Control horn installations..
#1
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Control horn installations..
Installing control horns requiring 3 to 4 screws and a backing plate of some sort can be a bit of a task. Getting all the holes to line and getting the screws started can be a problem. My solution to this is to grind a point on the end of each screw. The screws seem to find the hole in the backing plate much easier this way. Give it a try!
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CONTROL HORN INSTALL
I tried the grind thing and maybe because I'm a poor builder but I have a terriable time lineing up those holes. the one I'm on now you have to drill first (not treaded screws) and guess what, I missed again! (1/16" to 1/32" off!) Anay more ideas before I do the other half of the wing, tonight? - Please
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Re: CONTROL HORN INSTALL
Originally posted by Goldwing
I tried the grind thing and maybe because I'm a poor builder but I have a terriable time lineing up those holes. the one I'm on now you have to drill first (not treaded screws) and guess what, I missed again! (1/16" to 1/32" off!) Anay more ideas before I do the other half of the wing, tonight? - Please
I tried the grind thing and maybe because I'm a poor builder but I have a terriable time lineing up those holes. the one I'm on now you have to drill first (not treaded screws) and guess what, I missed again! (1/16" to 1/32" off!) Anay more ideas before I do the other half of the wing, tonight? - Please
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Control horn installations..
I Had this problem all the time too. Then I bought a cheap bench sized drill press. Perfect every time. Don't know how I got along with out it! I think I use it more than I use CA
Dale
Dale
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Why do you use these horrible horns at all?
Guys!
These nylon horns are horrible--heavy (several grams with the screws) and butt ugly!
I'm cuting my horns (better to say, my plane's horns) from old computer boards (where else can one get thin fiberglass?) and glue them to the structure. Yes, it takes time to dremel them out and to drill the holes, but the result is worth the efforts.
Just my .02 worth,
Boris
These nylon horns are horrible--heavy (several grams with the screws) and butt ugly!
I'm cuting my horns (better to say, my plane's horns) from old computer boards (where else can one get thin fiberglass?) and glue them to the structure. Yes, it takes time to dremel them out and to drill the holes, but the result is worth the efforts.
Just my .02 worth,
Boris
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That's how I do it
I find a place on the board, which is free of holes. The best boards are the simpliest ones: old network cards, sound cards, etc. Motherboards are usually multi-layered (there are layers of copper foil inside the fiberglass), which is not what we are looking for.
Using dremel and drill, cut the horm (central part in the picture below) and make a bunch of holes in it. The row of holes at the bottom is for lightness sake as well as for epoxy to fill. I usually taper the lower part of the horn, so that the end fartherst from the pivot (with the smallest hole) is the thinnest.
The horn is glued between two ribs (dark parts in the picture).
I got this idea from Mr. Graham Woods site:
http://www.favonius.com/soaring/bagging/tail_end.htm
Hope this may be useful.
Boris
Using dremel and drill, cut the horm (central part in the picture below) and make a bunch of holes in it. The row of holes at the bottom is for lightness sake as well as for epoxy to fill. I usually taper the lower part of the horn, so that the end fartherst from the pivot (with the smallest hole) is the thinnest.
The horn is glued between two ribs (dark parts in the picture).
I got this idea from Mr. Graham Woods site:
http://www.favonius.com/soaring/bagging/tail_end.htm
Hope this may be useful.
Boris
#15
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Control horn installations..
Need some clever tips on this still...
Any other good ideas to make sure the drill goes through straight with a 2 screw standard control horn?
Drill press is no good when the surfaces are already glued and hinged on the plane.
Also when the horn is up against the fuse closely what type of long drill bit or tool to use to make the hole since the bulky electric drill forces an angle since it can't get close to the plane?
I usually miss getting the holes straight enough to line up with the backplate 50% of the time lately...
Any other good ideas to make sure the drill goes through straight with a 2 screw standard control horn?
Drill press is no good when the surfaces are already glued and hinged on the plane.
