Photos Of Trailer Interior Layout, Please Post Yours Too!!
#603
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RE: Lock
Thanks Jim for the compliments. I learned most of the methods I used by reading this post and wanted to share a few pics in case it helps another.
I finished up some more details today with the addition of a fuse cradle that is adjustable via the EZ track system. It is actually pretty simple to make a pair of the cradles for any other plane that might have a unique shape that needs it's own carrier. I used the leftover MDF from the counter top and didn't even need to paint it. THe tail of the .60 size planes barely comes halfway into the trailer so I could easy place my Funtana 90 under the wing rack and another plane next to it and have plenty of room. I built the cradles big so I''ll be forced to buy bigger planes.... I have a PAcific Aeromodels 82" Gee Bee Y model waiting to be built and I know from my last one it will need acustom cradle.
I also installed the MALE outdoor recepticle so I can plug a standard extenstion cord in and charge the system. THe area below the stereo is fitted for my flight box and tool box.
I finished up a fuel caddy from 1x6 lumber left over that holds 4 jugs of fuel in a line against either outside wall. It will have handles on each end and hook eyes so it can be latched up against the EZ track so it won't move during long transports. I plan to insulate the roof and install 12V DC fan in the vent with a MAxx Air cover so in the summer I can run a timer and keep the inside cool.
Feel free to contact me with any questions as I would be glad to help.
Larry
PS- THe graphics came from www.wildmanngraphics.com Chris is a great guy to deal with and his stuff has been on mt truck window for over a year with no fading or peeling.
I finished up some more details today with the addition of a fuse cradle that is adjustable via the EZ track system. It is actually pretty simple to make a pair of the cradles for any other plane that might have a unique shape that needs it's own carrier. I used the leftover MDF from the counter top and didn't even need to paint it. THe tail of the .60 size planes barely comes halfway into the trailer so I could easy place my Funtana 90 under the wing rack and another plane next to it and have plenty of room. I built the cradles big so I''ll be forced to buy bigger planes.... I have a PAcific Aeromodels 82" Gee Bee Y model waiting to be built and I know from my last one it will need acustom cradle.
I also installed the MALE outdoor recepticle so I can plug a standard extenstion cord in and charge the system. THe area below the stereo is fitted for my flight box and tool box.
I finished up a fuel caddy from 1x6 lumber left over that holds 4 jugs of fuel in a line against either outside wall. It will have handles on each end and hook eyes so it can be latched up against the EZ track so it won't move during long transports. I plan to insulate the roof and install 12V DC fan in the vent with a MAxx Air cover so in the summer I can run a timer and keep the inside cool.
Feel free to contact me with any questions as I would be glad to help.
Larry
PS- THe graphics came from www.wildmanngraphics.com Chris is a great guy to deal with and his stuff has been on mt truck window for over a year with no fading or peeling.
#604
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RE: Lock
Like the notion of the docking connector (male on the outside of the trailer).
I've not got past the painting part of my trailer, but I'm still collecting 'stuff' to go in it.
Latest goodie is a "Rig Runner" from West Mountain Radio. Designed for powering ham radio stuff on 12VDC. Pretty spiffy item.
See http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm
I've not got past the painting part of my trailer, but I'm still collecting 'stuff' to go in it.
Latest goodie is a "Rig Runner" from West Mountain Radio. Designed for powering ham radio stuff on 12VDC. Pretty spiffy item.
See http://www.westmountainradio.com/RIGrunner.htm
#606
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RE: Lock
The floor is simple self adhesive tile from Home Depot. Just clean the floor and stick it down. It helps run run a small heater after it's applied to help it stick in cold weather.
#608
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RE: Lock
Congrats on getting a trailer..too bad all that furniture and junk are in there...looks like you'll only fit one 43% plane in there. You can tear that stuff out and really have some room!
Don't try watching that TV while you're pre-flighting...you'll be watching a re-run of Oprah and forget to install the wingbolts or something. YIKES!
Here's the same view of my plane's "ride."
Don't try watching that TV while you're pre-flighting...you'll be watching a re-run of Oprah and forget to install the wingbolts or something. YIKES!
Here's the same view of my plane's "ride."
#611
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RE: Lock
The TH is to big for short little hops on the weekend. But for weekend fly-ins I'm all over it. I'll take some pictures with it loaded with a 4 days trip worth of camping and flying stuff... Heres what I plan on getting into the back end.
