Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
#1851
My Feedback: (3)
I wish I had noticed this thread 2 years ago before I started on my new 6x12 V nosed trailer! It is not too late to steal some of the ideas, so I will do that.
My approach is a bit different as the trailer is used to move students to and from college and other 'utility' types of things needed around the house. That means my airplane stuff has to be removable on demand.
To keep the boss happy, I put in a floor cover that I can screw things into and replace if it gets too nasty. Originally I was securing planes to that but I realized that it severely limited the number of aircraft I could carry. I changed horses completely and now have much more utility.
See this post for discussion and pictures: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...l#post11887503 Post #17
I got a ramp rather than barn doors to ease access (bad knees) and to avoid installing stuff on the back door where it would be shook to death.
My approach is a bit different as the trailer is used to move students to and from college and other 'utility' types of things needed around the house. That means my airplane stuff has to be removable on demand.
To keep the boss happy, I put in a floor cover that I can screw things into and replace if it gets too nasty. Originally I was securing planes to that but I realized that it severely limited the number of aircraft I could carry. I changed horses completely and now have much more utility.
See this post for discussion and pictures: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...l#post11887503 Post #17
I got a ramp rather than barn doors to ease access (bad knees) and to avoid installing stuff on the back door where it would be shook to death.
#1853
Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: , FL
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Eight planes are in here. A Stinger and a kit built Ugly Stik (on floor under the bench), a Sukhoi (on the lower shelf of bench) 2 Big Stiks and another stinger (on the top of the bench) a T-6 (on a stand on the floor) and an Ultimate Fun Fly. Wings are on a PVC pipe rack on the wall. I have now moved the Sukhoi to a rack on the wall above the workbench and moved the T-6 under the bench on a rack and my son did this to the Ultimate Fun Fly. Floor is open now!
Last edited by greenjeep; 10-07-2014 at 01:35 PM.
#1854
Just thought I would post a few pics. I have a trailer like this one, but these are all pics of other peoples stuff. I like the rear carrier better than a trailer, and actually have a tray that I was going to do something similar with. I don't have any monster planes though.
#1855
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Redjeep - what happened to the bipe?? Sorry for the crash - open space means new plane...........
My trailer mod is on hold until I find out if I am moving to Texas or not. Have a new 1/4 J3 Cub and Hangar 9 Corsair 50 waiting to be built to help fill it up.
Keith
My trailer mod is on hold until I find out if I am moving to Texas or not. Have a new 1/4 J3 Cub and Hangar 9 Corsair 50 waiting to be built to help fill it up.
Keith
#1856
Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: , FL
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lost Elevator control. Knife edged in. Not sure why ele control was lost. Damage was severe. It was replaced with a Four Star. I salvaged all the hardware and still have the plans. No need to be sorry. It was an awesome explosion of black and neon monokote!
Oh and one of the Big Sticks met it's end a couple weeks later. Total loss of control.
Oh and one of the Big Sticks met it's end a couple weeks later. Total loss of control.
Last edited by greenjeep; 10-12-2014 at 06:46 PM.
#1857
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: LaGrange,
GA
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I finally got around to priming and caulking my 6x12 trailer. I had work shelves in there and some racks for my planes but I took all that out. I found an old cabinet, rebuilt it and installed it in the front of the trailer. (Haven't refinished the drawers yet) Attached is a picture of the trailer before I primed all the inside. I will be painting the walls a latex, semi-gloss white and the floor and ramp a blue polyurethane floor paint I have.
My question is, do you think it would be better to paint the floor with the PU paint, which is slicker than owl poop, and then use some of those stick on traction strips after it dries, or would it be better to lightly sprinkle sand into the fresh paint?
My question is, do you think it would be better to paint the floor with the PU paint, which is slicker than owl poop, and then use some of those stick on traction strips after it dries, or would it be better to lightly sprinkle sand into the fresh paint?
#1858
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Oxford,
MI
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice job Pat. I painted my floor and while the paint was wet I lightly spinckled some fine play sand over the wet paint, worked great and clean-up is very easy after a muddy day at the field. I also found some "D" hooks at Amazon dirt cheap and screwed them through the wood to the inner beams for straping and bungy cording things in place, ceiling too.
http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Single-T...ywords=d+hooks
http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Single-T...ywords=d+hooks
#1860
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: LaGrange,
GA
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hadn't thought about cleanup.... I guess it'd be easier to mop without the adhesive strips on there as I know there will be some muddy days at the field. I like those D rings too. I had before, and will putting them back, some of the regular double track shelf brackets with pipe insulation around them along each side that I bungied my planes to. Something like pictured below. Some D-rings in strategic locations would be nice to tie stuff down to. Thanks for the help guys!
