Airbrushing super coverite
07-15-2003, 11:25 AM
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Airbrushing super coverite
OK, Got my compressor yesterday and tried airbrushing. I am using artist's acrylic paint in tubes. At first, I had it way to thick and it sputtered a lot but gradually thinned it down. It seemed to go from too thick to too thin really fast. Should it be extremely sensetive to viscosity? I couldn't get it exactly right.
Also, Do I need to prepare super coverite prior to painting or just paint right on it?
Is there a really good airbrush tutorial on line somewhere?
Jeff
Also, Do I need to prepare super coverite prior to painting or just paint right on it?
Is there a really good airbrush tutorial on line somewhere?
Jeff
07-16-2003, 03:33 PM
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Airbrushing super coverite
JWC,
I'm a professional artist and designer and have been shooting those artist's acrylics through airbrushes for over 20 years (on artist's canvas). Yes, they are very sensitive to viscosity and air volume. It's a delicate balance between the two. You'll want to thin the paint with water to a "skim milk" consistency. It's almost like shooting watercolors, and won't really "cover" with one coat in most cases.
Make sure you're "layering" the paint down in many light coats, it dries almost as quick as you lay it down, so just have a little patience and give the water a chance to evaporate out of the coat. You should be shooting at about 25 to 35 psi, depending on your airbrush. Also, it makes a HUGE difference if you have a double-action airbrush, they allow you to vary the amount of air and air pattern in realtime just like the amount of paint.
Another big issue is keeping the tip clean. I have to take mine apart and clean the tip with airbrush cleaner VERY often to keep the paint flowing well and reduce "sputtering".
As for shooting it directly onto the Coverite, that's a good question. I'm sure it will shoot fine on the Coverite, but there's another consideration. I'm shooting on Koverall now for my warbird project, painting it first with a larger gun and latex paints, then using an airbrush afterwards, and finally sealing it all with Nelson Hobbies clear coat.
The advantage is that I fill all the grain of the fabric first with a few coats of Waterbased Poly, primer and latex, then when I shoot the airbrush paint, I have a very smooth surface to paint on. Believe me, the airbrush will exaggerate every little bump in the grain of the fabric if you don't fill it first. Also, I'm not sure I'd trust the airbrushed acrylics without sealing them with a clear coat afterwards, I doubt they're fuelproof and they scratch and mar very easily.
Hope this helps,
Neo
I'm a professional artist and designer and have been shooting those artist's acrylics through airbrushes for over 20 years (on artist's canvas). Yes, they are very sensitive to viscosity and air volume. It's a delicate balance between the two. You'll want to thin the paint with water to a "skim milk" consistency. It's almost like shooting watercolors, and won't really "cover" with one coat in most cases.
Make sure you're "layering" the paint down in many light coats, it dries almost as quick as you lay it down, so just have a little patience and give the water a chance to evaporate out of the coat. You should be shooting at about 25 to 35 psi, depending on your airbrush. Also, it makes a HUGE difference if you have a double-action airbrush, they allow you to vary the amount of air and air pattern in realtime just like the amount of paint.
Another big issue is keeping the tip clean. I have to take mine apart and clean the tip with airbrush cleaner VERY often to keep the paint flowing well and reduce "sputtering".
As for shooting it directly onto the Coverite, that's a good question. I'm sure it will shoot fine on the Coverite, but there's another consideration. I'm shooting on Koverall now for my warbird project, painting it first with a larger gun and latex paints, then using an airbrush afterwards, and finally sealing it all with Nelson Hobbies clear coat.
The advantage is that I fill all the grain of the fabric first with a few coats of Waterbased Poly, primer and latex, then when I shoot the airbrush paint, I have a very smooth surface to paint on. Believe me, the airbrush will exaggerate every little bump in the grain of the fabric if you don't fill it first. Also, I'm not sure I'd trust the airbrushed acrylics without sealing them with a clear coat afterwards, I doubt they're fuelproof and they scratch and mar very easily.
Hope this helps,
Neo
07-17-2003, 08:08 PM
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painting super coverite
Hi,
You might check this link out
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp
It's a "how to article" by Roy Vaillancourt. He uses exterior latex paint exclusively on his award winning scale warbirds. I believe he might have a couple other latex painting articles on MAN, but I didn't find them.
