Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

I wish I had noticed this thread 2 years ago before I started on my new 6x12 V nosed trailer! It is not too late to steal some of the ideas, so I will do that.

My approach is a bit different as the trailer is used to move students to and from college and other 'utility' types of things needed around the house. That means my airplane stuff has to be removable on demand.

To keep the boss happy, I put in a floor cover that I can screw things into and replace if it gets too nasty. Originally I was securing planes to that but I realized that it severely limited the number of aircraft I could carry. I changed horses completely and now have much more utility.

See this post for discussion and pictures: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...l#post11887503 Post #17

I got a ramp rather than barn doors to ease access (bad knees) and to avoid installing stuff on the back door where it would be shook to death.

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

yep, thats why my shelf is on E track, its adjustable, and removable, when I get bigger or smaller planes, I move it up and down to suit. Or, when I have to move stuff, I take it out.

greenjeep

My Feedback: (3)

Eight planes are in here. A Stinger and a kit built Ugly Stik (on floor under the bench), a Sukhoi (on the lower shelf of bench) 2 Big Stiks and another stinger (on the top of the bench) a T-6 (on a stand on the floor) and an Ultimate Fun Fly. Wings are on a PVC pipe rack on the wall. I have now moved the Sukhoi to a rack on the wall above the workbench and moved the T-6 under the bench on a rack and my son did this to the Ultimate Fun Fly. Floor is open now!

aspeed

Just thought I would post a few pics. I have a trailer like this one, but these are all pics of other peoples stuff. I like the rear carrier better than a trailer, and actually have a tray that I was going to do something similar with. I don't have any monster planes though.

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Redjeep - what happened to the bipe?? Sorry for the crash - open space means new plane...........

My trailer mod is on hold until I find out if I am moving to Texas or not. Have a new 1/4 J3 Cub and Hangar 9 Corsair 50 waiting to be built to help fill it up.

Keith

greenjeep

My Feedback: (3)

Lost Elevator control. Knife edged in. Not sure why ele control was lost. Damage was severe. It was replaced with a Four Star. I salvaged all the hardware and still have the plans. No need to be sorry. It was an awesome explosion of black and neon monokote!





Oh and one of the Big Sticks met it's end a couple weeks later. Total loss of control.

PatrickCurry

My Feedback: (20)

I finally got around to priming and caulking my 6x12 trailer. I had work shelves in there and some racks for my planes but I took all that out. I found an old cabinet, rebuilt it and installed it in the front of the trailer. (Haven't refinished the drawers yet) Attached is a picture of the trailer before I primed all the inside. I will be painting the walls a latex, semi-gloss white and the floor and ramp a blue polyurethane floor paint I have.

My question is, do you think it would be better to paint the floor with the PU paint, which is slicker than owl poop, and then use some of those stick on traction strips after it dries, or would it be better to lightly sprinkle sand into the fresh paint?

yuconman

Nice job Pat. I painted my floor and while the paint was wet I lightly spinckled some fine play sand over the wet paint, worked great and clean-up is very easy after a muddy day at the field. I also found some "D" hooks at Amazon dirt cheap and screwed them through the wood to the inner beams for straping and bungy cording things in place, ceiling too.
http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Single-T...ywords=d+hooks

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I mixed sand with the paint and it works well

PatrickCurry

My Feedback: (20)

I hadn't thought about cleanup.... I guess it'd be easier to mop without the adhesive strips on there as I know there will be some muddy days at the field. I like those D rings too. I had before, and will putting them back, some of the regular double track shelf brackets with pipe insulation around them along each side that I bungied my planes to. Something like pictured below. Some D-rings in strategic locations would be nice to tie stuff down to. Thanks for the help guys!

bolar

My Feedback: (5)

I used the single bracket system and although it has worked well for a number of years as my planes got bigger and heavier, they put a strain on some of the horizontal brackets (slight bendage). You should do better with the double system. At first I just put pipe insulation on the horizontal, but found the bracket would cut into the insulation. My solution was to split a pvc pipe and glued that onto the horizontal with some silicon, then put the foam insulation on it. Much better and no damage to my models. One other thing, you will want to put a small sheet metal screw in your vertical, just above the horizontal bracket. No matter how snug it may be now, at some point your going to hit a bump and have that horizontal bounce out with a plane attached.

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

I use the double too. It locks in much better.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

While I am using a slightly different (read that as cheaper) system, the hint about screws is on target. I put 1/2 electrical pipe into 2x4 (upright fastened to the trailer) drilled (11/16 and then) sanded to fit and cover the pipe with pipe insulation. I added a plug to the end of each tube and I use bungee cords fastened to a screw in the side of my upright and one in the other end of my support tube to keep the tube inside the support. Bounces are terrible things not to plan for.

IF you have the chance, get a trailer with TORSION axles, it makes a HUGE difference in the damaged delivered to your stuff. Guess how I know...

PatrickCurry

My Feedback: (20)

I'll definitely add the screws in there, that's a good idea.

Also, I will be putting my car battery in the bottom of my cabinet that runs everything. I've seen where folks don't like enclosing those because of gas buildup.... is that a valid concern? Can I just drill some holes in the side of the cabinet to let the gases escape? I got the walls painted and all I have left to do is paint the counter top, the floor and strip and paint the drawers for the cabinet. In the attached picture, I figure the car battery will be mounted in the far right bottom of the cabinet.

Oh yeah, I also have to re-mount my light and electricals.

