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Prepping for painting - 2/1/2012 5:56 PM   
pilotx


 

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Status: offline 		OK I have a Fiberglassed and primed warbird i have primed wet sanded to 400 grit. my question is what are the steps taken before color is painted should i wipe surface with tack rag and then paint or should i do a solvent wipe if so what is used for this final wipe down before painting. just to back up alittle here the plane is primed with automotive primer and as said wet sanded whats next?


thanks in advance for the help



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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/1/2012 6:13 PM   
speedracerntrixie


 

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Status: offline 		Have you applied a guide coat? This is really a mist of color that I apply before final sanding. It helps show flaws that normally would be missed if just sanding the primer. After all sanding is done, git rid of as much dust as you can then clean with a lint free rag and a little alcohol. Lightly tack rag just prior to spraying.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/1/2012 9:39 PM   
Ed Smith


 

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Status: offline 		I have used Automotive paint exclusively for many years. I always stayed with same brand for reducer, primer and paint. For cleaning I used a "Pre Paint Cleaner" recommended by the paint dealer. after cleaning I used a "Tac" rag to remove any dust particles.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/1/2012 10:58 PM   
pilotx


 

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Status: offline 		speedracerntrixie: Yes all guide coat and fill is completed, the surface is complete. Ready for paint and the plane has set for a few months in a spare room in house while the shop was remodeled with that complete its time to work on planes again this F4U-1 need completed, so I have done all the final wet sanding to 400 Grit and as i said I am just trying to cover all my bases before paint.

Ed Smith: I think this is what I have seen in auto painting, just didn't know if it applied to this or if something else was used.

thanks



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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 2:12 AM  1 votes
acdii


 

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Status: offline 		Are you going to use a sealer primer before shooting the color?  Usually a sealer is laid down as the first step to putting the finish coats on. It helps bond the color to the primer and smooths out any sanding marks.


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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 2:32 AM   
pilotx


 

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Status: offline 		acdii: i believe i have done this, here's what i have done built up balsa fiberglassed and filled the weave, then primed for guide coat then filled any low spots with good lightweight filler where needed not much was added at all then sanded to 300 grit at this point i wiped whole surface with alcohol, then panel lines and rivets were layed down chart tape for lines and glue dots for rivets and spot-welds. then primed again to seal tape and rivets. at this point i sanded back again with 400 grit just to reveal the panel line tape and to knock off the tops of the rivets and wiped clean with water and towels. then as i said i put it away for a few months while working on the shop drywall and paint and new cabinets and benches now i am ready to start back on this plane. so i think i have been through the sealer stage just wanting as i said cover all my bases before laying down the final paint i would hate paint and then discover a problem with the prep. I hope this helps.



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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 12:18 PM   
TomCrump



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Status: offline 		Sometimes, after sitting for a period of time, I've noticed that primer can develop a patina. I usually give the surface a light sanding (dry) with 300-4000 grit, clean the surface with solvent, and then sparay the color coats.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 3:39 PM   
jester_s1


 

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Status: offline 		You probably know this, but wearing latex gloves while doing the final cleanup will keep any oils from your hands from contaminating the surface and causing a delamination.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 3:49 PM   
Ed Smith


 

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Status: offline 		I would be carefull of using solvents as a Pre Paint cleaner. there is a danger of the primer being attacked. Use the proper product for cleaning. It is not a solvent.

Ed s

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 7:26 PM   
pdm52956


 

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Status: offline 		Using solvents that are part of the paint system to wipe down with is fine. Do not use a "wet" rag, just a damp one. Best to wipe dry too as letting the solvent dry on the surface won't remove contaminants. All that does is move them around.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 7:46 PM   
Ed Smith


 

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Use the proper product!

Ed s



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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 9:45 PM   
Old Fart


 

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/2/2012 11:03 PM   
pilotx


 

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Status: offline 		Ok Ed i sorry if i am sounding like i keep asking. I am using DURA BUILD Acrylic Primer Surfacer along with Model master Enamel.
so what is the correct product. again sorry for not getting it.



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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/3/2012 12:14 AM   
pdm52956


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Ed Smith

For the very last time.

Use the proper product!

