piperjon

Hi Guy's,

Not sure here what to do. First I got the Poly-lite cloth to cover my wings and fuse on a 1/4 scale Tiger Moth. After I have used the sig "Stick-It" to hold the cloth on my wings and fuse. Do I add dope over all of the cloth after I have use the iron to shrink the "Poly-Lite" and then dope it all. OR just paint when I am ready??????????


John

sensei

Yes dope it all prior to any top coats.

Bob

piperjon

Thanks Bob,

thin the dope out??
John

Jennifer Curtis

I'm not sure about Stits Poly Lite, but
Stits Poly Fiber is very particular about
glue and paint. A well known and respected
full scale airplane builder used Poly Fiber
with dope. The fabric came off in flight,
causing the plane to crash, and killing
him and his wife.

For RC, it isn't quite as critical, but you
still don't want your plane to come apart
at the wrong time. Please look into the
details about glue and paints for Poly Lite.

Jenny

acerc

I use Stits exclusively and I use the Sigs Sticks-it to adhere the Poly-lite to the structure around the perimeter. I have had no issue in several years, but I do test compatibility prior to use and would highly recommend anyone to do the same when mixing any brand or type. Below are a few of the models I have built with Stits.

piperjon

Hi Jenny,
I did go and read all the info regarding what to use. Because it only informs you to use their produces. My problem is I live in Australia and these produces I cannot find any where here. So I have to use what I have read about other produces that do the same job.

Robert,
Thank you for your info as I was going to use Sig "Stick-It" to bond the Poly-Lite to my wings and fuse. But Robert do I use dope after the P-L is on my model or just under coat and paint??
Thanks
John

RBACONS

My Feedback: (3)

There is no need to use dope after shrinking the fabric. Undercoat and paint is fine. Mostly the undercoat is to seal the weave as the material, like any woven fabric, is porous or to help fill the weave if you are going for a non-fabric look. If you use something other than the Poly Tone products, I would make sure it has some inherent flexibility when dry/cured.

Jennifer Curtis

Try SkyShop Australia. They sell the same stuff aircraft spruce has.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com.au/ (note the au domain)

Here is the link to covering supplies including Stits:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com.au/Covering.asp

Jenny

piperjon

thanks.
john

acerc

Depending on how you want the finish is how much you fill the weave. I like two coats of poly-brush sprayed on for a fabric look but three for a hot rod finish. I don't do anything to the structure because the poly-brush will soak through enough to bond the fabric with the first coat. The second and third is just for filing as desired. The poly-spray is also a choice not a necessity, if you don't want to see through the frame after finish then a coat prevents it.
I would assume you want a fabric look with a Tiger Moth, so, spray two coats of Poly-Brush then paint your colors.
I have had to remove a covering job before and can honestly say it sticks far better than I would have ever thought, a nightmare of a job.
There are a number of things that can be done and some are not an absolute. If you are looking at the Stits system I would be more than happy to go through the process with what you want in mind.

piperjon

Robert,
are you in Qld???

piperjon

No I seen your profile and your from FL. Queensland is also know as the Sun shine state.

piperjon

Ok Robert, The problem I have down under is buying the items I want to do the job. I was able to buy the SIG "Stick-It" from a model store or shop not that far away from me. Anything with Stits I can only buy from Victoria or New Zealand. The 2 places send the items by road not by air freight and the cost is very high. If I want to buy a tin of "Brush-Lite" would cost me around $100 AUD plus the cost of the tin. They call anything that is tin or bottle is called dangerous freight and charge you more to ship it. So I think I will just use the SIG stuff and just put on a coat or two of under coat and then the top coat which is yellow as per photo. this is the one I am copping not the bottom photo

Jennifer Curtis

If you visit your local airport they may
have some of various paints and glues
on hand. If not they probably will know
if it is available nearby.

There may also be a pilot who would
enjoy flying you to another airport that
stocks the stuff. If you pay for the avgas
it will probably cost less than hazmat
shipping and will certainly be more fun.

Jenny

sensei

I also use Stits covering system on both full scale and R/C models. On full scale I always use a certified topcoat system over the Ceconite covering like Poly Tone or Aerothane. On models I have built and covered with Stits long ago I found that after the Poly Spray ultraviolet barrier coat was applied and scuff sanded I could spray 2 medium coats of automotive grade urethane high build primer surfacer and achieve excellent adhesion qualities, sand carefully between those coats, first with 180 grit followed with 320 grit while removing all excess material/weight leaving only enough primer surfacer to fill the fabric and all surface imperfections. This allows me to spray automotive urethane base coat, clear coat systems over the Stits that by nature stick very well to euro primers and are very flexible. The R/C airframes in the pictures were all done this way. In the end as Robert says, it depends on the finish you are looking for.



Bob

acerc

You can use just about anything over this fabric, there are guys using polyurethane, latex, automotive paints, etc. etc. Just do a compatibility test of the Stix-it and what ever product is available local. Some guys here are even using hairspray to attach the fabric to the airframe. Almost anything works, just test it first, and then go for it.

I personally have not found anything to be a problem with the Stix-it after it fully cures.

piperjon

Thanks again for the info. I will use automotive pain the 2 pack stuff Or use the Monokote paint I can buy here which is in the spray can and under coat as well. Called Lustrekote by Top Flite. My only trouble there is the company who used to bring in all Top Flite stuff is no longer in business. So you see finding out what to do or the way to do it is some up in the air.

Steve S. Helland

My Feedback: (15)

I am here to save you. BRUSH on two coats of NITRATE dope before priming and painting <OR> SPRAY on two coats of thinned NITRATE dope before priming and painting. This SEALS the fabric and only partially fills the weave. Keep in mind that when you fill it all the way it adds weight...
There you go...

Steve S. Helland

My Feedback: (15)

It was either brush on two coats OR spray on two thinned coats of nitrate dope to seal the fabric so it doesn't leak air while trying to pull vacuum for lift purposes.

Steve S. Helland

My Feedback: (15)

One more thing...the "poly-brush, poly-tak, and all other products that F&N Enterprises offer are available worldwide. These products are used in full scale rag wing shops all over the world. Go to a local municipal airport to find out what the boys have.
OK, now I'm really finished. Done.

Good luck...OK now I'm really really done...

piperjon

Thanks i see how i go.