Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
06-08-2002, 11:00 AM
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Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
Originally posted by Vince
Just got a new digital camera, here's a pic of my trailer.
Vince
Just got a new digital camera, here's a pic of my trailer.
Vince
That is one nice floor, I like it. Its the same pattern I will use on the new shop floor.
Nice trailer.
06-09-2002, 02:36 AM
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As far as the wheels and tires go I plan on upgrading to a 12" wheel. Here's a good rule of thumb and that is if a 16" tire is spinning at a rate of 60 miles an hour you can figure that the 8" are spinning at a much much greater speed.
Randy
Randy
06-09-2002, 11:37 AM
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Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
Originally posted by aerografixs
That is one nice floor, I like it. Its the same pattern I will use on the new shop floor.
Nice trailer.
That is one nice floor, I like it. Its the same pattern I will use on the new shop floor.
Nice trailer.
It was one of the more easier things that I did to the trailer. I purchased four boxes of fairly cheap tile. Marked the centerline of the trailer, and started putting it down in about a square yard piece at a time. Finished it all one Saturday morning.
Vince
06-10-2002, 12:10 PM
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Home Made Trailer Box
Hello All,
Here are some pictures of my trailer project. Its dimensions are 6x6x8 and it’s been surprisingly easy so far. I still have much to do including installing the doors, sealing the joints, priming, and painting. A classic case of 90% of the work being done with 90% left to go. I test drove it yesterday and it rode well. My 6cyl Maxima pulled it very nicely. The trailer is quite ridged and tracks straight without rocking back and forth like I was afraid it would. I can move it by hand fairly easily. I’m pretty happy about how it is turning out.
JakeC
Click The Picture For a Larger View
Here are some pictures of my trailer project. Its dimensions are 6x6x8 and it’s been surprisingly easy so far. I still have much to do including installing the doors, sealing the joints, priming, and painting. A classic case of 90% of the work being done with 90% left to go. I test drove it yesterday and it rode well. My 6cyl Maxima pulled it very nicely. The trailer is quite ridged and tracks straight without rocking back and forth like I was afraid it would. I can move it by hand fairly easily. I’m pretty happy about how it is turning out.
JakeC
Click The Picture For a Larger View
06-10-2002, 12:35 PM
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Hey Jake that looks real nice, way to go! How did you get that curve in the front?
You mentioned that you test drove it checking for swaying, if you were speaking of the trailer entirely, they normally track very nicely if your C.G. is balanced correctly. If you were speaking of the box that you constructed you can always do what I did and construct an angle iron frame. Back to the trailer in its whole, if the tail of the trailer is heaver then the tongue area then you will get the sway, (trailer moves from one side to the other) one way to solve this problem is to put more weight toward the tongue area. Looking at your pictures I noticed that you had no cross bracing from the outside corners of the trailer to the front mid section of the main tongue, I am a little concerned that you might not have enough support on that area. Perhaps 2" angle iron bolted from the trailer to the tongue on both sides would help and allow you to add a box/spare tire etc... there.
Are you planing on covering it with metal siding of some sort?
Randy
You mentioned that you test drove it checking for swaying, if you were speaking of the trailer entirely, they normally track very nicely if your C.G. is balanced correctly. If you were speaking of the box that you constructed you can always do what I did and construct an angle iron frame. Back to the trailer in its whole, if the tail of the trailer is heaver then the tongue area then you will get the sway, (trailer moves from one side to the other) one way to solve this problem is to put more weight toward the tongue area. Looking at your pictures I noticed that you had no cross bracing from the outside corners of the trailer to the front mid section of the main tongue, I am a little concerned that you might not have enough support on that area. Perhaps 2" angle iron bolted from the trailer to the tongue on both sides would help and allow you to add a box/spare tire etc... there.
Are you planing on covering it with metal siding of some sort?