I have recently finished up a DynaFlite Flybaby. I used Super Coverite to cover all areas. I painted it with white exterior latex paint. I shot the paint through an automotive detail gun. I probably put on 4 or 5 coats to get good coverage. The paint goes on pretty thin. I dried the latex paint inbetween coats with my heat gun. I am very pleased with the finish. I applied admiral blue exterior latex over the white for a scallop scheme. I applied it through my Iwata Revolution airbrush. I had my regulators set at 20-25lbs on both air compressors. I am finishing up an 85" Corsair right now. I glassed all the sheeting on it and applied a Rustoleum gray primer to it. I sanded almost all the primer off of it and then sprayed 4 or 5 coats of the admiral blue exterior latex. I'm not completely finished with it, but so far it's got a real nice smooth finish. I will shoot white over the blue when it's time. I really like using the latex to paint with. I can paint right in my basement shop.
Jon
You might check this link out
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp
It's a "how to article" by Roy Vaillancourt. He uses exterior latex paint exclusively on his award winning scale warbirds. I believe he might have a couple other latex painting articles on MAN, but I didn't find them.
I have recently finished up a DynaFlite Flybaby. I used Super Coverite to cover all areas. I painted it with white exterior latex paint. I shot the paint through an automotive detail gun. I probably put on 4 or 5 coats to get good coverage. The paint goes on pretty thin. I dried the latex paint inbetween coats with my heat gun. I am very pleased with the finish. I applied admiral blue exterior latex over the white for a scallop scheme. I applied it through my Iwata Revolution airbrush. I had my regulators set at 20-25lbs on both air compressors. I am finishing up an 85" Corsair right now. I glassed all the sheeting on it and applied a Rustoleum gray primer to it. I sanded almost all the primer off of it and then sprayed 4 or 5 coats of the admiral blue exterior latex. I'm not completely finished with it, but so far it's got a real nice smooth finish. I will shoot white over the blue when it's time. I really like using the latex to paint with. I can paint right in my basement shop.
Jon
07-17-2003, 09:56 PM
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Airbrushing super coverite
_jon_,
Yeah I read that article a number of times before my first attempt with Latex. Check out this article I wrote after doing extensive tests with waterbased products to finish a warbird with (waterbased poly-u for glassing, wb-latex for painting, and wb-clearcoats).
Neo
Yeah I read that article a number of times before my first attempt with Latex. Check out this article I wrote after doing extensive tests with waterbased products to finish a warbird with (waterbased poly-u for glassing, wb-latex for painting, and wb-clearcoats).
Neo
07-21-2003, 04:44 PM
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Airbrushing super coverite
http://www.renderwurx.com/rc/glasstest/index.htm
Excellent test article you wrote NEO. I think I'll take your advise and put a clearcoat on, like Nelsons. I like the latex finish a lot, but it does seem a lil' prone to hangar rash (scratches and marrs).
Thanks,
Jon
Excellent test article you wrote NEO. I think I'll take your advise and put a clearcoat on, like Nelsons. I like the latex finish a lot, but it does seem a lil' prone to hangar rash (scratches and marrs).
Thanks,
Jon
07-21-2003, 07:06 PM
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Airbrushing super coverite
Jon,
Yeah, it makes the finish a little harder, but the main reason I went with it was for better gas-proofing.
Just make sure you give your latex a few days curing time (minimum) before shooting the clear on it... 2-3 weeks is better (recommended time by most latex manufacturers). Give your clear a few days too before getting any fuel on it, and add the Nelson cross-linker to your clear if you're using glow fuel.
Neo
Yeah, it makes the finish a little harder, but the main reason I went with it was for better gas-proofing.
Just make sure you give your latex a few days curing time (minimum) before shooting the clear on it... 2-3 weeks is better (recommended time by most latex manufacturers). Give your clear a few days too before getting any fuel on it, and add the Nelson cross-linker to your clear if you're using glow fuel.
Neo
07-23-2003, 04:21 AM
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Airbrushing super coverite
Hi
there is a product you spray on before the paint its called primex its made by the same people that make the coverite. Really I think it is just dope not butirate but the other cant remember the name ( since stroke have this problem) . but the stuff makes a bond between the coverite and your paint. Good luck
there is a product you spray on before the paint its called primex its made by the same people that make the coverite. Really I think it is just dope not butirate but the other cant remember the name ( since stroke have this problem) . but the stuff makes a bond between the coverite and your paint. Good luck