#1861
My Feedback: (5)
I hadn't thought about cleanup.... I guess it'd be easier to mop without the adhesive strips on there as I know there will be some muddy days at the field. I like those D rings too. I had before, and will putting them back, some of the regular double track shelf brackets with pipe insulation around them along each side that I bungied my planes to. Something like pictured below. Some D-rings in strategic locations would be nice to tie stuff down to. Thanks for the help guys!
I used the single bracket system and although it has worked well for a number of years as my planes got bigger and heavier, they put a strain on some of the horizontal brackets (slight bendage). You should do better with the double system. At first I just put pipe insulation on the horizontal, but found the bracket would cut into the insulation. My solution was to split a pvc pipe and glued that onto the horizontal with some silicon, then put the foam insulation on it. Much better and no damage to my models. One other thing, you will want to put a small sheet metal screw in your vertical, just above the horizontal bracket. No matter how snug it may be now, at some point your going to hit a bump and have that horizontal bounce out with a plane attached.
#1863
My Feedback: (3)
I used the single bracket system and although it has worked well for a number of years as my planes got bigger and heavier, they put a strain on some of the horizontal brackets (slight bendage). You should do better with the double system. At first I just put pipe insulation on the horizontal, but found the bracket would cut into the insulation. My solution was to split a pvc pipe and glued that onto the horizontal with some silicon, then put the foam insulation on it. Much better and no damage to my models. One other thing, you will want to put a small sheet metal screw in your vertical, just above the horizontal bracket. No matter how snug it may be now, at some point your going to hit a bump and have that horizontal bounce out with a plane attached.
IF you have the chance, get a trailer with TORSION axles, it makes a HUGE difference in the damaged delivered to your stuff. Guess how I know...
#1864
My Feedback: (20)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: LaGrange,
GA
Posts: 544
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll definitely add the screws in there, that's a good idea.
Also, I will be putting my car battery in the bottom of my cabinet that runs everything. I've seen where folks don't like enclosing those because of gas buildup.... is that a valid concern? Can I just drill some holes in the side of the cabinet to let the gases escape? I got the walls painted and all I have left to do is paint the counter top, the floor and strip and paint the drawers for the cabinet. In the attached picture, I figure the car battery will be mounted in the far right bottom of the cabinet.
Oh yeah, I also have to re-mount my light and electricals.
Also, I will be putting my car battery in the bottom of my cabinet that runs everything. I've seen where folks don't like enclosing those because of gas buildup.... is that a valid concern? Can I just drill some holes in the side of the cabinet to let the gases escape? I got the walls painted and all I have left to do is paint the counter top, the floor and strip and paint the drawers for the cabinet. In the attached picture, I figure the car battery will be mounted in the far right bottom of the cabinet.
Oh yeah, I also have to re-mount my light and electricals.
#1865
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looks good.......... I started my trailer but had to put on hold because I am moving and need the trailer to move all my stuff. Once I am settled I will be starting it again. I have all the lights, electrical, vents, and insulation. Most of the insulation is done but I want to go back and pull out all the trailer wiring and add some spray in foam in places. I will be adding work bench similar to yours along with upper cabinets for storage and racks for charging batteries.
Take lots of pictures for us.......
Keith
Take lots of pictures for us.......
Keith
#1866
My Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: New City, NY
Posts: 3,021
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll definitely add the screws in there, that's a good idea.
Also, I will be putting my car battery in the bottom of my cabinet that runs everything. I've seen where folks don't like enclosing those because of gas buildup.... is that a valid concern? Can I just drill some holes in the side of the cabinet to let the gases escape? I got the walls painted and all I have left to do is paint the counter top, the floor and strip and paint the drawers for the cabinet. In the attached picture, I figure the car battery will be mounted in the far right bottom of the cabinet.
Oh yeah, I also have to re-mount my light and electricals.
Also, I will be putting my car battery in the bottom of my cabinet that runs everything. I've seen where folks don't like enclosing those because of gas buildup.... is that a valid concern? Can I just drill some holes in the side of the cabinet to let the gases escape? I got the walls painted and all I have left to do is paint the counter top, the floor and strip and paint the drawers for the cabinet. In the attached picture, I figure the car battery will be mounted in the far right bottom of the cabinet.
Oh yeah, I also have to re-mount my light and electricals.
I have a small 6 x 10 with a deep cycle battery in the back. It's on the floor but not in a cabinet. I charge it in my garage. I have a 2014 Dodge Durango and the battery is under the passenger seat but there is a vent to the outside. How and when will you be charging it as I believe that is when it really gasses. I would think some holes like you mention would be fine.