Ed s



Well there Ed, if you're refering to what I may have suggested, you obviously must know something I don't. Then again, not sure what it might be as I've been painting full scale for about 34 years now.



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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/3/2012 11:19 AM   
TomCrump



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Status: offline 		Ya, Ed. What do you know, that we don't ? I was in paint manufacturing for over 30 years.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/3/2012 3:39 PM   
Ed Smith


 

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Status: offline 		I have no idea what you all do not know.

I purchase all of my Automotive paint, primer, hardener, reducer, clearcoat, matting agent and cleaner from the same source. I have never experienced compatibility problems it has always worked. Those of you in the painting business know what you can away with. I do not know that.

Hence my advise to others in the same situation as me.

Ed S

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/3/2012 4:18 PM   
TomCrump



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Status: offline 		We are telling them what will work. You are disagreeing with us.

There is nothing wrong with using products from the same manufacturer, but many times there are less expensive alternatives.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/3/2012 5:00 PM   
Ed Smith


 

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quote:

There is nothing wrong with using products from the same manufacturer, but many times there are less expensive alternatives


Very true. But if cost is the only criteria, then I am not prepared to take a chance.

Ed s

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/3/2012 5:04 PM   
pdm52956


 

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Status: offline 		It's all good Ed. Pre paint cleaners are really nothing more than a kind of solvent regardless of what the manufacturer calls it. If it wasn't, there are contaminants you wouldn't get off the surface. Anywho, like I said a lightly damp solvent rag will work and shouldn't attack the primer as long as it is automotive type product and especially since the primer has sat as long as the OP says.

By the way, good looking airplanes you have there!

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/4/2012 1:44 AM   
RCdude13


 

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Status: offline 		I have a quick question about filling the weave in fiberglass. I am considering adding some microballons to the second coat of finishing epoxy resin. My goal is to add less of the epoxy and fill more of the weave with the light microballons. I thought I would squeegee most of the mix off to avoid much sanding. What does everyone think?

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/4/2012 2:08 PM   
jaka


 

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Status: offline 		Hi!
I have done that om many pylon racers in the past!
Brown coloured micro balloons are best for this as you see where you have sanded more easily than using white ones.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/5/2012 1:04 AM   
Old Fart


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: pdm52956

It's all good Ed. Pre paint cleaners are really nothing more than a kind of solvent regardless of what the manufacturer calls it. If it wasn't, there are contaminants you wouldn't get off the surface. Anywho, like I said a lightly damp solvent rag will work and shouldn't attack the primer as long as it is automotive type product and especially since the primer has sat as long as the OP says.

By the way, good looking airplanes you have there!

You may want to wash the old primer surface with warm water and detergent first,solvents don't remove the tiny dots of insect poo.Then continue as suggested above.Ed makes a good point for the less experienced spraypainters.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/5/2012 4:15 AM  1 votes
pkoury


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: RCdude13

I have a quick question about filling the weave in fiberglass. I am considering adding some microballons to the second coat of finishing epoxy resin. My goal is to add less of the epoxy and fill more of the weave with the light microballons. I thought I would squeegee most of the mix off to avoid much sanding. What does everyone think?


I never use a second coat of resin- with or without fillers. Once the resin attaching the cloth to the surface has cured I use a high build primer to fill the weave.

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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/6/2012 3:14 PM   
pacoflyer


 

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Status: offline 		Gentlemen,
Can you recommend a high build sandable primer that I could brush on. I checked in with my local auto paint store but most of this stuff is real expensive.
I'm just looking for a good substitute for the automotive rattle can primers.

Thanks,
paul



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RE: Prepping for painting - 2/6/2012 4:27 PM   
speedracerntrixie


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: pacoflyer

Gentlemen,
Can you recommend a high build sandable primer that I could brush on. I checked in with my local auto paint store but most of this stuff is real expensive.
I'm just looking for a good substitute for the automotive rattle can primers.

Thanks,
paul





You could get some Klass Kote and brush that on. It's much more work that way though. You can get spreay guns for 25-30.00 nowadays.

As far as filling the weave, after initial sanding of the glass, I saturate a paper towel with resin and just wipe on a thin coat. This fills the weave nicely and is less weight then using primer. Primer will also shrink and you could end up seeing the weave in the finished paint job if you sand the primer too soon.

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