TERMAGATOR

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Here some how to on useing Heat and Windex to apply graphics. The plane is a Morris Hobbies Sledge 540. I used Ultracoat white and black to do the base coat on the wing. The red on the fuse is monokote.
pic 1 &2 show the top & bottom of the wing
pic 3 is the graphic that will be used

the graphic was saved off a web page and turned into a negitive so as to save my printer from running outta ink, the top of the wing will also have some red monokote flame ontop

TERMAGATOR

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In pic 1 I use some of the ultracoat backing to free-hand the flame on. I also need to keep in mind that I want to have the graphic out on the wing tip, so with the graphic on paper laying ontop of the wing I measure out to the graphic =15.5", this keeps the two graphics from over-laping

pic 2 shows the free handed graphic, this was cut out and then traced over the top of monokote with a felt-tip pin

pic 3 the cut out monokote laying on the wing

TERMAGATOR

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pic 1 shows the windex being applied(its actually Lysol cleaner, its a little more oily'r than windex but works just as well, its just what I had on hand at the time.

pic2 useing an old credit card to squeegy out the liquid

pic 3 shows the graphic, taped down on a piece of white monokote, the backing has also been removed from the covering just to make it where the knife#11 blade won't have as many layers to cut thru

TERMAGATOR

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pic1 cutting out the graphic

pic2 the graphic laying on the wing, The letters that say ''THE PROFILE BROTHERHOOD" were not cut out yet because the graphic that was printed on the paper had alot od disstortion, so I just sized other letters in a simular font and cut them out seperate. the letters took the longest to cut out maybe about 70 min

pic 3 showing the graphics with the lettering

this graphic was ironed on, it was way to flimsy to try to use windex plus too many edges for the credit card to get caught on

basmntdweller

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Hey Gator,
I tried this method a couple weeks ago on my Burrito. Most of the areas went great but just behind where the sheeting stops there was still noticable covering sag between ribs. My graphic was on both sides of one rib. I could get one side to lay down or the other but not both. I tried to carefully heat the wrinkling area to try to shrink it down so it would lay down but it really made it worse. What is the trick to correct this? I'm sure you've ran into this before after seeing many of your pieces of art.
Thanks,,,basmntdweller

TERMAGATOR

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pic 1, 2 &3 I used some red transparent ultracoat to give the flame a little hi-lite, this pic show the variations in red just laying the trans red ontop of the opague color. I lay a good size peice of trans red down and trace the outline of the flame on it, you have to be careful so the red transparent doesn't move, but even if it does, its still ok, it doesnt have to follow the outline of the opague covering, just be close to it

I almost forgot, this small pieces of trans red where stuck in place with windex, then I came back the next day and used heat at a low temp setting so as not to blister the opague covering. The oapgue red was also layed down the same night, so trying to iron down the trans red would have really been bad new on the windex

TERMAGATOR

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Sometimews if the graphis is on both sides of the rib, and you get a wrinkle, I try to squeegy the wrinkle to where its ontop of a cap strip, then i take my knife and I filet that wrinkle and try to let the wrinkle overlap onto its self, I had to do this alot on the flag scheme around all the stars....hope this helps, I was pretty lucky on this sledge coverjob, didnt have any wrinkle with the flame layeing over hatch opeings and open wing bays

TERMAGATOR

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this graphic was done the same way as the graphic on the left wing. you can see that the lettering is almost unreadable, so this is another case where I just sized aanother simular font and cut it out seperate, I just aminly needed the red and white diamonds cut out of this graphic

TERMAGATOR

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heres a pic of the top and the bottom of the wing nearly finished

TERMAGATOR

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heres how I did the PRO BRO on the bottom, this is all done with monokote, I have used these letters on like 3 different planes so I just put down a peice of red covering and trace around them

the 2nd pic show how I made a shadow with some black ultracoat, when useing black for lettering I like to use the ultracoat because you can draw on the back of it and see your lines, you just gotta remember when you drawing letters on the back side of ultracoat, you have to remember to do them backwards so when you turn the covering over the latters will be right
these shadows where stuck on with heat a few days after the monokote letters were stuck down with windex

pic 3 shows the finished bottom of the wing

I havent mention this yet, one of the last things I do is come back where ever i used the windex and seal the edges down with Trim solvent or Acetone.

hope this is helpful to folks.....Gator

FHHuber

My problem isn't applying the graphics... its cutting the things out.

Balsa Master

wish i had those skills []

TERMAGATOR

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what you talk'n bout balsamaster...looks like you got'em...nice job...g

TERMAGATOR

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try tapeing it down good so it cant move, I taped the peice of coveing that I was working on odwn, then taped the graphis down on top of it. use sharp blades especially when doing that intrikit(sic) stuff...G

tailskid

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TERMAGATOR, you have TOOOOOO MUCH time on your hands [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Jerry

PS You guys should see some of his 'other' jobs - move over Faye, here comes the Termagator!!!!

TERMAGATOR

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this job went pretty fast, I started on 1/16/04 finished today....G

777M8

Man Gator that is one GOOD LOOKIN BIRD I really like the black shadows on the lettering.. I will try some of this on my Sledge...

BBill

Balsa Master

... youd say that till you got close to it and i modled it off yours, i have no creativity whatso ever

TERMAGATOR

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you say that about all of the balsamaster includeing mine

Balsa Master

i have an adversion to useing sanding rails (mainly cuz im too lazy t obuy one) so i always have dips in the wood and i dont like my heat gun so i use only the iron and it digs int othe wood. oh well. it will fly, thts all that really matters. im thinking my planes will look better if i start using fiberglass nad leave the monokote the ppl who are good wiht it, wince i can paint well

PaulSwany

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Awesome thread Gator.... Thanks for the "How Too" on this stuff... Really helps when you break it down like that.... I'm gonna try that Profile Brother Hood logo on my next bird....

STEVE LENZ

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Nice Gator You are the man. You raise covering to a hole new level I want to thank you for letting us see how you do it. The next time I get a great idea I may be able to use it instead of saying thats to hard. I may give it a try it just takes time and a nice sharp blade. Keep up the good work. (#429) and proud of it.

Eagle Keeper

Gator,
Most people with your ability like to keep it to themselves or sell it for a price. Thanks for freely sharing your ideas with us. On the flag thread you mentioned after applying the design with windex you let the covering sit overnight, then you seal the edges with a Q-tip and trim solvent. Do you just apply the solvent around the edges or do you peel it up and apply it under the lip? Also do you cut your graphics dry? Have you tried to remove the backing on the covering and apply it to glass with windex before you cut it? If you've tried this does it affect the covering sticking to the base covering when you apply it to the model? Thanks again and there's a reason your threads are so popular, you should look into putting your ideas in print.

O2man

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Can't just lurk any mor! This thread is one of the most inspiring I have found. I am in awe of not just the graphics, but the finish that seems to be under the base coat. Awesome work!

Thanks for sharing technique and your time.

TERMAGATOR

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thanks for the kind words everyone.

Eagle keeper

I dont raise any of the edges I just stick the wet 1-tip along the seem and hope if there are any small areas that might be raised up, the trim solvent wil work its way in and with the pressure apply'd from the q-tip seal it down. I have heard of people useing glass in the way you speak of. I have never used the glass, but I have used the back of some ultracoat covering to try to join to pieces of covering together with about 1/4" over-lap and have had some sucess with this...G