27% Monoucoupe (floatplane)
25% Extra 260 (wheels)
60 size Ultra Stick (floatplane)
H-9 P-51 (wheels)
40 size OMP Edge profile (wheels)
and a few foamys
my tool wagon
Best of all...the Ice chest
EZ-Up, chairs, table
damm thats enough already
Hell I'm tired already
27% Monoucoupe (floatplane)
25% Extra 260 (wheels)
60 size Ultra Stick (floatplane)
H-9 P-51 (wheels)
40 size OMP Edge profile (wheels)
and a few foamys
my tool wagon
Best of all...the Ice chest
EZ-Up, chairs, table
damm thats enough already
Hell I'm tired already
#612
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RE: Lock
Kolarshooter - what size is your trailer. Looks like the Haulmark that I'm going to pick up tomorrow - - with side door etc... It has taken over 8 weeks but its finally ready to pickup. Now the work starts...
ORIGINAL: kolarshooter
Congrats on getting a trailer..too bad all that furniture and junk are in there...looks like you'll only fit one 43% plane in there. You can tear that stuff out and really have some room!
Don't try watching that TV while you're pre-flighting...you'll be watching a re-run of Oprah and forget to install the wingbolts or something. YIKES!
Here's the same view of my plane's "ride."
Congrats on getting a trailer..too bad all that furniture and junk are in there...looks like you'll only fit one 43% plane in there. You can tear that stuff out and really have some room!
Don't try watching that TV while you're pre-flighting...you'll be watching a re-run of Oprah and forget to install the wingbolts or something. YIKES!
Here's the same view of my plane's "ride."
#613
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RE: Lock
ORIGINAL: rfaster
Kolarshooter - what size is your trailer. Looks like the Haulmark that I'm going to pick up tomorrow - - with side door etc... It has taken over 8 weeks but its finally ready to pickup. Now the work starts...
Kolarshooter - what size is your trailer. Looks like the Haulmark that I'm going to pick up tomorrow - - with side door etc... It has taken over 8 weeks but its finally ready to pickup. Now the work starts...
Your Haulmark is probably a full 6 feet high inside. Mine is just shy of that...maybe 5 1/2 feet.
If you want any more info or pics, just ask!
Robert.
#614
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RE: Lock
Anyone that has mounted a tounge box to the front of their trailer, what did you use to mount it? A few self tapping screws thru the bottom of it into the frame with some fender washers or?
#615
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RE: Lock
hello
i used some aluininm [how ever its spelled ] square tubes and mounted them on the inside of the outer toung tubes for the box to rest on so the box sits about 1. 5 inches back from the outside edge, wich in turn moved the box back away from the toung jack and out of harms way if it ever jack knifed god forbid! i drilled and used 10x24 bolts & nylock nuts for mounting the box down and drilled & taped the inner toung tubes for the square tubing .my set up is the first one on page 23 in this forum. hope i helped see ys stan
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...23/key_/tm.htm
i used some aluininm [how ever its spelled ] square tubes and mounted them on the inside of the outer toung tubes for the box to rest on so the box sits about 1. 5 inches back from the outside edge, wich in turn moved the box back away from the toung jack and out of harms way if it ever jack knifed god forbid! i drilled and used 10x24 bolts & nylock nuts for mounting the box down and drilled & taped the inner toung tubes for the square tubing .my set up is the first one on page 23 in this forum. hope i helped see ys stan
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...23/key_/tm.htm
#616
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RE: Lock
Well my Haulmark 5X10-Vnose was finally ready for pickup last weekend (9 weeks....)
I must say that I think I underestimated how much work it will be to take the trailer to the airfield. I purchased the trailer so I could haul my 42% and thought it would be easy to load the plane - and hook up to my SUV and haul it to the field. My problems begain when I realized that I would not be able to "manhandle" the trailer up my driveway (Just too heavy). My plan was to strore it in my Garage and simply drop the trailer at the bottom of my driveway and push it up and into the garage.
** Also is there a better way to line up your vehicle with the trailer - currently I have my wife directing me in.. but I hate to think that I need 2 people every time I want to take my trailer to the field.
So far this is how I'm attempting to get the trailer up my driveway-
1 - I back the trailer as close to my driveway as I can get - then detach the trailer and manhandle it to the right side of my driveway (line it up etc...) - then have to hitch the trailer back to my SUV and try to drive it straight up my driveway.
This is my first time towing a trailer - and I'm hoping it will get easier with time- any suggestions would be appreciated -
I was also looking to see if they made a powered device that will attach to the 3rd wheel and allow me to move the trailer - like a trailer buddy?
