texx

COOL

The Jackalope

I chopped the mounting posts on mine and shaved some of the plastic on the chassis, and got the body as low as I could without cutting out the floor. I wanted to keep the seats in place. it really only dropped about 3/4 inch.

I bought another jeep for spare parts, so I have a spare body, in Really rough shape. I hope to chop it, kinda like yellow crawler, and build an exo-frame around it.
See which one like more .......or just change em with my mood.

The Jackalope

DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Second set of stock electronics fried! Same thing as last time. Lost forward on the rear axle! Still goes in reverse, and the front axle is running fine.

WHAT THE HECK AM I DOIN WRONG?

These were what I believed to be two 280 sized motors. They came from a Tyco mutator running on 9.6v. One motor for the left side, and one for the right. Just like a tank. I ran these for about a week before this.

I'm a disgruntled little bunny. Gonna go play with my maisto and have a pout.

Spiike

and the old stock motors run okay?

The Jackalope

It's the circuit board. I tested the motors on other circuits, and tried the stock motors as well.
No VISIBLE damage on the board, but that doesn't tell me anything.
This thing ran great for a week, aside from the slight run-on, which was fixed when I cleaned up my wiring.

Spiike

did you solder anything to the board or do any repairs, maybe there is a wire that is touching something on the circuit board, or solder that is touching other solder. the other circuit board you got for free, you said it didn't work, what is wrong with that one? maybe its fixable that you can fix it and use it?

Spiike

http://cgi.ebay.ca/New-bright-jeep-r...3#ht_500wt_901

cobra69

Double check your wiring,...Sounds like there my be a short somewhere ,that is causing the FETS to burn out.

The Jackalope

The original board was definitly my fault. Hooked up a losi 280 to it. = lost forward on that axle, in 30secs. Had the board tested, and found three components cooked. Very tricky to unsolder and resolder those parts, due to size.

The second board came from a used jeep I bought with a busted body. it was an older model and used different connectors on the motor wires, but it worked just fine.

I never took the cover off the secondboard before this issue came up. I connected the wires to theexisting leads on my Motors (tyco) with crimp connectors. This worked, except for the bit of feedback noise. ran it for a week. Maybe there was some arcing in the connectors?

I have since cut the connectors out, and soldered the wires from the board directly to the motors, capacitors intact (1 per motor).
I had full use, then lost forward (rear axle) it came back intermittantly, and then lost it alltogether.

I haven't found any possibilities for shorting on the wires or the board.

The Jackalope

2 sets of electronics, fried on the rear axle.
..............................................2 sets of electronics, with one working axle.............................
.............2 axles needed................
..............................................2 sets of electronics, on the jeep. like a dual esc setup

Crazy idea. I like it. I'll post results.

Spiike

interesting, i would like to see pictures of your build. take lots of pictures of stuff you do to get it working, soldering wires etc.. I hope it works out for ya, I would be quite frustrated myself if I was in your shoes

The Jackalope

Just Finished installing the second board. did a quick test run. This monstrosity actually flippin works! haha.

This thing is running on 2 seperate recievers. its rediculous. A last ditch effort before stuff'n it with hobby grade (priced that out today too)

figured this was a good time to install a second battery too. One per board. BUT, then I ran a jumper from one board to the other, now they share the same power supply. I can run the whole truck on 1 battery or 2.

Hopefully I can take it out tomorrowand get some video..........before I blow up another board. hehehe
More pics tomorrow. it's 4am. Peace out.

Spiike

are you able to run the truck forward and reverse without switching frequencies to control the other motor?

The Jackalope

Both boards are 49.86MHz. It acts like it's only on one board. I'm expecting some glitching, but we'll see.

Spiike

I'm curious to know whether there is tons of conflict, i know running my NB truck beside another NB truck even on different frequency settings, we still conflict when our trucks are close to eachother, so i'm expecting a lot of feedback from the boards conflicting with the other receiver so close together but i might be wrong!

The Jackalope

Heres the details on the second stock board install. This is not a reccamendedmod, I just had 2 boards with a shot axle.

I set the second battery, a flat pack 1000mah, inside the chassis just in front of the stock board. slides in perfectly. A couple hits with the glue gun to keep it in place. the tamiya connector can be pulled out through the driver side front fender for charging and connecting to the truck.this battery stays in place andI charge it in the truck

I removed the 2nd elec board from it's newbright battery tray. I used the mounting posts from the tray, put them on the top side of the board, then glued these posts to the underside of the hood on the body. I left the connecting wires long enough that I could remove the body and sit it beside the jeep, for ease of working on it. The front motor and the steering servo are connected to the main board in it's stock location. The rear motor is connected to the (front) terminal on the second board under the hood. This also leaves the option for a future 4wheel stear.

I could haveused the stock tamiya battery terminal on the 2nd board, cuz it's right on top of the battery, but I oppted to use a corded connector for ease of disconnecting/reconnecting.

Like I said above, there is a jumper between the battery terminals connecting the 2 boards. both run on BOTH batteries.

Note the location of the on/off switch. Easily accessible under the passenger side fender.

Spiike

hows it run!?!?

you said its not a recommended mod, why?

texx

The Jackalope

You are resourceful and clever. Good work.

The Jackalope

Runs just like normal. Actually no glitching at all, much to my surprise. However, the CLOD STALL was maybe even a little worse.
I don't, however, reccamend the mod, if it's not necessary.You really don't gain anything from it if your stock board still works (mine didn't)

I think the boards just don't like the motors I'm using. They are stronger and faster, but in hindsight, that 4th gear mod is probably the better direction to take.

Spiike

I'm using the 280 motors from jameco i got from a guy on another forum and they work great! check my newest video in my build forum

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10299391/tm.htm

The Jackalope

So, I've got a few other vehicles running on 9.6vbut in 2 wheel drive with bigger motors. new bright and radio shack stuff. I wonder if any of the electronics could run the 2 smaller motors wired in parralel, or even in series, to do the 4 wheel drive.

I just gotta decide what vehicle to sacrifice to test this, given the risk of frying the electrics. I don't have anything with proportional steering though.

kasteer

Where did you source the Jameco 280 motors? And, Iassume they run on the stock electronics without frying them?

Liger of Awesome

Where did you get the truck in general?