Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

BykrDan,
Another great idea!
The fishing hooks and line did the trick!
The decals are available from Adrian Page.

BykrDan

You know, I hadn't even thought of that... For me, though, I couldn't have used them anyway because I rescaled the plans.

Think long and hard before you ever do that!

Adrian Page

I can supply the decals in custom sizes.

Adrian

jacs

Hi Adrian

Started think on when I shall order the plastic set from you. I think that I need the decal's also for your RCM #1255 the progress is kinda off slow but I'm getting there. There is no good flying weather here in Sweden for the moment.

I made a mistake building the fuselage but it's not critical (planking is from former 1 instead of 2) now the LHS are in bankrupt and I have to start ordering balsa from up north here (p/p around $10).

What do you think about cover the hole plane with yellow oracover (or equivalent) and then airbrush (first time) the black paint. Anybody have an idea?

Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

I covered the fuselage with Super Coverite.
Can someone tell me how to hide a seam?

Adrian Page

I have covered them in plastic film and then painted the trim colors on. The only problem I had was the paint cracked over open areas about a year later. I used Aerospan film from Balsa USA and 21st century spray from Coverite. (The Aerospan is Solar Film from England)

Maybe someone knows of a paint that is flexible enough and will stick to the plastic?

I would fill the seams in the super coverite cloth with polyester spot putty made for automobile body work. Laquer based spot putty will shrink a tiny bit and may show through the paint over time. I filled the weave of the cloth with dope and talc in the past but I used auto body primer on my latest project. It's too new to know if it will work out over the long haul yet. The most likely problem would be cracking over the open areas of the structure.

Adrian

Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

What I was looking for was a method that was faster than the one I'm using.
Anyway I used a latex spackling as a seam cover and I am using rustoleum "Painters Touch" primer. I don't know what the base is but I know it's not alkyd. It seems to be a water base product but I'm not sure. Time to dry is at least 2-3 days before I can proceed. It's a slow method but gives preferred results.
All the flying surfaces are covered in "Black Baron" film and I found a Krylon paint that matches the covering very well.

jacs

Sorry for this but on Plan #1255 sheet 1 of 3 lower right corner is a Strut mount and it shall be glued to stringers but the only place that I can see on the drawings is on the lower left side near the rudder. Whats the purpose for it there.

Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

Here's a side view to help in strut placement.

jacs

Thank you for the piture but it didn't help me after zooming up the picture was so griny that it was no use. Is it for wires to hold the stab (mount fish eye hooks) or what ?

Wowbagger

Anyone got an e-mail address for Adrian Page?

I want to order the f/g pants and cowl.

Ta.

jacs

Go to his homepage at http://www.adrianpage.com and you will see.

Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

Jacs,
Here's 2 more pictures.
This is a stab brace made with tubing.

jacs

Thank you now I see it. Still need to find the information on the tubing on the drawing.

Wowbagger

Thanks Jaks

jacs

Found it, it shall be a retangular spruce with an Z bend and thin aluminium.

gbzflyer

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Group,
I need some advise before I take the next step in building my GeeBee Z. I've finished the fuse and have built the fillets for the wing. I've cut out the ABS parts for the front of the fillets, but have not glued them on yet. I'm going to be covering the plane with Cub Yellow Solartex fabric and then painting the black trim. Would it be best to glue the ABS parts on and apply the cover over them, if that's possible, or apply the covering to the fuse first and then glue the ABS parts on and paint? Your feedback is appreciated.
Mike

Zpat

My Feedback: (2)

I glued the parts to the fuse then covered down to the fillit. I then started primering just over the edge of the covering to conceal the covering seam and to create a panel line for the fillit. So far it's working out well but my primer is very slow drying and progress is slow.

jacs

Problem guys.

The bracket behind the front gear plate is according to drawing 3/4 but is that thick because it's not the best fit, either two small brackets that is glued on top and bottom spar.

gbzflyer

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Jacs,
I don't know if this is what you are having a problem with, but I built the front landing gear support by:
Glue a 1" x 4" x 1/8" plywood piece between 2 ribs. The bottom of the ribs are releived 1/8" to keep the plywood flush with the bottom of the ribs so the cap sheets would follow the contour of the rib.
Glue 1/4 x 1/4 basswood support pieces to the plywood piece, where it extends beyond the ribs, and to the ribs.
Glue a 1" x 5/8" x 3/4" hardwood block to the top of the plywood piece and against the rib where shown on the plan. The hardwood block has a hole drilled through it. This is where the end of the wire landing gear goes into. It's important to drill and position the hole correctly so the landing gear wire lines up where it should. The hardwood block should be big enough to help support the landing gear.
The rear landing gear support is built the same way, except the hardwood block has to be cut down to the same contour as the top of the rib where it narrows at the rear.
If this has nothing to do with your problem, please try to explain it again and I'll help you if I can.
Mike

jacs

Sheet 2 of 3 down to the right says maple gear block and just underneath it's says 3/4 tri brackets. Now when I look at it again I can see the full function with the forces coming from the gear.

Thanks anyway.

jacs

Hi again

How are you mounting your engine because my OS .46 with muffler don't fit good at all unless I either take away much material on the fuselage or modify my muffler?

gbzflyer

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Jacs,
I'm going to put a Saito 72 four stroke engine in mine. I haven't fit the engine in the cowl yet, so I don't know if I'll have any problems. I've attached a picture of my plane as it is so far. I hope it shows up. This is the first time that I am posting a picture.
Mike

jacs

Nice pictures, An .72 engine in that isn't that a kind of over powered or you maybe don't building the same plane that I'm building.
I have just started with the other half of the wing and soon gluing them together.

gbzflyer

My Feedback: (2)

Jacs
I'm building the Adrian Page 46 size Gee Bee Z. I talked to Adrian before I bought the kit to find out if the Saito 72 would be OK to use on the plane. He replied that the plane was originally designed for the Saito 56 or OS 46FX. Since the Saito 72 has a similar weight to the OS 46FX, he felt that it would be OK to use.
Mike