Randy
06-11-2002, 09:06 PM
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Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
Blackie,
You wrote: "Looking at your pictures I noticed that you had no cross bracing from the outside corners of the trailer to the front mid section of the main tongue"
Actually this trailer is a tilt bed trailer. If I were to put the cross bracing in as you mentioned it would make it a non-tilting trailer (not necessarily a bad thing considering what I'm using it for). The tongue runs underneath the flatbed form the center of the flat bed to the hitch of the vehicle. From the center of the flatbed to where the tongue emerges as it extends out to the hitch there is a U Channel attached to the flat bed that keeps the tongue from moving side to side. I think this should be sufficient. I really gave it a stressful test drive and it performed quite well. The box is quite rigid which is what I was worried about. The curved 90 deg plywood braces in the rear really helped allot. I originally had not thought to put them in (I've really never designed anything like this before) but I noticed the box was not as rigid as it needed to be. I had those pieces laying around from when I cut the curves for the front piece. Worked out perfectly. A side note is that on all wood to wood joints I used liquid nails as an insurance policy. I was concerned that over time the vibration and movement would loosen or weaken the screw holes and the screws could be pulled out. Hopefully the glue will take most of the stresses.
As for the swaying, Thanks for the tips. I do believe that once I get the doors on the back it will be a little tail heavy. I was thinking about making a mount for a spare tire to go on the front. I like the idea of adding a box to the front for such things as tie down straps, field box, etc.
The curve was a little bit of a challenge. Basically, once the sides were up, I cut the 2 foot radiuses off the front. Next I put the angle aluminum and 2x2 bracing on the top of the side pieces with enough room left for the 3/8 plywood top to slide in place. Then I soaked the plywood piece for the curved portion with water. Then I slipped the piece into the slot I left at the top and bent the piece down and screwed it into the front side 2x2 braces. To finish the top I slid the other plywood pieces in from the back and screwed them in place to the top side 2x2 braces. It takes some patience to get it bent just right and screwed in place, but it is definitely worth it. I think it would have been easier if I had cut relief curfs into the interior side of the plywood and then bent it. Oh well, live and learn.
Jake C
You wrote: "Looking at your pictures I noticed that you had no cross bracing from the outside corners of the trailer to the front mid section of the main tongue"
Actually this trailer is a tilt bed trailer. If I were to put the cross bracing in as you mentioned it would make it a non-tilting trailer (not necessarily a bad thing considering what I'm using it for). The tongue runs underneath the flatbed form the center of the flat bed to the hitch of the vehicle. From the center of the flatbed to where the tongue emerges as it extends out to the hitch there is a U Channel attached to the flat bed that keeps the tongue from moving side to side. I think this should be sufficient. I really gave it a stressful test drive and it performed quite well. The box is quite rigid which is what I was worried about. The curved 90 deg plywood braces in the rear really helped allot. I originally had not thought to put them in (I've really never designed anything like this before) but I noticed the box was not as rigid as it needed to be. I had those pieces laying around from when I cut the curves for the front piece. Worked out perfectly. A side note is that on all wood to wood joints I used liquid nails as an insurance policy. I was concerned that over time the vibration and movement would loosen or weaken the screw holes and the screws could be pulled out. Hopefully the glue will take most of the stresses.
As for the swaying, Thanks for the tips. I do believe that once I get the doors on the back it will be a little tail heavy. I was thinking about making a mount for a spare tire to go on the front. I like the idea of adding a box to the front for such things as tie down straps, field box, etc.
The curve was a little bit of a challenge. Basically, once the sides were up, I cut the 2 foot radiuses off the front. Next I put the angle aluminum and 2x2 bracing on the top of the side pieces with enough room left for the 3/8 plywood top to slide in place. Then I soaked the plywood piece for the curved portion with water. Then I slipped the piece into the slot I left at the top and bent the piece down and screwed it into the front side 2x2 braces. To finish the top I slid the other plywood pieces in from the back and screwed them in place to the top side 2x2 braces. It takes some patience to get it bent just right and screwed in place, but it is definitely worth it. I think it would have been easier if I had cut relief curfs into the interior side of the plywood and then bent it. Oh well, live and learn.