#1868
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Flowery Branch, GA
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok... have a question to all that have these great trailers. What do you haul them with??? I have a 10x6 V Nose Trailer that I haul with my 2005 Chrysler Mini Van that has the 3.8 engine in it. This is just not doing the job even though, the trailer does not weight that much. When driving highway speeds, it runs about 2800 RPMs because it won't drop into the lower gear and that is only running about 65. I like the mini van because I can carry overflow in there, wings and such, plus if I don't need the trailer, I can fit a 1/3 scale BUSA Cub in there with no problems.
So do I need to give up the extra space in my tow vehicle to get more towing power???
I look forward to hearing what you have.
Mike
So do I need to give up the extra space in my tow vehicle to get more towing power???
I look forward to hearing what you have.
Mike
#1869
My Feedback: (3)
Ok... have a question to all that have these great trailers. What do you haul them with??? I have a 10x6 V Nose Trailer that I haul with my 2005 Chrysler Mini Van that has the 3.8 engine in it. This is just not doing the job even though, the trailer does not weight that much. When driving highway speeds, it runs about 2800 RPMs because it won't drop into the lower gear and that is only running about 65. I like the mini van because I can carry overflow in there, wings and such, plus if I don't need the trailer, I can fit a 1/3 scale BUSA Cub in there with no problems.
So do I need to give up the extra space in my tow vehicle to get more towing power???
I look forward to hearing what you have.
Mike
So do I need to give up the extra space in my tow vehicle to get more towing power???
I look forward to hearing what you have.
Mike
My trailers are no where near as sexy as everyone else's, but they get well used. In 1996, I carried 5 1/4 scale or larger birds in the 5X10 and am planning to have 6 or 7 to carry and fly regularly in the current trailer (6x12). If I can keep them out of the trees.
This thread has given me a few pointers of tricky things to do that improve my trailer, pointers on things that waste space (the most precious resource in a trailer), and coupled with practical knowledge picked up (usually the hard way) have enabled me to improve my trailers effectiveness. I am constantly on the look out for things to make the investment more robust for my purposes and to keep the wife happy. Right now I am planning when, where what to unload from it to take my daughter back to college.
#1871
My Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Bourbonnais , IL
Posts: 549
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Are you shifting out of overdrive? My 2012 Town & Country handles a 7 x 14 v-nose pretty well, it has a 3.5 v6 with 283 horse and a 6 speed transmission, but I do lock out the overdrive. It is much better than the 2006 Town & Country I had, more power better transmission. Both had a factory tow package. Still more power would be nice.
#1872
My Feedback: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: New City, NY
Posts: 3,021
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok... have a question to all that have these great trailers. What do you haul them with??? I have a 10x6 V Nose Trailer that I haul with my 2005 Chrysler Mini Van that has the 3.8 engine in it. This is just not doing the job even though, the trailer does not weight that much. When driving highway speeds, it runs about 2800 RPMs because it won't drop into the lower gear and that is only running about 65. I like the mini van because I can carry overflow in there, wings and such, plus if I don't need the trailer, I can fit a 1/3 scale BUSA Cub in there with no problems.
So do I need to give up the extra space in my tow vehicle to get more towing power???
I look forward to hearing what you have.
Mike
So do I need to give up the extra space in my tow vehicle to get more towing power???
I look forward to hearing what you have.
Mike
#1873
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Texarkana,
TX
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The question and answers have been about power and being able to run from 70 to 80. However don't forget about being able to stop. Electric brakes at those speeds or very good tow ride brakes are necessary also. A lot of rides will pull great, but can you stop quickly from 80? Hopefully I didn't miss a prior discussion on this earlier in this thread.
#1874
My Feedback: (53)
The question and answers have been about power and being able to run from 70 to 80. However don't forget about being able to stop. Electric brakes at those speeds or very good tow ride brakes are necessary also. A lot of rides will pull great, but can you stop quickly from 80? Hopefully I didn't miss a prior discussion on this earlier in this thread.
#1875
My Feedback: (3)
The question and answers have been about power and being able to run from 70 to 80. However don't forget about being able to stop. Electric brakes at those speeds or very good tow ride brakes are necessary also. A lot of rides will pull great, but can you stop quickly from 80? Hopefully I didn't miss a prior discussion on this earlier in this thread.
Somehow I am under the impression that all the torsion axles come with electric brakes, but I could be wrong. That being said I will also say he who does not buy a trailer with torsion axles has never seen the damage springed trailers do to models and stuff inside. My first trailer was springed and it was a challenge to insure my birds did not get damaged. When I negotiated to buy my trailer WITH torsion axles I remember the factory guy saying "Do you really carry anything so fragile that you need torsion axles, they add quite a bit of expense". I found out that it had brakes when I picked it up in Georgia and I added a brake controller before the high speeds which are in west Texas.
Be safe and treat your models with care.