I couldnt find a thread on this so i thought it would be a good topic. I dont no how many of you use thread lock on critical parts like engine mounts but i always have. A bottle of the stuff will go a long long way, but its expensive. Anyone heard r no of a jack leg method or any substance that servs this purpose well, but also something that you can loosen when the time comes. Heres a list of my methods iv used be for...... commercial thread lock, super glue/CA but can be tough to loosen), using pliers to ruffen up the threads on a bolt below the nut so it wont back off. Any other proven methods?

Locktite, the blue stuff is easy to remove, the red is permanant or VERY difficult to remove.

For the cost of a small bottle versus the cost of an engine coming loose in flight I would think the choice would be simple.

For the last 20 years I have used a normal contact adhesive as a thread lock on silencers etc. I just dip the bolt in Dunlop Thixofix - a rubbery type of DIY contact glue which seems to have a Petrol (gasoline ) solvent base and is a buttery non stringy goo. I previously used Evostick - solvent type- just a bit runny/stringy but otherwise the same. I think any rubbery type will do.
The bolt release easily when you want them to but never come loose on their own. Even old engines come apart years later with no problems and the threads can be cleaned with solvent if it wont peel off.
Obviously a proper threadlock might be better but they go off quickly and are useless next time you need them.
This is the cheap answer if you have a rubbery contact solvent type glue in your workshop. Obviously if you have to buy something buy the proper stuff- we have discount suppliers of threadlock at UK model engineering shows.

Ditto. Not sure I could justify being in this hobby if I couldn't spring for a small bottle of Loctite.

Tony. I have been using the old " Tube Type"glues for years.. Ambroid or Sigment works just as well for me.The bolts/screws will not back out on their own and easily removed. And a hell of a lor cheaper !! Try it.
Ugo

You can also thread a small piece of thin monofilament fishing line into the hole and then add the bolt. Works just like the nylon insert in a nylon locknut.

Nail polish works good too.

Nail polish for me

Bart

Huh. That fishing line trick never occured to me (well, there are lot of things that don't occur to me!). Have to give that try.

Just cross thread it. It won't come back off....LOL

I've used high-temp rtv (silicone) on the top end rebuild of my CR500, and used it on muffler bolts on model airplane engines. Also on the exhaust system of the bike. Never failed yet. And if it'll hold the head nuts/bolts of a CR500 top end and the exhaust together, well.... That's the true acid test.

Gotta give it to SamD, it shouldn't be about the cost if we're in this crazy hobby.

I just came across this thread looking for alternatives to keep from losing an hour and half on a round trip to the hardware store. The fishing line idea has to get my "Aha!" award, but none of that on hand since I don't fish. So rubber cement it is!

Thanks,
Tom

I have used Karo corn syrup with good results. When it dries, it has enough tack to hold any screws or bolts I have used on models. A little dab will do ya, It still allows easy removal.

Nail polish, RTV, liquid rubber, paint, Ca glue, Teflon thread tape, lock washer, second nut, safety wire, tabbed washer, the one with a tab you bend up against the bolt, and on a lot more times then I can think of, nothing at all. All depends on what I am doing. I have flown for years on a plane and never had anything holding the engine bolts, just tightened them and flew. Other I had them come loose with loctite and lnyloc nuts.



Dru.

Yes i think it's called golden syrup over here and don't forget white pvc liquid wood glue,other than that,nothing.