Jake C
06-12-2002, 11:49 AM
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Jake,
Just be careful of how much weight you put up front "hence on the tongue itself" with the length of your tongue there may be a possibility of it collapsing, that is why I mentioned the bracing. We welded a piece of 3" channel under my tongue for support, plus the trailer came equipped with angle iron for bracing. My trailer "was" a tilt trailer as well.
Liquid Nail is very strong stuff you almost don't even need screws with this stuff. After we had one side up which came out great we were going to try something different so we took all of the 1/4 screw bolts out and tried to beat the 5/8 ply from the angle iron (NO WAY!!) would not budge even with a sledge hammer. So we went with the original plan (like we had a choice LOL!)
What kind of doors and locking system were you planing on using? I only needed one door on my 4' wide trailer and optioned for the Cam Lock system, the same kind you see on the large trailers pulled behind 18 wheelers.
So thats how its done, soaking in water! I would never of thought of that. Are you planing on covering it with aluminum siding? I may put siding on trailer later on but for now I just used the Kool Seal on the top to seal the wood. The sides I will just have to try and keep dry. The angle iron and bolts became a problem for me as far as siding goes.
Randy
Actually this trailer is a tilt bed trailer. If I were to put the cross bracing in as you mentioned it would make it a non-tilting trailer (not necessarily a bad thing considering what I'm using it for). The tongue runs underneath the flatbed form the center of the flat bed to the hitch of the vehicle. From the center of the flatbed to where the tongue emerges as it extends out to the hitch there is a U Channel attached to the flat bed that keeps the tongue from moving side to side. I think this should be sufficient.
A side note is that on all wood to wood joints I used liquid nails as an insurance policy. I was concerned that over time the vibration and movement would loosen or weaken the screw holes and the screws could be pulled out. Hopefully the glue will take most of the stresses.
As for the swaying, Thanks for the tips. I do believe that once I get the doors on the back it will be a little tail heavy. I was thinking about making a mount for a spare tire to go on the front. I like the idea of adding a box to the front for such things as tie down straps, field box, etc.
Then I soaked the plywood piece for the curved portion with water
Randy
06-13-2002, 03:10 PM
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Blackie,
No, I don't think I'll be putting aluminum on the trailer. All I plan on doing is caulking the seams then using a couple of coats of heavy duty exterior primer then paint. What is the kool seal you mentioned using to seal the top of your trailer? It doesn’t rain here in Yakima that much but it does get very hot and the top is going to take a beating.
As for the bracing, now I see what you are talking about. You could have a point. I think as long as I am careful to keep the tongue weight low when I load out the trailer I should be ok, but it is definitely something to think about.
I'm installing two doors. One six foot door seemed like it would be too much stress on the hinges. My plan right now is to use two cheap slide locks, top and bottom on the inside of one of the doors, locking that door to the trailer. Then I'll use two heavy duty pad lock latches top and bottom on the outside to connect the two doors together. When I close the doors I'll just slip a couple of D-rings into the pad lock latches so they stay closed. This method doesn’t seem as elegant as I would like but it’s not as expensive as using two cam lock mechanisms.
Any Ideas anyone has on the locking mechanism would be much appreciated.
JakeC
No, I don't think I'll be putting aluminum on the trailer. All I plan on doing is caulking the seams then using a couple of coats of heavy duty exterior primer then paint. What is the kool seal you mentioned using to seal the top of your trailer? It doesn’t rain here in Yakima that much but it does get very hot and the top is going to take a beating.
As for the bracing, now I see what you are talking about. You could have a point. I think as long as I am careful to keep the tongue weight low when I load out the trailer I should be ok, but it is definitely something to think about.