Would be interested to hear how other folks back their trailer's into their driveway's - best practices etc...
I must say that I think I underestimated how much work it will be to take the trailer to the airfield. I purchased the trailer so I could haul my 42% and thought it would be easy to load the plane - and hook up to my SUV and haul it to the field. My problems begain when I realized that I would not be able to "manhandle" the trailer up my driveway (Just too heavy). My plan was to strore it in my Garage and simply drop the trailer at the bottom of my driveway and push it up and into the garage.
** Also is there a better way to line up your vehicle with the trailer - currently I have my wife directing me in.. but I hate to think that I need 2 people every time I want to take my trailer to the field.
So far this is how I'm attempting to get the trailer up my driveway-
1 - I back the trailer as close to my driveway as I can get - then detach the trailer and manhandle it to the right side of my driveway (line it up etc...) - then have to hitch the trailer back to my SUV and try to drive it straight up my driveway.
This is my first time towing a trailer - and I'm hoping it will get easier with time- any suggestions would be appreciated -
I was also looking to see if they made a powered device that will attach to the 3rd wheel and allow me to move the trailer - like a trailer buddy?
Would be interested to hear how other folks back their trailer's into their driveway's - best practices etc...
#617
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RE: Lock
Your trailer is just like your plane. Harder at first and it gets
easier with practice. Go to a big empty parking lot with it
and practice. Take some cones or whatever to mark lines
or barriers and practice placing the trailer precisely.
As for hooking it up by your self, it is the same thing. Practice
makes it easier. But you
will have to jump in and out of the car a couple of times as you
back up the SUV to the tongue. It does help to have some
visible center mark on the trailer (paint, tape, etc...) as you
back up to it.
Oh - manhandling the trailer sounds like a bad idea no matter
what your age. One day it will get away from you and you
could be seriously hurt. Practice moving it with the SUV and
unless you have a real problem driveway, I am sure you
will be able to do it.
Good Luck
easier with practice. Go to a big empty parking lot with it
and practice. Take some cones or whatever to mark lines
or barriers and practice placing the trailer precisely.
As for hooking it up by your self, it is the same thing. Practice
makes it easier. But you
will have to jump in and out of the car a couple of times as you
back up the SUV to the tongue. It does help to have some
visible center mark on the trailer (paint, tape, etc...) as you
back up to it.
Oh - manhandling the trailer sounds like a bad idea no matter
what your age. One day it will get away from you and you
could be seriously hurt. Practice moving it with the SUV and
unless you have a real problem driveway, I am sure you
will be able to do it.
Good Luck
#618
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RE: Lock
You will not find better advice. And just to reenforce what Bhanley said, NEVER mandhandle a trailer uphill (or downhill for that matter), the local ER will reserve a bed for you.
ORIGINAL: bhanley
Your trailer is just like your plane. Harder at first and it gets
easier with practice. Go to a big empty parking lot with it
and practice. Take some cones or whatever to mark lines
or barriers and practice placing the trailer precisely.
As for hooking it up by your self, it is the same thing. Practice
makes it easier. But you
will have to jump in and out of the car a couple of times as you
back up the SUV to the tongue. It does help to have some
visible center mark on the trailer (paint, tape, etc...) as you
back up to it.
Oh - manhandling the trailer sounds like a bad idea no matter
what your age. One day it will get away from you and you
could be seriously hurt. Practice moving it with the SUV and
unless you have a real problem driveway, I am sure you
will be able to do it.
Good Luck
Your trailer is just like your plane. Harder at first and it gets
easier with practice. Go to a big empty parking lot with it
and practice. Take some cones or whatever to mark lines
or barriers and practice placing the trailer precisely.
As for hooking it up by your self, it is the same thing. Practice
makes it easier. But you
will have to jump in and out of the car a couple of times as you
back up the SUV to the tongue. It does help to have some
visible center mark on the trailer (paint, tape, etc...) as you
back up to it.
Oh - manhandling the trailer sounds like a bad idea no matter
what your age. One day it will get away from you and you
could be seriously hurt. Practice moving it with the SUV and
unless you have a real problem driveway, I am sure you
will be able to do it.
Good Luck
#619
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RE: Lock
I have a trailer dolly that I got from Harbor Freight. It is a lot easier to move my trailer around with the dolly rather than trying to pick up the tongue. I use it when I don't get the trailer in just right .
Here is a link to the dolly: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45238
Maybe this will help with what you are trying.
Here is a link to the dolly: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45238
Maybe this will help with what you are trying.
