Painting with Latex
12-29-2005, 10:55 AM
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Painting with Latex
I am finishing up a paint booth in my basement now with the
intention of first painting a Ziroli AT-6 that is glassed and
ready for prime. Having read Roy's article on Latex painting and
communicating with a couple of others on the topic, the plan is to
use a Binks touch-up gun and a Binks 2100 gun with the appropriate
compressor and filters, etc. I understand the paint to use is Baer
from Home Depot mixed to your spec.
My questions are about primer and clear coating. First, should I
use Latex primer and what brand and type is best?
Second, the more I read about clear coating the more confused I
become. I do not want a clear that turns yellow in 6 months, the
engine will be gasoline powered, there should not be a compatibility
issue between the base coats and the clear, and I am somewhat
nervous about using two part paints that will kill you if you make a
mistake. Has anyone clear-coated a Latex base coat lately and care
to make a suggestion or two?
Finally, there have been write-ups about diluting house paints
(indoor or outdoor?) with windshield wiper fluid, distilled water
and other materials. Any suggestions on thinning and what to use?
Most of my painting experience has been with dopes, K & B and Hobby-
Poxy type paints--I have never used Latex products before. I plan
to use Chart-Pak tape after the first primer coat for panel lines
and a soldering iron tool for the rivets after the last primer
coat. There has to be a simpler way to do the rivets!
Thanks for any comments or suggestions, Tim
intention of first painting a Ziroli AT-6 that is glassed and
ready for prime. Having read Roy's article on Latex painting and
communicating with a couple of others on the topic, the plan is to
use a Binks touch-up gun and a Binks 2100 gun with the appropriate
compressor and filters, etc. I understand the paint to use is Baer
from Home Depot mixed to your spec.
My questions are about primer and clear coating. First, should I
use Latex primer and what brand and type is best?
Second, the more I read about clear coating the more confused I
become. I do not want a clear that turns yellow in 6 months, the
engine will be gasoline powered, there should not be a compatibility
issue between the base coats and the clear, and I am somewhat
nervous about using two part paints that will kill you if you make a
mistake. Has anyone clear-coated a Latex base coat lately and care
to make a suggestion or two?
Finally, there have been write-ups about diluting house paints
(indoor or outdoor?) with windshield wiper fluid, distilled water
and other materials. Any suggestions on thinning and what to use?
Most of my painting experience has been with dopes, K & B and Hobby-
Poxy type paints--I have never used Latex products before. I plan
to use Chart-Pak tape after the first primer coat for panel lines
and a soldering iron tool for the rivets after the last primer
coat. There has to be a simpler way to do the rivets!
Thanks for any comments or suggestions, Tim
12-29-2005, 03:04 PM
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12-29-2005, 07:37 PM
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RE: Painting with Latex
tim,
I used summer formula windshiled washer fluid to thin Krylon and Wal-mart latex paint. Be sure to use Floetrol or a similar paint conditioner to even out the finish. buy the smallest container you can find as it doesn't take much. I used Scotch blue masking tape.
I tried to attach a photo of my sopwith Camel finished in red, yellow and white as "dimps III", but couldn't figure out how to do it. If you're interested check my avatar on Wattflyer in the WWI thread or e-mail me directly and I'll send you a couple ov shots.
Walt
I used summer formula windshiled washer fluid to thin Krylon and Wal-mart latex paint. Be sure to use Floetrol or a similar paint conditioner to even out the finish. buy the smallest container you can find as it doesn't take much. I used Scotch blue masking tape.
I tried to attach a photo of my sopwith Camel finished in red, yellow and white as "dimps III", but couldn't figure out how to do it. If you're interested check my avatar on Wattflyer in the WWI thread or e-mail me directly and I'll send you a couple ov shots.
Walt
12-29-2005, 09:08 PM
#5
RE: Painting with Latex
ORIGINAL: Walt Thyng ". . . . I used Scotch blue masking tape. . . . "
Mike
12-30-2005, 05:11 PM
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RE: Painting with Latex
I've been using latex for some time and I 'm very
happy with the results I'm getting.