I'm installing two doors. One six foot door seemed like it would be too much stress on the hinges. My plan right now is to use two cheap slide locks, top and bottom on the inside of one of the doors, locking that door to the trailer. Then I'll use two heavy duty pad lock latches top and bottom on the outside to connect the two doors together. When I close the doors I'll just slip a couple of D-rings into the pad lock latches so they stay closed. This method doesn’t seem as elegant as I would like but it’s not as expensive as using two cam lock mechanisms.
Any Ideas anyone has on the locking mechanism would be much appreciated.
JakeC
06-13-2002, 09:26 PM
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Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
The kool seal is used to protect the roof tops of trailer houses and drys with a thick rubbery coating. I used it on my roof to help protect from rain what little we get.
http://www.koolseal.com/newsletter/index.htm
You can pick it up at your local home improvement store. As far as the locking system I used here is a picture of it.
http://users2.ev1.net/~billie164/trailer/pic10.jpg
http://users2.ev1.net/~billie164/trailer/pic15.jpg
http://www.koolseal.com/newsletter/index.htm
You can pick it up at your local home improvement store. As far as the locking system I used here is a picture of it.
http://users2.ev1.net/~billie164/trailer/pic10.jpg
http://users2.ev1.net/~billie164/trailer/pic15.jpg
06-15-2002, 11:20 PM
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The completion
I have finely completed the trailer and heres the outcome.
I purchased three 12"wheels/tires from Pro Bass for $160 and replaced the 8" wheels on the trailer. I also added a storage/battery box to the front of the trailer. Also notice the power outlet box mounted on the front storage with the extension cord hanging out. I solved my problem of how to hook this thing to my house.
Here's another view.
On the inside I installed a 12 volt light with a light switch located on the upper left hand side just inside the door.
Another view
On the inside of the storage I installed a 12 volt battery and an AC electrical outlet that feed another receptacle on the inside of the trailer.
Here's a picture of the fan and power strip I installed on the inside.
This picture shows how I configured the AC/DC connections. In this picture you see the AC electrical receptacle, 12 volt fuse block, 12 volt lighter outlet and the 12 volt grounding rod.
I purchased three 12"wheels/tires from Pro Bass for $160 and replaced the 8" wheels on the trailer. I also added a storage/battery box to the front of the trailer. Also notice the power outlet box mounted on the front storage with the extension cord hanging out. I solved my problem of how to hook this thing to my house.
Here's another view.
On the inside I installed a 12 volt light with a light switch located on the upper left hand side just inside the door.
Another view
On the inside of the storage I installed a 12 volt battery and an AC electrical outlet that feed another receptacle on the inside of the trailer.
Here's a picture of the fan and power strip I installed on the inside.
This picture shows how I configured the AC/DC connections. In this picture you see the AC electrical receptacle, 12 volt fuse block, 12 volt lighter outlet and the 12 volt grounding rod.
06-17-2002, 04:22 AM
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Blackie - Trailer looks great!!
I am currently setting-up my own trailer and have been following this thread for some time.
I would like to suggest that you replace the 110 volt outlet with a GFI (ground fault interrupt) style outlet and then wire the other outlets through it to protect you from possible electric shock. It may be overkill but I feel that you can't be too careful when it comes to safety.
Again - nicely done!!!
Bud
I am currently setting-up my own trailer and have been following this thread for some time.
I would like to suggest that you replace the 110 volt outlet with a GFI (ground fault interrupt) style outlet and then wire the other outlets through it to protect you from possible electric shock. It may be overkill but I feel that you can't be too careful when it comes to safety.
Again - nicely done!!!
Bud
06-17-2002, 11:20 AM
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Everyone thanks! I must say that it did eat my lunch in more ways then one, but it was one of my most prized investments and worth every bit of it.
