dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

I am having issue getting the the Hangar 9 bright yellow paint to match the bright yellow covering. I painted a cowl white and then shot it with the Ultracote bright yellow paint. The cowl came out darker than the covering and it simply does not match. After going to the effort to buy the paint, do all the prep and have it turn out this way is very frustrating. [:@]

I also got some midnight blue and while it is sensitive to the base coat color, I think it will match the same color covering nicely if I use a gray undercoat. But, has anybody actually had success with the Hangar 9 yellow paint? If so, what is the magic chant I need to utter?

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I have had good luck with the Ultracote paints. I find my best results with yellow come when I have a base coat of silver. After I prime, I shoot a thin coat of silver, then shoot the yellow. I have found that white is good, but the silver (at least for me ) provides a more accurate color.

The other thing you need to realize is that the paint as well as the covering is done in batches. Occasionaly one (or both ) of the batches are off just a "hair" when the color is mixed.

If I absolutely must have an EXACT match I get a quart of latex color matched, then after it has dried (cured ) for about 10 days clear coat it.

dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

Campy, cool. I hadn't thought of that. It just so happens I have some silver, so I will try a test piece.

Agree, the UltraCote is pretty good paint, with good coverage, just the issue with matching. I heard the UltraCote clear is not so good(no details) so was halfway thinking of shooting some AeroGloss clear dope. Again, I would test this before experimenting on the real deal.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I have done some tests on clear coats with the following results:

Waterbase polyurethane (available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss):

Let dry for a minimum of 7 days before exposing to glow fuel. This clear coat is fuel RESISTANT. Do not let residue remain on the clear coat over 4 hours. At about 4 hours the poly begins to soften. Does not yellow with age.


Dupli-Color Acrylic Clear (available in auto supply stores, only available in gloss):

Fuel proof. Raw fuel left on it for 8 hours had no effect. No or extremely minimal yellowing.


Krylon Satin and Gloss Acrylic clear:

Fuel proof. Passed the 8 hour raw fuel test with flying colors. I am still checking the "non-yellowing" part to determine if it is truth or hype. On a personal note, this looks like the best bet so far. It is inexpensive and available just about anywhere.

The key with these is that they are ACRYLIC enamels (MOST acrylic paints are fuel proof). I prefer the enamels over the lacquers, that way I don't have to worry about compatibility - you can put enamel over lacquer, but not the other way.