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Looks good.......... I started my trailer but had to put on hold because I am moving and need the trailer to move all my stuff. Once I am settled I will be starting it again. I have all the lights, electrical, vents, and insulation. Most of the insulation is done but I want to go back and pull out all the trailer wiring and add some spray in foam in places. I will be adding work bench similar to yours along with upper cabinets for storage and racks for charging batteries.

Take lots of pictures for us.......

Keith

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

I have a small 6 x 10 with a deep cycle battery in the back. It's on the floor but not in a cabinet. I charge it in my garage. I have a 2014 Dodge Durango and the battery is under the passenger seat but there is a vent to the outside. How and when will you be charging it as I believe that is when it really gasses. I would think some holes like you mention would be fine.

Fili

With one season in the book with our trailer, I still have some trailer tweaking to do.....

skyarrow1

Ok... have a question to all that have these great trailers. What do you haul them with??? I have a 10x6 V Nose Trailer that I haul with my 2005 Chrysler Mini Van that has the 3.8 engine in it. This is just not doing the job even though, the trailer does not weight that much. When driving highway speeds, it runs about 2800 RPMs because it won't drop into the lower gear and that is only running about 65. I like the mini van because I can carry overflow in there, wings and such, plus if I don't need the trailer, I can fit a 1/3 scale BUSA Cub in there with no problems.

So do I need to give up the extra space in my tow vehicle to get more towing power???

I look forward to hearing what you have.
Mike

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

I drive a 2009 Ford Expedition which gives me enough power to tow effectively and overflow for more 'stuff'. Since I upgraded from a 5X10 utility trailer with a home built enclosure to a 6X12 V nosed cargo trailer, the ONLY things I have carried inside the vehicle have been fuel, gas, and the transmitter. I suspect you get somewhat better mileage than I do without the trailer (~18 on the highway at speeds less than 80), but maybe the 2015 or '16 Expedition will address that issue. When pulling the trailer I have found fuel economy to be directly related to speed. Around 80 I get 7 or 8 mpg but it goes up as I slow down. At 70 it is around 13 or 14 depending on the road and wind.

My trailers are no where near as sexy as everyone else's, but they get well used. In 1996, I carried 5 1/4 scale or larger birds in the 5X10 and am planning to have 6 or 7 to carry and fly regularly in the current trailer (6x12). If I can keep them out of the trees.

This thread has given me a few pointers of tricky things to do that improve my trailer, pointers on things that waste space (the most precious resource in a trailer), and coupled with practical knowledge picked up (usually the hard way) have enabled me to improve my trailers effectiveness. I am constantly on the look out for things to make the investment more robust for my purposes and to keep the wife happy. Right now I am planning when, where what to unload from it to take my daughter back to college.

R/C Foolish

My Feedback: (6)

I have a 2013 Chevy Avalanche. Extra space and plenty of power.

k3 valley flyer

My Feedback: (18)

Are you shifting out of overdrive? My 2012 Town & Country handles a 7 x 14 v-nose pretty well, it has a 3.5 v6 with 283 horse and a 6 speed transmission, but I do lock out the overdrive. It is much better than the 2006 Town & Country I had, more power better transmission. Both had a factory tow package. Still more power would be nice.

afterburner

My Feedback: (18)

I have a 10 X 6 but it's lowered to fit in my garage and up until last year I towed with a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8. I even drove it to Kentucky jets from Virginia two years in a row and there are some long inclines. It did struggle on a few that had dedicated truck lanes so I maxed out at 45mph going up but on straight and level I would be doing 75 MPH no problem. The issue with those years is that it only had a four speed transmission so you will drop into 3rd and rev a bit when going up hills. Do you know the weight of your trailer? Did you put in a transmission cooler? I had that done at the dealer. Last year I got a 2014 Dodge Durango R/T with the 5.7 Hemi and 8 speed transmission. It's always in the right gear when towing. Pulls great. Just came back yesterday from Kentucky jets and through the mountains I was averaging about 13.5 mpg and on level terrain it's close to 15 pulling the trailer and averaging a little under 80 mph. It's a 550 mile trip each way and I left yesterday on a full tank and only had to fill up once to get home with about a 1/4 tank left

cjet

The question and answers have been about power and being able to run from 70 to 80. However don't forget about being able to stop. Electric brakes at those speeds or very good tow ride brakes are necessary also. A lot of rides will pull great, but can you stop quickly from 80? Hopefully I didn't miss a prior discussion on this earlier in this thread.

Dansy

My Feedback: (53)

One of the reason why I when with a dual axles...electric brakes, make emergency stopping a lot safer.

Jim Branaum

My Feedback: (3)

Very good point. Rule One for driving: My vehicle will always have the best tires, brakes, and steering before I spend money on anything else. Don't care about looks, don't care about heater, radio, A/C or oil burning/leaks because they won't kill me. Having grown up on the wrong side of the tracks with out the proverbial pot, that was my mantra until I began to earn decent money. The standards still are held as priorities.

Somehow I am under the impression that all the torsion axles come with electric brakes, but I could be wrong. That being said I will also say he who does not buy a trailer with torsion axles has never seen the damage springed trailers do to models and stuff inside. My first trailer was springed and it was a challenge to insure my birds did not get damaged. When I negotiated to buy my trailer WITH torsion axles I remember the factory guy saying "Do you really carry anything so fragile that you need torsion axles, they add quite a bit of expense". I found out that it had brakes when I picked it up in Georgia and I added a brake controller before the high speeds which are in west Texas.

Be safe and treat your models with care.