SleepyPete

What’s the cleanest looking, most secure method to attach a plastic canopy to a plane covered in a monokote finish? I’ve used a some glue in the past (probably 25 or so years ago – can’t remember the name) but as I recall I was never quite satisfied with the results.

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

try rc56 glue

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yup, RC 56 - Only now it's called RC 560

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXCX70&P=ML

SleepyPete

That's it.. thanks. Triggered some grey matter...

Now for the application. Does one simply place the canopy on the plane and lay a bead of glue around the parameter? If so, what's the best method of smoothing out the glue without spreading it out too much?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I usually tape the canopy in place and draw a line around it with a sharpie pen.

Then, just inside the line, poke a few bazillion holes in the covering with a pin.

Now remove the line with alcohol.

Finally, add a bead of glue to the bottom of the canopy and hold in place with tape - Immediately wipe off all excess glue with a wet paper towel and let sit overnight

carrellh

We added 1/8" pin stripe tape to the edge to hide as much of the glue line as possible.

gene6029

I agree with the R/C-50 canopy glue. I usually trace my canopy onto the monokote, then take 2 X-acto blades with a thin spacer between them, and run that over your trace mark. Then pick off the piece of Monokote & you have an exposed piece of wood ready for the canopy glue. As stated above i follow this up after the glue dries with a thin piece of trim tape around the base of the canopy for a real nice finish.....Gene

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yea, but use 1/4" tape. I think Carrell meant to say 1/4", not 1/8"

DustBen

My Feedback: (3)

I sort of do a combination of a lot of the processes here.

I trace the canopy position as stated above using an alcohol soluable marker pen. I also poke the holes except I poke a kabillion holes.

I use 2 part epoxy instead of the RC-560 (RC-56).Perhaps the RC 560 methodworks best for most people, but for me, I like that the epoxy will fill a small gap. The Rc 560 shrinks so much asit dries that a gap mightopen in time after it completely cures. Furthermore, the canopy is one of thelast things we usually doto the plane, and soonthereafter, we fly it... and unhardened RC-560 is NOT fuel proof.

Lastly, before I mount the canopy, I mask off the edges and spray paint a borderon it. The painted borderhides the glue job... andwe all know thinner pinstripe tape always comes loose in time.

Once the canopy is in place, clean up the epoxy with isopropyl alcohol.

By the way, Carl Goldberg supplied a two part, white epoxy that stayed semi-fleible and I tried to use that whenever possible. Does anyone know the status of this product, or a replacement for it?

8178

My Feedback: (17)

This has worked well for me http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3802466

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Gee whiz, some of you guys make it too complicated.

I just did this canopy yesterday. No holes poked, no Sharpie lines, etc. Just run a small bead of RC-56 on the canopy, place it on the fuselage, press down, wipe away excess, and then tape and let sit overnight.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Gluing the canopy to the covering means that if the covering comes loose, the canopy will go with it. By poking holes you're gluing it to the wood.

Drawing the line is to let you know where to poke the holes

morganflyboy

My Feedback: (14)

I used the rc56 before also, it did not work that well. Just bought some new stuff at the Toledo Rc Show last year, super stuff. Sets up quick and drys super clear. I will post the name of it tonight, I am at work right now.

Morgan

gene6029

8178, I went back to your thread you referenced to & i might add that you do BEAUTIFULL work!!....Gene

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the nice comment Gene! I’ve enjoyed the hobby for decades and building is all part of the fun experience for me.

50+AirYears

Some years ago, I had the opportunity to try a Urethane Epoxy to attach a couple canopies and windshields to Monokote covered models. My application was a bit messy, and the Epoxy was a pale yellowish, but the glue kept the plastic bonded better to the covering than anything I've used before or since. In fact, when I was trying to replace a cracked windhield on a SAM Spook 72, I actually pulled the covering off the Balsarited fuse frame. I had the same result with a canopy on another model. The covering adhesive let go before the Urethane. About the only problem I remember, other than the coloring, is that the Epoxy I was using took about 40 minutes to cure.