For thinning I use nothing but distilled water. I tried
the windshield washer fluid but found that I got better
paint adhesion with the DW.
I do clear coat with a latex poly semi gloss but I seem to
be getting away from that step. The reason being that I'm
currently flying a 4*120 that's 5 years old and it's been wiped
down so many times that I'm reasonably sure that any clear
coat is long gone.
As for spraying, I use a single action 10 buck Badger. It seems
to do just as good a job as any of my HVLP units.
The key to latex is to be sure the paint is dry,(no oder) before
masking or changing colors. After all the painting is done let it
set for at least 2 weeks before letting it see any gas or glow fuel.
Roby
happy with the results I'm getting.
For thinning I use nothing but distilled water. I tried
the windshield washer fluid but found that I got better
paint adhesion with the DW.
I do clear coat with a latex poly semi gloss but I seem to
be getting away from that step. The reason being that I'm
currently flying a 4*120 that's 5 years old and it's been wiped
down so many times that I'm reasonably sure that any clear
coat is long gone.
As for spraying, I use a single action 10 buck Badger. It seems
to do just as good a job as any of my HVLP units.
The key to latex is to be sure the paint is dry,(no oder) before
masking or changing colors. After all the painting is done let it
set for at least 2 weeks before letting it see any gas or glow fuel.
Roby
01-05-2006, 09:46 AM
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RE: Painting with Latex
Thanks for the help guys. I couldn't find the green tape in the normal places (Lowes, Home Depot, local hardware store) so I went to a auto paint store and bought tape, filters, can seals, Scotch Brite pads and other things I will need.
Roby's comments about letting the latex dry makes good sense, others have said it takes forever for water based paints to dry. I am painting in a warm and dry basement booth and the paint should dry fairly fast. Roby--distilled water it is.
The clear issue is still unclear to me. So far it appears that latex poly clears will yellow in 6 months or sooner and the only clears worth using are two part or catalyzed automotive paints. Anyone care to comment on this or shoot holes in this idea. If you have had good luck with poly clear on light background colors, I would sure like to hear about it. One fellow on RCU was selling his H9 white with red stripes Super Cub that he had cleared with poly and his pictures showed it had turned really yellow!
On the Baer(R) paint from Home Depot, do you use outdoor or indoor? Does it make a difference? I got the brochures to see if there was any clarity on weight, durability, ease of use, whatever... I still don't understand the difference. Which type do you use?
I still have to find and buy some Floetrol.
Tim
Roby's comments about letting the latex dry makes good sense, others have said it takes forever for water based paints to dry. I am painting in a warm and dry basement booth and the paint should dry fairly fast. Roby--distilled water it is.
The clear issue is still unclear to me. So far it appears that latex poly clears will yellow in 6 months or sooner and the only clears worth using are two part or catalyzed automotive paints. Anyone care to comment on this or shoot holes in this idea. If you have had good luck with poly clear on light background colors, I would sure like to hear about it. One fellow on RCU was selling his H9 white with red stripes Super Cub that he had cleared with poly and his pictures showed it had turned really yellow!
On the Baer(R) paint from Home Depot, do you use outdoor or indoor? Does it make a difference? I got the brochures to see if there was any clarity on weight, durability, ease of use, whatever... I still don't understand the difference. Which type do you use?
I still have to find and buy some Floetrol.
Tim
01-05-2006, 10:23 AM
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RE: Painting with Latex
I got my Floetrol at an Ace Hardware. I would go with outdoor latex becasue I believe it is more resistant to fading in sunlight. Krylon has a "Crystal Clear" that I've used to seal inkjet decals. Six months plus and no sign of yellowing. Don't know about the compatibility with latex, but I can't imagine it wouldn't work after adequate curing of the latex
01-06-2006, 08:26 AM
#13
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RE: Painting with Latex
Definitely use "exterior trim" latex.
The other night I looked at my ski's that are mounted on
my 4* . They are painted with latex to match the plane . They were
never clear coated and still look fine after several years.
The big key to latex.......make very sure it's completely dry.
(no trace of oder) .