Bud thanks for the concern, I am way ahead of you
I plug it into an outdoor GFI from the house 
I don't plan on connecting at any other place although there may come a time where I may plug in at another remote location unprotected, never thought of that. Although I am no longer an electrician I still hold the ranking :spinnyeye. There has been a few times that the darn thing has tripped when I disconnect from the trailer, its that darn fan on the inside pulling feed. As far as that AC fan on the inside I am going to replace it with an 12 volt fan and install a custom built power supply conversion made from a computer power supply. This way I can run the fan from both power sources AC/DC, in the drive way it will be pulling from the power supply, plugged to a timer set for the hottest peaks of the day.
Randy
Bud thanks for the concern, I am way ahead of you
I plug it into an outdoor GFI from the house I don't plan on connecting at any other place although there may come a time where I may plug in at another remote location unprotected, never thought of that. Although I am no longer an electrician I still hold the ranking :spinnyeye. There has been a few times that the darn thing has tripped when I disconnect from the trailer, its that darn fan on the inside pulling feed. As far as that AC fan on the inside I am going to replace it with an 12 volt fan and install a custom built power supply conversion made from a computer power supply. This way I can run the fan from both power sources AC/DC, in the drive way it will be pulling from the power supply, plugged to a timer set for the hottest peaks of the day.Randy
06-17-2002, 11:40 AM
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Bud do you have pictures yet? I can't wait to see them.
And Jake keep yours coming as well. I must say that I do envy yours, its larger then mine
Randy
And Jake keep yours coming as well. I must say that I do envy yours, its larger then mine
Randy
06-23-2002, 02:55 PM
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Hello again
Hey guys, it's me, Crash and Burn the guy who started this thread!!
I have been gone for a while and just checked in and I cannot believe how many of you have posted on this thing!! That's great!!
I am sure enjoying my trailer and have a new model to haul around in it now. It's a 40% Carden edge powered with a 3W 150 and fits nicely on the floor of the trailer.
Here's a photo.
Keep it coming and if you think of it, put a rating on the thread!
Later,
Tom
I have been gone for a while and just checked in and I cannot believe how many of you have posted on this thing!! That's great!!
I am sure enjoying my trailer and have a new model to haul around in it now. It's a 40% Carden edge powered with a 3W 150 and fits nicely on the floor of the trailer.
Here's a photo.
Keep it coming and if you think of it, put a rating on the thread!
Later,
Tom
06-24-2002, 04:45 AM
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Blackie - I haven't started on the inside of the trailer yet, It's a commercially built enclosed trailer. I should be starting work on the interior sometime next month as I need to have it ready by November, as I hope to go to the Lake Havasu float-fly and that's way to far to travel with large airplanes (with floats) in a Jeep Cherokee. I will post pics as I go along with construction.
To all who have shared their ideas and experiences with the rest of us - Thank-you!! There have been many great ideas shown.
Bud
To all who have shared their ideas and experiences with the rest of us - Thank-you!! There have been many great ideas shown.
Bud
06-25-2002, 08:46 PM
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Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
All this talk about trailers had got me wanting one!! I curently use my truck which has an 8' box and fiberglass tonneau cover which works great with a plywood sheet on the bottom with holders for planes so they don't move around when I am driving. Now that I am getting more airplanes somedays I want to take more then two of them to the field with me and I am getting a new truck that is going to have either a 5.5' box (F-150 supercrew) or a 6.5' box (F-250 superduty) so there won't be enough legenth for some of the wings in the truck. My question is what size trailer should I start out with? The airplanes I have now and am curently building are in the 65" to 115" range with the longest one piece wing being 78" I would like to keep 4-6 airplanes in there at a time. What would you guys reccomend for size and most importantly how much am I going to end up spending on a trailer in this size range, and what brands do you reccomend? I fly airplanes for a living so I don't have very much money to spend!! Pulling it really won't be a factor in deciding on size as a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck would easly be able to pull most trailers. I am not planning on traveling more then a couple hundred miles(well at this time anyway). Any suggestions would be great.
06-25-2002, 08:48 PM
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I just finished bulding my second trailer, a word of advice, don't get it too small, you will soon look for a bigger one.