#620
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RE: Lock
I struggled with the same problems after I purchased my 6x10......only I need to store my trailer behind my garage which means pushing/pullling it through about 40ft of grass.
I bought one of those dollys in the post above and it worked great in the driveway.....I could manuver the trailer anywhere I wanted almost effortlessly.....but pulling it through the grass was another problem all together.
My solution was to find a used 1/2hp electric motor with a 60:1 gearbox. I then had a chain sprocket welded to the hub of one wheel. The 2nd wheel is on an axle that is attached to the wheel/sprocket so both wheels are driven.
A little bit of wiring on the motor gave me forward/reverse and an on/off push-button so I can precisely park the trailer when I done with it.
I found the dolly at a local Menards for $29.....the motor/gearbox I purchased used for $100.....some misc parts/chain/sprockets.....another $50. This is much much cheaper than purchasing one of the ready-made electric dollys meant for much bigger trailers (they retail for $1000 +).
I bought one of those dollys in the post above and it worked great in the driveway.....I could manuver the trailer anywhere I wanted almost effortlessly.....but pulling it through the grass was another problem all together.
My solution was to find a used 1/2hp electric motor with a 60:1 gearbox. I then had a chain sprocket welded to the hub of one wheel. The 2nd wheel is on an axle that is attached to the wheel/sprocket so both wheels are driven.
A little bit of wiring on the motor gave me forward/reverse and an on/off push-button so I can precisely park the trailer when I done with it.
I found the dolly at a local Menards for $29.....the motor/gearbox I purchased used for $100.....some misc parts/chain/sprockets.....another $50. This is much much cheaper than purchasing one of the ready-made electric dollys meant for much bigger trailers (they retail for $1000 +).
#621
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RE: Lock
You stole my idea!!, LOL I was thinking about doing the same thing but I was going to use the speed control and motor out of an old electric lawnmower I have around, Im not sure if the motor will be strong enough now that I see the size of the one you used.
Anyway here is my trailer almost complete. I bought it used but nothing was really done to it on the inside, It is alot more work than I ever expected.
I have 12 volt power in the back for charging and to run the lights inside, a 2000 watt power inverter in case I dont want to start the gen up and I have a Honda 1000 watt generator to run the refrigerator
Anyway here is my trailer almost complete. I bought it used but nothing was really done to it on the inside, It is alot more work than I ever expected.
I have 12 volt power in the back for charging and to run the lights inside, a 2000 watt power inverter in case I dont want to start the gen up and I have a Honda 1000 watt generator to run the refrigerator
#622
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RE: Lock
Was thinking about the same thing - I found this web-site (http://www.powermoverinc.net/) and they appear to sell the top versions but at $1K I think I will practice my driving skills a bit more before I invest in one of these + then I'd have another thing to store.
Iflyit - What size is your trailer? and What are the "silver" cups you have your wheels in? I just finished painting my new trailer but now need to come up with a way to secure my 40% - I was hoping to add a second level so I can put my 35% on top and my 40% on the bottom but I'm not sure I'll have enough room since my 40%'s tail is so high and my trailer was custom made to fit into my garage.
Also how did you mount your second level - is that just plywood?
*Pic's - Haulmark 5X10Vnose-
Iflyit - What size is your trailer? and What are the "silver" cups you have your wheels in? I just finished painting my new trailer but now need to come up with a way to secure my 40% - I was hoping to add a second level so I can put my 35% on top and my 40% on the bottom but I'm not sure I'll have enough room since my 40%'s tail is so high and my trailer was custom made to fit into my garage.
Also how did you mount your second level - is that just plywood?
*Pic's - Haulmark 5X10Vnose-
#623
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RE: Lock
Mine is a 6x12 Haulmark. The silver cups are cat food bowls I got at the local dollar store. They even have rubber on the bottom of them to help keep from sliding and are made of metal all for $1. The only problem is they are too deep for planes with wheelpants so I need to add something to the inside of them, I thought about pouring some epoxy in to do that.
The secod level has 2x4's mounted on each side into the frame, and then a brace across the front, middle and back and the sheets just sit on top with a couple screws to keep them from moving. I can remove them in about 10 minutes in case I want to use the trailer for say a motorcycle or a new big screen TV
The secod level has 2x4's mounted on each side into the frame, and then a brace across the front, middle and back and the sheets just sit on top with a couple screws to keep them from moving. I can remove them in about 10 minutes in case I want to use the trailer for say a motorcycle or a new big screen TV