Roby
The other night I looked at my ski's that are mounted on
my 4* . They are painted with latex to match the plane . They were
never clear coated and still look fine after several years.
The big key to latex.......make very sure it's completely dry.
(no trace of oder) .
Roby
01-20-2006, 02:25 PM
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RE: Painting with Latex
Hi,
My question-- Can you paint latex over Du Pont auto primer?I`ve got my cowel all primed and ready for paint and I`m tired of inhaling lacquer fumes-Thanks
My question-- Can you paint latex over Du Pont auto primer?I`ve got my cowel all primed and ready for paint and I`m tired of inhaling lacquer fumes-Thanks
01-20-2006, 11:58 PM
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RE: Painting with Latex
You can put latex over most anything if it is throughly cured. One simple test is when you can no longer smell the fumes from the under coat. I waited 1o days for the dope on my Camel to cure.
Walt
Walt
01-22-2006, 09:57 PM
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RE: Painting with Latex
I'm painting my first latex plane -- a Mosquito.
I found out that you can get 2 oz 'tester' sizes of Benjamin Moore Acrylic Latex. Cheap (about C$4), and perfect for small aircraft. FYI.
Does anyone know if Latex urethane is fuel proof enough? I know it does not yellow.
I found out that you can get 2 oz 'tester' sizes of Benjamin Moore Acrylic Latex. Cheap (about C$4), and perfect for small aircraft. FYI.
Does anyone know if Latex urethane is fuel proof enough? I know it does not yellow.
01-26-2006, 03:43 PM
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RE: Painting with Latex
snitch,
I am curious about which brand of urethane clear you "know" doesn't yellow. I need to clear a H-9 white Super Cub that had been Scotch guarded and was still black on the bottom of the bird--nothing that acetone and a few hours doesn't cure--yech. Many posts I have read complain about urethane clear turning yellow in 3-6 months, especially over white!
While I have not tested for nitro protection, some have on this forum. I read awhile back that some urethane clears are good to 15% nitro, if you don't pour the raw fuel on the paint.
Roby, thanks for the advise on the exterior vs interior; I just didn't know the difference.
BTW, I just finished painting a large electric jet (large when you say electric is a relative term) 30" WS foam model with Latex paint, 3 colors. Wow, easy to spray, easy to clean-up and it laid down pretty nicely. I can't wait to start painting my new Ziroli AT-6.
Tim
I am curious about which brand of urethane clear you "know" doesn't yellow. I need to clear a H-9 white Super Cub that had been Scotch guarded and was still black on the bottom of the bird--nothing that acetone and a few hours doesn't cure--yech. Many posts I have read complain about urethane clear turning yellow in 3-6 months, especially over white!
While I have not tested for nitro protection, some have on this forum. I read awhile back that some urethane clears are good to 15% nitro, if you don't pour the raw fuel on the paint.
Roby, thanks for the advise on the exterior vs interior; I just didn't know the difference.
BTW, I just finished painting a large electric jet (large when you say electric is a relative term) 30" WS foam model with Latex paint, 3 colors. Wow, easy to spray, easy to clean-up and it laid down pretty nicely. I can't wait to start painting my new Ziroli AT-6.
Tim
01-26-2006, 09:14 PM
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RE: Painting with Latex
3drc tim,
Good point about "know". I should say I have been told. It is Benjamin Moore Acrylic Latex Urethane. I bought it for a renovation job, on just that promise. It is not cheap (I recall about C$60/gallon).
I poured some raw methanol on a test patch, and let it soak. It softened, but after it evaporated it hardened again. So I don't know what to do.
I use 10% fuel; do you think it would be sufficient protection? I don't know anything about this technique, and I was thinking I might just spray butyrate dope for a clear coat instead.
Lou
Good point about "know". I should say I have been told. It is Benjamin Moore Acrylic Latex Urethane. I bought it for a renovation job, on just that promise. It is not cheap (I recall about C$60/gallon).
I poured some raw methanol on a test patch, and let it soak. It softened, but after it evaporated it hardened again. So I don't know what to do.
