than enough paper towels
already torn off, and some alcohol opened.
I also have something handy to scratch my nose.
A hat, headband, or bandana is handy for long
hair, which always tries to get into the glue.
Somewhere you want to place a clamp
will have epoxy squeezed out or smeared
over. Have a ziplock plastic baggie ready
to lay over the glue so that the clamp
doesn't become part of the project.
Your fingers will be too sticky to work
with a piece of Glad wrap, but the ziplock
will hold the baggie flat so you can position it.
Finally no matter how many clamps you
expect to use, you will always need more,
so have extras already opened and ready.
Jenny
instead. It evaporates pretty quickly so the
epoxy thickens up and stays in place. I don't
know if any remains in the cured epoxy like
alcohol (which always contains water) to
weaken the epoxy. I only thin epoxy when
I am using it as a sealant, like inside the
fuel tank area or wing saddle.
I read that using vinegar to cleanup epoxy
will allow it to be absorbed through the skin.
Rubbing alcohol for cleanup supposedly
doesn't do this. Just to be on the safe side
I always use rubber gloves when I expect
the glue job to get messy.
I also always start the glue job by getting
ready for a spill, which is almost inevitable.
Have more than enough paper towels
already torn off, and some alcohol opened.
I also have something handy to scratch my nose.
A hat, headband, or bandana is handy for long
hair, which always tries to get into the glue.
Somewhere you want to place a clamp
will have epoxy squeezed out or smeared
over. Have a ziplock plastic baggie ready
to lay over the glue so that the clamp
doesn't become part of the project.
Your fingers will be too sticky to work
with a piece of Glad wrap, but the ziplock
will hold the baggie flat so you can position it.
Finally no matter how many clamps you
expect to use, you will always need more,
so have extras already opened and ready.
Jenny