Also when the horn is up against the fuse closely what type of long drill bit or tool to use to make the hole since the bulky electric drill forces an angle since it can't get close to the plane?
I usually miss getting the holes straight enough to line up with the backplate 50% of the time lately...
#17
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Control horn installations..
Originally posted by RCadmin
Need some clever tips on this still...
Any other good ideas to make sure the drill goes through straight with a 2 screw standard control horn?
Drill press is no good when the surfaces are already glued and hinged on the plane.
Also when the horn is up against the fuse closely what type of long drill bit or tool to use to make the hole since the bulky electric drill forces an angle since it can't get close to the plane?
I usually miss getting the holes straight enough to line up with the backplate 50% of the time lately...
Need some clever tips on this still...
Any other good ideas to make sure the drill goes through straight with a 2 screw standard control horn?
Drill press is no good when the surfaces are already glued and hinged on the plane.
Also when the horn is up against the fuse closely what type of long drill bit or tool to use to make the hole since the bulky electric drill forces an angle since it can't get close to the plane?
I usually miss getting the holes straight enough to line up with the backplate 50% of the time lately...
It's small enough to get into tight places and the small bit doesn't remove too much material to make the threads not hold but allows the bolt to go through when screwed in - it is a very tight fit between the bolt and the material you drilled through.
#18
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Control horn installations..
Jim,
I'm talking about the ones where you have to drill both holes perfectly straight so it goes into the plastic backplate. It would seem easier if the holes drilled weren't that tight. Problem is drilling straight enough so the screws coming out of the other side of the control surface line up with the holes in the backplate.
The pin vise would solve the tight spaces issue but lining it all up so the holes match is still the other big problem.
I'm talking about the ones where you have to drill both holes perfectly straight so it goes into the plastic backplate. It would seem easier if the holes drilled weren't that tight. Problem is drilling straight enough so the screws coming out of the other side of the control surface line up with the holes in the backplate.
The pin vise would solve the tight spaces issue but lining it all up so the holes match is still the other big problem.
#19
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Control horn installations..
Like Big Max said, use a piece of wire, I ground mine down like a screwdriver, it will go right through the balsa, and the long drill will help you see the angle you're drilling.
But the real trick is this...
When mounting the horn, get one screw started, but don't tighten it! Then start the other one while the backplate is still away from the surface. Now, if they don't line up, you have room to squeeze the screws together, or pry them apart, or whatever. Once BOTH screws are started, go ahead and tighten them down evenly.
But the real trick is this...
When mounting the horn, get one screw started, but don't tighten it! Then start the other one while the backplate is still away from the surface. Now, if they don't line up, you have room to squeeze the screws together, or pry them apart, or whatever. Once BOTH screws are started, go ahead and tighten them down evenly.
#20
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Control horn installations..
I tried the one to push-pull while the backplate was only started and away from the surface. This works sometimes if your close enough. I've had some surfaces that are very hard balsa and many times that won't work or a wire just won't make it's way through the hard balsa and a drill of some kind is needed. I can stick a t-pin through but it really doesn't work as a guide for any drill since the drill finds it's own way.
Lately I've been using the single hole control horn's by dubro which take the guesswork out of it all. One screw so you can't miss and much faster. Guess the Dubro's could be the ultimate easy solution.
Lately I've been using the single hole control horn's by dubro which take the guesswork out of it all. One screw so you can't miss and much faster. Guess the Dubro's could be the ultimate easy solution.
#24
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Control horn installations..
I use this 2 face tape (we used to call it officer tape) stick the control horn down in position..tape holds it very well. Drill pilot hole with pin vice and #80 drill and start your screws.
When finished remove the control horn and the back plate...remove the tape and reinstall. All lined up and neat.
When finished remove the control horn and the back plate...remove the tape and reinstall. All lined up and neat.
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Control horn installations..
I don't understand how any of the alignment methods so far (except the single hole method or the circuit board method) would help much with tapered control surfaces. The alignment of 4 holes thru a tapered section has always been one of my least favorite building tasks. Dzl