I use 10% fuel; do you think it would be sufficient protection? I don't know anything about this technique, and I was thinking I might just spray butyrate dope for a clear coat instead.
Lou
02-21-2006, 09:01 AM
#21
RE: Painting with Latex
Concerning using windshield wiper fluid as a diluent...I would guess that should be a no-no. These window cleaning fluids have a small amount of soap or detergent in them. Soap or detergent will do two things, reduce adhesion and bloom to the surface of the paint film.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
02-21-2006, 09:57 AM
#22
RE: Painting with Latex
ORIGINAL: 3drc tim
snitch,
I am curious about which brand of urethane clear you "know" doesn't yellow. I need to clear a H-9 white Super Cub that had been Scotch guarded and was still black on the bottom of the bird--nothing that acetone and a few hours doesn't cure--yech. Many posts I have read complain about urethane clear turning yellow in 3-6 months, especially over white!
While I have not tested for nitro protection, some have on this forum. I read awhile back that some urethane clears are good to 15% nitro, if you don't pour the raw fuel on the paint.
>My experience with Minwax Polycrylic clear has been that it does
>not yellow with age (the oil base does yellow), HOWEVER, the
>Minwax Polycrylic (waterbase poly ) is FUEL RESISTANT, not fuel
>proof.
>
>By fuel resistant I mean that if you let it sit for at least 7
>days before exposing it to fuel AND clean your planes at the end
>of the day you will be OK. If you let the residue sit on the plane
>for much over 5 hours the clear coat will start to soften, but will
>harden up after cleaning (give it a day or 2 to reharden).
>
>I use 15% nitro and have had no problems as long as I do as
>stated above.
>
>If you want FUEL PROOF, you need to use any of the following:
>Automotive 2 part clear coat
>Ultracoate clear
>Lustercoat clear
Roby, thanks for the advise on the exterior vs interior; I just didn't know the difference.
>Another thing you may not be aware of is that flat latex takes
>7 - 10 days to cure while semi-gloss and gloss latex take
>14 - 21 days to cure with gloss occasionally taking longer than
>21 days for curing.
BTW, I just finished painting a large electric jet (large when you say electric is a relative term) 30" WS foam model with Latex paint, 3 colors. Wow, easy to spray, easy to clean-up and it laid down pretty nicely. I can't wait to start painting my new Ziroli AT-6.
Tim
snitch,
I am curious about which brand of urethane clear you "know" doesn't yellow. I need to clear a H-9 white Super Cub that had been Scotch guarded and was still black on the bottom of the bird--nothing that acetone and a few hours doesn't cure--yech. Many posts I have read complain about urethane clear turning yellow in 3-6 months, especially over white!
While I have not tested for nitro protection, some have on this forum. I read awhile back that some urethane clears are good to 15% nitro, if you don't pour the raw fuel on the paint.
>My experience with Minwax Polycrylic clear has been that it does
>not yellow with age (the oil base does yellow), HOWEVER, the
>Minwax Polycrylic (waterbase poly ) is FUEL RESISTANT, not fuel
>proof.
>
>By fuel resistant I mean that if you let it sit for at least 7
>days before exposing it to fuel AND clean your planes at the end
>of the day you will be OK. If you let the residue sit on the plane
>for much over 5 hours the clear coat will start to soften, but will
>harden up after cleaning (give it a day or 2 to reharden).
>
>I use 15% nitro and have had no problems as long as I do as
>stated above.
>
>If you want FUEL PROOF, you need to use any of the following:
>Automotive 2 part clear coat
>Ultracoate clear
>Lustercoat clear
Roby, thanks for the advise on the exterior vs interior; I just didn't know the difference.
>Another thing you may not be aware of is that flat latex takes
>7 - 10 days to cure while semi-gloss and gloss latex take
>14 - 21 days to cure with gloss occasionally taking longer than
>21 days for curing.
BTW, I just finished painting a large electric jet (large when you say electric is a relative term) 30" WS foam model with Latex paint, 3 colors. Wow, easy to spray, easy to clean-up and it laid down pretty nicely. I can't wait to start painting my new Ziroli AT-6.
Tim
